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gil middleton

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Everything posted by gil middleton

  1. gil middleton
    Jerry, I remember you and your Victory well. I believe we exchanged a few ideas along the way. Cheers, Gil
  2. gil middleton
    Patrick, Many thanks for your kind remarks. In 1999, my wife and I took our boat from Seattle through the Panama Canal, up the east coast, through the Erie Canal, Great Lakes, Caribbean, South America and back to Seattle over three years. St. Michael was one of our very favorite places. Had I known you were there, I would have looked you up. However, modelling became serious after our return. I've discovered that we have modelling friends in almost every town in the country and then some. One of the delightful unintended consequences of ship modelling. Warm regards, Gil Middleton
  3. gil middleton
    Tom, Thanks so much for your kind remarks. I was surprised since it has been around nine years since I finished the model of HMS Victory. At 88, my modelling days are over since we haven't the space for a dedicated room to work in, although I did a smaller scale of a Dragon class sail boat. I've always felt the Dragon had the most beautiful lines. What I enjoyed most with the Victory was researching the original rigging through numerous sources. Perhaps you already have it but I found a reprint of "The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship" by David Steel written in 1794, by Ecco printing. It gave the details of nearly every line, splice and hitch aboard a ship of the line in the Royal Navy. An example, the 27" circumference (about 9" diameter) of the Anchor rode. I think I found it through Amazon. Needless to say, the kit did not supply lines of proper scale. I became a regular at the fabric store sourcing thread to match the scale of the original. Again, many thanks. It's nice to know the model is of interest to others and may be of help to those who haven't been to sea. Warm regards, Gil Middleton
  4. gil middleton
    Spider, So very nice to hear from you. Your "Victory" is coming along beautifully, getting better at each step. You are rather unusual. Most ship modelers love the work on the hull but are indifferent towards the rigging. You and I seem to think that the rigging is the best part. However, based on your knot/rope board, you could teach me a lot about marlinspike. Good luck with your build. I hope my model helps or inspires you to come up with a better rigging plan. Warm regards, Gil Kevin, Hearing from old modelling friends makes my day. I'll go back and get caught up on the "Victorys" in progress. Jerry, Glad to hear that you're alive and still kicking. Hard to keep those old geezers down. Floyd, I've missed the PSSM meetings. It's been a year of recovery following surgery in the neck to repair a nerve injury, with loss of strength in the left arm (left handed). Now back to about 80%. You are always so kind in your observations. I haven't started another major project because I'd probably miss seeing the end result Perhaps more small sailboats, skiffs or racing shells are in order. I'll think about it while cruising the Gulf Islands this summer. Cheers, Gil
  5. gil middleton
    Many thanks Art, but you're way ahead of me. I built my first model at age 70 and have been learning ever since. You're day sailor is a gem. As you have already discovered, there is endless encouragement and friendly advice on this forum for any ship build. Another benefit is I've made many friends whom I've never met. And perhaps the most important advice, enjoy the ride. Cheers, Gil
  6. gil middleton
    John and Per, Thanks for your comments. I think we all agree that Dragons are a special breed. Popeye, Thanks, and my apologies for not photographing from above the mast. At my age, one isn't supposed to climb ladders. The next project? One that doesn't require ladders. Kevin, I looked at your Bismark and ended up reading the entire log. Beautiful work. To take on a project that large, we'd have to remodel our condo, which would make for a very expensive model. Cheers, Gil
  7. gil middleton
    Thus ends a fun little project. Just as enjoyable as a much larger build and good therapy during recovery. As in real boating, there is as much satisfaction in harbor hopping in a small boat as an ocean passage. It keeps the dreams alive anticipating the next voyage or the next model. In my mind, the Dragon is still one of the most beautiful boats ever designed, and now I've had the pleasure of working on one. Cheers, Gil
  8. gil middleton
    Just a few more photos of the details. The base for the jam cleat on the main traveler. Main sheet traveler. Jam c;eats. Jam cleats close up. Boom vang (to hold the boom down and shape the main sail when on a reach or down wind) Main outhaul Jib sheets and halyard. Self tailing winch with jib sheet and close up
  9. gil middleton
    Thanks Kevin and Popeye. Kevin, I'm not sure what is on the horizon. I may wait a bit to see what recovery occurs. Glad I hadn't started another "Victory" size project, which you would understand better than most. Popeye, I am no expert on rod rigging, but apparently there is slightly less wind drag compared to multi-strand wire. The rod is held by a "rod head" (a cap on the rod to prevent it from pulling out of a fitting) or a dimple from the fitting into the rod. The top end is fixed to the mast while to bottom end passes through the deck to a turnbuckle below deck for adjustment. Above the spreaders, a turnbuckle is exposed. Needless to say, rod rigging requires significant specialized equipment including a press. A bit different than when we used to splice our own wire rigging. On the model, I used 24g "German" wire, a soft flexible wire. Below deck, the wire was simply attached to a beam, while at the mast I tried soldering. The soldering didn't hold so I drilled through the mast and twisted the wire to create a button, adding C/A glue, or took a turn around a fitting. On the aft deck where there was no access, I rigged the wire to pass through the hole and then flair out to prevent it from pulling back. Again, more than one wants to know. Overall I think it was worth the bother since other models of Dragons I've seen were either hull only or rigged with thread which didn't look authentic. Details, details. Cheers, Gil
  10. gil middleton

