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Roks82

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About Roks82

  • Birthday 09/30/1982

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    Slovenia

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  1. Work continued in the shipyard... The lower counter has been planked, I've added some thin lawyer of paper in between to simulate the caulking however seems that it was too thin so some of it tear apart and is not visible throughout the whole length of the planks...lesson learned! Exact sanding on the port and starboard side will be done at a later stage once the side planks are positioned. I had some spare time and decided to make the doors for the beakhead. I think it was easier to make them now considering that the cut out doors on the bulkhead G are much shorter then the pre-cut doors so some careful sanding is required. PS: I am not sure why some pictures are not rotated properly, I am posting the URL from Google Drive and they all look formatted properly there?!
  2. Hi Jim, Thank you so much! Seems that we are both having some issues with emails. I’ve sent one email last week and another one this week....maybe it ended somewhere in the spam folder. I will resend it also from my business email so hopefully you should get it. Anyway I am very happy that you are still in business and that the magic saws are still available
  3. Hello everyone, Does anyone (especially the US colleagues on this forum) know whether Jim Byrnes is still in business? I have placed an order for his magic table saw almost two weeks ago but did not receive any feedback on the shipping charges. I’ve also sent a couple of emails just to make sure that everything is in order but didn’t get any reply either... Rok
  4. After almost a year I have resumed work on my Confederacy in January. Unfortunately I did not have much time to update each single step up to now as I have managed to complete the gunports and beakhead planking (treenailing still to be done). The jig that you see in the below picture is made of scrap MDF that I had at home and was used just for aligning the ports perpendicular to the hull. For the gunports I've decided to go with a red ochre colour as to me looks a bit more authentic for the ships of that era. The first coat was undiluted paint, followed by another 3 coats of diluted paint with some fine sanding between each coat.
  5. Thanks to everyone for the valuable info!
  6. Hi to everyone, I know there are already several similar topics however I have not been able to find an answer on this specific issue. I am currently looking for buying a desktop mill and noticed that most of you are using the Sherline mills. Unfortunately they’re not available in Europe so I would have to ship it from the US and import it in EU. This could be quite expensive so I am looking for alternatives. I’ve been looking for the small mills like the Optimum BF16 Vario. Does anyone has experience with such desktop mills in ship modelling? Are they accurate enough? They are quite heavier then the Sherline or some Proxxon mills so I presume I could use it also for some other milling requirements which is of course an advantage... Any help/advice on this one would be much appreciated. Thanks! Rok
  7. I've finally managed to complete the bow and stern fillings. I am quite satisfied with the bow which was quite easy to do, the stern however is much more difficult as there are not much lines you can follow during the sanding process. Any suggestions / ideas whether the stern shape is ok or should some more be done? Unfortunately I've been too late in reading Dubz/Dirks post about the sanding of the frames 8 and 8B. As you can see from the below picture I had to use some filler to get it back in place, I've also noticed after taking the picture that some additional sanding of the GG part will be needed in order to get it flush with the frame 8.
  8. Although I haven't posted in a while work has continued in my shipyard. The bow filler has been added (I'll post a picture once it's fully sanded), the sub-gun deck platforms have been added and the ship's frames for the cut-away part are in place. For the sub-gun deck platforms I've decided to go with some testing of my caulking and treenailing skills but it was not really required. I am not quite happy with the results as the wood filler creates too much contrast with the planks (too yellowish for my taste) and the spacing of the treenails is not perfect - at least I know what to correct on the deck planks... Can anyone recommend the best solution for the even spacing of the treenails? The framing of the stern is also quite close to completition. You can see from the picture below that I've used a different approach for the checking of the sills position...
  9. Stem, keel and bulkheads in place! I've also spray painted the inside of the sub-gun deck platforms although it was not mentioned in the instructions (maybe I've overprotected the top of the bulkheads as there is some paint missing ).
  10. I've found out that some of the etched references were missing both on the bulkheads and fillers. On the bulkheads I had to draw the reference lines as they were also missing, below also a photo of the fillers marked by hand in case anyone else is missing them too (sorry, I know I have a terrible handwriting).
  11. Thanks to everyone! Seems that each one of us has a different opinion / method. I've raised the question as I found out in some posts that some people tend to avoid using balsa but was not sure why. Definitely pine and basswood offer much more support but it also requires heavier sanding. Since my filler is only used for additional support/shaping of the bow/stern and I am a bit lazy I will stick with balsa
  12. I would like to hear your opinion whether to use balsa as bow and stern filler or would you suggest to use some other type of wood? Thanks for your pros and cons!
  13. The build is continuing with the rabbet strip being glued to the bulkhead former. Since it should be centered I've used an 1/32'' strip to help me guide exactly on position.
  14. Thanks Dirk, will give it a try once I put it together!
  15. I've started laying the keel for this project so I've glued together the two bulkheads. Since I did not have any glass panels I used an aluminium profile to keep it as straight as possible and I am quite happy with the results. You can also see that I've pre-bended the rabbet strip at the same time Waiting for the glue to cure I've cut out the stem assembly and started sanding out the laser burn marks. To my dissapointment they are much tougher to remove then I thought - it actually took away 0,5 mm and the results are still not as I wished. Does anyone have any idea on how much sanding is really required or if there is any other solution how to remove the burns? Below is a comparison between the sanded and unsanded keel.

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