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Everything posted by jud

  1. David, Was in Sitka the summer of 65 aboard the Troller, "Cape Race", fishing for Kings and Halibut. Should have chased that neighbor girl by the docks, someone might have offered you a job as a Boat Puller on a boat. jud
  2. Sister gave me some photos I did not know existed, they are dated the summer of 1956 when I was 13. Anyone else have some early photos, like to see them and the story that goes with them. 1. Me pulling the combine from a John Deer Model "R". 2. Me on the tractor, we stopped to unload because Mom was driving the truck. 3. Me and my Cayuse Mare, 'Sandy'. 4. First Cannon, made it from an old hitch found in the iron pile, a pillow block from the same source, Arranged so a roll of caps could be placed in the pillow block inside the barrel, and a carriage bolt let in thru the holes I drilled so it could rest on the caps, a hammer blow would get a good bang and some smoke.
  3. "This is the area that many wanted, and perhaps didn't even know it. If your topic is nothing to do with the world of ships or ship modelling, then here is the place to post it. General chat, Birthday announces, non-ship models, etc. " Also, if you missed it, I did insert my first,' Naval Gun', thought some might enjoy seeing I was a gun nut, even as a kid. You can just skip over Shore Leave if it bothers you, that is it's reason for being here and expected of those who find it offensive. jud
  4. Me too
  5. You might look in a place that sells feed with some tack, feed stores are much cheaper than a dedicated horse tack outlet. Twisted cotton rope is often used for halter rope, looks nice and is a twisted thread and strand product like standard twisted rope. It can be washed and when done, sprayed or soaked in a thin dilution of white glue or as I did on the larger stuff, sprayed with scotch guard to keep them easy to clean. Cotton is used for lead rope because it is harder to get rope burns from, can still get them you work just harder for them. I used a glass marble inside of a monkey fist for drape pull ends, 'hard woven nylon', about 1/8", 4 turns and painted them with diluted white glue, works well. Just rope pulls using your hemp would look good, for a single pull, like would be needed on a door pair opening from the center, would be to just make one of the crown knot configurations to dangle, several choices, if you lead the surplus rope out the center, then separate and trim for the threads to be accented, again scotch guard would make living with them easier. Nice thing about using rope, you can easily change to a new piece with a different hitch or knot. Boxes with treasures come and they go, kind of like socks except they usually show up again for a time. jud
  6. Yep; the Turtle probably had a seal on the hatch, a way to hold it closed until water pressure increased on the outside, pressurizing the hatch and seal, just like the new boats. Not a lot of detail in either rendering, of the hatches, but like cargo hatches there are only a few ways to get the job done, be it the Revolutionary War or the Cold one. You were just referring to the hatches, weren't you ? Did you notice the similarities of the Archimedes Screw used on both vessels for propulsion ? jud
  7. Recognize that the photo was 1940's technology which had been in use for over a hundred years, it worked, some refinements and material differences being the major differences as time marched on. When using hatch boards or gratings covered with canvas as a water tight seal you have few choices on how to do it repeatedly, quickly and effectively, so although 1940's technology in the photo, other than the materials used, it would not have been considered unusual in the 1600's. Otherwise I would not have tossed it into the pot. jud
  8. iYou can see the clips, cover and wedges piled up under the cover, can't see the battens, 'they were 3" wide +/- 1/4" flat iron placed outboard of the covers and then wedges driven between them and the clips, wedging the battens and cover in place'. Notice the Beams and Hatch Boards, those hatch boards resemble all I have seen aboard ship in that the hand holds, which a hook can be fitted into, were flush with the board surface, most models have eye bolts with a ring on top of the hatch boards, question that, don't need lumps and wear points on top of the hatch boards. On long spans there are hold downs, today or on the old ships I rode there were flat iron hold downs on the top of the battened down hatch covers, they were hooked outboard on the hatch combing, separated in the center and held together with long bolts that were tightened. They held the canvas hatch cover down to the boards, stopping the covers from lifting when of wind and water crossed.
