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About Charter33

  • Birthday 01/21/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Berkshire, UK
  • Interests
    Model ships -especially HMS Victory (Caldercraft)
    Live steam locomotives
    R/C Aircraft
    Classic motorcycles

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  1. Ship paintings

    Superb work Jim. I love the detail and the 'atmosphere' you instill in your work. I particularly appreciate your depiction of Bucklers Hard - one of my most favorite places in the New Forest. Thank's for sharing them. Graham.
  2. Terrified

    Hi and a big welcome! I was not familiar with your choice for a first build so I've just looked it up on Google. I'm sure you will find that it will be a rewarding and satisfying project, especially with your previous modelling experience. I was in a similar position to you and convinced myself that I'd taken on a project far beyond my abilities. I then learned two essential lessons: firstly you never know what you can achieve unless you have a go, and secondly that this site is in a class of it's own when it comes to the support and guidance available. Best advice is to start your own build log - and if a challenge arises just ask. There are so many talented builders here keen to help others succeed. Good luck! Graham.
  3. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Hi, I've finished the garden gates and spent the afternoon installing them: Deadline met and the Boss (Admiral) is delighted. Time to get back to the 'shipyard' ..... Cheers, Graham.
  4. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Yes they do Carl. I played around with the idea of having them mirror each other but it just didn't look right for their intended location. Graham.
  5. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Thanks for all the compliments and 'likes' - always appreciated. Here are some pictures and details of the steam chest as requested. It was made about 10 years ago to steam beech so that it could be bent into the hoop back of a Windsor chair. I cobbled it together from galvanized steel flues and rock wool insulation liberated from a rubbish skip when the school's kitchen and boiler house were being improved. Steam comes from a wallpaper stripper which produces a steady stream for just over an hour. I top it up with a kettle full of boiling water if I want to steam for longer. The back of the chest is sealed with a steel plate (panel beating is not a strength of mine!) into which a brass screw connector has been fixed. It has BSP thread to match the hose. A simple rack slides into the inner tube to support the work piece. Ply rings maintain the concentric separation of the two tubes and the gap between them is rammed full of insulation. In use the outer tube can be safety touched without the risk of burns. When I use the chest it is closed with a simple ply cap which I seal with the inevitable gaffer (duck) tape. I set it up with a slight angle and place a plastic bin under the front to catch the hot water that trickles out during steaming. All the vertical slats have now been twisted and are currently clamped together while they stabilize and dry out to minimize further movement. They will stay like this for at least the next three weeks. My deadline for completion is mid September - still a lot to do! Cheers, Graham.
  6. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Hi, The Admiral announced that she would really like a 'feature' gate for the garden as a gift as for her forthcoming birthday, something different, something with a twist - literally ... ..no pressure then! I have spent the day steam bending 6' lengths of 4" x 1" green oak in preparation. One end clamped horizontally in a bench vice, two sash clamps for leverage, and after a 90 degree twist, the other end of the board clamped vertically in a second vice. The home-made steam chest is made from a piece of 8" galvanized flue inside a second piece of 10" flue, the gap between the two packed with rock wool insulation. Steam is generated by a wallpaper stripper. It takes an hour to steam the wood sufficiently and the chest will hold two planks at the time. As one batch becomes ready to work the previous planks are transferred to another bench where they are clamped together while they dry out. Nine done, one failure due to a grain issue, five to go - tomorrow ... I've never tried this process with this type of timber or with a cross section this big. A real sense of satisfaction when it all comes together! Cheers, Graham.
  7. Thank you , Steve, for pointing me in the right direction! Cheers, Graham
  8. When I started this topic the other day I had no idea that it would end up going in this direction. Proof once more of the value of this forum when it comes to sharing ideas and techniques. Thank you to all those who have contributed to and followed the discussion. With the resources now in place I managed to find time do a trial run :- - before and after .... After brushing and de-greasing, two 30 second immersions in the Birchwood Casey 'Brass Black', with a rinse and dry in between, I ended up with the finish shown above. This was followed by a coat of matt lacquer. I am delighted with the result to put it mildly! Cheers, Graham.
  9. Thank you for your input on this topic, Toni. The brushes I ordered are brass ones, so as not to contaminate the brass cannons, and were waiting for me at work this morning, together with the blacking solution. A quick trial with the brush shows that it actually refines and polishes the surface. I'll see if I can source the chemicals and do a trial shortly. Cheers, Graham
  10. Thanks' for the additional tips, Steve. The white vinegar is already in the workshop, the Birchwood Casey 'Brass Black' due for delivery early next week, as are the brass wire brushes for the Dremel which I hope will remove any traces of C.A. adhesive from the pivot rods (?) and the breach rings. Cheers, Graham
  11. Thanks' Hornet - found it on ebay as you suggested and an order has been placed. I'll have a go and see how it comes out. Cheers, Graham
  12. Thanks' for the info Nick. You're right - using the airbrush can be a lot of messing about. I'll act on your advice and try hand painting first. I'm enjoying your Confederacy log - keep up the great work! Cheers, Graham
  13. Hi, I'm a novice with the airbrush but am hoping to use one to apply the matt black paint to the cannons of my Caldercraft Victory. Has anyone had experience of spraying with Admiralty paints? I'm guessing that it will need to be thinned down - any suggestions as to the right mix? 20% water? 50/50? Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Graham
  14. What's happening here? clamp stains

    The jaws were made by injecting heat softened rubberized plastic into a metal female mould sometimes called a 'die'. Once the material has cooled it hardens and the die is opened so the product, in this case the jaw, can be removed. To help get this item out the inner polished surface of the die is first sprayed with a fine mist of 'releasing agent' that helps prevent the liquid plastic from sticking to the metal. It's the remnants of this spray that might have caused the discoloring of the wood.
  15. What's happening here? clamp stains

    Another thought - your clamp looks pretty new, and the jaws appear to have been injection-moulded. Another possibility could be that there is still some residue of the 'releasing agent' from this manufacturing process on the jaws. I have a feeling that the agent is silicon based, but I could be wrong. Light sanding ought to get rid of it. Good luck!