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JohnB40

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About JohnB40

  • Birthday 08/21/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon Coast
  • Interests
    Hiking and ship modeling

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  1. I started to use artists acrylic paints in tubes after reading reviews on the forum. I have found them a lot easier to use and when thinned and applied with multiple coats give the best finish for brush applications. I had problems with coverage at first,but a nice knowledgeable lady in our local artist supply store set me straight. There are two types of this paint...Transparent and opaque. I hadn't a clue about this,but it is on the tubes for all to see. The type to use is the opaque one. She also recommended using M Graham & Co paints (or other quality premium paints),which is what artists use for painting on wooden panels. For priming I tried thinned gesso,but found it obscured detail and was a pain to sand. I settled on thinned wax free shellac,thinned 50/50 with 99% isopropyl alcohol,but I'm sure Tamiya primer will work as well.
  2. Today I started on gun port framing. I had previously checked the laser marked guidelines on the bulkheads against the plans to verify. All checked out OK. I used a strip of 1/16 x 1/8 x 36 balsa to align the bulkhead marks,check the run of the sills and mark the outboard face of the bulkheads. I found it was easier to use balsa as it formed a curve better than basswood.The sills were trimmed to the correct length and marked in sequence from the aft forward. The false deck was also numbered at their corresponding place between the bulkheads. When I started to lay the sills,I found it hard to establish when the sills were level as the curve of the deck and bulkhead were confusing my trifocal eyes. The only way I could see overcoming this was to make sure my building bench was perfectly level. I then made sure the ship was level in its building jig. I used a couple of small levels on the beakhead deck and other points to check this. I shimmed the upright supports of my jig to get it spot on and then clamped them. I then aligned each sill with the bulkhead marks,used a 2" level to lay each sill in place. Each was leveled and aligned as I went forward. I can now use spacers to put the lintels in place and know and they are laying parallel and level to each other. As an additional check I made a small gauge from thin brass with a mark scribed at 1" which I could fit between the slot in the false deck and the bulkhead and double check the position of top of the sills. I will start on the lintels tomorrow.....
  3. JohnB40

    Surprisingly good tweezers...

    I got mine today....Thank you
  4. The next task was to lay the four sections of false decking. I spent quite some time aligning the sections,making sure the joints were as tight as possible and the center joints were true to the center line of the bulkhead former. I used clamps on the outboard side and 1/32" brass brads down the center line,which were removed and holes filled after PVA had set The beakhead deck was planked,a #2 pencil used to create caulking. The beakhead bulkhead was planked on both sides. After looking at this part of the construction I decided to add some details like the doors ,hinges,frames and doorknobs. I thought it would be better done now owing to the small parts and easier access The inboard side was painted and hinges and doorknobs added. I couldn't decide whether to frame these doors...I might go back and do them. It took me a long time to decide on the interior bulkhead paint color. I chose an ochre acrylic artist paint in the end. I think this is more realistic color for the period after looking at many models on the NMM website. From what I read ochre pigments (from mustard yellow to brick red) were mixed with linseed oil to paint period ships. Bright red pigments for paint were not formulated until the late 1800's. I will be using Dulcote to matte down the paint.
  5. Greetings to all, I have decided to restart my build log for my present project.... Model Shipways USF Confederacy. My 2 previous attempts disappeared from the forum without a trace and I'm hoping that 3rd time is a charm. I won't go back to square one,but will continue on from the last point I was at,which was completion of the stem,keel,false decks and bulkhead formers. The only thing I can add to this part of the build that might be useful to others was the use of AARP cards to keep a uniform distance between the exposed frames while glue sets. 870 kb · Done The bulkheads were then faired and a start was made on the stern framingand followed by fitting the rear lights sills and lintels. These were faired to the curve of the transom. The final fairing of Bulkheads 7 & 8 was finished too . The large and small aft facing ports framing was added and faired to follow the curve of the counter.
  6. Looks very nice Gary. You have been making great progress with the build. I'm just about to fit the battens to frame the gun ports. So at my present pace,I should be where you are about this time next year!
  7. Looking good Gary,starting to look like a frigate. Nice progress on the construction. I'm still messing around with stern,just a bit more filling and fairing to go. Seems like I have been at this for quite some time.
  8. My condolences for your brother, Gary. I hope your family can still have a fine thanksgiving,even under the present sad circumstances.
  9. My condolences for your brother, Gary. I hope your family can still have a fine thanksgiving,even under the present sad circumstances.
  10. I have also had this happen to me. The first time,it was completely my error by hitting the delete button. I assumed when I did this that I was just deleting the post I was writing and not the whole log. Luckily for me, Chuck and Dirk were able to retrieve it for me. The second time this happened, while I was on the forum reading and adding to other member posts, I had not been to my build site. I had been fairing the Confederacy and had nothing to add to my log during this process. When I eventually went to do some updates to my log, it was gone......I had no interaction with the log in anyway when this happened. Unfortunately, by the time I realized it was missing it was too late to be retrieved. So my concern is that the problem is a little deeper than careless operation. I haven't decided to reconstruct my log yet because of this issue.
  11. I'll post the pictures again. It has not been a good digital day.
  12. Yes you can indeed......I am really chuffed with the way it works. I can use a fair bit of force and it keeps sanding away without problems. The long neck and small head can get into some really small places with ease. I have been using these Oral B brushes for years on my teeth.they are powerful,last a long time per charge and go on for years. I wish I could use it to sand away those extra pictures that are not supposed to be there,as I can't edit them away
  13. Greetings to all, I have been doing a lot of sanding lately fairing the hull and constructing the stern on the Confederacy. For fine details like the lintels and sills on the windows I thought a detail sander would be a help. Besides the expensive prices,I found MicroMarks on back order and Proxxon's PS 13 to have quite a few bad reviews. Whilst looking on line I found the idea on U tube of using a n electric toothbrush. On my next trip shopping I found an Oral B rechargable one for $10 and decided to give it a try. What else was needed was some double sided tape,sandpaper and gasket making punch kit. I used a smaller headed brush my wife had than the one that came with the unit although that one would work fine,it is just a bit larger .Then removed the bristles with pliers I used the 7/16" punch from the gasket making kit I punched out some some tape and sandpaper discs. Mount the double sided tape to the head ....mount sandpaper disc to tape and detail sand away. It works surprising well
  14. I agree with Mark,sand down and fill in the gaps in the deck. It has been a long time since I built the Swift.... If I remember correctly the hull is double planked. The first basswood layer makes it easier to rectify mistakes,once again filling and sanding to make a good shape and surface to glue the outer layer of veneer to. Take your time and don't get discouraged over mistakes. When you are done they won't be noticed.... It will be the over all look of the whole model your eyes take in. You will have learned a lot of how-to knowledge in the process.
  15. JohnB40

    Terrified

    Welcome to the forum dooder85. My first plank on bulkhead model was the Swift. It is a nice kit and makes a very nice finished model........I think it is a really good choice for an initial build.

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