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    Alexandria, VA USA
  • Interests
    Cutty Sark, Victory, Constitution

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  1. Just a reminder if you haven't sent your donation for MSW, it would be a great time to do so! If you use the site, it's nice to give back to keep it operating. i just sent my yearly donation! Marc
  2. Hi Chuck, I agree with you. From everything I've read it would be stowed inboard with the barrel elevated and made fast to the bolt and muzzle against the hull as in the diagram in my earlier post. however, I thought Dave might like to see the breech rope actually rigged as in his drawing. I think that if you don't want to rig the tackle, then it might be a nice alternative for adding some detail. Marc
  3. Saw this photo from the Victory. Thought you might like to see it.
  4. I should have been more clear. The stowed gun doesn't have the barrel running through the hull/bulwark. The attached image of the constitution's gun has a reference to this method at the top of the image showing the muzzle up against the hull and the made fast to the ring above. If you need a better image of this, let me know and I'll take a picture from one of the books best marc
  5. I've seen some ships with the guns secured parallel to the side (fore/aft facing). If you look at books for seamanship during the 1700s and 1800s stowed guns on navel ships have the gun tilted all the way up and brought all the way forward and secured up against the hull with the breeching rope as you show. The period books on seamanship written for midshipmen are great references for how the ships and equipment were operated - including how to stow equipment and even how to step new masts while at sea. Marc
  6. Looking sweet! I love those stairs! makes me want to run up and down them Marc
  7. keelhauled

    Coiling Lines Option

    I think it depends upon how many men it takes to work the line when the line is at its shortest length - when the sails or not set. It would also depend upon which line. Fore example the courses have very long tacks and sheets to accommodate the long runs to the fore and aft sheaves, blocks, winches and even capstan.
  8. keelhauled

    question about sail position

    paintings and old photos are other good reference sources. Each sail also have operating ranges for wind speeds. direction of the wind also dictates which sails are set. Clippers would sometimes have their main and mizzen courses clewed or furled with the fore course set when close hauled. It's my understanding that it had to do with balancing the driver. You can find old photos and painting reflecting this set with the top sails set.
  9. Hi Denis, she's looking great. You are a model building machine!! Once again making me look bad with my lack of progress best Marc
  10. Dennis, You are a ship building machine!!! I've been binge reading your build. What a Beautiful build! nice attention to detail. thanks for the fun! Marc
  11. Hi Moab, that sounds right. My friend uses lemon oil first, then applies the Tung oil a couple of days later (furniture). Just another idea.
  12. Fore and Mast Stay re-rigging adventure.........or don't do work on the ship late at night 😖 Make sure that your read all the way through the post! So, first day back in the shop since my travels. I was looking through Underhill's Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier and saw a diagram of rigging the stays and the top the "correct way" (through the lubber holes) and the "incorrect way" (over the top) of doing so. I remember thinking "novice mistake." Later in the evening (about 10:00 pm) I was sitting looking at my model and noticed that both my fore and main stays were rigged over the top! 😲 I jumped on my computer and brought up the photos that I took on the ship two weeks ago and other photos that I had. Yep, the stays are through the lubber hole. So I spent the next three hours re-rigging the two says. As you can expect very tedious work, un-bonding glue, removing the seizing, trying to save the fully served stays, etc. Shortly after 1:00 am, the stays were both now rigged through t he lubber holes and tensioned in place just waiting glue. I wanted to let them sit tensioned over night before gluing. I was now happy, but exhausted. Success!! Before turning in, I wanted to make sure that I knew where the main stays were seized near the fore mast. As I was looking through the cutty photos, one caught my eye. This one I blinked several times. Is that stay going over the top?! I checked out another couple of photos of the foremast. Yep, over the top, not through the lubber hole!!! I had checked photos. How did this happen? I raced to pull up photos of the mainmast. Here is the photo of the mainmast. I must have pulled up photos of the mainmast thinking it was the foremast and must have been influenced by Underhill. I couldn't believe it. Still can't. The fore stay is over the top and the main stay is through the lubber hole. Thank God that I hadn't glued anything. I went to bed very unhappy. I thought that I'd point this difference out to you, so that you don't make my mistake in rigging [Edit: not a mistake! see the update]. I was correct for the fore (l'm sure that I must have checked and double checked at the time) and incorrect for the main (I think that I was so concerned about the run of the stay and the running of the blocks at the spider band on the fore that I wasn't paying attention). Another factor- I was tired. I'm lucky that I didn't damage anything. I did fix a mistake, but I also created one that I now have to go back and fix. I broke TWO of my rules: 1. DON'T PHYSICALLY WORK ON THE SHIP OR WITH POWER TOOLS WHEN YOU'RE TIRED!!! 2. CHECK, CHECK, AND THEN CHECK AGAIN, BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING THAT I'VE DONE IT THE PAST. I've usually researched it well during that time. Most of the time my second guess is wrong and what I've done is the past is actually correct. Best marc Here's an update! I just finished re-rigging the fore stay to over the top and was putting away the physical photos that I took in 1990. These were sitting on my workbench from last night. There was one of the foremast and my eyes popped out!!! Here is the photo of the foremast. you can clearly tell that it is the foremast from the fish pendant and you can see the main and mizzen behind. Yep, the fore stay is going through the lubber hole. So, I've just spent the time to move the stay from over the top to through the lubber hole, to back over the top again, just to see an image of the stay going through the lubber hole. I feel vindicated that I did see the stay going through the lubber hole of the forestay and wasn't mistaken. However I'm not very happy that I've gone made the change, changed, and changed it again. I'm going in circles!!!!! In most of the photos that I find including Longridge from the 1920's the fore stay is over the top. I actually think that it looks better through the lubber hole and I must have originally had it in this configuration when I determined the height of the cleat, because the line is better. However, since most of the photos have the stay over the top and I'm concerned about the damage being done to the serving of the stay with each re-rigging and the risk to damaging other parts, I'm going to leave the stay over the mast. However, I did want you to be aware that historically the fore stay has been rigged both ways.
  13. Moab, regarding the raised grain, did you acclimate the wood before applying the tung oil? Also conditioning with a diluted oil, let the piece sit, sand and reapply helps. However, like you, my experience with tung oil is with furniture.
  14. keelhauled

    Cutty Sark by Nenad

    very nice! Can't wait to see it come together! Marc
  15. In case you're interested, this is the product that they are using on the Cutty to Tar the standing rigging.

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