• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Charter33

  • Birthday 01/21/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Berkshire, UK
  • Interests
    Model ships -especially HMS Victory (Caldercraft)
    Live steam locomotives
    R/C Aircraft
    Classic motorcycles

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

321 profile views
  1. Hi David, I'm no ICT expert but ...... I'm sure it's possible - try moving the 'flashing' cursor to the bottom right hand corner of a picture and then tap the 'return' key a couple of times to add a few line spaces. You should then be able to type in your comments there. Hope I'm not guilty of teaching you to 'suck eggs' (!) but I tend to write my text first as a word document leaving gaps for the pictures , cut and paste this into the 'reply' box and then upload the pictures into these spaces. I still struggle with the frustrations these clever tech tools throw up at me at times - and I take my hat off to those clever devils who manage to annotate their pictures with arrows, coloured text etc. Hope this helps. Cheers, Graham
  2. Hi, I've been using this on the bowls and platters that I turn on a lathe for many years. Wire wool is not essential, any rusty iron will do. I personally use white vinegar. Like Captainbob explained, wiping the surface of the wood with tea (soggy teabags work too!) will make the end result darker as does applying several coats of the iron/ vinegar mix. I find this process most effective when used on oak because of it's natural tannin content. I believe that the 'ebonising' effect is due to the chemical reaction between the tannin and the acid in the vinegar. Once dry any wood finish can be applied. I like this technique because of the penetration that can be achieved compared with paints etc. that just sit on the surface. Cheers, Graham.
  3. Impressive work! - especially your method of applying second planking, the sharpness of the paint finish and the quality of the copper plating. You're a couple of pages of the instruction manual ahead of me. I shall be following your progress with considerable interest. Cheers, Graham.
  4. Hi, Some advice needed, please. I'm close to completing the lining of the port side gun ports but am thinking about how to deal with the upper gun ports 'with lids'. At the moment the linings that have been completed are set back the required 1 mm on the outside but are slightly proud inside and await their final trimming. Are these linings finished flush with the inside planking or should they also be slightly recessed? Secondly, and irrespective of the answer to the first question, should the edges of these linings on the inner side be finished with red ocher or yellow? Looking at the instructions, images online and exploring other Victory build logs has proved inconclusive. ....... A quick update on the Triton project (Complete) I alluded to a couple of posts ago - the local printers charge very reasonable rates and the resulting plan printed 'true' to scale, I've located a source of cherry timber just over 40 minutes away and I hope to make the trip in a couple of days if I can escape from decorating the bathroom! Just one fly in the ointment - seems the project is temporarily closed to new members .... or maybe this only applies to the cross section? In the mean time there's still plenty to be getting on with. Cheers, Graham.
  5. You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed. I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows - quite simply inspirational. Thank you. Graham
  6. Hi druxey, After quietly rotting in her specially made dry dock next to Cutty Sark Gypsy Moth IV was sold , for £1 and a gin and tonic, and restored to sailing condition in the yard where she was originally built. Since then she has had a very interesting history of which I was totally unaware until I looked her up on Wikipedia just now - a great read which I can recommend. Cheers, Graham
  7. Hi, I am in full agreement with your comments relating to the sad demise of the National Maritime Museum. It's been reduced to little more than a theme park rather than a museum, a reflection of the need for instant gratification and a trend for skimming through details and facts that the young seem to need these days, a need developed and driven by modern technology, games, phones etc. Even the historic buildings at the museum are often regarded as little more than a film set - 'Le Miserables' restricted my access when I went to Greenwich on one occasion. The young seem often to lack the will to actually engage with a topic and as for having to think things through for themselves ..... oh no - 'give it to me on a plate!', ' show me a You-tube clip'. I speak as a Design and Technology teacher with 40 years 'before the mast' and have gone to great lengths to try and inspire the 'customers'. My Victory model sat behind my desk for short time when the hull needed sanding, a job that couldn't be done at home for fear of upsetting the Admiral. They see, they ask questions, they focus better on the work they are asked to do. At other times the chassis of a 3 1/2" gauge steam locomotive grew slowly over the year, and for a period last year my Norton Commando underwent the initial stages of restoration in the corner of the workshop. (after the end of the school day I hasten to add!). If your interested in 'prisoner of war' bone models and are in the North Devon (UK) area I can thoroughly recommend Arlington Court where an extensive collection of these, and other ship models are on display. The house has strong links with Sir France Chichester of sailing around the world 'single handed' fame. To bring this neatly full circle - his yacht 'Gypsy Moth' was on display next to the Cutty Sark back when I was a lad. Those were the days ...... Cheers, Graham.
  8. Hi, The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site. I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area. I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position. It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’. With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned. This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job. The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position. A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one: Its purpose is to help manouvre the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place. Balsa strips in place. The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood. Starboard side is now complete ….. ........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!…. Cheers for now, Graham.
  9. Hello Charter

