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Everything posted by FlounderFillet5

  1. Fantastic news!
  2. Clever idea! Thanks for sharing, I will certainly make use of this tip in the future.
  3. Hey all, I found a good deal on some small size end mills with two and four flute varieties as well as square and ball end varieties in 5-10 packs and was wondering if anyone would be interested in a set of one - two of various types and sizes for a bundle price. They work out to be around $5 each, much cheaper than the $10-$20 dollars on most sites. They are carbide cutters made in the U.S.A. and I am very interested in purchasing some, but don't need so many of each size and variety. If there is some interest here, we can talk about what you ask want included and I can purchase the mills and make sets to put up for sale here. Just gauging if there is interest in something like this, if there is, I'll go ahead and make some purchases. I hope you all are having a wonderful day.
  4. Small size end mills group buy interest

    They are sold on ebay, just search for the seller roguesystemsinc.
  5. Small size end mills group buy interest

    I'm unlikely to purchase all of the listed bits, any discussion on which ones you would be most interested in would be welcome.
  6. Small size end mills group buy interest

    Here is what I currently see offered: 1/8” (0.125”) 4-flute square end 1/8” (0.125”) 2-flute ball end 1/8” (0.125”) 2-flute 90 degree point end 3/32” (0.09375”) 4-flute square end long (1/2”) length of cut 3/32” (0.09375”) 4-flute ball end 1/16” (0.062”) 2-flute square end 1/16” (0.062”) 4-flute square end 1/16” (0.062”) 2-flute ball end 1/16” (0.062”) 4-flute ball end 3/64” (0.046875”) 4-flute square end 0.040” 2-flute square end 0.040” 2-flute ball end 1/32” (0.03125”) 2-flute square end 1/32” (0.03125”) 4-flute square end 1/32” (0.03125”) 2-flute ball end 1/32” (0.03125”) 4-flute ball end 0.024” 2-flute square end 0.010” 2-flute square end 1/8” 2-flute 90 degree chamfer #000 (0.020”) Center Drill #00 (0.025”) Center Drill
  7. Hello out there! I am currently living in an apartment where room is scarce and build space is almost non existent, but I have a space to set up my mill. I am planning on building a ship in 1:64 scale once I move after graduation, probably the Syren. I wanted to know what the typical sizes of blocks, deadeyes, etc are so that I can make a bunch out of some spare boxwood I have laying around in the meantime. I figure that it will save me some cost on my next build(s) by making them myself, not to mention I will know that they were my blocks and get some satisfaction from that later on. If you guys could chime in on what size blocks and the like I should mass produce, I would appreciate it. If you also have information on the dimensions of them, like a diagram of the layout or the like, that would save me a little time as well, but that is information that I'm sure I can find somewhere on my own. Any information would be greatly appreciated and would get me back into doing what little I can related to model ship building in my current place. Thanks in advance! Best Regards, Max
  8. Common blocks & the like for 1:64 scale ships

    Chuck, thanks for the input. That makes complete sense, I hadn't realized that. Per, I agree with you about Chuck's products. I bought some blocks and line from chuck for my Phantom, although I haven't gotten to too much of the rigging, only rigging the deadeyes and a few blocks, but they were very high quality from what I could tell. I just figured that I could save a little cash and get a bit of a modelling fix by making my own since I have the tools to make them now. I will compare them to Chuck's blocks to see if the quality of my home made ones is acceptable.
  9. Hey guys, thank you for your responses! These are about the prices I have been seeing, I might just have to bite the bullet and buy a handful at about $13 each. Good call on the dental burrs, I hadn't thought of that. I will also check out your Proxxon catalog to see what is available.
  10. Common blocks & the like for 1:64 scale ships

    Thanks for the responses! I know how to convert scale, but guess I don't really know where to find sizing of the original rigging components to scale down. @Chuck: would you say that most model expo kits show accurate sizing of blocks in the materials lists? Or should I only trust the ones you have worked on? Thanks again!
  11. Hey guys, Great topic here, very useful information! I have been looking for some small size end mills and have had trouble finding them for reasonable prices or in decent sets. My question is if anyone knows of a good source for these. I have found some on ebay and micrommark has a few, but just wanted to know if there is a hidden gem out there for them. Size of shank doesn't really matter as I have a 3/8" end mill holder as well as a set of collets that go down to nearly 0 gap. Thanks in advance for your input.
  12. Common blocks & the like for 1:64 scale ships

    Thanks for the quick responses this! I'm aware that I can find the parts lists for their kits, but was under the impression that they are typically oversized in kits or they will put 20 of one size instead of 15 of that size and 5 of a slightly smaller size, for example.
  13. Hello, I am interested in buying the model shipways Willie L. Bennett kit and was just wondering how the instructions are that come with it. I took a look at them on the website but wasn't sure as to how well it walks you through the build. This will be my second build and first POB build so I just want to know if this will be a good kit to start POB with. Any comments, opinions, guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
  14. Phantom Rigging Question

