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7 Provinces

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  1. Like it a lot Julian! The shrouds are very nice. Also like the painting with the windmills in the back, reminds me of "home" 🙂
  2. Hi Julian, I thought so much (tarred look), but this is almost impossible to attain in a realistic way by brushing paint on the rope (I think) and especially after the rigging is done since you will not be able to reach everything and - in trying to do so - may have some collateral on other lines or masts, etc. I could never imagine traveling that road...
  3. Hi Julian, Painting the rope... seriously?? Oh my that's impossible, you'll never get it to look anywhere near realistic or good in any way 😞. On top of the general problem of painting rope (anyone ever tried that?), this is impossible to do on already rigged parts. There will be parts which you can't reach (but can see) and think of the mess if you make a mistake and touch something which is not supposed to be black 😞 Good decision to order rope that is black to start with. An alternative could have been to dye the rope before rigging but that would have been some work, would probably have cost you as much for the dye as you paid for the black rope and the result could not have been guaranteed. If the rope, for instance is not 100% cotton it might take on the color in some places and not in other places... This is not a nice surprise in such a kit. Excited to see how you move on with the rigging Julian!
  4. Hey Julian, good to see you're still at it! You got some pretty solid techniques there from the looks of it. I'll certainly remember to visit this build log again when I am finally up to that point with my Bluenose... I love to see your work, it really looks very good.
  5. I hear you Bob. Unfortunately I have also had to learn that one has to think in years here, rather than days or weeks... Since we built our house 3 years ago my Bluenose is also patiently awaiting better times... It is what it is. I look forward to seeing more of your work, knowing that this seems far away now but will be there before I know it. 😉
  6. Nice work & looking great Julian! I bet you measured and eyeballed the positions about 8000 times before you finally drilled, I know I would have Nice drill bits, I never saw those before. Mine are all round and yes, they may slip but mainly when drilling concrete. Anyway, these are practical for manual drilling for sure. Hope your wrist is getting better..
  7. Hi Julian, just checking in after being away for some time (working on the house..). I think you are doing a very nice job, your Santa Maria is looking great! About the lathe: I know what you mean. If I would buy all the machines I would like to have I think I could move out ;-) Have you tried a drill? If you have a drill with variable speed and insert the mast intead of a drill or bit, you can rotate the mast. Then press some sandpaper against the rotating mast and you will sand it evenly on all sides. Of course you still have to check and measure all the time but at least it will be even :-) Then in the tools section of MSW there used to be a document showing how you can make a lathe out of a drill by basically securing the drill in one place with wooden blocks and, for longer pieces of wood, making sure you have a hole on the other side where the mast fits into snugly and still and can rotate.. I wish you happy building and will be following your log!
  8. yes that was last year.. Since my last real "build-log" post I have built a house (well had it built for the most part) and I am still busy getting my workspace ready for modelling. And building things for in the house and all that stuff you do in and around a house. So, not quite back in the saddle yet but sharpening the blades, cooking up the glue and mixing the paint so to say
  9. Very nice work indeed. And I agree on the spelling. The other spelling versions could easily have been interpreted (by non-dutch native speakers) from etches where in fact the writing was not so clear... Keep up the good work!
  10. Wow I just returned from being offline for a while only to find... well nothing at first. I could not find my posts, my content, and almost everything I used to. So now I am getting used to the "new" forum. Well it looks good and works nice. Soon enough I'll find my way around it and all is well again In the meanwhile my Bluenose is in the basement waiting for its turn. The house is almost finished and a part of the basement will be my working area. I hope to finish that somewhere in spring or summer and look forward to be able to start modelling again. I'll be back ;-D
  11. Hi Robert, I might be able to help you on your way re. the colors. I did some research for my own Bluenose because the color scheme that came with my kit is so dead wrong that I couldn't bear to look at it. Unfortunately I must conclude that the color scheme was not consistent over the years, so there are different variations which are not very well documented. A nice example of this is the mast hoops which originally are natural wood but on some pictures it is apparent that approximately the lower half have been painted white. I asked around and one of my sources told me that this is normal: sometimes someone would go paint some woodwork when he had nothing better to do... I can PM you my findings if you like, just let me know. O and please do start a build log. It can help you a lot wherever you might get stuck or even when you don't get stuck. Plus there is a lot of Bluenose builders here who are interested to see how you build your Bluenose.
