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DelF

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Everything posted by DelF

  1. Hi B.E. As I've mentioned before, I often dip into your Pegasus log for ideas and inspiration. As my own project nears completion (well, just the running rigging to go so it must be nearly done?!) I've been reminded of your display case. I'm also looking for a clear case with no obstructing frames. My own research turned up a few potential suppliers in the UK, amongst which I thought Display Cases International looked the likeliest. Before I take the plunge, would you mind sharing your supplier and your impression of their product (it certainly looks great in your photos)? Thanks Derek
  2. Great description of your shackle technique Bob. As a 'toolaholic' I've had a set of transfer punches sitting around in my workshop for years looking for a use - now I've got one. Thanks! Derek
  3. Hi Phil Thank you for taking the time for such a considered and comprehensive explanation. I really appreciate it. I’m attracted to the notion that 3D designing can be used to generate accurate 2D drawings and can reveal problems that might otherwise be missed, so I think I’m prepared to start out on the steep learning curve you mention. Looking at your distinction between CAD programs and drawing programs, I believe Fusion 360 falls into the former category so I think I’ll give it a go in the first instance - there are some good-looking YouTube videos that should get me started. Once I get past the stage of unconscious incompetence and can make meaningful comparisons I’ll certainly have a look at DesignCad 3D as well. Thanks again, and have a great Christmas and a happy New Year. Derek
  4. Hi Phil I was fascinated to find your log. The Albatros was the first 'proper' ship model I attempted, in the early 2000s. I'd previously completed a Chinese junk which was more of an ornament than a serious ship model, but at least it whetted my appetite. Although I hadn't discovered MSW back then I was dissatisfied with the basic kit and attempted a few minor modifications - for example planking the inside of the bulwarks (a plain plywood strip in my version), making proper parrels for the gaff and boom, and adding some detail to the binnacle. However these mods were based largely on my imagination and limited maritime knowledge, unlike the careful research you have done. I was particularly impressed by your approach to the pivot gun. Like you, I was also struck by the incongruity of a standard carriage mounted gun pointing straight at the foremast, but to my regret I just let it go in the hope visitors wouldn't notice. I had previously admired your 3D work on the USS Oklahoma City and wondered if such software would have any applications in regular modelling. Your work on the pivot gun answers that! Would you mind saying what package you use? I recently acquired the free version of Fusion 360 and wondered if that would be suitable. I know I would make a much better job of it now, having spent a few years admiring and learning from the MSW community, but I still like my old model of the Albatros and it is still on display. All part of the learning process. I'm sure yours will be a real gem, especially given the care and planning you are putting in to it. Thanks for posting. Derek
  5. DelF

    What have you received today?

    Hi CDW Just looked at Wingnut Wings' website, and was surprised to see the company is owned by Peter Jackson. As in Sir Peter Jackson of Lord of the Rings fame. No wonder the pictures and instructions are so good! I'm very tempted to stray from wood to plastic, at least for a short while. Derek
  6. DelF

    Quick Build

    I agree, and thanks for posting - I enjoyed watching. Please don’t think I was criticising you. I was simply surprised to see the video labelled Diresta Woodworking, when it had actually been produced by the boat builders themselves. Best wishes, Derek
  7. DelF

    Quick Build

    Good to see great boat building alive and well in the UK, although I was surprised to see the video labelled ‘Diresta Woodworking ‘ (I assume Jimmy Diresta of New York?) when in fact the video was a straight lift from the builder's own website - Fairlie Yachts. Based in Southampton, I think. To be fair, I watched the video on the YouTube app on my iPhone - maybe there was proper accreditation given on the full YouTube channel, but if so I didn’t see it. Derek
  8. DelF

    HMS Victory Model Made Of Steel

    The last post in this thread confirms that the steel Victory was by Olof Eriksen: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8835-metal-ships/ Derek
  9. DelF

