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    Elma, New York

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  1. I double checked with another supplier and the blocks were the same size, I guess I will have to live with it. Mike I will check you log to see how you handled it. Thanks for the tip. Ron
  2. I need some input here. I started installing the buns o the deck and installing the Gun Tackle and Breech Line and everything seems a bit crowded. I double checked and I am using the 1/8” 3mm blocks and .008 line. The plans call for .012 line but that seemed a bit thick. See below. I measured the blocks and they measure 4mm. I am not sure if the kit came with wrong size blocks or am I too critical. Ron
  3. Mike Thanks for the info, I was planning on having the excess rope coiled up on the deck. I know the formal look would be a flat coil on the deck, but I was thinking of an informal coil set on the deck. I will soak the line in 50% white glue, make the coil, wait for it to dry then mount. The line will be a two piece application, one that goes thru the blocks, then add the coil hiding the cut length. I have tried doing this in the past with a one piece of line and either my fingers are too big, or my dexterity is not that good making the coil, but the final product never looked right. Ron
  4. Things have been going pretty slow between making all the tackles and assembling the carronades. It doesn’t help that the weather here has been pretty good, so I was spending more time outside instead of the workshop. Spent some time priming and painting the guns. I am using a flat black for the guns, I noticed that some build logs have the guns painted a gunmetal blue. I felt black was more appropriate. One issues I found was, nowhere could I find how the carronade were mounted. The description said they pivoted in the front, Hole in the carriage and in the planksheer, and stated it should have been mounted with a pin. I did not have a brass rod the proper diameter, and it would have been a pain cutting it to the proper length if I did, so I decided to use a modified tooth pick. Reduced the diameter slightly and cut it to the proper length. Here is a shot of how it turned out. The quoins are cut and are ready for painting and mounting. I will send pics when they are complete. I am building the port side guns first and see how they look before moving on the starboard side. I am now building the carriages for the 12 pounders. Ron
  5. Started assembling the Carronades, this is a tedious task. I did make some changes and did not follow the drawings. I had difficulty making the breech line plates and the inhaul line plates. I was having difficulty drilling the holes for the rings. I was using my Dremel drill press and kept having the drill slip and end up drilling off the side of the plate. So I decided to make a loop at the end of the plate and inserted the spilt ring through that. Here is a pic of what I did. I was having trouble zooming in and still have it in focus I decided to make a jig to drill the holes and slots for the upper part of the sliding base. I wanted to be sure they were all the same. I used the sheet the parts were punched out of, and added a backing piece. Here is what they look like mounted. This shot shows the rollers attached to the base. I then started assembling the gun tackles. This will also take some patience and time. I am making the seizing by wrapping some line around a needle and putting some thin CA on it. Once removed I cut it to proper length and slip it on to the lines. Ron
  6. Well I completed the making the deck furniture. All sanded and painted, here are a few shots of the completed pieces. I also assembled the capstan. I used the kit supplied split rings and eyebolts for the grate cover. I decided to only cover one grate. I started assembling the 32 pound Caronnades. Cleaned them up and put two coats of red paint. Now onto putting together the rigging for the Caronnades. This looks like it will take some time. I plan on using the method detailed by 6ohiocav in his Niagara build to attach the hooks to the blocks. I also bought some 3mm hooks from Syren, I don’t think I have the skill to make my own at that size. Once they came in, it really surprised me in their size (really small, now I am sure I could not make them). I will post an update once I get farther alone in assembling the rigging. Ron
  7. Started building some of the deck furniture. I plan on building each piece and then later in the build install them. In my last build I put the furniture on early and then had problems installing some of the other equipment on the deck. Here is the companionway partially assembled. And here it is completed. The camera brings out every little flaw, it looks pretty good in real life. Here are shots as I build more of the furniture. Ron
  8. These are some great shots, they will be really helpful. Thanks. I am hoping to drive down and see the ship docked in Erie Pa., its only about an hour and half away, easy drive. Hopefully I can take some more pics to help the build. Ron
  9. Mike, Yours really looks good, a little more than I planned on doing. I think I will go back and review a few more build logs to get more ideas.
  10. I got the idea of the open companionway while I was going over the build log of John Fleming. https://www.niagaramodel.com/ Ron
  11. I decided to have the companionway open, so that required me to build a dummy interior, so that when you looked down into the companionway you would not just see the framing. So built a small box with a false floor and stairs. This also required me to cut the bulkhead to fit the false interior. Below are several pictures of my progress. Here is the box and floor. Floor installed in the box. Bulkhead cut to accept the companionway false interior. Deck cut and box installed. I plan on making a set of stairs to be installed. I modified the floor in the companionway, the slats looked too wide. I also made a set of stairs to go in the companionway. Here is a shot after I installed the deck, waiting for the glue to dry. Needed to form the deck to the bulkheads so there ended up being a slight crown in the deck. Ron
  12. Well I put on a couple of coats of the lower hull paint, I am using a Hunter Green spray paint. I was looking for a flat paint but could not find one locally. So I tried a satin finish. Not really happy with the outcome, it came out way too shiny, almost a gloss finish. I think I will apply a matte over coat to reduce the glossy look. I am going to wait with that process for a while to be sure I do not have to repaint because of accidents. I painted the upper part of the hull and taped off for the Boot Topping. Here is the completed hull minus overpainting to a matte finish of the lower hull. Now onto mounting the deck and start working on the deck furniture. Ron
  13. Three coats of varnish on the deck. Started laying out the furniture before installing. I plan on putting a coat of flat black paint under the main hatch and skylight. Here is a shot of the hull after the first coat of primer. Give a few hours to dry, probably over night the do a light sand and put another coat of primer, before I mark the waterline and put on the final color. Ron
  14. Completed the planking and in the process of sanding it smooth and getting rid of any imperfections. I plan on putting on a primer in the couple of days. I know I that will show up more imperfections that will need to corrected before I put on the hull paint. In the mean time I have been completing the decking. It’s been sanded and is ready for a finish. I plan on using a satin varnish. The final thickness ended up just under a 1/8” so it will end up just below the waterway. Ron
  15. For the name on the stern I plan in printing it on my inkjet printer, yellow lettering on black backbround, then glueing on the ship. I plan on putting a matte finish over it to blend in. I am hoping this works. just a suggestion. Ron

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