    How are you?

    I saw your beautiful build log of the victory :)

    now im going to start building the same ship god willing


    I will be more than happy if we will make a contact by Facebook or other way to chat online :)


    best regards


    1. Show previous comments  9 more
    2. michael101


      Thank you !

      i have post the answer in my build log ...

      any way i think to close that build log i guess its only you and me in that build log LOL



    3. Charter33


      Read your build log and the answer all seems to make sense. Replies to questions posted on this site can take a little while to come back either because  members work during the day or live on the other side of the world and are currently asleep!


      Looking forward to seeing your work progressing.



    4. michael101


      Thank you my friend :)

  10. Hi, Tackling the wales proved to be fairly straight forward. After taking measurements from the plan and transferring them onto the hull, a strip of wood was pinned on these marks and, after a little ‘fine adjustment’, the curved lines were marked on. The majority of the prepared pieces fitted straight on and CA glue was used for bonding. At the bow and stern some additional shaping was required together with gentle bending with plank ‘nippers’. These photographs show the work in progress and the final results. Drifting randomly through the wide ranging posts on this site the other evening I came across many superb examples of the model makers art that reminded me of a time, back in the mid-1960s, when the ‘Birthday treat’ of choice was a trip across London to visit the Cutty Sark followed by the model ship galleries at the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. It was these amazing models, mostly ‘plank on frame’, that sparked a lifetime’s interest. Sadly these wonderfully detailed models are no longer on display although they can be examined to some extent on-line. Why am I rambling on about this? Well – one of the sections I was exploring that started this reminiscing was the HMS Triton project. WOW! My head is telling me to keep focused, the ‘Victory’ journey has a long way still to go, my heart is saying – what a challenge! The build logs, both completed models and works in progress, are very impressive. It costs nothing to start planning… the keel plans are easily down loaded,…. and there just happens to be a very helpful and friendly print shop less than a mile away ……mmmm Meanwhile, it time to start lining the gun ports.
  11. Hi Folks, I’ve finally finished planking the inner bulwarks and added the additional details I alluded to in my last post. The waterways were made from 2 x 2 mm stock walnut strip with the top corner sanded to a radius, on top of that a strip of 3 x 1mm was used for the stringer , and the beam shelf was made from 2 x 2mm stock sanded down to 2 x 1mm. All three strips were pre-painted prior to fitting and the whole lot given a second coat of yellow ochre once the glue had dried. I also did a little shaping of the deck supports with a ½” drum sander in Dremel drill before painting them white. The next challenge, and one I’ve been looking forward to, is tackling the wales. The first job was to see if the jigs I made to shape the various plank profiles would work. One length of walnut strip cuts into eleven blanks. These were stacked together and sandwiched between the sides of the jig and clamped with a hand vice. The first step was to sand one edge flat and smooth. The blanks were the flipped over and sanded to length. The hand vice was then mounted in a bench vice and a chisel was used to shave the blanks down to the final profile with a final sanding to complete the process. The three profiles, anchor stock, top and butt and simple scarf fit together well on a flat surface. I just hope they will do the same when fitted to the curved surface of the hull – time will tell!
  12. Thank you for your kind and encouraging comments, Michael and Pat. Just been reading and enjoying your 'Wasa' build log, Michael - no way is a Victory Model beyond your skill set! Superb work and detail. I'll be a regular follower of your build log now that I have found it. Cheers, Graham.