    Making block

    This post from EdT's Young America log is a great tutorial on block making, showing what can be achieved with hand tools (and a great deal of skill!) https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/&do=findComment&comment=534128 Derek
  10. I live about two miles from the site of one of the more extravagant Victorian pond models. Clumber Park in Nottinghamshire is the former home of the Dukes of Newcastle. Several of these aristos were noted for their eccentricity, including the 6th Duke who bought a 32' one-third scale replica of a naval frigate called the Lincoln to float in Clumber Lake (an 87 acre artificial stretch of water created in the 18th century to enhance the estate). The 7th Duke probably spent more time playing with the frigate than his predecessor. He invited guests aboard the Lincoln to fish off the decks and help him stage mock battles. The gun battery in the Pleasure Grounds saw action at this time - armed with 26 bronze cannons they were used to fire at the Lincoln. However the frigate was not defenceless and could return fire from its own guns, engaging those on shore in combat! I've not found any record of casualty numbers, so I suspect they mainly fired blanks. You can still see the gun battery to this day, minus the artillery. The Duke employed a full time sailor to man the vessel and as late as 1911 spent £200 on new rigging and repair work. However all good things come to and end, and with the 7th Duke's death in 1928 the Lincoln fell into disrepair. According to local records, by the 1940s the Lincoln frigate found new use as a children’s playground and was ultimately destroyed thank to a group of children’s ill-advised attempt to keep warm by lighting a fire on its deck. All that remains now are the masts - recovered by a local sub-aqua club and displayed in the estate - and some of the frames that are exposed when water levels are particularly low. Derek
  11. In this context wicking refers to the ability of a liquid - in this case thin CA - to be drawn into a substance by capillary action. Just as the wick in a candle draws melted wax to be burned. Derek
  12. I've just made my first rope on my new Syren Rope Rocket and thought I'd share my experiences. First thing to say is that I was delighted with the result. I'd had a little previous experience with the more basic 'handraulic' version from Model Expo so I had some idea how to make rope, but even so I was surprised just how well my first efforts turned out. The line on the left was my first effort - three single strands of the thread Chuck supplied with the kit producing 10' of 0.67mm/0.026" rope. The one on the right has 9 strands of the same thread. You can put multiple strands on the Rope Rocket, so I tried 3 strands between each pair of hooks. Apart from a minute or two more to set up, it takes no longer to produce 9 strand than 3 strand material. The resulting rope was just over 1.2mm/0.047". A few suggested Do's & Dont's from my experience so far: Do watch Chuck's videos (on the Syren website and YouTube). They're excellent, and I learned more from them than umpteen written descriptions of rope making. Do take the time to clean off the laser char and varnish the headstock and tailstock. The cherry is a fine wood and it would be a shame not to bring out the best in it. Don't do what I did, and varnish the ropewalk after assembly. I did this, and despite my best efforts I gummed up some of the moving parts. Easily sorted, but avoidable. It would have also been much easier to varnish the parts before assembly, but I was too impatient! Also don't get varnish on the underside of the assemblies, or if you do clean it off. I've found a lot of the art of rope making lies in getting a feel for how the headstock or tailstock wants to 'walk' along the table as you spin up the ropewalk, and to do that they need to be able to slide freely. Do make sure you've got some very small hex keys (aka allen keys). I struggled to find one for the very smallest set screws. Until I eventually found one (1.3mm) I had to make do with a jeweller's screwdriver (the size used for adjusting the tiny screws in spectacles) but I wouldn't recommend that as it might distort the set screws. Do follow Chuck's advice in the instructions and use a strong epoxy or a CA with good gap filling properties to stick the eye screws into the brass tubes in the headstock. This is the only part of the construction that makes me a bit nervous, as the fit is quite loose and the eye screws come under considerable tension. I've had no problems so far, but eventually I might replace the tube/eye screw arrangement with a single length of solid brass, with one end fashioned into a hook. Incidentally, like Chuck I opened up the eye screws slightly, making it much easier to set up the thread. However unlike Chuck I opened them before fixing them in place, as I was worried that too much twisting with pliers might weaken the glue joint. Do check that everything spins freely when assembled. I found that the big central gear in the headstock tended to rub slightly against the washers under the smaller gears. This might be a result of some mistake on my part, but its something others might want to check for themselves. I found that an appropriately sized washer glued to the face of the headstock brought the big gear out just far enough to engage nicely with the small gears. Do watch Chuck's videos again! In summary, I'm delighted with the Rope Rocket and the rope it produces and would highly recommend it. I'm off now to experiment with different threads, 4-ply rope & etc. I've also got Chuck's Serv-o-Matic and am lookking forward to my first foray into serving. Derek
  13. Hi Richmond. Keith Julier wrote about three volumes of the Period Ship Handbook. Each was a compilation of articles he wrote for Model Boat magazine (if memory serves - I haven’t access to my library just now). Each article describes how he built a popular kit. The Kit Builders Manual brings together the techniques he describes in the other books. I found all the books very useful as a beginner - in fact I was inspired to buy Panart's Royal Caroline after reading the chapter on the kit. I found Julier’s style very helpful for a novice, with plenty of photos (albeit in black and white) and clear descriptions of necessary steps and potential pitfalls. I also liked the fact that he suggests minor modifications you can make to enhance the build. For example, on the Caroline he shows how you can use the kit material to make the bilge pumps more authentic. This certainly whetted my appetite for further “kit bashing”! In summary, I would certainly recommend the Kit Builders Manual as a good starting point. If you have a particular model or models in mind to build, let me know and I’ll check my copies of the other books to see if they feature. Derek
  14. This thread has prompted me to plan another visit to Greenwich, not only to the NMM but also to the adjacent Royal Observatory to see Harrison's chronometers. I was last at the NMM 13 years ago for the 200th anniversary of Trafalgar, and it was totally different to the museum others have described - full of the most interesting and well organised displays - especially the models section and of course the Nelson exhibits. Mike Y's description in an earlier post sounded much closer to my experience, and I'm glad to hear that things are apparently back the way they were. Derek
  15. Saw your message this morning, downloaded the journal, skimmed through it, liked it, and decided to join the NRG for the first time. Great stuff! Derek
  16. DelF

    What have you received today?

