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About maggsl_01

  • Birthday 08/19/1960

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    Hof - Franconia - Germany
  • Interests
    Modelling, Dogs, motorbikes, photography, travel

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  1. Hello again my friends, time for another update. I finished the first step of the first planking. The hull is planked below the main deck level on both sides, all is plane, filled (not so much necessary) and sanded. I will prepare the battery deck now for the later insertion of the guns. Therefore I made two tools: First an adapter for the correct height of the gunports. The center of the barrels has to be 12 mm above the deck level - according to the plans. So I cut off a part of a strip, marked the middle line and made a hole exact 12 mm above the beginning of the strip. I had marked the center line of the guns before I started planking. This is the lower reference point. Here I fixed the adapters middle line and marked the barrel center point through the hole with a pencil. Then I used a pin to puncture the marking. That's all. Now I drilled a hole through the hull. Now the pattern for the gunports were used. I cut off a piece of plywood with the correct measures (16mm x 18 mm), made a hole in the center and sticked a toothpick through. This toothpick fitted in the hole in the hull - and voila: I could line the gunport along the pattern. Now the gunports will be at the exact height following the curvature of the deck with the correct dimension. I will cut off the 20 gunports of the battery deck, mount the inner second planking for more stability and a good fitting of the gunport sills. As usual some pics are attached. Cheerio Max
  2. Hello my friends, a few pics show the progress. I have finished the first half of the first step - the planking of the starboard side below the maindeck-level. I used a planer and sanding paper and some wooden filler. All in all it was a pleasure to plank the hull. I cannot see any problems so far. It is the fifth hull I plank so I've got some expierence with this job Just look at the pics and you will see what I mean - it's a phantastic build. Next week I ill plank the portside, then I cut off the gunports and will do a second planking along the inner side of the gundeck. Cheerio Max
  3. Hello my friends, it's time again for a little update. Of course I could not let the weekend pass by without some work on the FWZP. Due to the very bad weather - even the dogs did not want to take a long walk - I decided to start first planking of the hull. The provided material - limewood strips - is really excellent. It's very easy to bend the strips after a hot water bath, the timber is sliced very exactly and cut into 1.5/6mm strips. It's very comfort to work with it - I know kits with much more worse material. I started at the gundeck level and will go to the keel and upwards to the lower level of the main deck at a first step. When I have finished this work I will sand and fill up some smaller gaps. After another sanding I will cut out the gun ports of the battery deck. After this a second layer along the inner side of the hull (battery deck) will follow. I do this for a maximum of stability and for a good fitting of the gunport sills. As usually some pics in the attachement Cheerio Max
  4. Hello again I was busy today and prepared the skeleton of FWZP for the first planking. Therefore I first decided to plank the entire battery deck. I had done this before just for the probably visible area below the opening in the main deck as I perhaps will leave one or two gratings opened. But at least I thought I have to plank the rest too. Its not visible and in this matter it would not care if planked or not. But I knew it - and thus I started to create a proper surface. Just a pity that the pattern of planking is not correct... The first planking of the stern is done, also the last fine tuning on the bow, the stringers and the frames. I marked the correct position of the guns so I can cut off the ports later. I will have a break now til monday. Then I will probably start the first planking. Cheerio Max
  5. Hi Pete, thank you - what you say is just the way I understand this kit. And this is just what it makes so exciting. It's not only glueing parts together and some day you have a model like any other modellers have. No - it's brainwork, it's thinking about solutions, it's improving your own skill, getting expierence.. and at least, as you say, create a model, not only assemble parts together. Regards - Max
  6. Hi Pete, thank you. I know your interpretives and use them as you mentioned: I will take ideas from it but don't understand them as "rules to be followed". E.g. I build a flat transom and will sure do a lot of things quite different (as my skill is not 10+ 😂) But they give so much hints and tipps to come along with this wonderful kit. I enjoy every minute - even when the challenge is quite powerful How did you solve the problem with the last gun before the stern? It has to be placed between frame 8 and 9 to be on the correct place according to the plan. I decided just to use the carriage without the wheel - thus the gun will fit into the place. I will surely write whenever I come to a dead end Best wishes from Germany, the "home" of the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde... Max
  7. Hello mates, after the holidays a little update about my work on the FW. A mentioned before I completely renewed the stingers (except the already installed battery deck). It's quite a lot of fine tuning to do, but at least you get the stringers fitting. I was surprised - although this is my fifth built and I should be used to it - that especially this detail work is so much relaxing. The more you understand the function of the parts you work with the more you become a part of the ship. I always feel like travelling in the time... often I listen to Youtube-Videos that tell me about the historic navy. I have prepared all decks for the later use, especially I fixed some supports on the lower side of the deck halves. This will give more stability to the decks - as I hope. The bow fillers - I changed the timber: I used balsa instead of the provided limewood - are in shape and all further preparations are done. Next step is to create the guns on the battery deck. As this guns will no be seen later - just the barrels go through the ports - I will only make some basic work - gun carriage, wheels and the barrels. There is no need for rigging. Later for the visible guns on the main deck I will take more care for a detailled and historic correct impression. The interpretive documents by piratepete show a very good way to reach this goal. The first planking will be the next challenge... I think I will start next week. Cheerio Max