  13. Hi, A quick up-date. Having completed the planking and varnishing of the upper gun deck the mast coats have been made, shaped and added to deck. Sounds easy but those rings are so fragile and great care was needed, especially when adjusting the internal hole on the main mast coat to allow for the angle. Lining the ‘gun ports without lids’ was fairly straight forward. To cut the lining back level with the hull I used the saber saw, the Kugihiki flush saw I used for the entry ports being; a bit too big to get into some of the more awkward internal areas, and it’s currently locked up in a secure cabinet at school awaiting my return to work, hopefully in a couple of months’ time. The saber saw blade needed to have the kerf removed from either side to prevent damaging the areas surrounding the cut, and this was quickly achieved with an oil stone. Supporting the back edge of each lining element was essential to prevent splitting or tearing the wood. I achieved this with a length of ply inserted and wedged inside the gun port for the top piece, and double wedges inserted to tackle the sides. I’m a bit of a hoarder fortunately. These MDF wedges were originally used to build ‘washout’ into the wings of an electric powered glider and came close to being binned! Masking tape around the external side of the gun ports had two purposes – firstly to further protect the surfaces from damage from the saw, and secondly to ensure the edges were sawn just proud of the hull allowing these edges to be finished flush with glass paper. After a light sanding of the inside surfaces a coat of red ocher has been applied and the next task is to plank the inside bulwark patterns. Here I hope to attempt to emulate the additional details of beam shelves, stringers and waterways as shown on ‘Maestro’ Gil Middleton’s superb build log. I’ll need to stock up on some additional walnut strip but an excuse to get out of the house and drive over to the model shop in Windsor is always welcome! Cheers, Graham.
  14. Hi Folks, To continue the story with the miss-aligned inner gun ports ……. The first step was to work out how much needed to be removed from each port. To do this a length of square bar was threaded through a pair of gun ports. The gap between the bottom of the bar and the bottom of the outer gun port was then measured. It ranged from 0.5mm to 3mm, averaging around 2mm for the majority. This measurement was then marked onto the pattern and the ply sliced with a scalpel. A ‘sabre’ saw with a reverse toothed blade (cutting on the pull stroke) was used to cut the ends. The final step was to cut and glue a strip of scrap ply into place. Not pretty, but job done and work can now progress with the lining. Cheers, Graham.
  15. Hi folks, I set myself two short term goals a couple of weeks ago; to get this build log up to date by editing and uploading previous material, and to finish planking the upper gun deck including tree nailing. It was a close thing but both of these objectives were achieved. The planking and tree nails have now been refined to a smooth finish with a scraper and given the first of several coats of mat varnish. These photographs show the second planking of the hull. Unfortunately I omitted to photograph this work as it progressed. I decided to go the route of using short planks (127mm / 5”) as opposed to longer lengths and found this easier, gluing them in place (CA glue) and shaping the profile of any planks as required. Any minor gaps and imperfections were dealt with using a little wood filler. The hull has now been sanded to a good finish although I am expecting to have to give it a final going over once it’s been primed with grey primer once the wales have been completed. There’s plenty to do in between adding coats of varnish on the deck. Cannon barrels and carriages need assembling, plus preparing the various different styles of plank for each of the wales ( jigs made but not yet tested). This will keep me busy until the final coat of deck varnish has dried. Not until this is done can I tackle the problem of the miss-aligned inner gun port patterns. Note to self – read the excellent build logs produced by others more carefully! When I fitted the inner patterns they were carefully aligned horizontally. The patterns slipped so nicely into the spaces in the bulkheads, with the top edge level with the outer pattern that I assumed all was well ……WRONG! As these photos show, the inner patterns need to be dropped by almost 3mm before they can be lined. My plan is to cut out the excess from the bottom edge and then graft a new piece into the top. This will be easier than pulling the whole pattern out and re-fitting it, and the final planking will hide the evidence! Cheers for now, Graham.