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gthursby

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About gthursby

  • Birthday 08/19/1949

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Renfrewshire
  • Interests
    Ships - mainly merchant ships, though there doesn't seem to be many good kits of these.

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  1. I've started to rig my model of Scottish Maid and am thinking of putting sails on her. What is the best stage for doing this? Do I do all the standing rigging first? Should I attach the sails to the yards before rigging the yards? It seems to me that if I put too much rigging on the vessel then I will find lines getting in the way when I try to rig the sails.
  2. So what would you recommend as a reliable source of into for a vessel of the type that I am building?
  3. I've downloaded Petersson's Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft onto my Kindle. Hopefully that will help me
  4. It wasn't supposed to be like this! I bought the kit as a retirement project about 3 years ago (it's been slow going!) and I naively thought that all I would have to do would be to follow the plans and instructions and all would be fine. It soon became apparent that this was not the case; the planking scheme was nonsensical so I had to find out how to do that a bit more realistic. Then I decided to research the ship to make it less anonymous and discovered that the method of locating the bowsprit differed from what McGregor described as the builder's characteristic method and was shown as such on his plans. Various inconsistencies have made me more and more suspicious of Artesania's plans, hence some of the questions here. My wife has pointed out that no-one else looking at the model would know what was right and what was wrong. This is true, but not the point; to me it is a waste of time making something that I think is badly inaccurate; I am trying to do it the best as I can for my own satisfaction rather than for anyone else. I guess that must be the same for most people here.
  5. On the Atesania plans, some lines such as the vangs and topsail sheets appear to terminate at eyebolts on the deck. How would this be done? I'm guessing the the lines are not just tied to the eyebolts. Thanks again to all who have responded to my earlier questions - I seem to be spending more time trying to understand what to do with the different elements of rigging than doing the actual physical work. I think that I'm getting there, albeit slowly, though doubtless there will be many more questions to come!
  6. Thanks for that. I guess that there is no definitive answer and that anything is going to be an educated guess based on knowledge of rigging practices of that era. Looking at the Model Shipwright pics I was wondering how the bands to which the blocks are attached were made. Also in MacGregor's plans and the Artesania model there is a binnacle between the steering wheel and the deckhouse that is not shown in the pics. Is it located elsewhere or omitted entirely? I haven't put one in yet as it seems to me that one placed there would impede the entrance to the deckhouse immediately in front of it.
  7. I'm trying to work out where and how to fit the spanker sheets (I hope that is the correct term ) to the deck of the Scottish Maid. It is very unclear in the kit diagrams. I've looked at the Underhill book (someone gave these to me when I was about 12 and lay untouched for about 50 years!!). I hope that I've got the terminology correct (I presume that these sheets are to control how much the main boom moves). Underills book shows 2 double blocks that can rotate about the boom but doesn't show where the other blocks are attached to the deck. It's very hard to see on the very low resolution diagram in the Underhill book, but they look as though they are attached to the top of the bulwark, though I would have thought this would be unlikely. Also, where would the end of the rope be belayed? Thanks for any help
  8. Thanks for the detailed reply. Probably a silly question but how and where are the "non-pulling" (I've no idea what the technical term is!) ends of the halliards and boom lifts fixed? There looks to be at least 1 block short on the plans diagram to me. The only plans of her that I've found were drawn by David McGregor and these are reconstructions made using drawings etc of similar vessels built by the same builders. I don't own his plans as such, but I photocopied a few pages about her from his book on Fast Sailing Vessels
  9. As I wrote in a post a few days ago I am starting to rig a model of the Scottish Maid using an Artesania kit. I find the rigging instructions confusing to say the least (this is likely to be the first of many!) In the Artesania diagram the rigging for the gaff and boom is very confused. Firstly, I would have thought that the halliards should be attached further along the gaff to give a sensible amount of leverage. Secondly, there doesn't seem to be enough blocks to rig both the gaff and the boom. A diagram that I found in Underhills book shows the boom lift as 2 blocks attached to the tree trestles as shown. Does this seem a sensible arrangement for the Scottish maid? I'm also unclear as to where on the deck these ropes would be anchored. In the kit instructions, after describing planking the hull they say that all the hard work has been done and all you have to do is rig the model as per the diagrams - Ha!
  10. I'm building a model of the Scottish Maid and am in the early stages of rigging her. I'm using the kit guides and also the Underhill book volume 2. The Underhill guide is far more detailed, but uses so many technical terms that I find it very hard to follow. Basically what I would like is a way of understanding which part of the rigging does what as that would help me to get it right (albeit in probably a simplified form). In some cases it is fairly obvious, but the function of some lines I find obscure. I realise that the answer to my question will depend on the type of rig and the era in which the vessel was built.
  11. gthursby

    Chain plates

    I'm building the Artemesia Scottish Maid but am trying to improve the accuracy of certain parts of the construction. Looking at the above posts it seems as though on some occasions the chain plate is a bar whilst on others it is a chain. Any guidelines as to which would be appropriate to the Scottish Maid would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Thanks, Davyboy. I read up on Scottish Maid in MacGregor's "Fast Sailing Ships" book and it appears that most of Hall's plans were destroyed by fire in WWII. Consequently only half models exist and everything else, including the deckhouses, is reconstructed from contemporary paintings etc of her and other similar Hall vessels. Reading the book it seems that a Hall characteristic was to fit the bowsprit with its heel tenoned into the pawl post; however this is not how it appears in Artesinia's plans so that is another modification I will have to make. Fortunately I haven't fitted it yet. I've already built the stern in a different way to them and used walnut planking instead of the supplied mahogany in a hopefully more realistic planking layout, so at the present rate there won't be much of the original kit left!
  13. Thanks davyboy, I did consider that option, but thought that having glazing at deck level would be impractical. Most of the skylights I've seen have had glazing on sloping surfaces on top of a deckhouse. Is it common to have glazing on the side? btw I treat some of Artesenia's plans with some scepticism, hence questions such as this one.
  14. I'm building the Artesania Scottish Maid kit and am puzzled by this deckhouse which they refer to as a skylight. I don't see how it can be a skylight even if the sides were shuttered - it doesn't look like anything else I've seen that is called a skylight. This gives me 2 questions - if it's not a skylight what is it? it's probably only about 3ft tall and has no obvious point of access. Wouldn't a ship of this type need a skylight since all the accommodation is below deck.?
  15. Working with lime planks that are 1.5mm thick an maximum approx 5mm wide, I find it very hard to accurately mark out the shape and then cut then (this is the first layer). They are far too small to saw and I find that a craft knive tends to go offline and follow the grain, no matter how careful I am. Any hints? Thanks

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