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  1. Dziadeczek

    syrenscompany ropewalk

    Aren't you supposed to allow one end of yout ropewalk to slide on the table (perhaps weighted with a ballast?) to allow your rope to shrink somewhat? Twisted rope is typically shorter than individual strands for about 25%. Perhaps that's the reason you broke your first rope...
  2. Dziadeczek

    What have you received today?

    Ron, A while ago I made such a "block rigging tool" from a piece of steel strapping tape I picked up for free from a local hardware store (scrap metal). I can place even a smallest (2 mm) block in the jaws of this tool and that allows me to strop the block with ease and without loosing it. Smallest blocks sometimes will require to redrill their holes a bit bigger to pass the rope through. Soaking the end of the stropping thread in white glue and rolling it in your fingers to sharpen it will ease the process of passing it through the hole (after the glue dries, off course!) By the way, notice that the ends of the jaws are filed a bit concave in order to hold the rounded up shape of a block better and with their entire surfaces, to prevent it from slipping away into the abyss.
  3. J. Boudriot in his "74 gun ship" details the cabins there, including the captain's cabin. Drawings and descriptions are given.
  4. If however you'd have decided to do it yourself and your models are in display cases, here is what I once did with my Billing's "Norske Loeve" (this was recommended once by someone from the old "Seaways" list). I obtained a large bag od styrofoam "popcorns" and simply gently filled out an entire case with them (built with plastic sheets, not glass, BTW. Lexan, to be precise) WITH the model inside, , making sure styrofoam fell into all crannies and corners in between the model and the case. Then, I carefully taped the case with a blue painters tape and placed everything in the trunk of my car (station wagon), laying it flat on soft blankets, and drove it to the new place. It was however not nearly as far as yours, just a few miles, but, to my astonishement, absolutely nothing happened to the model, after complete removal of the 'popcorns'. And the roads were not as smooth as one could imagine! You can obtain these styrofoam 'popcorns' in large bags from places like post offices or office supplies stores, like Staples or Office Depot. Something to consider, besides professionals...
  5. I have a handful of pics of the Constitution's carronades. Maybe they'll help?
  6. Have you tried a round head burr of appropriate size for a Dremel rotary tool? I find it to be much more delicate and accurate than ordinary drill bitts for these type of tasks.
  7. Dziadeczek

    a78 011.JPG

    Nice model! Thank you!!!
  8. Mc Kay gives 18 inches for both lower deadeyes, and Longridge says 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) in your scale (1:48), which is about right.
  9. It used to be called Ventura County Maritime Museum, but since its move to the new location (2012) the new name is now Channel Islands Maritime Museum. Probably because it is located within the Channel Islands Harbor and in the near proximity to the Channel Islands National Park - a couple of dozen miles into the Pacific. Here is a link that might provide additional info: http://www.cimmvc.org/about-cimm/
  10. And yet another, recent revisit to the Museum resulted in still more pictures... Here they are: http://www.bluemelon.com/pstrykacz/channelislandmaritimemuseumoxnardca#page-60/photo-7011156 beginning with nr. 71 (California strawberries) and onward. Be sure to open them up in full size (original) format. Greetings to all, Thomas
  11. I stumbled by accident on this website, with 45 pictures of a recently restored Japanese 114 year old pre-Dreadnought battleship "Mikasa" - a flagship of admiral Togo in the Tsushima Straits battle in 1905, during the Japanese-Russo war of 1904-5. Now she is a museum ship. Awesome! https://www.cnet.com/pictures/take-a-tour-of-the-114-year-old-japanese-battleship-mikasa-pictures/
  12. A- rectangular plywood or solid wood base, clamped on both ends to a work table B- smaller rectangular piece glued to the A C- triangular piece cut across from another rectangle initially formed from C & D, this one glued to the A D- similar piece like C, but this one not glued to A, loosely fit between B and C to slide and clamp there a strip of planking F, to be shaped there E- miniature shaving plane for shaping (spilling) planks. You can also use a file or a sandpaper for this purpose. I got this concept years ago from the Seaways forum, and it still serves me well.
  13. If I can add to it a bit, I suggest you invest a little in the following: - an excellent brochure by Jim Roberts "Planking the built-up ship model", where you'll find answers to the above (video) issues, as well as others, like how to model stealers, and so on... - a pair of proportional dividers, which make spilling a bit easier than using a paper strip - a good quality (metal) ship's curve (or cheaper plastic set of them) rather than a straight ruler - a home made plank shaving jig (easy), with a miniature shaving block - to shape a spilled plank Here is a link http://www.boat-building.org/learn-skills/index.php/en/home-en/ to various techniques used in full scale of boat/ship building.
  14. Hi ..., At this point (bulkheads already glued onto the keel) it is difficult to cut a rabbet into your keel. You should have done it BEFORE permanently glueing your bulkheads. First, you should have dry fitted your bulkheads on your keel and marked with a pencil all points where the ends (tips) of the bulkheads touch the keel, the so called bearding line - that would give you a curved line along the keel, following which you should make a cut with an exacto knife and later enlarge it, cutting two additional paralel lines at an angle (into a "v" groove). When I build a kit model, I prefer to cut off this part of the plywood keel that will be on the outside (visible) after hull planking, and replace it with an exactly shaped part from some kind of solid hardwood, eg. cherry, pear or even birch... But before I glue it onto the keel, I would file off the edges of both the plywood keel as well as my solid wood false keel. Thus I obtain a nice looking "v" shaped groove after I join both pieces, and my external keel will look much nicer after I plank the hull. At the current stage of your model, I would only glue a very thin piece of wood (like a hardwood veneer) on both sides of the keel, with the upper edge following the bearding line and the lower edge exactly matching the lower edge of your keel. That would give you a nice 'shoulder' to place your garboard strake against (lowest strake of planking touching the keel). Otherwise it is extremely difficult to glue this strake directly onto the keel with seamless matching of both parts. Hope this helps...
  15. Dziadeczek


    I have this illustration:

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