      Previous builds: Cutty Sark,  USS Constitution, HMS Victory

  11. gil middleton
    Floyd and Per, It was an exceptional meeting. How many model clubs have a launching party with a concert violinist as the main attraction? Shelley was amazing and greatly appreciated. The current mini-project is down to the final details. It is hoped that the reader will be tolerant of the rough finish. A neck injury has rendered the left arm (left handed) as nearly useless. In time I may be able to upgrade the details. Frank, I enjoyed looking at your build and was amazed at the metal finish you achieved using aluminum scraps, 1000 grit sandpaper (or emory paper) and polish. Who knew an old hard drive could have a second life as a cleat or fairlead? It was a teaching moment for me and raised the bar. A few more details: Rigging the jib sheets. Making blocks. Very rough because of the difficulty holding the pieces with a bum arm. Rod rigging Cheek block aft deck Back stay (center) Adjustable back stays port and starboard. Shrouds, adjustment below deck. Self tailing winch. Jib sheet track and block
  12. gil middleton
    Thanks Dave, After following your "Bluenose" I have high expectations for the Skippercraft. It reminds me of the Flatties (Geary 18's) we sailed as kids. Many were home built using plywood sheets. Gil
  13. gil middleton
    Per, You are more of a Dragon (Drakbat) expert than I. I've sailed in several racing dinghies, 27' keel boat, Soling, and Cal 40 but only admired Dragons. Like you, life got in the way. When I started my practice, I couldn't afford anything larger than a dinghy, and when I could, it had to handle several kids. Popeye. I think that colored lines have perhaps become rather standard in small sail boats. When you go to a boat chandlery, one sees dacron lines and newer high tech lines such as Spectra and Dyneema in red, green blue, purple, white black and gray. When I raced our Lightning and Cal 40, our lines were color coded. Not for training, but for instant recognition. Of course my oldest son was red/green color blind. "Nice brown lines Dad." The following photos are from Etchells 22 boats, a 30' boat very similar to Dragons. Not only do they show colored lines, but also how different and customized the rigging can be. Cheers, Gil
  14. gil middleton
    Per, The Dragon has been around for almost 90 years, but I still think of it as a "modern" classic. Does that mean that I'm getting old? Popeye, Why did I think that you would pick up on the random coloring of the lines? A good observer. Actually, the control lines are not port and starboard and not mainly for the jib. I didn't list them for fear of offering more information than the reader wanted. BUT SINCE YOU PICKED UP ON IT................... The control lines would be: 1. Main halyard 2. Main outhaul 3. Main downhaul 4. Boom vang 5. Jib halyard 6. Roller furling jib stay 7. Spinnaker halyard 8. Spinnaker chute open 9. Spinnaker chute close 10. Spinnaker cage to douse the spinnaker The main sheet goes to the traveler. Jib sheets go to the block on the jib track and then to the winch. Spinnaker sheets go to the aft cheek blocks and then to the cockpit. I may be a bit too detail oriented, but it's still fun. Cheers, Gil
  15. gil middleton
    Details: Main traveler,base for winch, leads for control lines and digital repeater for GPS, wind speed and direction, etc. Base for traveler. Winch made from styrene tube and sheet. Running control lines. Rigging traveler. Control lines with jam cleats. Self tailing winch. Spinnaker sheet cheek blocks Wire (rod) rigging. Adjustment below deck. Used 24 G soft wire requiring practicing my soldering technique. Also, I threw out the mast and boom supplied with the kit (square with the slot off center) replacing them with dowels, tapered and using styrene 1/4 round for the sail slot. Spinnaker sheets and launching chute. Also, base for self furling jib with roller control below deck. Tiller with hiking extension arm.
  16. gil middleton
    To be fair, my billings kit is old, given to me many years ago. However, it is a generic kit with little detail. None of the deck or cockpit details were included. Fittings were grossly out of scale and plans oversimplified. The result is a number of models on websites where the main sheet is attached alongside the tiller, rendering the tiller inoperable. Newer plans on Billings' web site appear improved but I have not seen a newer kit. I think one should be prepared to scratch build everything beyond the planking. But then again I never planned to follow the instructions. Preparing the cabin, cockpit rails,deck and seat supports. Deck and interior lining under cabin. Gluing cabin and combing. Fitting Starboard side (not glued) Floor and seats to be installed before gluing. Cockpit deck and seat supports plus central pedestal for main sheet traveler. Completing gluing. From this point on, almost no reference was made to the kit.
  17. gil middleton
    Per, Thanks for checking in. I don't know how you manage to work on multiple projects at a time. My hat's off to you. If I exceed one, I'm likely to be banned from our den. I particularly liked your Bluenose. My interest was tweaked when I was stationed in Halifax (Midshipman) in the Canadian Navy in 1953 and then again on a recent meeting in Halifax where I talked with Wilson Fitt, the project manager for the recent construction of the Bluenose II. And then there was Dave Borgens lovely work in our Seattle group. Your log will be a great guide if I ever get started. Kevin, Many thanks, but remember, mine is just a fun little project. Your HMS Fife would probably not fit in our den. Grant, Da Vinci Flying Machine??? What fun. Cheers, Gil
