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About tigoe

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    New York

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  1. Joe, I have both the Serline Lathe and Mill. I have some older models as they were second hand, but they still work well. Let me know when you want to take a look at them and I can bring them up to your house, or you can come down to my shop. Thank you, Tim
  2. What have you received today?

    I have both the mill and the lathe. Mine are two decades old, but function flawlessly. It is good to see they are putting better dials on the new ones.
  3. I have this book in my library and categorically recommend it. It was invaluable when I did my U.S.S. New Ironsides project. - TIgoe
  4. I am halfway though building the PDN. Some things to consider on the kit. Cons: 1. The lines (body and sheer) follow the admiralty draught after it's capture. 2. The ship was re-armed many times over it's career. The kit shows the ship armed with gunades and chasers. At one point it had a concentration of 8-12 6 pounder long guns that were replaced by the carronades to provide a much higher weight of broadside. 3. Despite the ship being supplied with brass carronades and chase guns, they are too big and out of scale. Also the carriages are too large for the model. 4. The gunport strip supplied in the kit is also off. It would be easier to frame them in instead of using the template. 5. The kit instruction booklet is cryptic at time without a clear correlation with the plans, but with some sleuthing and asking questions here (to those that have built the kit) that aspect can be overcome. Pros: 1. The ship's hull is very easy to plank for a first ship. I would also recommend if you go down this road and build the kit, that you consider coppering the hull. The real ship was coppered, but the kit does not call that out. 2. The rigging is simplified, and is a decent primer on how a smaller flush deck ship was rigged. 3. Gunades only have breaching ropes, so those also are simplified. However, it is very easy to add the run in and run out tackle. 4. There are some excellent books available for background research. Philip Reed's Period Ship Modelmaking: An Illustrated Masterclass and Howard Chapelles, A Search for Speed Under Sail. Both books provide the information you will need to "fill in the gaps" not provided by the plans and instructions. Summary: The PDN is an excellent kit for a first ship. It provides a means to try your hand at every key element of shipbuilding and working on a larger or higher detailed model like the Syren. With attentiveness and just by following the kit - the result can be fantastic, like Joe's version of the PDN above. On the subject of the Syren Kit: First I must stipulate, that the kit is one of the best on the market. It is geared however to a builder who is an intermediate level to advanced who has finished some ships before. However, I have seen many first timers take on this kit and garner good results. I also have the Syren kit on the shelf. Despite that I have finished several ships now, I am still waiting to work on it. The reason for this is due in part to my many projects in the shipyard presently, but despite my current level of experience I would like to gain more proficiency before I work on the kit - so hopefully I may do it justice. Just my perspective. I hope this helps. - Tim
  5. Tom, Probably the best source is the sail plan from 1815. I believe drawn by Charles Ware. However, like anything related to the USSC, it is not without it's own controversy. I have a digital copy somewhere and will post it here shortly for you. - Tim
  6. I would select Matte. Caprail would of been buff or black. Also each Captain had certain latitude to paint their ship as they saw fit within certain parameters. So whatever you choose should be alright. - Tim I.
  7. I love mine. I dropped my Dremel a year ago in favor of my Foredom. I use the foot pedal, to vary the speed -- it comes in handy. Bottom line, well worth the money. - Tim I.
  8. Thank you Jack. I am also excited to announce that Ships in Scale Magazine will be publishing a series of articles on this build, as a followup to my previous build on the USS New Ironsides. Tim I.
  9. Wood movement on ship hull

    Are the planks the same thickness? I have found at time based on fairing there are some issues with the planks raising on the leading edge. I'm could also be due to the quality of the wood. I have never worked with Cyprus.
  10. Work station clutter

    I find it easier to clean up after every building session and put everything back away. The worst thing is the search for that tool you know you have but has disappeared (under something) into the black hole of the work bench. - Tim
  11. My recommendation is pick a scale you feel comfortable working in. I have built a lot of models in various scales, some small and some large. Each pushes my ability on different levels. I gravitate to the scales that I feel I can still push myself (in gaining ability), but at the same time do a faithful representation of my chosen subject. This I presume is different for every modeler. I will second what Mark (mtaylor) said about some of the larger scales. It is easier to find after market items (like those small scale plastic kits have), to finely detail them -- or choose to detail them on your own. I find that the larger scales are easier to hide the inevitable mistakes that creep into a build. Just my two cents. - Timothy Igoe
  12. The reality of any hobby is that it is one generation away from extinction. Everything ebbs and flows. If we want the art of ship model building to survive, we need to be emissaries at every opportunity, to get the next generation energized and involved. The real question is, are we willing to do it? - Timothy Igoe