bundybear1981

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About bundybear1981

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  1. You can also buy candle LEDs, they have a chip in the LED that makes them flicker. I've seen them in red and yellow. Check on ebay
  2. This is my rotary drill in the drill press the I used to taper the planks before laying them. It is currently fitted with a sanding disc, this made the shaping of planks fast, easy and accurate. Next the tapered planks were fitting to the hull,working toward the temporary plank. As I worked toward the centre the clamps became less practical, having planks only glued to each other and not the frame it was much slower so I reverted to map pins to allow more planks to be laid at a time, running a thin bead of glue on the faces of the planks being joined each time. To help with shaping and holding the planks together while the glue dried I got out my forceps clamps and applied light pressure on the planks. Once all the planks are in place I trimmed the overhang planks flush with the transom then any gaps filled with wood filler, holes and marks. This was followed by sanding the planks smooth, removing excess filler and giving a good surface ready for the next stage. After I was satisfied with the sanding job the next step was to fit the washboards strip. This was 2mm laser cut ply. It needed to be shaped to follow the curve of the bow. Using a hand held plank bending tool (incidentally the same tool as in the diagram provided with the model) was quite difficult. The laser marks for the oar locks cut-outs gave significant weak points while the ply sheet itself was very hard. It took several attempts to get the shape right, many times re-shaping previously crimped marks. I would use another method to shape it should I re-visit this build in the future. (as a scratch build) As a side note the picture showing this process must have been from an earlier version as it wasn't laser cut ply but rather a standard plank marked and shaped. This was then glued to the 1st plank run that was done. I used a combination of pins and rubber bands to hold it in place to dry overnight.
  3. Today I started to run the first set of planks. Firstly the bulkheads 1 through 9 are taped to prevent the glue and planks from binding to it (as mentioned earlier they will be removed later to give the hull its internal shape) The bow was too sharp an angle with too little timber for the clamps to grip so a map pin was pushed through. The bow and stern are glued in place. The next step was to calculate the taper on the 1st run of planks, these run from the first plank 45mm up the bulkhead where the 2nd run begins. After the angle was calculated the boards were marked for tapering, bundled into groups of 5 planks and sanded on the rotary drill.
  4. Hi Pat Another idea for you - have you tried the large hose clamps with blocks? The clamps would allow more pressure to be applied to the model. Bunnings has ones up to a 152mm diameter but I'd say if you go to a rural supply store / stockfeeds or a plumbing store they would have bigger yet again (think irrigation size!)
  5. Hi Pat, Just to give an idea how small they were, here is the run from last night. The smallest suits a M1 bolt, largest a M3 bolt. Definitely not robust enough. Worth a try thou!
  6. I'm not sure how strong they would be getting that small, once you go under 1mm thick the strength drops a lot... Something that small I'd be looking at pins and rubber bands. In regards to the screw I thought about printing one but don't know if the printer would be able to give a decent thread (resolution of the printer) with enough strength to get pressure on the bulkhead. The end user printers have a few limitations with what can be achieved. My printer is currently fitted with a 0.4mm print nozzle which is about the minimum thickness for most lines/textures. I'll run a job on the printer tonight with M1, M2 and M3 size bolts and see how they come out, with pictures posted tomorrow.
  7. I could do a design for a smaller size. The current version takes a M4 (4mm thread) bolt and is 47.5mm long, 20.5mm wide in the mid section (25.25 on the head cube), tapered to 9.25mm on the tip of the jaws. How small were you looking at?
  8. Both the bow blocks shaped ready to be fitted to the keel. The bow blocks are then glued on to the keel Now to wait for the glue to dry before I do the fairing on the frames.
  9. Good day all! After an extended hiatus I'm back in the shipyard! Today I received my next project, the longboat from HMS Sirius, one of the first fleet ships. The box in which she came! Next is the contents of the kit spread out. First step was to lay out the frames and put the keel in place. The frames aren't glued to the baseboard so once planked it can be removed from the internals of the longboat, it is there to provide the framework to build on to. The transom is glued on to the keel however. Next was to shape the bow blocks with a 45 degree bevel. To do this I used my rotary tool in the Dremel drill press with a sanding disc on it. It made the job faster, easier and did a great job!
  10. Hi Gregory, I have temporarily place a plank in place to demonstrate how they work (this is my new build, not up to actually planking yet) If you have any further questions please ask As shown the clamps grip the bulkheads and hold the planks firmly in place so the glue can dry.
  11. I thnik the easier way to spray them would be to get a piece of cardboard / form and push pins (used for sewing) through it then push the deadeyes / blocks on the pins. Paint then flip them over to get the other side. Hope this helps!
  12. Hi Ron, I have sent you the file to you inbox. thanks Jason For everyone else I've now uploaded it to this feed (its a fairly small file, 202kb) Cheers Jason MicoClamp.stl
  13. Hi all, Over the last few days I have been designing and printing a clamp to better hold down the planks for the glue to set. They cost me about AUD$0.60 each to make (print cost of ABS and cost of nut&bolt) with the print taking about 2 1/2 hours per clip. They allow more pressure to be applied then some other methods (such as bulldog clips and pegs) making them suitable where some pressure is needed, and being plastic with largish contact surface on the plank (4mm either side of the surface) will leave minimal to no marking on the planks! Below are images of the clamps in SketchUp and on some scrap to show how they work. If anyone wants the STL file I'm happy to provide it to them! The bolts are a M4 35mm with a hex head and a M4 nut.
  14. Hi phiSuter Sorry, I have been away from the forum for a period (and changed emails, hence didnt get any notifications) How are you going with your build? If you have and questions please send a message and I'll help where I can! Cheers Jason
  15. Absolutely beautiful work! She is looking amazing