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About JohnB40

  • Birthday 08/21/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oregon Coast
  • Interests
    Hiking and ship modeling

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  1. I started to use artists acrylic paints in tubes after reading reviews on the forum. I have found them a lot easier to use and when thinned and applied with multiple coats give the best finish for brush applications. I had problems with coverage at first,but a nice knowledgeable lady in our local artist supply store set me straight. There are two types of this paint...Transparent and opaque. I hadn't a clue about this,but it is on the tubes for all to see. The type to use is the opaque one. She also recommended using M Graham & Co paints (or other quality premium paints),which is what artists use for painting on wooden panels. For priming I tried thinned gesso,but found it obscured detail and was a pain to sand. I settled on thinned wax free shellac,thinned 50/50 with 99% isopropyl alcohol,but I'm sure Tamiya primer will work as well.
  2. Surprisingly good tweezers...

    I got mine today....Thank you
  3. I have also had this happen to me. The first time,it was completely my error by hitting the delete button. I assumed when I did this that I was just deleting the post I was writing and not the whole log. Luckily for me, Chuck and Dirk were able to retrieve it for me. The second time this happened, while I was on the forum reading and adding to other member posts, I had not been to my build site. I had been fairing the Confederacy and had nothing to add to my log during this process. When I eventually went to do some updates to my log, it was gone......I had no interaction with the log in anyway when this happened. Unfortunately, by the time I realized it was missing it was too late to be retrieved. So my concern is that the problem is a little deeper than careless operation. I haven't decided to reconstruct my log yet because of this issue.
  4. I'll post the pictures again. It has not been a good digital day.
  5. Yes you can indeed......I am really chuffed with the way it works. I can use a fair bit of force and it keeps sanding away without problems. The long neck and small head can get into some really small places with ease. I have been using these Oral B brushes for years on my teeth.they are powerful,last a long time per charge and go on for years. I wish I could use it to sand away those extra pictures that are not supposed to be there,as I can't edit them away
  6. Greetings to all, I have been doing a lot of sanding lately fairing the hull and constructing the stern on the Confederacy. For fine details like the lintels and sills on the windows I thought a detail sander would be a help. Besides the expensive prices,I found MicroMarks on back order and Proxxon's PS 13 to have quite a few bad reviews. Whilst looking on line I found the idea on U tube of using a n electric toothbrush. On my next trip shopping I found an Oral B rechargable one for $10 and decided to give it a try. What else was needed was some double sided tape,sandpaper and gasket making punch kit. I used a smaller headed brush my wife had than the one that came with the unit although that one would work fine,it is just a bit larger .Then removed the bristles with pliers I used the 7/16" punch from the gasket making kit I punched out some some tape and sandpaper discs. Mount the double sided tape to the head ....mount sandpaper disc to tape and detail sand away. It works surprising well
  7. Terrified

    Welcome to the forum dooder85. My first plank on bulkhead model was the Swift. It is a nice kit and makes a very nice finished model........I think it is a really good choice for an initial build.
  8. For some reason I couldn't edit my previous post to add.. I would use 0000 grade steel wool instead of 1500 grit paper to prep non flat items such cannons
  9. Greetings all, I messed about with the preparation and application of B.C. Brass Black for a while on one of my builds and finally found a way to get good results with it.
  10. I have had one for a few years now and find it works well for modeling purposes. You can also use it as a stand to hold the Dremel when using the flex shaft attachment. I use the 4486 keyless chuck with mine.
  11. Hi to all, Decided to join the 'Wagoneers' over here on shore leave after seeing Dan's and the other wagon builds in progress. I needed a break from the Unicorn for a while and wanted to try my hand at something different. I chose the Chuck Wagon partly because I live on a cattle ranch and partly for nostalgia from old films. I really like the Kit,instructions,and the plans. All the parts with exception the ply sheet used for the wheel rims are first class. The ply is kind of rough with splintering and gouges on top and bottom surfaces,which I don't think can be rescued with filler. I will send an email to John at Model expo to see if replacements can be sent.
  12. Hello to all, I have decided to paint the wales on my Unicorn build matt black They look odd being natural walnut as is the rest of the hull,with black upper works. I have given the hull a coat of WOP (non acrylic) about a year ago to seal it (painfully slow build progress). I never have much luck brushing on acrylics,so I bought some Billings Boats enamel paint and thinners. I have lightly sanded the wales with #400 and would appreciate any hints about painting over WOP. Will enamel adhere to this finish ok in the long term? I plan to thin the enamel and multi coat. Any suggestions paint to thinners ratio? I will be using Tamiya masking tape to mask the wales. Is there is a better tape to use to prevent bleeding under the tape even with burnishing? A lot questions I know,but I have been staring at this for a while and can't seem to get on with it for fear of making a mess.....Thanks for any tips.

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