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vaddoc

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  1. Don't Mention The Cricket

    Hehe I don't follow cricket but even I got this one
  2. I am posting the conclusions I ve reached, as others may find it helpfull The first thing to decide when arranging the deck is the crown height or camber. It is usually between 1/2 and 1 inch per foot of beam. Then, find the maximum beam and draw an arc or parabola. There are a few ways of doing this but I used a 3D program. Following this, use the same arc for all points (beams) across the length of the hull. Keep the arc vertical to the waterline and not the sheer (bevelling/fairing will be needed for the beams to sit on the beam selves and the planks to sit on the beams.) Provided the sheer is fair, the deck centreline that will be produced will be fair as well. Nothing is easy in boatbuilding! Vaddoc
  3. Many thanks Lehmann, yes I ve come across this and I ll be using it
  4. I think I get it know The way to do it is to decide on the crown height at max beam and decide on a method to draw the camber. Then you apply the same camber along the boat and different cron heights are produced. As long as your seer is fair, the deck centreline that will be produced will be also a fair curve and the deck planks should sit nicely.
  5. Jud This makes a lot of sense, I understand what you say. This will work brilliantly if the deck centreline is a straight line. Will it be the same if the centreline has a slight curve to follow the sheer (not fully, to a degree)? Vaddoc
  6. Thanks John I have a full set of plans which were (I think) a bit inaccurate so I had to do quite a lot of lofting. However, in the plans there is very little info regarding the deck. It seems that all naval architects assume that this is a very easy part and do not elaborate! I have tried to find some info on the subject but there is very little on the net. I think I ll need to get Chapelle's book. Still, The deck centreline does not seem to always follow the sheer, some times it can be actually almost a horizontal line. Others go for a variable crown towards one or both ends. But even if we suppose it follows the sheer, the crown will need to get more shallow as it reaches the bow and stern otherwise the deck will rise unnatural high. In my boat, the crown should be around 19 mm but the top of the beam selves is 3 mm down from the sheer Then there is the king plan that is pretty long and needs to be straight, but that section of the deck curves upwards. I think I need to study...
  7. I recently finished planking my hull. I used 1 mm micro screws to temporarily secure the planks. These when then removed and the holes filled with tree nails that I make in bulk. It worked beautifully but I built in scale 1:10, I ll paint the hull and my planks were 70 cm long. But maybe it can work for you
  8. When I started boat building the first woods I used were lime, mahogany and walnut. I gave up on all. The problem with walnut is the interlocking grain. I found it difficult to cut and have a clean edge and when bend could suddenly break diagonally along the cross grain fibres. Shaping a strip, it could follow the stray fibres. There are much nicer woods. It finishes superbly though!
  9. Even after heating and bending, a strip should not really brake if pushed further. It might have to do with the wood you use. Maple and beech for example are very flexible and do not become brittle. This is a mahogany strip 0.5 mm that I bent to make hoops
  10. Dear all Could I ask for your help in understanding how the deck is drawn in small sailboats. I am not exactly sure what or how to ask as my knowledge and understanding of this is very shallow but I ll try. I think I have understood that the camber of the beams is a parabola and that there are many ways that this can be drawn. My main problem though is the deck centreline. The way I understand it, it is essentially a straight line form the stem to the transom, having chosen a crown height at max beam. Due to the deck furniture and the very visible sheer, this straight deck centreline is hidden from view. However, it seems that most decks are truly curved. 1. Is there a rule of how curved the deck centreline can be? 2. If the centreline is curved, what happens to the king plank that needs to be straight? 3. Suppose I draw a slightly curved centreline that pleases the eye and then arrange the beams using the same way to figure out the camber. Is it likely that the deck planks will sit nicely or will a lot of fairing be needed? 4. Is the crown height measured perpendicular to the horizontal level or to the sheer? In the first case the beams will meet the deck planks at an angle and will need fairing but in the second will sit flat. Or is this not an issue to the relatively small rise of the sheer? 5. Is it better to go for a straight centreline or is it better to have a bit of curve? Apologies if I don't make much sense! Vaddoc
  11. Another noob

    Welcome Scipios!
  12. Dear all You might find this helpful I have some 2 part epoxy resin that I bought maybe 5 years ago. It is still perfectly fine and I have lots left. However, the resin had become very thick to the point I could not draw with a syringe. I popped it in the microwave with the lid off for 25 secs in increments (for a half full 12 oz bottle). It liquified again beautifully. It seems that the resin can crystallise in cold or with time and that microwaving it or letting it sit in warm water brings it back. Visually, there does not seem to be any difference in its qualities. Previously I had thrown away epoxy or had trouble matching the volumes because of this problem so this seems a good fix. No health and safety guarantees though, I did it when the admiral was out. Regards
  13. Dear all I think the problem is solved. I decided against building the interior so no huge access needed. Still, the boat is so large that I can squeeze my arm in the hull! Most importantly though, I added the first strip that will make the beam selves (It will be laminated from 3 strips 3 x 3 mm each. I feel that the hull immediately stiffened up a lot. I ll add the rest of the strips for the selves and also the stringers and I will report back when I take the braces off. Many thanks for your advices. Regards
  14. Dear Druxey, Jim, Steven and Bruce Thank you for your suggestions. I have now installed more braces and removed the last two temporary frames. Steven, your boat is very nice. 132 frames though! And I though my 84 were a lot. Still, your boat even without stringers held its shape. My frames are 4 x 2 mm beech and despite they bent nicely after heated through, they are stiff and they seem to push hard against the planks. I am really not sure what I should do. Building a scaffold externally to support the hull seems to be the more comprehensive way but means an awful lot of work. I find that I can squeeze my hand enough to do some work and possibly I will be able to sand the frames and install the stingers and beam selves. I think that I may have overcorrected a couple of areas when installing the new braces as I had to push rather hard to install them. I ll have another look. Certainly though the hull will need to be supported. This was a useful lesson. I think that hulls with steam bend frames are lighter but probably not as strong as hulls with proper solid frames. I ll post updates in this thread when I find theme to do some more work. Regards Vaddoc
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