    Hey everyone, I just got to the rigging on my first ship model, the MS Phantom, and had a question about the rigging. Is the rigging shown on the plans the complete rigging, or is it missing some of the rigging for the sails. I would like to, if possible display her with sails but am unsure on whether or not it makes sense with the rigging plan supplied with the kit. Also, I would appreciate any input on what state the rigging would look good in, i.e. full sail, half sail, furled sails etc. Thanks in advance for any and all input you guys are willing to share with a young deck hand. On a side note, if it is recommended to display with unfurled sails, I plan to use a method I found a while back that uses dyed thread pulled through to the undyed cloth to simulate the stitching in a closer to scale way. Preliminary tests have shown promise but canbea quite frustrating process because if a thread breaks, that could be all she wrote for that sail. Thanks again,
  15. Phantom Rigging Question

    Thanks for the response Don, I think that the rigging plan includes both standing rigging and running rigging since the kit came with both black (standing) and tan (running) line. I just wasn't sure if the running roofing that is included in the rigging plan includes the rigging for the sails or just for moving the yards and whatnot around. I'm not sure if there is separate running rigging for yards and sails, but if the sails are attached to the yards, it would stand to reason that they are one in the same. Like I said, just new top this and don't yet know the basics of rigging. I also need to sit down and closely examine the rigging plan some more and try to figure out the purpose of each line, I think that will clear some things up. Good luck on rigging your Bounty, she is looking great so far!
  16. What have you received today?

    Marc, you are right. I am both very happy and lucky, one perk of doing well in school and getting scholarships. The beginning of the semester usually means quite a bump to the savings accounts, usually, not quite this semester though haha.
  17. What have you received today?

    I have had a very exciting couple weeks receiving many new tools, accessories, and books. A combination of a need for some of these tools for engineering school projects and the admiral giving me a very generous tool budget (partly in exchange for a truck down payment), I have had fun researching what tools to purchase and received delivery of just about everything in the last couple weeks. Tools include: Byrnes saw with most accessories except the tilting table Byrnes thickness sander Sherline 4400A lathe with self centering 4 jaw chuck, compound slide, tailstock drill chuck, center drills, thread cutting attachment, 10,000 rpm pulleyset, and some other accessories that are not coming to mind but came with the package deal Sherline 2000 8-axis mill (this could have been a build log on its own to get it set up and the head trammed) with the sensitive drilling attachment, end mills, rotary table, tilt table, 10,000 rpm pulley set, and more. A sanding block from micromark Some measurement tools from littlemachineshop but I am not really satisfied with the quality of these so I may return them and just buy one or two Starrett indicators and build these up slowly. I also ordered a couple boxwood sheets from crown timberyard for turning some masts for my Phantom build and for testing out the tools in general with hardwood. I also picked up a florescent shop light at a garage sale with extra bulbs for $10, which seemed like a steal, to place over my workbench for some much needed overhead lighting. The admiral also went on amazon and ordered many shop modeling books from my wishlist (it is a nice truck lol) including: The built up ship model andth the ship model builder's assistant by Charles Davis Ship modeling from scratch by Edwin Leaf Ship modeling from stem to stern by Milton Roth Planking techniques for model ship builders by Donald Dressel Over the past couple weeks I have been assembling the sherline tools when I find time and yesterday I did some test cuts on the byrnes saw of some 3/4" plywood I had laying around and was very impressed by the ease abs accuracy of the cuts achieved. Now that the tools are all in, set up, and relatively organized, it is time to spend any free time I find working on the Phantom and playing with the new toys. Luckily, I will be able to use these for my school projects and design prototyping so ship modeling will not be their only use, though they will be really nice to have for this hobby, especially when I make the transition to scratch building sometime in the future. Additionally, the books will make for some good reading between classes when all coursework is caught up and responsibilities are met. Like I said, a very exciting couple of weeks! I won't need any new tools for a sore with the exception of maybe a band saw to process rough wood and a bench top grinder for making lathe tools. See you guys around!
  18. Hello there, I am in the market for a bench top drill press and would like some suggestions from you all. I currently have a cheap chinese made bench top drill press that I picked up for about $60 a couple years ago. My current drill press has done some good work for me but I really don't think it is that safe as the pull down handle can be pulled out and this causes the spring loaded drill press head to shoot toward the ceiling which has broken the top plastic cover. This time around I am able to spend a bit more money but I am having trouble finding reviews that I trust for these small drill presses. I have looked at the Microlux drill presses from Micromark and they both seem decent but I have heard mixed reviews of them. I would definitely prefer a drill press that will, like the Byrnes sander I own, last many years and hopefully be a pleasure to use. Most of what I am finding are very similar drill presses to the one I currently have and I am skeptical to get anything that resembles my current press. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance! Best Regards,
  19. Looking for a Bench Top Drill Press