  9. Good discussion can be found starting at post 3440 on NenadM's log for his scratch built Cutty Sark. Read it starting at post 3440 andn you will see some photos of what he did and there are also some photos of the hatches aboard the Cutty, one shows the clips, battens, cover but no wedges, worth a look. I have some photos of the hatch covers aboard a ship that brought us supply's and ammo frequently in RVN, if I can find them I will have a new post with attachments. jud
  10. Not today, yesterday attended my only surviving Aunt and Uncles 70th wedding anniversary celebration. jud
  11. I would build a section of decking, stained well and polished, with the fixtures cleaned up and painted or plated, then mounted directly to the deck section. There is not going to be much light because of the heat trap design of the fixtures, bulbs will burn out and the fixtures will become dangerously hot. Maybe LED's would stay cool enough, don't know. Make a good decorator piece, black iron plumbing pieces sure do nothing for me, but it is you that needs to be pleased. Like your thinking and use of salvage, my favorite place to go shopping is a salvage yard. jud
  12. The film ,'Sand Pebbles', a film about the life of a seaman aboard a China Gun Boat on one of the rivers in China during the. ' Boxer?', Rebellion. McQueen played the part of an Machinist Mate First Class, with some good engine room footage, how accurate the set was, I don't know, it looked good enough for me to believe it was based on the real thing. One scene shows the danger of working on a steam engine without putting the jacking gear in place, resulting in the sudden movement when pressurized steam leaked past a valve and into the cylinders. I enjoyed the Picture because it was a good story but enjoyed the ship details as well as the river and shore activities. Those boats were 100 feet +/-, coal and later oil fired, they used piston engines, would need to see it again to identify the type of configuration that power plan used. The Triple Expansion Engines were used in Liberty Ships during WW 2, the Turbines went to warships, later the Victory Ships I thing used turbines. Looked it up, it was based on the troubles in China in winter 1926-27,Yangtze River. About 10 years before the USS Panay incident when the Japanese sunk her in the Yangtze River in 1937 jud
  13. Wood and metal both expand and contract at different rates and there is the effect of wood expanding and contracting with moisture changes while metal does not creates lots of microscopic movement at the glue joint. Use an adhesive that will remain plastic over time, I would think about reinforcing the joint with small rivets or a roughed up inside surface of the hinges. Although messy, Plumbers Goop comes to mind. Have used it to attach surveying info and warning aluminum posters to cliff faces, Railroad tool shacks and large glacier deposited boulders, once used it to hold stamped brass washers to a concrete floor, remaining floor after a chemical fire so the hazardous remains could be monitored by grid, all stayed put in the outside elements, some still are in place after 40 years. Good Stuff. jud
  14. You can hold a ship against tide, current and wind using a stone as has been found in very old wrecks. the larger the forces the more mass is needed to hold the ship so something beside mass was needed. Iron anchors are heavy because of the need for strength to resist bending, not for the mass. An Iron or steel anchor is configured so the anchor lies so the flukes will dig their way into the bottom material under strain as long as that strain is along the floor of the anchorage. They are designed so that a strain from above will pull the flukes out of the bottom. Upsetting the anchor requires the most lifting capacity, so the ship itself is normally used for that. Scope is the amount of anchor cable out, think the ideal minimum was 6 time the water depth to prevent upsetting the anchor and drifting while it digs its self back in. Hoisting the anchor was a big deal, not much more lift needed than lifting a spar though, except for breaking the anchor loose from the bottom and the ship itself was normally used to for that by sailing over and past the anchor, then the capstan used for the up and down lift. The smaller anchor cables were used directly on the capstan, as the cable size increased other lines were used on the capstan and that rope was moused to the cable in various ways, lift to limits, secure and re-rig for the next lift. Maybe not the direct answer you look for, but it might help in keeping your search within practical limits. jud
