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john_wilmer

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Everything posted by john_wilmer

  1. I always liked that series of books. During my married years my wife once called me at work and asked "How do I turn on your table saw?" Scariest thing I ever heard! Your guitar build was an interesting read. I learned my formal woodworking skills by "helping" a friend in his professional shop, similar to your situation with your luthier friend. -John
  2. Table Saw Basics, by Roger Cliffe. A whopping $1.25 used on Amazon. Although the Byrnes saw is smaller, it is the same tool as a full size table saw. Buy the book and learn a ton about a tool that can remove a finger if not handled correctly. BTW, I worked in a woodshop where the saws were set up with the fence to the left of the blades. I am right handed and it was awkward at first, but the saws were high quality and set up well, so the fence side didn't affect the cut. At home my fence is to the right of the blade, where, in my opinion, they should be. The comments above about blade choice and setting the fence properly are right on the mark. Buy that book and it will give you even more info that will make that great saw you have cut to its fullest potential. Enjoy!! -John
  3. What have you received today?

    Thank you for the likes and comments! CDW: I have a cigar box full of that hardware, but have been saving that for my own box project one day. Bill: It is definitely my Grandfather's. I carried it out of his basement when I was a teenager. It was passed from my Uncle to his sons and back. So now I have it. That's his name on the nameplate and it even has his Pattern Makers' League membership card in a drawer. (Dues were $3.33 a month in 1950) I don't think there is any actual historical value to the box, just family value. (I'm guessing just like your Granpa's axe). Still, I'll sit and ponder things for a while. This box has a sister toolbox, which went to my Mother. It is maple, and has always been kept in the house, and has faired much better over the years. Its not as large or fancy, but is also a wonderful piece of craftsmanship. I think the true value will be when I reach into a drawer, pull out a tool, and shape a piece of wood for a ship, just as my Grandfather did. Its the connection to family long gone that makes me proud to have this. -John
  4. What have you received today?

    I just brought home my Grandfather's toolbox. It spent its professional career at the Philadelphia Naval Ship Yard, where he worked as a pattern maker. For the last 40 years it has lived in several basements of family members, and now will be used, once again, for shipbuilding. (Although smaller scale ships this time around.) The wood is mahogany, it was made by my Grandfather, and it is in need of restoration. I'll leave it alone for a while to acclimate, then see what can be done.
  5. New member

    Welcome to MSW! Sorry, can't help with your question, but good to have you here.
  6. New to the forum

    Hello Doc! Welcome! Lots of great people here. From where in PA? -John
  7. Sorry, I wasn't very clear. Andi, the comments about the brass blade guides and other similar models from other manufacturers was about the axminster saw in your link. Search for other band saws of this same size and see what comes up. Look for the small differences between the brands, such as the type of blade guides. There are several brands which are all made in the same factory. Mike, my comments on the brass blade guide was not about the microlux saw. Mine has full bearing guides like you described. I agree with all of your observations on this saw. But I do have that one extra issue on mine. -John
  8. Looks like the side blade guides are round brass. This is not a horrible design, but rarely seen on modern saws. You have to be very careful that you always have the rear thrust bearing set properly, so that the teeth of the blade do not touch the side guides. They can chew them up. Also, if you use small blades the round shape allows only a small amount of the "circle" to contact the blade on the sides. This saw is sold in many incarnations from other companies. There must be 5 versions available here in the states. Each one has some slight difference from the others. Look around and see if the same basic saw is available with a different blade guide system. I own the Microlux band saw. It seems to be the same saw as the proxxon. I also have screaming bearings, which I think Mike addressed well. I have an issue where the upper blade guide arm moves up and down in a different plane than the blade tracks. This is not a tuning issue. The blade tracks perpendicular to the table, the guide arm does not. That means when the arm is up for thicker material the guides must be re adjusted, which is a pain. Mike, do you have this issue? -John
  9. Congratulations on 50 years!! The models look great. Especially the United States and Olympia, two ships I drive past often. Sadly, the models are looking quite a bit better than the actual ships these days. Sigh.
  10. I know we all see a lot of holly used. Nice and white. I've never seen an actual deck on a ship look anything even close to that, though. I have a branch from high up on a holly tree, and it has a really nice greyish-tan to light brown color. Still that fine grain, but the color is more similar to aged oak or weathered teak. Might be my choice on a future build. -John
  11. Cotton bales aboard HMS Bounty?