    Al, Kurt linked one earlier in this topic for one that looks to have a 1/8" shank since it is in a rotary tool. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_161&products_id=3338 The other one linked was to a micro mark drill chuck which has a 5/16" chuck.
  20. Rough Holly Questions

    Hello, I recently purchased a Byrnes saw and thickness sander and would like to start finding wood to use for my next build. I contacted a local wood supplier and asked if they could track down some holly, pear, or boxwood and they just called me back saying they could get some holly. The wood comes in rough cut 15/16" thick boards up to about 6" in width. My question is what kind of dimensions should I be looking for with rough cut wood? I do know that it is best to resaw down to the thickness you need with the widest side being the face, in this case, I would have to saw the wood such that I would be cutting down the 15/16" dimension to the rough size I would need, correct? Also, the asking price is $34.25/boardfoot, it this a reasonable price for rough cut holly? Any help getting into milling my own stock would be a great help. I have seen topics coving milling wood from rough stock but I am unsure what the maximum dimensions of the wood I will be able to process will be with these small tools and no band saw. Thanks,
  21. Tweezers Deal

    I ordered a set of these, can't pass up such a great deal. Like you said, even if they are terrible, at least you are only out $2.50. No biggie! Thanks,
  22. Looking for a Bench Top Drill Press

    Al, I think the drill bit chucks that are being referred to probably have shank sizes between 1/8" and 1/4", but that is just my assumption.
  23. Rough Holly Questions

    Thank you guys for the informative responses, it is now official, a band saw is back on the Christmas list unless I can find a suitable one at a steal before then. Jason, thank you for giving me a price comparison on the wood, it sounds like I was offered a more than fair deal on these boards. I may have to purchase a board foot or two to have on hand when the time comes that I can process it down to Byrnes scale lumber. Also, it is helpful to hear an experienced person's point of view on board dimensions for the Byrnes saw. Frank, I have been looking for a band saw of the rough size you mention, I have found a couple 14" Delta's and I think I have seen a Rockwell for sale recently, though both of them were much newer which does not seem to be a positive with these companies as they used to be built rock solid and the newer ones don't seem to be built to the same standards. Jaager, The Grizzly looks really nice, I will have to keep an eye out for a second hand one. If not, I will continue to look for band saws that have 1+ HP motors to accomplish resawing. I have some of the other species of wood you mention on hand that I use for scrolling work but so I should be able to get a bit of practice using my tools and maybe I will do a small scratch build with some of these materials to get my toes wet. You did mention a couple varieties of wood that I have never seen or heard of, I will have to look into those so that I am aware of them when the time comes to purchase wood for a build down the line that they may be suitable for. Thanks again for all of the great responses, I will be able to move forward more informed and hopefully get to the point where I can process my own wood down by the end of the year, or by my birthday in March if Christmas doesn't pan out . See you guys around,
  24. Rough Holly Questions

    Frank, Thanks for the quick response! That is pretty much what I figured, So the 15/16" boards would need to be resawn on a band saw down to slightly thicker than wanted thickness, process in the thickness sander and then ripped into planks on the byrnes saw. So, this tells me that I would either need to buy boards that are resawn to slightly thicker than needed boards for me to re-dimension and rip or I would need to get my hands on a band saw or find someone with one who would do this work at a reasonable price or a case of beer. hmm, I almost bought a band saw recently but opted for some other small scale tools instead. Maybe a band saw will be back on the Christmas list. Are there band saws out there that run on 110V and have enough power to resaw wood in this manner? Also, what would you recommend for board widths for most modelling work? I figure about 3" wide boards are probably suitable to do most framing work and pretty much any width will work for ripping planks. Regards,
  25. Looking for a Bench Top Drill Press

    Yes, that is the same type as I had and paid a little less at a jewelry supply site as he mentioned. It was not very accurate but it did as good a job as you can expect from a tool in this price point. This cheap still press is a big step up from no drill press at all though, so if it is all you can spend, it is worth the cash in my opinion. On a side note, the sherline mill and large combo I found turned out to be in much worse condition than it was described to me so I am back to square one. Well, not quite square one, because now I am looking at spending entirely too much on a new much better equipped pair of sherline tools with lots of extra tooling. I am trying to justify it as I can use the tools for prototyping machines and devices of my own design, I just need to convince myself to drain some savings funds lol.. We will see what I end up with in the next few weeks.