  18. gil middleton
    The waterline was determined from photos, design specs, etc. and marked with equal length wood strips, then moving the strips along the hull to form the waterline. Masking for the water line. Attaching the mahogany pattern on deck. Deck planking within mahogany framework. Masking for water based flat polyurethane. Thin mahogany trim added to cover the exposed sub-deck. Completed deck planking. The next stage will be adding details to the hull. Cheers, Gil
  19. gil middleton
    Four months since my last post. Some cruising on our boat, but neck surgery put everything on hold. However, all is well and I'll get on with the build log. I left off with planking about half done. The following is rather routine planking and fairing. There was no need for steaming since gentle curves defined the hull. A wallpaper soaking tray did the trick. Planking completed and keel added. Keel required fairing to match false keel. Rudder post in place. First stage in fairing using wood filler. Second stage fairing and adding keel. Forming rudder.
  20. gil middleton
    Grant, So nice to be back among old friends on MSW. I looked at your log of Dumas runabout. Could not help but read through the full nine pages, enjoying the ideas and innovations along the way. The wheel and chrome plating is spectacular. Way above my pay grade. Living in a condo and at 83, I'll never move on to lathes and drill presses, but thoroughly enjoy your experimentation as to what works best. Great to hear from you. Cheers, Gil
  21. gil middleton
    Eddie, Welcome aboard. And John, You're always welcome. With the preponderance of classic ships on MSW, I didn't think anyone would notice a little Dragon. Popeye, The planking was simply left over from the Victory, but I liked it better than the thicker walnut. I used plain water since little bending was necessary with the Dragon's sweet lines. On the Victory, Constitution and Cutty Sark, I used a bit of ammonia and steamed the planks. Dave, Nice to hear from you. Your Bluenose took a great deal more finesse. I almost started the Bluenose, but this seemed like a fun little project. Perhaps the next one. Cheers, Gil
  22. gil middleton
    A bit of pneumonia does interfere with progress, but then one has something to do when you can't do much else. The bulkheads needed considerable adjustments to prepare the "bones" for planking. Shims added and moderate sanding. Followed by rough first planking at the keel. I felt the walnut planking supplied was too wide and thick and instead chose 1/32" Taqnganika Soaking planks in a wallpaper soaker. Knowing I planned to paint the hull, I took some liberties in planking. No rabbeting at the stem and crossover planks leading up to the tern. (shown later) Planks glued at bulkheads and edge glued. Bulkheads faired for double planking at keel. She begins to show her lines. Cheers, Gil
  23. gil middleton
    A little delay to recover from a computer crash. Thank you all for adding to the fun. Popeye, Yes, I plan to use bass wood for the deck to simulate the deck in the first photo of this log. It looks like clean weathered teak to me. Peter, I agree. Approaching each challenge once is rather relaxing instead of repeating some 3000 times (rat lines and copper plates). Per, Thanks for the additional information on the Dragon's history. I'm old enough to think of the Dragon, Soling, Flying Dutchman and 5.5 M classes as contemporary designs. Love your Solo Ruff. John and Bob, A fun little project like this does move along a wee bit faster than the Victory build. Cheers, Gil
  24. gil middleton
    I did not want to use the printed deck and instead cut out the mahogany to fit with the planked deck. Borge used the same technique but was smart enough to cut the deck plan into four parts. I thought I could do it one piece, but you guessed it, I ended up with four pieces. However, the glue lines didn't show and an insert was placed to repair a split section. Before filling in the defects, I experimented with stains. The mahogany was a rather dull brown and I wanted the beauty of red mahogany. The red mahogany stain (upper of four) gave the color I wanted. However that left the defects in the deck to be filled. I learned from refinishing our real boat that sanding lightly with emory paper in a slury of varnish (acrylic poly dries too fast) fill the gaps with stained sawdust for a uniform appearance. Attempting this before staining means the repaired areas will not take up the stain. One can gain additional filler by staining identical scrap wood and using the sawdust. The result after 10 to 12 coats of acrylic polyurethane. The mahogany deck inserts before and after staining and finishing.
  25. gil middleton
    The printed mahogany deck was used as a template for the balsa sub-deck, and then held for mahogany inserts in planking the deck. The sub-deck glued to the frame. Deck sheer. Slight deck camber Cheers, Gil

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