  15. Nathan; haven't settled on drafting from the ground up or importing a scanned copy. Don't choose between use both on different layers. On your ground up work use a grid, I always use the North East Quadrant so my coordinates are all positive. I also work in real size in cad, Being a land surveyor I use decimal feet and convert everything to that including inches and fractions. The advantage of using full size is that scaling to any scale later is easy. Pick some good dependable and commonly agreed dimensions like deck length, overall length to base your coordinate system on and start with even numbers that allow you to relate it to the ship, frame 34 being 123 feet from the stem, I would make that frame's station as 223.00, the keel at that frame might be 16 feet below the waterline that coordinate would be 84 if my baseline was the waterline, so the 2 D choord would be 223.000, 84.000 on the side view, A surveyor trait of using E-W as the X and N-S as Y so some will be wondering what I am saying. Use what works for you, but you get the idea. You can slide your scanned layer around under your drawing as you build it, expect to kind some discrepancies. Make this into an enjoyable time, you will be gaining in spurts between frustrations, normal, just backup on different layers so you have a point to go back to if something goes poof, also keep an eye on point numbers and destinations, clean them up occasionally, don't need data with 20% being useful and you will without housekeeping. jud
  16. In 66 had a buddy who built a RC speed boat at the base hobby shop, when we were part of a recommissioning crew for LST 601. He was reusing radio equipment he had owned for some time. If I remember correctly, the most important piece of equipment we had was the row boat rented to chase his pride and joy, model worked good at arms length, but! jud
  17. Batteries are salvaged for their lead and like Michael's suggestion of lead wheel weights, that lead could be melted and cast into useful shapes, just take care with the salvage operation while separating the lead. Freightliner probably would have been a good job, maybe the opportunity will again become available. When I returned from RVN, I drove a few cab over White Freightliners, but being a country boy, avoid Portland and those who gather there today. jud Just caught SpyGlass's post. The internal ballast would probably be just fine, moment arms are just moment arms and the forces can be balanced by changing length or force. The Pond Yachts and the forces acting on them could be duplicated with internal ballast, but the scale increases the effects of wind gusts and the dampening effect of a deep keel would prevent a sudden blow down, so such a keel is worth considering, even if the ballast is internal, that below the waterline detachable keel, might be very helpful.
  18. Less see, you have a 40" length at waterline and a 6" beam, 40" X 6" = 240 sq in. X 6" draft = 1440 cubic inches for a rectangular cross section, your hull is probably about 35 % of that, so there is 504 cubic inches of water displacement in your hull using those very loose numbers. A cubic foot is 1728 cubic inches so you have 0.292 cubic feet displacement in your hull. A cubic foot of water weighs 62.4 pounds, a cubic foot of solid cast lead weighs 708 pounds. 0.292 X 62.4 = 18.221 pounds; 0.292 X 708 = 206.736 pounds. So roughly your hull will displace about 18 pounds of water and 207 pounds of lead which would sink her like a stone, sounds like you have plenty of room for the needed lead inside that hull, leaving plenty of room for electronics and mechanical needs. You could find or build a chamber to make some displacement tests so you know what the volumes are you are dealing with, even then adjustment will be needed. Go buy a couple of 10 pound bags of shot, get a size that you can use the extra in your shotgun or to sell or give to someone who reloads shotgun shells, heck, that even shows you where to find the shot you need. Remember, lead shot has air voids, so the smaller the shot the smaller the volume/pound, not really much volume difference between smaller shot but your loose shot will take up more room than a cast solid chunk, still have plenty of room. Place your shot loose so you can adjust but remember to keep your waterline high, because you will be adding to the ballast mass and weight by filling the shot voids with a binder of some sort. Have fun and don't be afraid to do some experimenting. Heck if your boat don't float when she is done, you will have one heck of a door stop and have collected a vast amount of knowledge about hydraulics you should find useful for the next go around. jud
  19. MacDonnell of Keppoch
