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kljang

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  1. Hi Allan, I didn’t finish building the launch because as you say, didn’t look quite right and left it off. The thing about Bounty kits in general as they include generic boat parts, or the wrong boats, or boats that were never carried. The book reproduces the NMM draughts of a standard launch such as that ordered for Bounty so the modeller can modify the kit parts to a more authentic representation. In general, the biggest issue I had with the DeAgostini model is that there are no plans so you must build it blind - we are a bunch of modellers that work from plans, so building it like a plastic kit is a bit disconcerting. However, after building it I must say it went together well with little problem and looks great. I followed the instructions until the end when I decided to plank it differently to show off more of the frames. If you follow the instructions for example, virtually the entire deck id planked covering up all the intricate beam work. Same with the hull. Planking covers up so much of the frames I left off a lot. I added paint work to bring in some colour. Overall, the kit is a very easy way of building a model in frame. I am not sure of the wood species, mine was a medium hard flecked wood. It had a nice warm colour too it. Warm regards, kerry
  2. Thanks Allan, The BOUNTY book was a lot of interesting work because virtually all kits are based on the movie replicas, so a lot of work went into sorting what her colour scheme actually was. Also, John McKay worked out as best he could the actual mast and yard sizes. Bounty was converted from Bethia and her existing rig was altered by the Navy Yard and then by Bligh. It’s all in a large table in the book. Back to the DeAgostini kit, as I note in the book, the frame construction follows the usual practice of the day, but the kit includes only half of them so you can see the interior. John McKay’s Bounty book and plans were used as an inspiration but the kit differs from them in some important ways - actually most kits extant differ from his drawings. But, there are no contemporary illustrations of the ship given her short life so any kit and drawings must be reconstructed from her draughts (which exist) and written log entries. Writing this book was a challenge as the mutiny story is so well known and bringing the reader back to the actual ship herself was an interesting task. I really did not want to retell the story of the mutiny but you have to because it is central to this ship. ‘Fingers crossed’ I got the balance right! warm regards, Kerry
  3. I have purchased and built the kit. The model is featured in my new book ShipCraft 30: Bounty to be released in the UK on March 30, a little later in the US. The model was fun and certainly is impressive, but there are some issues that are easily corrected. It is the only Bounty model in frame. I purchased all the instalments at once, and for me made building easier as I could say, make all the guns at once. Cheers, Kerry Jang
  4. Excellent work! I love the true scale appearance you are achieving. Cheers, Kerry
  5. Hello Jake, I am quite excited that the Victory book will be released in a few weeks. Victory is the first in this series on a sailing warship, and was an experiment to see if it works. I look forward to people’s thoughts on the book when it comes out. The colour profiles were drawn by John McKay (he’s done two books of drawings on the ship) and together we created a number of colour schemes illustrating her appearance at different times during her long career. It was quite a bit of fun compiling information and turning it into a drawings. I hope you find the book helpful, and you can always contact me with any questions from what you find in the book. I am now just finished a new volume for the series on HMAV Bounty, again with colour profiles by John McKay. I need a rest! Warm regards, Kerry
  6. I’ve written a new book entitled “ship Models from the Age of Sail: Building. And Enhancing Commercial Kits” that might be helpful to you. It was just published by Seaforth Publishing in the UK and Naval Institute Press in the USA. it’s more about kit building so describe planking and rigging, and name kit parts. For the names of actual ship timbers in detail, then Peter Godwin’s books are best. cheers, Kerry Jang
  7. Great review James! I just got an e-mail from Tom saying he has been up late at night doing the castings for the kit! The lessons learned on his Enterprize have really showed up in Le Coureur, but either kit will certainly allow many to build a framed model with a lot less stress and cost. I remember buying shop tools to mill down my own wood, and locating good stocks of hardwood was a task. Looking forward to a build log here soon! Cheers, Kerry
  8. Lovely job Kevin. You got tucked in straight away and making great progress. cheers, Kerry
  9. Hi USS Frolick, the kit has two types of square frames. Thick and thin. The thin ones are 1/4” thick when assembled, and station frames that are thicker at 3/8” assembled. The space between frames is 1/4”, but for the frames at the stern and bow (not cant frames) the space is reduced to 1/8”. Cheers, Kerry
  10. Hello USS Frolick, When built, the frames are 1/4” thick, made up of two slices of 1/8”. The frames are slightly simplified. What I mean is that each is constructed futtock by futtock, but the joins between futtock pieces are straight, and not scarphed as in true English framing practice. There is no reason to show scarphed joints between futtock parts as they will not be seen as each frame face where they would be seen is hidden by the frame ahead and aft. The joints between futtock that would be visible on the side all fall where they should and follow a sheer. Hope this helps, Kerry
  11. Hi Alex, Yes, the Polish company was Shipyard. I have their HMS Juno plans myself and are quite good. I would think they used the NMM draughts to develop their card kits but I can’t say for sure if they do. I know when Tom designs a kit he cross checks his work against other’s sources of information. He tells me he finds contradictions in all plans, lines that don’t match up, And a lot of fun areas that are unclear. When I met him last year he showed me on a Royal barge how lines, measurements and details from well known sources did not agree. His CAD renderings show up these inconsistencies quite well, then he goes and researches which version might be correct or tried to reconcile them. He says he finds errors all the time in published plan sets of a ship and spends a lot of time trying to sort out where the variances and correct them before he can create cutting files to guide a laser. It’s really a case of The GIGO Principle - Garbage In, Garbage Out so you just can’t copy a plan to make kit, the drawings must be checked, checked and corrected. I’m glad he’s good at it! Cheers, Kerry
  12. Hi Alex, You can contact Tom via the CAF Models website or with this email: 450449987@qq.com The kit was based on plans from the National Maritime Museum which provided the lines. All of the framing and what not was created by Tom using practices of model shipwrights of the time. A Polish card model company also created a kit of Enterprize and published plans of the ship. This was used as a reference for decoration etc. as they had done a lot of research to determine the style of frieze etc. Cheers, Kerry
  13. Hi ASAT, No, you didn’t miss it. I didn’t list any shipping costs as it depends on how it was shipped. Prior to the pandemic, my kit and other items I ordered from China came via China Post to Canada. Now, Chinese prodecers are using courier services such as DHL to avoid sitting in the post office (in my case Canada Post) until cleared by customs. The courier firms have their own brokerage which is faster but comes at a price. I suggest you email Tom and ask. The kits can be provided in parts so you can stretch out the costs. This is why each box is a self contained unit of parts, plans, etc. You can start with box 1, build away until you are ready for the next part. cheers, Kerry
  14. Hello Carlosgf, The difference is in how well the wood is matched for colour and grain by hand. The kit in my review was "B". The wood in my kit was of good quality and pretty consistent colour and grain. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kerry
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