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  1. Holy cow, Doris! You are blinding fast, while maintaining your excellent quality standards! Fantastic!!!
  2. I once tried to do it by hand, leading the thread into the 'grooves' of a rope stretched on a serving machine (with mixed results). Pain in the ... Maybe someone has a more mechanical and better method?
  3. You have to explore the possibilities that are offered by people who are into archery. Namely, they use the so called "bow string server" which travels along the served line while serving it at the same time. Please google "bow string server" and select "images" and you'll see many potential solutions. They typically serve the line for a bow, which is a bit thicker then most of your miniature ropes for shipmodeling, so, if you want to obtain a commercially available gadget, you have to choose a possibly smaller one typically available for archery. Or, make one by yourself from parts which are typically available around your house/workshop. The solutions are endless... The beauty of such a server is that it requires no, or very little attention, while serving your lines. It hungs suspended from your rope and its weight and tension controlled by the screw (next to a spool with thread), controls how tight is your serving. (Initial setup is therefore required) . Once you start your serving process, you can literally make yourself a cup of coffee and drink it while observing the action of serving (provided that your serving machine is mechanically powered (electric DC motor) and you are serving a long enough piece of a rope). The server, while serving your rope, WILL AUTOMATICALLY MOVE ALONG THE ROPE without your intervention whatsoever. You can even install a device that will shut off the power to the motor when the serving reaches the end of the rope, so that you don't have to watch the process. Many years ago I made a simple device for serving - see attachments. It works perfectly for most of my ropes. Bigger (thicker) ropes will require a bigger server, naturally.
  4. What adhesive do you use to joint parts together? I imagine, you first bake the sheet with all parts on it, and then you put them together into a chair... With what glue? A CA adhesive? Epoxy...?
  5. Hi Doris, If I may ask you another question. How did you make your figurehead from the modeling clay? I understand completely the theory behind these flat reliefs, which you executed so perfectly (rolling thin slivers on the wax paper and shaping them with a small brush + tweezers). But when it comes to a 3D, free standing pieces, obviously you cannot place them on a paper. Did you fashion a skeleton for your horse-mounted king from a wire - an armature, before you started to build up his body from clay? Can you bake the initial body and subsequently add to it more fine details (like arms, details of clothing and armaments) and then you bake the whole thing again, or you have to make the entire figure at once and bake it in the oven? Thanks in advance for your answer.
  6. Un-freaking-believable!!! Hats off!!! Could you tell us what book is in the pics, placed in front of your model?
  7. Dziadeczek

    cutting out the gunports

    I use these blades for my Exacto knife, after predrilling holes in the corners of the gunports. It works. https://www.amazon.com/Zona-39-925-Replacement-Blades-5-Pack/dp/B000MDLFNQ/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000MDLFNQ&pd_rd_r=d4c28335-f423-11e8-a9a4-91dd53fb1641&pd_rd_w=VKgNQ&pd_rd_wg=U6dmQ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=DQ15ED6JRRFJZ9NNNZ6B&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=DQ15ED6JRRFJZ9NNNZ6B
  8. Frank, If you own a mini table saw, like the Proxxon FKS, Microlux or Byrnes one, or similar, you can cut these triangles freehand. First mark a pencil line diagonally across the rectangle, remove a fence from your table saw, place your rectangle on the saw's table and carefully and slowly feed it into the teeth of your saw blade, making sure that the cut follows your pencil line. I don't need to caution you to watch your fingers while cutting, do I? :- Any minor irregularities, waviness in the cut should be subsequently evened out with sanding. Hope this helps, Thomas
  9. Here is how I shape (spill) my planks. First, build yourself a simple jig - see a pic below. A- base from plywood clamped to table B- rectangle from ~ 1/8 in. plywood, glued to base A C and D - another identical rectangle, but cut diagonally into two triangles: C - glued to A, and D - loose between B and C E - small plane for shaving the planks F- plank locked between B and D After carefully ticking off points of plank widths corresponding for each frame/bulkhead (a distance [taken with proportional dividers or a strip of paper] between two battens on your hull), and transfering them onto your plank, place TWO identical planks in the jig between B and D and clamp them tightly in the jig. (each plank will be for each side of the hull - after shaving them TOGETHER to the required shape, they should be identical - which you want them like that, since both sides of the planked hull should be identical) and besides, you want to make your work faster and simpler, don't you? Connect the above mentioned points into a curve on your plank, using a spilling curve, a French curve (best made from metal, like aluminium). Clamp both planks in the jig in such a way, that the plank with marked pencil line is facing you, and start shaving them carefully with the plane E - almost to the pencil line, but not quite so. When you are almost there, finish shaping the pair od planks exactly with sandpaper glued to a paint mixing stick or similar, but sand each plank under certain angle rather than 90 degs. The plank facing you - sand it with a bevel towards you, the other one - in the opposite direction. This will allow you to mount each plank on the hull very neatly and tightly next to the neighbouring plank and without ugly fissures in between. Repeat the above for the next pair of planks and continue so. Plank each bulwark with one plank and then go to the other side (bulwark) with the second plank, rather than planking straight ahead the entire bulwark and then continuing with the opposite side. This will prevent undesireable warping of the hull during drying off the moist planks (after you wet bent them). I built this simple jig many years ago, following advice from the now defunct Seaways List, and to this day the jig still serves me well, saves lots of time and makes my planks very exact. Greetings, Thomas PS: In addition to the above mentioned (excellent) sources of info on planking, I also wholeheartedly recommend a brochure by the late Jim Roberts "Planking the Built-up Ship Model", which is a bit more advanced than the book by Mastini, but explains clearly all problems a modeler might encounter during his/her build. The brochure, to my knowledge, is still available from Model Expo.
  10. Gorgeous ropes, all of them! I wonder, did you try to twist any left handed ones as well from your threads? Fantastic looking ropewalk!
  11. Doris, I would like very much to see your sculpting tools. A couple of pics, please, if possible?
  12. Thanks for the pics from NMM. Nice! When I was there (about 15 years ago) there was almost nothing to see - mostly lots of silly interactive displays for kindergarteners and hardly any models. Photography was prohibited without any exceptions, and the ban strictly enforced. If your camera is a SLR type, next time you take pics of models, try using a polarising filter and set the camera on Aperture priority, select the smallest aperture (biggest F number) for the greatest depth of field and mount it on a tripod (if allowed in the museum). The polariser will eliminate (or greatly reduce) glass glare reflections from model cases, but will slightly lengthen exposure time. Also, the small aperture (opening) will greatly lengthen exposure time, which the camera will automatically select. For these reasons, you'll unfortunately need a tripod, since hand held photography will almost certainly smudge the pics (you won't be able to keep the camera steady for such a long exposure time (usually about half a minute or longer, depending on the ambient light). DON'T EVER USE A FLASH!!! Use a cable release or self timer to avoid accidently shaking the camera with your finger during picture taking. You might also have to adjust white ballance to something like "Incandescent" setting, so your pictures won't turn too yellow. Thanks again!! :-) Thomas
  13. https://www.cnn.com/videos/travel/2018/09/19/the-hms-endeavour-could-finally-be-found-orig-tc.cnn

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