    I was referring to the connection to slavery in my comment. This voyage was a possible solution to the question of how to spend even less feeding slaves. But history is filled with practical solutions to bad ideas, and the Bounty is an amazing story. (No less amazing is the fate of the 1960 Bounty reproduction. Sunk by Hurricane Sandy, with some of the most dramatic rescue photos that can be believed.)
  12. Cotton bales aboard HMS Bounty?

    So why did Bligh (or rather, England) want breadfruit anyway? History certainly is more interesting than it is pretty.
  13. Help with Model Shipways kit choice

    If you go to the Syren page on Model Expo's site, you can see the instructions written by Chuck under the "Documents" tab, and read through them for yourself. They are superior to most other instructions out there. If you start a build log on this site, the combination of excellent instructions and the actual kit designer's oversight will give you a huge boost on tackling a higher skill level build. Sorry if I seem partial!! -John
  14. Woodcarving Makes Guinness World Record

    So all this time I could have been just carving my ship models from one block of wood? Why didn't I think of that before? -John
  15. table saw

    Michael101, I have a full size table saw, a 10" Delta Unisaw. I have tried using a veneer saw blade with the highest tooth count I can find, but it is still very oversized for our hobby. Thin strips are difficult to cut, due to the diameter and thickness of the blade. The larger kerf of the cut is also wasteful, given the cost of the materials we use. Keep in mind that my saw is one of the most precise and vibration-free saws available, and most "contractor-types", like those sold in the home centers here in the States, would be even more of a problem. I bought my saw for full size work (custom furniture), and love it for that. In my opinion, it is not the saw to use for our hobby. -John
  16. Need some help on identification of some wood.

    I agree with Larry, Buck is pretty on the money. The piece of cherry has what we call a light figure to the grain. Given the lean to the cathedral, (the arc part of the grain), its from a curved portion of the tree, and might not appear to match the color of the more straight grained parts of other wood you report as being the same. This is normal. Take care of the moisture content of the wood. Wood that has taken on an old basement smell has taken on the old basement dampness. It will dry out as you remove it, and might be prone to some checking, end splits, etc. Read up online about this. (how to air dry lumber) Enjoy your find!! -John
  17. OK, soooooo.......How about we get back on topic? I received my first kit, a AL Independence, as a gift. Did the bulkheads, decking seemed straightforward enough, kinda understood the idea of fairing the bulkheads, but then I was faced with planking. And that's where it sat. And sat. I put it away for nearly 10 years. So I guess that's why it was unfinished. But check out used kits and see how many are "missing" the bulkheads and decking. More than likely other people also get stuck at that same spot. I did eventually pull out the Independence and finish it, scratching my head all the way through it. But when I finished it I caught the bug. I bought a small kit and finished that. Then I started the Mamoli Beagle, found this sight, and, to be honest, don't think I will ever finish it. The kit is an abomination!! I thought I would use it as a learning tool, you know, try treenailing the decking, making my own rope, etc. But I think I will simply start with a new kit that is more worthy of my newfound knowledge. I don't think my experience with this hobby is unique. So there you are, unfinished kits....explained. -John
  18. New Member from New Jersey

    Welcome!! The Ship Model Society of New Jersey is a very active club with many members on this sight. (Me, for example) Check out the club's website and consider a visit.
  19. Don't forget that the job of the thrust bearing is only to keep the blade in place while the wood is pressing into it (creating a "thrust"). Ideally, the wheels are aligned true to each other and the blade tracks properly without the trust bearings holding it in place. If you run this test with the thrust bearings set open and back from the blade, the blade should track in one position on its own. (try turning the wheel by hand here, without power connected.) If the blade will not track properly without the trust bearings holding it in place, realign the wheels, or suffer wobble, vibrations, worn thrust bearings and rough cuts. Remember, the thrust bearings only gently cradle the blade to keep it from deflecting during a cut. -John
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