    I've had my eye on this for some time - saw the revised and corrected 1993 edition on ebay for a reasonable price. It's not just the most comprehensive volume on knots, it's full of witty drawings and interesting information on the history and uses of knots, including very extensive sections on nautical usage. I've only had a brief look through but I love it already! Derek
  17. Hi All I've just discovered this french polish at my local hardware store and thought I'd give it a go: I tried it neat on bare wood, and over matt varnish. In both cases it gave a beautiful silky smooth finish, although the effect was more subtle and effective when used neat, at least to my eye. Over boxwood, it seemed to impart a warm glow to the timber (beyond the capacity of my ancient iphone camera to capture adequately, I'm afraid ). My question is, before I use it in earnest on a model, is there anything I need to be aware of? For example will the french polish finish stay looking as good as it does now, or will it fade or discolour over time? Should I apply any sort of topcoat? I'd always thought french polish was a top coat, but if it needs periodic reapplication or touching up then it's not much use on models. I'd be grateful for any thoughts and experiences other folks might have. Thanks Derek
  18. I live in the UK and received my book today just over a week after placing the order - excellent service. Derek
  19. I've just had my first go with the Syren Serv-o-Matic. As with the Rope Rocket that I used for the first time last week, I cleaned off the laser char and applied a couple of coats of varnish. I really felt this was worth the trouble, to bring out the fine cherry. As with the Rocket however, I made the mistake of assembling the components before varnishing them. I was too impatient, and assembled both machines before realising it was then harder to apply the varnish - especially without gumming up the moving parts. I should have followed Chuck's instructions, which as usual are comprehensive and well illustrated. A couple of points I would emphasise from my own experience. First, it really is vital to ensure all the gears move freely - to the extent that they almost feel loose and sloppy. If you watch Chuck's short Youtube video you'll get an idea of how everything should move, powered by just one finger. Another point Chuck makes in the instructions that I would echo is the importance of getting the right tension in the rope being served - too loose and it is difficult to get the serving thread to lay on properly; too taut and the rope will pull the handles in to the machine ends and make the gears too stiff to turn freely. I quickly found there is a knack to serving. It's not super difficult, but it does need practice. I experimented on a piece of light coloured rope for contrast, which tends to highlight the mistakes. I'm not sure how easy it is to see in the picture, but the serving starts out a bit gappy and lumpy on the lefthand side, then gets better towards the right as my technique improved. Also, I should have used a less 'hairy' serving thread. Being hand powered, it's a simple matter to put mistakes right; as soon as you see a gap, or you overlap the serving thread, you just reverse direction to before the error and then continue. In summary, another useful addition to the workshop which I'm looking forward to using in conjunction with the Rope Rocket. Derek
  20. DelF

    Syren Serv-o-Matic

    Following on from Jim's idea above, I tried the following method for producing a length of served line with an eye at each end: One piece of dowel is a tight fit in the RH gear and the other is a sliding fit in the left gear. In this crude but effective first go, the LH dowel is kept in place at the desired position by a combination of a rubber sleeve and a small clip. You simply wind a piece of line between the hooks - as many times as needed to give the right final size - then serve as normal. Here's the result: As you can see, I messed up one of the eyes (my eyes let me down and I trimmed the wrong threads!) but as the eyes are hidden under the bowsprit I let that one go. Just shows how versatile the Serv-o-matic is. Derek
  21. DelF

    Power versus Hand Tools?

    My first model was made entirely with the use of hand tools, and I'm sure if I'd carried on like that I'd have continued to enjoy the hobby. However I've always believed (to misquote Robert Louis Stevenson) that the journey is at least as important as the destination. Over the last 10 years or so that I've been ship modelling I've really enjoyed learning new skills and techniques, and getting to grips with new hand and power tools. On occasion I've had to justify the cost of a new machine by convincing the family finance watchdog that it would come in handy round the house. To my surprise, that has actually proven true on a significant number of occasions - for example turning up replacement parts for showers and garage door mechanisms on my lathe and mill (Chuck's Rope Rocket and Serv-o-matic were harder to justify on those grounds, but fortunately much less expensive!). Each to his and her own though - you only need to look through this forum to appreciate that there is no 'best' way to create great models. Derek
  22. Oops! Apologies for my presumption. It’s probably surprising that any of us obsessive hobbyists actually have partners that are prepared to put up with us. Derek
  23. Brilliant! Has the Admiral noticed you’ve commandeered her ironing table, amongst other things?!
  24. DelF

    UK Timber Suppliers

    I can vouch for the quality of the boxwood supplied by Workshop Heaven. I bought a small billet some time ago (cost £8.90 incl. p&p) and it's the real deal - genuine close-grained boxwood. I've found that a small amount goes a long way, although to be fair I tend to use it for small fittings rather than for larger stuff such as spars and frames. I've still got some of the billet left: It's probably worth reminding folk that antique boxwood rules still appear regularly on ebay for as little as £3 to £4 including postage. I've bought several over the years, finding them great for blocks. This cost just £4: It's surprising how many blocks you can get from a 2' folding rule. Derek

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