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About vaddoc

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    Cambridge, UK

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  1. I ll be using tree nails for the planking in my current build. Today, I made a few, maybe couple hundred. I used 2 size needles and made 2 lots. As you can see they came out in various lengths, some pretty long.
  2. Indeed, Allan, Druxey is right. The boat I am building turned out to be really complex! I ve cracked the planking, still a handful though with each plank 60+ cm long and 2 mm thick...
  3. I think I should post my recent experience as it might help some first timers in planking like myself. I realised that I probably got my GB plank wrong. I have gone as far as installing the first 5 planks (GB plank upwards). You can see the shape of the GB in the photo above. The problem is, that as planking progresses, the spilling gets more aggressive up until the 7th plank (in my hull at least) and then it eases off. Now, my GB is already spilled so things get pretty bad with spilling as I progress. If I had taken the gb a bit higher in the stem (not much) and thinned the plank in the middle, given it a bit of a butterfly appearance, I would probably need much less spilling for the rest of the planks. This is why there is the advice of keeping the upper edge as straight as possible. I suspect my spilling will get a bit unrealistic and my wood wastage is huge. Lesson learned though!
  4. Thanks for the photos and update Mike, I enjoyed very much reading the thread. Indeed each of these ships is a floating forest. It is a massive work nowadays even with the help of power tools and an oil company, how where they doing it back then? The timbers are huge.
  5. Actually, all this is unnecessary. I simply left the plank under the tab with hot water running for about 30 secs. I was then able to twist the plank in extreme shapes. For the thicknesses we work with, just very hot water is enough
  6. This is the GB plank in my boat after fitting Seems to climb up the stem about as much as yours Don (although the two boats are very different)
  7. This is brilliant Moxis, thanks for the tip. I struggled with this in my last boat Vaddoc
  8. Dave, have a go at making your own. After I figured out the essentials of ropemaking, I also made my own machine. I used scrap pieces of wood and metal, plastic cogs and a geared motor, al very cheap. I can produce really good rope at lengths of more than 2 meters, in my new garage probably even longer. I can do both right and left lay 3 strand rope.
  9. My boat is in 1:10 scale, unfortunately it won't fit! One more observation, the wood remained pliable for quite some time after it had cooled down, allowing huge twists. When I picked it up this afternoon and tried to bend it again, it broke
  10. Dear all I need to steam bend the garboard planks and the task does not justify a big investment in time and money I unscrewed the handle off a pot, rolled a piece of plastic bag and attached to the screw hole. I used ordinary masking tape. I attached a piece of tape to the straight plank and lowered it into the cylinder. The amount of heat coming out of the top is incredible, nearly scorched my hand just passing it over. In a few minutes I pulled out the 2 mm maple strip, it was hot, easy to bend and maintained its curve. However, my hob is induction, so much safer to use than electricity or gas Regards
  11. I use the big bottles of epoxy and insulin syringes as you can get very accurately just 1 m of each. If I need more epoxy I use 3 ml syringes (without the needle). I wear single use gloves and of course use the syringes only once. Very consistent results and not messy at all. Better value for money also I think It is important to avoid skin contact with epoxy as an immune response builds up over tine.
  12. This is an interesting idea, could give solutions if they prove useful. Do you mean Niobium or Neodymium magnets? Niobium magnets seem to have very specific applications and are not easy to get. Regards
  13. Either way it is not possible to store your details on their site, every time i buy something I need to enter all details al over again. But it is safe, I ve used it many times
  14. I did some more work on my planking and this time I played with a batten. The batten I used was pear wood, very stiff wood, very straight strip, 2 x 5 mm. Really does not want to bend sideways. I realised I couple of things: 1. If you place the baten so that it lies flat on all frames, it will start low at the stern and end up very high at the bow, which is of no use. 2. I you bend the baten so that it touches all frames just with one edge, lifting the other edge, and mark the contact point at all frames, you get a fair graceful curve. This can be modified to start and finish at different points at the bow and stem so that it does not dive down or points up very high. Always allow the strip to lift and bend freely, making sure always it touches all frames with an edge. 3. If the first try is near the middle of the frame mid hull, we know that half the planks will need to be placed above and the others bellow, so the starting point at the stern and the finishing point at the bow can be selected so that all planks have enough space. 4. The amount of spilling needed appears proportional to the lift the edge of the baten will have 5. This way the hull can be divided to as many sections as needed, and even the width of the plank can be different for each section (This is advanced planking I think) 6. The Garboard plank will need to follow the curve and shape of the baten when general outlining and division to sections is completed, the only thing then to decide is how wide and how high up the stem it can go. This is a photo of my hull, it was done just eyeballing it and I think is close enough. I used the baten on the other side but gave me pretty much the same result.
  15. Eddie, this deserves the "doing something in the most possible complex way" award! In the end you also need a lathe and have only 5 min to thread the valve before ammonia consumes your house! It reminds me of this annual competition for the most purposeless scientific research. Still, it works. Regards