biltut

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About biltut

  • Birthday February 20

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    Roanoke, VA

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  1. Beautiful work as usual, Michael. You never cease to amaze me. I agree with Mark, you need to come out of Retirement and start a tool company.
  2. Delta King, Welcome! I have been scratch building the Kate Cory for more years now than I would like to admit. I am presently in the running rigging so keep me in mind, if you have any problems I might be able to help you out. I assume this is a Model Shipways kit. The instructions are pretty good and Erik Ronnberg has done a set of plans and booklet that would be very helpful and is extremely detailed but I don't think it is still available unless it shows up used somewhere. Good Luck and let me know if I can help you.
  3. Have you tried attacking the wood from different angles to cut out the pieces. (I can't remember but these pieces may be preprinted) The thin basswood in these old Scientific kits was very difficult to work with. Vossiewulf and Banyan's advise is certainly good. You could also very easily pick up a piece of 1/16 inch aircraft plywood and cut that with a jeweler's saw. Might cut the frustration level some and you would have the plywood available for some of the other parts when come up. I believe I built that kit about 40 years ago. I think it had some kind of paper sails with it too. Would follow some of the thoughts on this forum on sails and use Silkspan or some of the other alternatives. It is a nice kit, just take your time and you will be proud of the results. Good Luck!
  4. Keith,

     

    You have done such a great job on your mods to your Brynes Saw that I am interested in your thoughts on a modification I would like to make.  I have the Brynes high fence and bought an extra to add a sacrificial wood higher fence to .  I am about to drill this out and tap it to accept the height extension but thinking further ahead I would like to add a slot or some other means to employ hold downs.  Maybe some form of "T" slot.  Have you given this any thought?  

     

    Thanks,

    Bill

    1. KeithAug

      KeithAug

      Dear Bill

       

      Once or twice over the last year I have wanted to mill a slot in the end of a longer piece of wood. Here a higher fence might have helped but I managed by clamping the plank to a square block of wood to keep the plank square to the table. Because I don't find much need for a higher fence I haven't given much thought to fence modifications.   However I would be interested to know how you get on as   its always good to see other good ideas.

       

      Keith

    2. biltut

      biltut

      Keith,

       

      Thanks for the quick reply, will let you know if I make any progress.

       

      Bill

  5. I also have the Preac Saw as well as the Jim Saw and find it very useful when needing two different width blades for the same project, for instance, sawing wood for block construction and adding the strop slot as well as the sheave slot. Much easier than changing blades frequently. I have a Saw Stop for the big stuff, wouldn't take anything for any of these saws and I am constantly thankful that I did not part with my Preac. It seems they very rarely show up on E-Bay.
  6. Mark,

     

    Just looked at the picture of your "Jim" saw in your reply to Thistle.  How did you attach the high piece of aluminum to your fence?  I purchased an extra fence to add a sacrificial wooden fence to give me more height as well as protection to my fence if I get to close.  I have always done this on my big Saw Stop to prevent fence damage but there are a lot of other means to handle this on a full size saw.  

     

    I thought about using screws and just tapping threads in the fence but I can't seem to get up my nerve to mess up a brand new fence and thought maybe you had figured another way to accomplish this.  Your thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks,

    1. mtaylor

      mtaylor

      I don't have a Jim saw but a MicroMark.  The aluminum is just clamped to the fence.   Some (Grant Dale) did do that with tapped holes and screws in the fence.  Works well.

    2. biltut

      biltut

      Thanks, will probably do that, I find that at my age now, I have to research and think everything through before getting the drill out.  It is detrimental and counter productive sometimes but I have made too many mistakes before.  Thanks for the reply.

  7. I was given some material years ago that was used for fishing lures/fly tying that was perfect. It had the appearance of a pipe cleaner but was a little thicker. Worked beautifully, I am just sorry I can't remember exactly what it was.
  8. I use a small belt drive dental machine motor on mine with an old Foredom Foot drive speed control. These things are great for this purpose as the motor has a reverse switch built into it. These are relatively cheap on E-Bay. When I built mine I used the plans developed by Phil Kroll which are available on the NRG site. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/materials_and_tools/ropewalk.pdf This was very simple to build and very effective, turning out beautiful rope. Good Luck!
  9. Beautiful work, this has always been a big problem for me to duplicate barrels. Looks like you have figured it out. I like the Guinness Beer reference as coincidentally I am having one right now.
  10. I also purchased one of these from Michael and was unsure as to whether I would put it in the shop or just leave this beautiful example of fine machine work on my coffee table in the living room. Seriously, this is one fine piece of work and very functional. I also own the GRS soldering station that Pat pictures above as well as the single arm version mentioned. All of these are very fine tools. Michael's just has an added touch of class that you don't find in the usual manufactured tools.
  11. I bought mine on E-Bay and like everything on E-Bay sometimes they go at a very reasonable price and other times way out of range. Once you get them you will not know how you lived without them. Get a good pair, rack and pinion, I bought a pair from MicroMark years ago but I do not think they are rack and pinion. In my opinion you would be better off with a good used pair from E-Bay.
  12. Julie, Thanks for sharing the video. I was not aware these are available. Use Shapton Glass ceramic for most of my sharpening but these really look like they will do the trick. I also have some old Arkansas stones that I bought years ago that are curved which may do the job. It appears the configuration of these would handle about any shape.
  13. Julie, I like these planes but I am a fanatic about sharpening. Are you real good at sharpening these? and are there any tricks?
  14. These Knew Concepts saws are pretty expensive but worth every penny. Once your blade is positioned correctly there is very little chance of it getting loose. Excellent videos on their site for instruction.
  15. The StewMac Router base is a pretty versatile item. I have a friend of mine that is a guitar maker and does a lot of beautiful inlay work using this. It is also adaptable to the Foredom, using their handpiece, which is threaded to fit the router guide. There are a lot of router guides available out there that are superior to these but much more costly. You just need to determine how much you will use it to justify the cost.