Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About biltut

  • Birthday 02/20/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Roanoke, VA

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    NRG Member
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

515 profile views
  1. biltut

    PE Tool Suggestion

    I will second Bob's comments. The Dumont tweezers are beyond compare. You can keep them sharpened on a stone when necessary and every time I buy one of the cheaper versions I am always disappointed. They can be bought on ebay for fairly competitive prices. Bob Cleek also mentioned the Proportional Dividers with rack and pinion which are also available on ebay for very reasonable prices at times. I find myself reaching for these constantly to transfer dimensions for different plans which are not drawn to the same scale.
  2. Great Job!!!! Makes me ashamed of myself for buying one. May still go back and try to duplicate the beautiful machine you made.
  3. biltut

    CA glues

    I will reaffirm comments made by John Allen and Mark. I have been building model ships for over 40 years and used CA glue exclusively on rigging for the first 25 years or so. The I began to see articles written by some of the professional model makers warning about the long term affects of using CA. Brittleness, shiny look and breaking. Over the years, I have many of these knots on previously built models that need repair. The only time I use CA on rigging is to straighten the ends when having problems getting the line through holes and when mounting difficult to reach eyebolts in various locations. I use diluted Hide Glue or diluted white glue as mentioned above on all rigging.
  4. I have to agree with Cliff Ward. The Cameron Drill Press is wonderful. I, too, have had mine for over 40 years and it is a great accurate machine. Coupled with the little x-y table you can do just about anything. I like mine so much that I picked up another on E-Bay last year for my second home and workshop. Once again as Cliff said it is not cheap but it will last a lifetime. The manual 164 is the one that I have. Didn't check the current price but watch E-Bay as they show up every now and then. http://cameronmicrodrillpress.com/product/cameron-series-164/
  5. biltut

    Byrnes saw sled

    Ben, Many thanks for posting this....was not aware that it is available. Just ordered one!
  6. Danny, Thanks for the quick reply. They certainly are more handsome than the black ones that are accompany the DRO's now. From the photos of the lathe it sure looks like you have a nicely set up shop. Are there any other pictures on the Forum of other areas of your workspace. Since I got the DRO I am thinking about building a small stand with a drawer in it for my lathe. And then I will probably want to do the same thing with my Mill. This kinda stuff gets out of control for me and is the main cause of my models taking so long to finish. I will start out with ideas of something simple, then it progresses to hand cut dovetails and so on. From the looks of what I have seen of your shop, you suffer from some of the same issues.
  7. MIKE/DANNY: I got the DRO set up on my mill and liked it so much I bought another unit without the display for my lathe. Danny you have a really neat set up on yours. Did the encoders come with the red handwheels when you bought yours, or did you fashion them somehow later. I really hated to give up my Adjustable-Zero red handwheels but the DRO comes with some generic looking black wheels.
  8. This Sherline DRO is on sale this month at Sherline for anyone that is interested. Usual disclaimer, no connection but just purchased one.
  9. Cliff, Not trying to answer for Druxey but I usually split the bamboo down to a smaller size with a scalpel or xacto and then begin to pull through the drawplate.
  10. Fellow Modelmakers, I am bringing this subject back to life for two reasons. First of all to thank Druxey for his original post of introduction to Mihail Kirsanov and his fine chisels as well as Vossiwulf for the pictures and review that he posted. Secondly, to let everyone know that these are available again for anyone interested. After reading the original posts, I contacted Michael and attempted to order a set of these only to find that he was out of town and would not be producing them until October of this year. By some stroke of luck, my feeble mind recalled this information and I contacted him in October and ordered a set. As previously noted by others, the order from Russia was painless, paid with PayPal and received the chisels within 16-20 days of shipping. I do not want to bore you folks with a reiteration of the past posts but these chisels are beautiful and far superior to anything I have seen offered anywhere else. I have seen pictures of his model work and he is also a fine modelmaker as you would expect. As mentioned before, there will be a learning curve on sharpening but Michael provides instructions for this by e-mail. Druxey has previously offered to provide his contact info if interested and I will do the same by PM. I would also remind you as stated in the previous e-mails that Mihail does not speak English so you will have to use some form of translation software. I found Google to be very easy to use.
  11. biltut


    Derek, Take a look at the Articles Database section of this forum, under Materials and Tools. Phil Krol's Ropewalk is listed here. Very well written with a great deal of details. I built one of these years ago and it works beautifully. I used an old belt driven dental motor for power. These can be found on E-Bay at a reasonable price and most of them have the option to reverse the motor. If this interests you and I can be of any further help let me know.
  12. Bill, Always heard to stay away from tea, even diluted, will deteriorate over time. Mark mentioned this earlier in this thread.
  13. Eddie, This is an age old problem with me too. When I started building models, I used the rigging supplied with kits, black and a manila color. As my skills or maybe obsessions progressed i began to make my own rigging and found it necessary to color it. At first, I followed the advice of many and stained the standing rigging with Minwax Jacobean and the running rigging with a mix of Golden Oak and Special Walnut adding and wiping until I got the desired color. I later ran into an article written by Erik Ronnberg who recommended Liquid Shoe Polish instead of the oil based stains, I believe stating that the oil based stains would eventually deteriorate. So I then switched over to a mix of brown shoe polish and black until I achieved the desired effect. This seemed to work nicely. Then along comes a new article my Erik, who I respect greatly, that is stating problems with fading on the shoe polish and recommends an oil based paint or dye mixed with turpentine and further dissolving bees wax in this mixture saving the independent processes. I tried this but was having trouble with the colors so I began using a water based dye stain and independently dissolved bees wax in turpentine and carefully pull the rigging through a piece of cotton dipped in the mixture. This seems to work nicely for me. Sorry I hope this helps some, I still use the shoe polish on the standing rigging because I need to match what was already completed on this model some time ago when I was struggling through on these trials. I guess I am so fearful of problems occurring with some of these processes because of my early use of CA glue on rigging and the horrid deterioration that it caused over a period of about 20 years or so. Good Luck! I hope I have not rambled too much and further confused the matter.
  14. biltut

    Hammond Trim-O-Saw

    Bob, I have read reviews on this saw in the past and it is certainly a great saw for the modelmaker. Would jump all over this if it was in my area. Good price too. I approached many of the local printers looking for one lurking in their basement and was unsuccessful in my search. Hope a modelmaker can catch up with this one.
  15. Jim, I was also interested in a set of these and sent Mikhail an e-mail last week. He responded that he would not be at home until October but would get back with me then. Sounds like you and I are a little late with our requests. I will either let you know then or send you his e-mail if you have not already received it. Just let me know.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research