  12. Yeah, plus basically you may know it best as the material most transparent bottles containing water or soda are made from. If it's not glass, it's mostly PET. I bet it is one of the plastics most found in nature unfortunately and It fills the oceans. Why not make the circle round and recylcle it in your ship
  13. Hi, on the note of floppy disk mylar being very nicely shiny but unfortunately not transparent (which would be preferred) I would like to share an alternative: PET. PET, when in pristine condition, is very shiny! Furthermore it is clear, can be obtained in many colors if so needed, can be deformed and everyone has it at home. For the compass of my Bluenose (had no time to post this yet) I used PET from a small nut container which I got in a hotel. It is 0.3 mm thick. I cut out a little piece (like 1 cm square). I drilled a 5 mm. hole in a piece of wood. I heated the PET carefully with a cigarette lighter and pressed it into the hole with the round metal back of my pencil (one you fill with 0.5 mm. pencils). So now I had the shiny transparent dome-like shape I wanted and cut it to a 5 mm diameter circle. This was the hardest part and I only succeeded the second time. Long story short: try some scrap PET (look for a shiny part, behind a label for instance) if your floppy is too opaque.
  14. She's looking beautiful Julian! I hope you were able to switch the lights without too much of a trouble.
  15. Very good suggestion (really appreciate the idea) which I am very afraid to try I see that this would save a lot of time as compared to my way of working used during my tests. Which was to cut 0.5 mm strips from the same 0.7 mm mahogany of which the deck is made (on itself a challenge since the wood splits in all directions but straight) and try to fiddle these into the 0.6 mm holes I drilled (no glue) follwowed by cutting to length and sanding. The good thing of that method: after oiling the deck they really stand out nicely. The downsides: after varnishing they are pretty darn hard to spot (but definitely there) and it takes like forever and a half. So I think it's back to the testing bench to test your method because I reckon that investing an hour here can save five or more there. I hope the result will look good as well... My main concern however is that I would screw up the deck with the glue. I know it will be sanded afterwards but I already sanded a lot (to get the deck even, see previous posts) and it is wearing thin in places So basically I am a bit afraid of either have glue residue which might not look good or prevent me from putting down a nice layer of varnish, or, alternatively sanding the whole deck away in places One question before I start testing: you would be using white wood glue for this I guess? Thanks!
  16. The last couple of weeks I spent the little time I got (with some nice weather, in the garden, kids playing in the sand) on drilling holes in the deck and cutting the planks apart so that they look to have been shorter all along. I hope to be able to finish the deck anytime soon (like before Christmas ;-) ) so that I can finally leave that behind me and start on the hull…
  17. Exactly Maybe you have seen the first pics of my log: same problem. Since I started my build roughly 22 years ago, I do not remember if this was already there at that time (due to me not taking care or having not enough experience) or if this happened while the hull sat on different shelves in different rooms and different countries (humidity, sun, ...) for 20 odd years. Anyway it is there and it is there to stay. So might as well call it a feature
  18. Nice going! If you damage your deck too much by prying the things loose from it you can always still think of planking your deck. Interestingly, on the last picture I seem to notice the same torsion in your model as I have in mine (just the other direction). Maybe it's a "feature" of this kit.
  19. Actually the Bluenose I and II are only superficially resemblant. The latter was not built for fishing and was motorized both of which caused numerous changes to the decks, cabins skylights, etc. But: nice books! Great to have such sources to support your build/restoration!
  20. Ok fine, you never know If you are looking for documentation, you might want to check out the Nova Scotia Archives (or NSA ): http://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/ There is a large number of original pictures (but never enough when you are looking for a detail ) from the Bluenose (1) through the years. I base most of my work on what I see on those pictures.
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