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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Looking great Ben. Your ports are lining up very fair. Are you still cutting the sill mortises prior to installing the frames?
  2. It's 1 1/2" on each side Joseph. 15" max deadwood thickness minus the 12" thickness above the steps equals 3" total difference or 1 1/2 inch per side.
  3. Wonderful work on that stern framing (and everything else)!
  4. Joseph, I feel compelled to answer this in the public forum as you have lodged your displeasure here. A fully framed Navy Board model of an eighteenth century ship is the most difficult task one could attempt in ship model building. I usually recommend those wishing to do this have at least one scratch built or Hahn style model under their belt. Our website clearly states that the plans need to be supplemented with those of the National maritime Museum and we strongly suggest you obtain at least the first two volumes of the Swan class books. It took me almost a decade to build my Swan class model under the guidance of David Antscherl and we are more than willing to help others do the same. But you have to at least make the effort of familiarizing yourself with contemporary building practices. Each "simple" question you pose in this forum are addressed by at least one or several pages in our books, complete with illustrations. There are all levels of ship modeling experience on this list and most people are willing to help in an area they are familiar with. In this respect, there are only a few MSW participants with the knowledge to answer your very specific enquiries. We don't mind helping but you need to make a serious commitment in order to build a Swan class model. I'm sorry that your current situation makes it difficult for you to acquire the basic reference materials necessary for a project such as this but I did try to warn you in several e-mails prior to your purchase that perhaps you were not yet ready to start. A lifetime of airplane or automobile model making is scant preparation for this type of model. As stated in our e-mails, Admiralty Models stands behind our products. Again, we are happy to offer you a full refund (less postage) should you wish to return the plans. Perhaps a Hahn style plank on frame ship model might be an alternative for you to achieve a similar style of model. This is a hobby and there is no reason you should be so stressed out by one project. Should you decide to continue I suggest you carefully examine the logs of Toni, Dan, Ben, Annobium P, etc. Everything you need to do is shown in these wonderful logs. In addition, please take the time to watch the excellent videos by Kevin Kenny. He spent countless hours documenting the framing of his hull, warts and all. It's all there for you free of charge, courtesy the the Nautical Research Guild. I would have preferred to handle this privately but such is life. I would be happy to your concerns discuss further at dvm27@comcast.net
  5. Plank on frame airplane modeling...a far cry from the plastic models of my youth. Makes me want to take a stab at a WWI biplane or triplane. Or recently, I was diverted by a You Tube modelers chanel specializing in WWII aircraft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-Mdr1mgVuU. The level of detail and finishing is amazing. And those damned Pocher classic automobiles...
  6. Well Kenny, Harold did not use power tools (except a lathe perhaps). He even cut out all his frames with a fret saw. So while power tools are nice you can certainly do excellent work without them or with brands that aren't quite Byrnes quality.
  7. I don't know, Keith. Would you slap a coat of gray paint over the Mona Lisa?
  8. Following Mike's point, you may also wish to consider building a jig to make sure all the frames are the correct height and orientation. On the jig add a keel stop at the bottom to fit the keel slot and two small stops above the toptimbers. On the glued up blank first cut and file the slot for the rabbet. Then trim the toptimbers to fit the top stops. Now that the glued up frame pieces fit the jig exactly, you can cut out the body of the frame and the maximum height of breadth (widest part across the hull) should line up perfectly on both sides of the hull. I would also leave 1/16" outside the line while cutting to allow for slight errors in raising the frames. Finally, if you can swing it, I would highly recommend the Byrnes disk sander to finish the outside of the frames and an oscillating spindle sander for the insides. It'll cut your frame making time in half.
  9. Just personal preference, Kenny, but I believe if you're going to take the time trouble to build a framed model you should leave some of it visible. I think Harold's method of leaving off the planking just below the wales is a good compromise. Otherwise, there are cheaper and faster methods of constructing a hull (plank on bulkhead, lift method, etc.). Or one could plank one whole side and leave the other side in frame. Only problem with this is displaying it to its best advantage.
  10. Druxey is certainly correct, Mark. I find that anguishing and deliberating over redoing a part takes more time than the actual repairs. My motto - when in doubt, rip it out! Of course that could explain why my models take so long to complete.
  11. Good luck with your Raleigh build, Kenny. I built two Hahn-style models before I switched to upright building. His methods may be a bit wasteful but it insures a fair, solid hull. Try to do as much construction and fairing of the hull as you can before separating it.
  12. Very sad news about La Musee de la Marine, Wefalck. I was only in Paris for 48 hours this summer but I spent at least four of them in the museum. Definitely among my top two naval museums in the world. Fortunately, I'm less than an hour from my other favorite in Annapolis.
  13. I am pleased that my original post has spurred others into making donations to support MSW. Please keep in mind that my original intent was to provide support for MSW in addition to my current support of the NRG. Our little corner of the hobby world is pretty remote and we should support all of the resources available to us. Thanks to the moderators for explaining exactly how it all fits together and I am quite pleased that a digital subscription will soon be available. I have hundreds of pounds of old ship model magazines sitting in my basement for my heirs to grumble about. I am about to toss them all (no, my local library has no use for them) except for my complete run of Model Shipwright. They're just small enough to take to whatever crappy nursing home facility I end up in and I can reread them ad infinitum.
  14. Admiralty Models will be offering a brand new workshop directly following the Nautical Research Guild annual meeting in October, 2017, Tampa Bay, Florida. It will take place in the same hotel venue, October 29 -30, and we will be able to offer the same room rates. A brief description follows: Have you been put off modeling an 18th century ship by the complexity of the headwork? Then this workshop is for you! Learn the hows and whys of expansion drawing parts such as the main rail. Actually assemble a mock-up of headwork and make patterns for the head timbers. Two days of theoretical and practical work with David Antscherl and Greg Herbert of Admiralty Models Required tools will be minimal. We will be supplying a laser cut knee of the head and headrails. Participants will have a simple homework assignment to do prior to the workshop but this shouldn’t take more than an hour or so. We will be incorporating multimedia to better appreciate the demonstrations presented. Oh, and we will be working in 1:36 scale to make it easier for the 99% of us who can no longer work without magnification. Cost of the two day workshop will be $275. If interested please let me know so I can reserve a space for you. Please do not send a deposit at this time! Many details still need to be worked out. If you would like to attend please send an e-mail directly to me at dvm27@comcast.net.