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  1. vaddoc

    Je me présente

    Bienvenue Ahmed! This reminded me that 30 years ago I could speak French!
  2. Not really Patrick. For some reason CA never worked for me so bonding dissimilar material is a headache. I sometimes use epoxy as good surface mating is not essential but it is messy and does not work very well. I have a feeling I ve been using the wrong CA glue, too fluid and too cheap! I think next I ll try a combination of gell CA with an activator to set it in seconds. I need to remember not to scratch my eyelids when gluing...😀
  3. It is certainly coming along Patrick, no easy task capturing the very many curves and recesses! You are gluing plastic, paper, styrene and wood together and some times the contact area is tiny, is it CA glue you are using? Vaddoc
  4. vaddoc

    New Recruit

    Welcome Pherigo! For sure start a build log and share your journey. Vaddoc
  5. Thanks Patrick, good to hear from you again! Between work, family and a wisdom tooth extraction that went pear shaped, I managed to do very little work. Still, I made the cabin top hand rails. Turned out to be one of the most enjoyable tasks! I wanted to use pear but somehow, I only realised the wood I was using was cherry after the rails were finished. A splash of Tung oil and they are ready to be installed and then varnished.
  6. vaddoc

    New member introduction

    Welcome Bruce! I d say start building, far too much fun to miss out.
  7. vaddoc

    What have you received today?

    My main problem making blocks is what to use for a sheave. After a long search I found at Alliexpress 100 pulleys 5 mm OD and 1.5 m hole 100pcs 5.15A motor pulley OD 5mm 1.5mm hole/plastic pulley Cost including postage from China was $5 and arrived within 1 week. Maybe it will work for my 1:10 scale.
  8. Regarding saw discs. Both the tungsten tip one and the steel wood disc are very good. Could not really tell a huge difference for the dimensions I cut. The metal cutting HSS I found completely useless. I could not cut 1 mm brass, it was even dangerous. Maybe it's me though. Another thing, I ve read that the bearings on the saw are not shielded and gather dust easily. I ve attached the admiral's decommissioned vacuum cleaner and it sucks all the dust away, the dust extraction port is excellent. Highly recommended set up. As Brian and Bill say, it can send pieces flying so wear glasses and count your fingers. I am ashamed to say though I took the guard immediately off...
  9. Have fun with your new saw Nick! I found my KS very useful for cutting strips and long straight sides in panels. For accurate sizing of parts though I use the disc sander or multiple passes with a sharp knife. I think you ll find this little saw useful and personally I did not find it underpowered, considering it is intended fro small jobs. I sanded flat the end of the screw that tightens the fence, it comes out from factory slightly oblique and ruins the alignment of the fence. Took less than a second, used the disc sander, look into this.
  10. Spot on Carl! Lawrence, I run the drill press at the highest speed. I have a pair of excellent (and expensive) Knipex side cutters. The raised surface easilt sands away, especially if the nails are made of softwood and the boat timber from something harder. You can very easily make 0.6 mm wide, probably smaller if you wish. I make a few hundreds each time I sit down to it. I now use them all the time as structural nails Regards
  11. Good to hear from you Patrick! Loved the Leopard rug, very classy.
  12. Good suggestion Mark, I thought about it but in the end I just sanded everything and applied Tung oil! It darkened the nails a bit, it stands out less. I think I ll leave it as is and carry on with the rest of the building... After the Tung oil went on, things look better. My 3 year old daughter saw the cabin and said "look daddy, this is a door!" so it probably looks like one! I ll put brass hinges and two knobs and then the top hatch and it should look ok I think. I continued work on the cockpit, I laminated and installed the side plywood panels. Cherry veneers will be added on both sides and then a top bit like a gunwale. I had also prepared the aft panels but following the installation of the sides they do not fit properly so I need to make them again. The screws will be removed and replaced with treenails. I realised that I do not have enough clamps! Not very original but I really need to get some more. Also, at some point I need to start thinking about the rudder. Regards
  13. Thank you all for the good wards. Druxey, very useful tips! I did a bit more work, I made again one of the benches as it was not a good fit. I also added more panels to the doors, I think it looks better and there are still pieces that have not had Tung oil on. I also installed more bits to the cabin and started replacing the screws with treenails. Regarding the treenails, things did not go as planned. For some reason my cherry piece stopped producing treenails like before. The needle drills constantly burn and clog. I had to use pine so the treenails are white. Also, for some reason I can no longer produce 0.6 mm diameter but only 1 mm. they are a bit out of scale but I do not think it matters a lot. Either way, I have accepted that due to current life circumstances some compromises will need to be made to allow me to keep on building. At some point I will fix this issue but I do not rely want to invest time in this so I ll use the treenails I already have. I also finished the steps, I am not sure if it is really a good idea but I invested time making it and in the end of the day something is needed as the companionway doors are quite high. A few pictures, really difficult to get good ones due to the size of the boat. The hatches are not glued on yet.
  14. vaddoc

    Willow Wood

    According to Wood Database, it does not look a very good alternative. "With its low density and interlocked grain, willow has very poor machining characteristics, frequently resulting in fuzzy surfaces or tearout. Willow also tends to develop numerous drying defects and can be difficult to season. Glues and finishes well. Responds moderately well to steam bending."
  15. Best filler I ve used is Elmers color change wood filler. The trade ones are very hard and the lightweight fillers from model shops do not sand well. I never liked the PVA/wood dust mix. Elmers is brilliant, applies well, dries quickly and sands very well. You can mix it with water based paint (and probably wood dust), it will still work. When it changes from purple to pale, it is ready for sanding.

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