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About md1400cs

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  • Birthday September 27

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  • Location
    Santa Monica CA USA
  • Interests
    Commercial aviation, aeronautics, diecast cars, 1/400 aircraft collecting.

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  1. Hi mates Denis: Thanks for the comments. Before I even think about “patting myself on the back” I need to bow to all builders who actually copper entire hulls. My simple little cross section doesn’t hold a candle to those other builder's work and the complexities involved in properly setting 1000s of plates to the curves also involved. I am happy, however with how this first attempt is coming out. Frank: these pliers were part of a set I bought years ago when I was detailing model cars and engines. I think that I got them at Micromark. https://www.micromark.com/Metal-Forming-Pliers-Set-of-4 Regards,
  2. Hi Mates, Started copper plates installation. Decided to start at keel, because if I messed up -during first attempt at this - I could easily hide errors, and learn as I went up to the water lines. Yes some early alignment, and spacing issues -- hiding haha -- but once I got the hang of it all fell into a nice pattern, so far so good. Here are a few early start pics. Regards as always,
  3. Ulises, Nice to see you back as well. Your tops look excellent - nice work.
  4. md1400cs

    szalupa 8.jpg

    Dali -- you also did a brilliant job with that barrel
  5. A couple of Very minor updates from today -- Added rope stays to the barrels Added shot framing to the lower gun deck (not as it should be) but done,
  6. Martyn: Thanks - ordered the Gorilla brand. Now straightening out and or slightly curving the copper plates. Glue comes Monday so looking forward to this section of the build. Patrick: Agreed the brass, non decorated barrels will look more appropriate for this build. After the coppering, will get back to getting those painted, mounted, and secured to the lower deck. Then I need to figure out the proper locations for the gun door framing, and how they connect to outer hull planking. My Vasa was all wrong (at the outer hull) -- I'm determined to get it right this time As always mates thanks for your advice, help, and just dropping by Cheers,
  7. Martyn, Super nice -- all of your extra details AND the lights make this one really special - Gongrats Regards,
  8. HI Mates, Frank: thanks for the idea. I knew about this technique, but not quite comfortable enough trying to make the strips look realistic. Denis: tried your idea. The admiral has a wooden rolling pin, I don’t think that I could push hard enough to flatten the dimples. Also the wood absorbed some of the pressure points. I got poor results. So Plan B; No longer using the pliers, one at a time instead using double sided tape and our knife sharpening stone just taping on the dimples with a hobby hammer. Much better, and faster "factory production" -- Also, since I will reverse side -- attach of the plates –dimples really need to be very flat to properly lay upon hull planks once glue is added. Hammer taps on that stone block does the trick. Not sure what glue to use will try CA Gel on a practice piece. Cheers,
  9. Dave, Just discovered your superb project - went through your build log -- Awesome work indeed !! Cheers,
  10. Hi Mates, Thanks for the welcome back and you visits. So, carriages/guns put on hold - It occurred to me that I prob. should copper the hull before adding more bits and decks. This will be my first effort. I’ve seen and followed some great builds that added plates. Of course this small, easy cross section will be a “walk in the park, compared to coppering full hulls. That said, I read a very interesting letter in the Spring 2018 Vol. 63 issue of the Nautical Research Journal. Member, Ian Poole, was commenting about how copper plates added to models are sometimes rather inaccurate looking because of the “nails issue”. He stated that available copper plates have overly large simulated copper nail indentations. He went on to state that, of course, copper plates were attached using counter sunk copper nail heads; indeed barely visible. In any case copper nails should not stand out above the plates. All for obvious reasons – So It got me thinking about how to “improve” the look of the after-market plates that I intend to add to this build. My solution. 1) Use the Model Shipways plates that I had pre-purchased. 2) Using piers flatten all the nail dimples on each plate 3) Flip the plate over and attach those to the hull with the backside facing up. This look more accurately simulates the look of counter-sunk copper nails. Here are a few preliminary photos; The new plate faces certainly looks more “realistic”. PS: Yes – lots and lots of extra time will be needed having to re-work each of the 100s of needed plates. Could be overkill?? Regards,
  11. md1400cs


    Very nice work AND you sea is so well replicated!!
  12. Frank, Just catching up - looking V. Good. Cheers
  13. Mark, Just catching up - as always a pleasure following your excellent work. PS: Your shot framing is so well done! Cheers,
  14. Hi Mates, Minor – catch up post – after taking some yard time off. When I started doing all of these block and carriage bits (again) – having spent five years on the Vasa – I found little motivation – almost shelved this one to bring up the Viking ship from under the table. Then – No – back into this project Still not sure about the cannons – sure like the ones with decorative markings, though not Spanish. That said the kit included ones are certainly more accurate and a bit longer as well. So would look better once installed with carriages fully forward. I think that the blocks are a bit big, though the next size down where way too small. Next bit air brushing the barrels. As always thank for still dropping by --- Cheers,
  15. Thomas, Nice belated update - You hammocks are, as well as everything else, so beautifully scaled. Brilliant work. Regards,

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