  8. Hello again time for an update (I am in vacation from mid Dec to mid Jan - so I have time enough for my shipyard ) Working on the stern. Up to now all works quite easy and good. As piratepete says in the interpretive document you have to make a major decision - curved transom or flat transom. The parts provided are made for a flat transom. It's quite difficult to bend the plywood and the supporting pieces of the stern construction. I decided to take the way to the flat transom. It's my interpretation - and so it's ok to me. Nevertheless there is a lot of sanding and cutting off to do - but the plans are so good that you understand all - as soon as you have understood the plans But nothing is a problem just a very calm and contemplative way to the final ship. As usual some pics in the attachement. Cheerio Max
  9. Hi mates and friends another update: I planked the battery deck where it may be visible through the gratings. I used maple strips as Mr Moonfeld says the decks where planked with light wood. The provided walnut seems to be too dark for deck planking. You can see the size relations of the cannons to the deck in the attached pics. All good so far - just thinking about the Derfflinger by Euro Model and the Royal William... Got another seven years to get retired Cheerio Max
  10. Hi Mark just found the gallery pics from your FW. I see you painted all decorations in gold. I was thinking about to paint them in a wooden brwon color and a kind of bronze. I will try both and compare... but this is future At the moment I plank the battery deck where it's visible through the gratings and along the guns place. I will also use maple for the main decks and not the provided walnut. I don't like the dark color for the decks. I hope in some years my FW will be a s beautiful as yours... btw - you built a flat transom? regards Max
  11. Hello friends and mates, a small update to my FW. I started to construct the hull and all went good so far. The frames were excellent precut, almost no further work had to be done as the usual. Nevertheless I was surprised that the notches in the frames for the stringers are not as exact as they should and of course could be. There is quite a lot to work with this notches to get the stringers so tight and straight that they will fulfill their job and fix the decks. Oh... the decks... another disappointing expierence. Although I controlled the precut notches they did not work properly. I had to widen all notches to get the battery deck fitting on the frames. I did not expect such a bad preparation by Euro Model... It's not a challenge you can't win, but in my opinion it could have been done better. At least all is ok and works fine. I glued the battery deck in its place and later I will plank the deck partial, were it can be seen from the main deck. Thank you for your attention - and as usual: some pics show the progress so far. Cheerio Max
  12. Hello again... I did the first step - I startet with a dry-fit test of the keel and frames. The first test is excellent - there is NO further work to do on the frames, the material (frames: 5mm plywoob, keel: 10mm plywood) is extreme good quality. Everything fits perfect, just clean the parts an prepare it for the later planking. If the rest of the kit - esp decks - has the same quality it will be a fun to construct this ship. Although the material is quite thick I will build in some cell strengtheners between the frames. The model will be at last almost 100 cm long, so any additional stability is good, as Pete recommends to do. Just a few pic are attached to show the very first step - not any clue used. Cheerio Max
  13. Hello mates and friends, now some pics of the kit and its content. There is a lot of timber - seems to be top quality - some lasercut parts - frames, decks, keel - and a lot of stuff from block, yarn, canons up to any kind of decoration. There are NO prepared parts - you have to create everything by your own. 12 sheets of plans (including sail instructions, but no material for sails), a small booklet, a CD-Rom with additional advives. Thats all. I am looking forward to start and will begin with the construction of itemsd like bollards, canons etc. After this I will start the hull's construction. Cheerio Max
  14. Hi Mark, thank you for your attention. I am not sure how big this project will be. The plan give so much more informations as I thought and the interpretive documents by Peter Coward are almost frightening with their detailling. But I want to create a really really good model - so I will look and be grateful for every kind of help I will NOT put sails on it as I think it's not necessary. Cheerio Max
  15. Hello my friends and fellow mates, after a long break I come back to my shipyard. I have a very challanging projekt to solve - the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde. I plan a construction time of more than four years for the vessel. The box is full of material of obviously finest quality. I will take some photos an publish them the next few days. I downloaded all the interpretive documents available at the Euromodel site written by Peter Coward. After studying the book I will go to the working space with great respect - though I do not know how far I will follow the modifications. But I want to build a real good model further than the not-modified one. I decided to start now although I actually wanted to wait till I am retired - but this will last another 6 or 7 years. So long I did not want to wait. I will be back soon with some pics of the box and the material. Cheerio Max

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