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About biltut

  • Birthday 02/20/1947

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    Roanoke, VA

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  1. Cliff, Not trying to answer for Druxey but I usually split the bamboo down to a smaller size with a scalpel or xacto and then begin to pull through the drawplate.
  2. Fellow Modelmakers, I am bringing this subject back to life for two reasons. First of all to thank Druxey for his original post of introduction to Mihail Kirsanov and his fine chisels as well as Vossiwulf for the pictures and review that he posted. Secondly, to let everyone know that these are available again for anyone interested. After reading the original posts, I contacted Michael and attempted to order a set of these only to find that he was out of town and would not be producing them until October of this year. By some stroke of luck, my feeble mind recalled this information and I contacted him in October and ordered a set. As previously noted by others, the order from Russia was painless, paid with PayPal and received the chisels within 16-20 days of shipping. I do not want to bore you folks with a reiteration of the past posts but these chisels are beautiful and far superior to anything I have seen offered anywhere else. I have seen pictures of his model work and he is also a fine modelmaker as you would expect. As mentioned before, there will be a learning curve on sharpening but Michael provides instructions for this by e-mail. Druxey has previously offered to provide his contact info if interested and I will do the same by PM. I would also remind you as stated in the previous e-mails that Mihail does not speak English so you will have to use some form of translation software. I found Google to be very easy to use.
  3. Ropewalk

    Derek, Take a look at the Articles Database section of this forum, under Materials and Tools. Phil Krol's Ropewalk is listed here. Very well written with a great deal of details. I built one of these years ago and it works beautifully. I used an old belt driven dental motor for power. These can be found on E-Bay at a reasonable price and most of them have the option to reverse the motor. If this interests you and I can be of any further help let me know.
  4. Bill, Always heard to stay away from tea, even diluted, will deteriorate over time. Mark mentioned this earlier in this thread.
  5. Eddie, This is an age old problem with me too. When I started building models, I used the rigging supplied with kits, black and a manila color. As my skills or maybe obsessions progressed i began to make my own rigging and found it necessary to color it. At first, I followed the advice of many and stained the standing rigging with Minwax Jacobean and the running rigging with a mix of Golden Oak and Special Walnut adding and wiping until I got the desired color. I later ran into an article written by Erik Ronnberg who recommended Liquid Shoe Polish instead of the oil based stains, I believe stating that the oil based stains would eventually deteriorate. So I then switched over to a mix of brown shoe polish and black until I achieved the desired effect. This seemed to work nicely. Then along comes a new article my Erik, who I respect greatly, that is stating problems with fading on the shoe polish and recommends an oil based paint or dye mixed with turpentine and further dissolving bees wax in this mixture saving the independent processes. I tried this but was having trouble with the colors so I began using a water based dye stain and independently dissolved bees wax in turpentine and carefully pull the rigging through a piece of cotton dipped in the mixture. This seems to work nicely for me. Sorry I hope this helps some, I still use the shoe polish on the standing rigging because I need to match what was already completed on this model some time ago when I was struggling through on these trials. I guess I am so fearful of problems occurring with some of these processes because of my early use of CA glue on rigging and the horrid deterioration that it caused over a period of about 20 years or so. Good Luck! I hope I have not rambled too much and further confused the matter.