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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. You are truly an artist, Doris. Just noticed those elegant scarph joints in the wales. Also love the work on your beakhead bulkhead. Will there be doors eventually to allow passage?
  2. Doris had posted a video, long ago, of her sculpting the figurehead. It was her usual meticulous method of turning a blob of clay into a work of art by adding a bit of clay here and a bit there. I recall her spending several minutes fine tuning a leg and hoof that already looked perfect to me. No smoke and mirrors involved - just the same building up process she used for the smaller carvings.
  3. Lovely work, Marsalv. Assembling them off the model in the jig you've created certainly simplifies the process somewhat.
  4. dvm27

    America 1851 by Kevin Kenny

    Excellent work, Kevin. Now back to your Swan!
  5. Five years, Ed? It seems like time flies by, especially as you get older. I admire your precision with a hand file. My father-in-law was a machinist and told me one of the skills new workers had to manage was achieving perfectly flat surfaces using only a file and both hands. I find that even after years of practice I still chamfer one edge or the other doing this freehand.
  6. You know your're doing a great job when those carlings assume a sweet curve. Lovely work, Ben!
  7. This is a fabulous book with impeccible writing and gorgeous photographs. It looks like a coffee table book but is so much more. I have texted Grant expressing our appreciation for his work and I know he himself is very pleased with the production of this volume.
  8. One of the loveliest features of some of the Navy Board models and Dr. Longridge's Victory is the graceful catenary of the stays. I notice it developing in my only rigged model made 15 years ago. I suppose it's impossible to duplicate on a new model as real rope has weight, especially when wet, that just doesn't scale down to create a catenary. I have seen this replicated with rope spun around a wire core (Lloyd McCaffery) to very good effect. The photo with the fully loaded fairlead planks is fantastic, Ed!
  9. Extraordinary work, Mark! Those small filler frames are so perfect they almost look fake. No gaps after all these years? Just curious - were those moulding blanks cut to shape or steamed into shape?
  10. Mark - there is a nice video on making a form tool for the cascabel of a cannon on You Tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3-XFfc82ew In fact, all of his videos (including turning a cannon barrel) are mesmerizing.
  11. dvm27

    Crown Timberyard - two thumbs up

    I agree with Chuck that the best course would be to but a sheet of 1/4" thick x 3" wide boxwood sheet from Jason. If you don't have a small table saw he may even slice off the 1/4" x 3/8" keel slice you need from the sheet. If you are scratch building your brig you'll certainly have need of the rest of the sheet at some point.
  12. dvm27

    Crown Timberyard - two thumbs up

    I love working with boxwood Brian. It has little grain and maintains a crisp edge. I'm curious as to what part of your ship would require a baulk of wood larger than Jason can provide. Perhaps the main mast of a First Rate at 1:48 scale?
  13. This sets the bar for what ship model kits should look like!
  14. I was wondering about that Mark, as the guns looked to be sitting a bit low in the ports without the decking under them. As I have learned, much of your painstaking work will be hidden once you add the deck(s) above. But we'll always have those photos (which we never look at).
  15. Yes you are technically correct, Alan. What I have used are simulated bungs. I'm not sure I've seen a model deck correctly spiked, countersunk then bored to receive a bung. That level of detail would be quite remarkable. The point is that the trunnels I use are @ 1.75" in diameter, roughly the same diameter as a bung. So the end result looks the same except the bungs are end grain. To quote David Antscherl in The Fireship Comet "I did not treenail the deck, as in the original ships the plugs that covered nails and other fasteners were virtually invisible, as they were side-grained rather than end-grained." Bottom line is that they should be barely visible at 1:48 scale.

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