  20. Imagination runs wild within those romantics who have never done it. With the sails up and drawing, roll is shortened, dampened with much of it eliminated, so aiming aids were not useless at sea in those days. It took experience, good timing and skill to take advantage of such aids but aiming the gun at the end or beginning of a roll is a position the ship is in that is quickly duplicated or nearly so at the end and beginning of each roll. At cannon ranges, sighting during those times can be fruitful. Could not expect sharpshooter results, but your prospects of hitting what you wanted were greatly improved by employing a gun sighting device, be it the Mark 1 eyeball or mechanical. It was the Lock Time that caused the greatest problems while shooting from a moving platform, it was random up until electric primers were introduced. Also close to the sea, a wave can come up and catch the round, sighting might have been perfect, but the watcher sees a huge miss. Those marks appear to reflect the basketball trajectory of a cannon at very short ranges, that being the case, it would not surprise me to find that those marks were part of sight and used aboard ship, nor would I be surprised to find out that the target was not even looked at using a sight but the marks were in place so that all guns could be elevated uniformity in relationship to their bores and the battery Captain timed the shots using roll and experience to start the ignition sequence by shouting, 'FIRE'. jud
  21. I don't know, perhaps a reference for a sight setting device and sight. Or maybe it is one of those markings the gunner used for his own references. I always painted a red line on the side of every 40 MM gun that I had anything to do with, very few ever knew what they were for. A 40 MM gun is not designed to be re-cocked and a second try to set the round off using the firing pin, so the way to do it is not taught or approved. I did it numerous times safely. Before there was a need I tested each gun and its operating handle to find out how far it needed to be rotated to re-cock the firing pin, yet not begin opening the breach, that point was marked with my red paint. Had a misfire once on a forward gun of a newly recommissioned ship, LST 601', the crew was evacuated and I and the trainer stayed, he kept the gun trained in a safe direction and wore the sound powered phones, I was there to make things safe. I requested permission to attempt to unload through the muzzle, received it, re cocked and fired the gun. Next thing I knew the Captain was asking me why that gun fired, I told him and he told me he had been to 40 MM school and what I had just done, couldn't be done. After my explanation, I continued and taught how to do it safely. I hated to open a breach on a misfire, my first was a 3" 50, waited the 30 minutes after the last attempt to fire it, it was a cool gun with no danger of cooking off the projectile. Opened the breach and carefully extracted the round, worked it down through the loader and careful passed it to the Gun Boss, 'a Warrant Gunner', he shook the round, flipped it over and thumped the primer with his cocked index finger, said 'faulty primer', then threw it over the side. So maybe you are looking at some marks left by an experienced gunner respected enough to be allowed to mark his guns as he found convenient. So until you find a better reference, just call those marks, 'Gunner's Tracks', they are stamped or carved in, not cast. jud
  22. Went aboard her in 66, basically a main deck wander about tour. Couldn't get into the guns, Bridge, Wheelhouse, engineering spaces or crew quarters but still glad to get aboard. Looks like a model I will be watching go together, it already looks as if I can expect some interesting historical tidbits scattered around. I really enjoy those tidbits, adds to the build log, for me anyway. jud
  23. Birth Certificate from a hospital in Pendleton, Oregon 1942, assume I am of human origin. jud
  24. Also, it is the standard for a short splice is to have 3 tucks, so they would appear to be one more tuck longer than Chucks examples. It does look like a handy trick for simulating a short splice in the small work he has intended this technique to be used, would hate to see it used where an actual splice could be made, simply because it would be obvious it was not spliced. jud
  25. If you are speaking about my post about closing up the hull and mounting your Bow Thrusters on the foremast and Bowsprit, I was being a Wise ***, thought better of it so it was deleted, hoped it hadn't been noticed. What you label as compartment #2 is where, from photos I have seen would be a typical location for the thrusters. Usually there is a watertight bulkhead near the bow called a collision bulkhead, were I building a ship, I would want the thrusters forward of that bulkhead but I don't know what the practice is, never rode a ship with bow thrusters, used spring lines, wind, current or tugs to swing the bow, rudder only swings the stern. jud