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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Finds keep turning up! Thanks for this, Mark.
  2. I agree with Greg, Kevin: the port side outer timber appears to be (in the photo at least) too vertical. This throws the spacing of the inner timbers and will affect the stern gallery lights. Best check this before you commit to further construction.
  3. Perhaps this style of wheel was never actually used! The model was, after all, only a proposed one.
  4. A curved spoke would provide a little more shock absorption over rough ground.
  5. Thank you for clarifying the early date for reef points, Steven. Why then, I wonder, were bonnets in use until so much later?
  6. Reef points back then? I thought that this was a later invention and that a bonnet or bonnets were used.
  7. I had coffee with a friend for the first time since covid this morning. He quoted from a T.S. Eliot poem that I thought was perfect for you: Bowsprit cracked with ice and paint cracked with heat. I made this, I have forgotten And remember. The rigging weak and the canvas rotten Between one June and another September. Made this unknowing, half conscious, unknown, my own. The garboard strake leaks, the seams need caulking. The poem is called, appropriately, Marina.
  8. Just as well. It would probably have sat here as well, giving me guilt as well as stress! There's more than enough on my plate....
  9. Makes more sense to have a protective metal sheet where swivels mount, rather than under deadeye straps where the forces up and down are balanced out.
  10. I understand that conserving the wreck will take years.
  11. My understanding is that plate along the side to prevent wear was a single strip, not separate plates. Also, it was on the inner timber with square holes for swivel guns, not the outer strip slotted for the shroud plates. (See Steel, Plate 5. Volume I, Rigging and Seamanship.)
  12. Excellent find! This will help us understand early transitional building techniques better. Thanks for posting.
  13. The method that works for me is to make the cutter profile in a softened piece of hacksaw blade. As you discovered, you can't do undercuts, so any angle on the molding needs to be shaped afterwards, but is usually not necessary except for entry steps. I pre-cut strips the width and maximum depth plus a whisker of the molding to be cut. I then either rubber cement (larger strips) or white glue (smaller ones) to a flat, hard surface. This will act as the depth stop. Cut until the cutter rides along the base surface and you have a nice, even molding. The trick is not to use too much downward pressure on each pass. Many light cuts are better and there is less chance of the cutter digging in. Your method is far more sophisticated!
  14. I doubt if a boat was on board. Hoisting it in and out would be problematic with only one yard to suspend anything from! If anything, it would be towed.
  15. Usually scarph lengths were three times the width of the plank. Generally speaking, the direction was such that the wood that planks (or framing elements) were being cut from were as long as possible with minimum waste. So, on a curved piece, the tip of the scarph would usually be to the concave side.
  16. Your theory that the eyebolts were for hoisting the capstan for repair or maintenance seems a reasonable one.
  17. Stretch the SilkSpan on a frame and paint it with dilute acrylic first. The number of coats will control the degree of transparency or opacity.
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