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About knightyo

  • Birthday 10/05/1970

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    Boise, Idaho

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  1. This made me lol and lol. I have a few of these projects as well. 😀 The ship looks great so far! Alan
  2. I also built this model as a kid. It was the neatest model of the bunch! Alan
  3. Greg, Do you show how you affix the brass rod pedestals to your models in any of your logs? I was going to go thru your logs again to see, but am lazy of course, and thought I'd just ask. Alan
  4. If I built a full size boat, it would have 4x4 lumber for frames, as I "overbuild" everything I do in "real life". But yes, I take your point.
  5. I'm going to have to do this at some point; it's just too cool of a project to pass upon. For me, I'd do it fully rigged, but all in pear with no paint. Chuck, any possibility of a 1/64 kit version for those of us with 1/64 Syren's/Confederacy's/Lexington's/Triton's on the blocks? (omg, I know)..... I'd love to have all of my eventual "wood" ships in the same scale tho, even though this would be pretty small. That actually really appeals to me. Alan
  6. Thanks guys! That was fantastic info. I've told myself that I'm not allowed to start a new project until I finish my Syren/Triton, but I'll eventually join in with you guys unless you've modeled the entire navies of all countries by the time I'm ready. lol Alan
  7. Here's a random question... Who do you guys think supplies the best photo-etch materials? Eduard? Tom's Modelworks? Gold Medal? Pontos? I've been looking for a 1/350 set for Tamiya's Fletcher destroyer, but really don't know which supplier provides the best etch! Alan
  8. knightyo


    John, As someone whose grown up on the other side of the country, I don't know if I'd even be able to get out of my car if I knew there were monsters roaming around the course. Alan
  9. Hi Peter, I also recommend taking a look at Chuck's instructions for a copper plate building jig. I overlapped mine (below), and have been happy with the result. I do like the "nails" to show, even though they are larger than they should be. I think they make the model look more interesting from a distance (bottom photo), than if the copper was just smooth... Alan
  10. After I'd finished painstakingly planking my Syren deck, I was extremely excited to apply a Mastic as a final finish. Unfortunately, I'd used Sharpie "permanent" markers to color the edges of the planks, and the Mastic reacted with the ink; my pristine deck looked like someone had slathered mud all over. The next day, a light sanding was able to restore the deck, and now I can look back on that experience and just chuckle. The beauty of our hobby is that we can usually recover our projects when bad things happen. P.S. The mug.... Children are Maggots... lmao.. I must have one.
  11. Is 1:200 scale a requirement? Here's a 1:350 for a hundred bucks and change...... https://www.amazon.com/Trumpeter-Hornet-Aircraft-Carrier-Model/dp/B003PB7K0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517968236&sr=8-1&keywords=trumpeter+hornet
  12. Another vote for Hornet! (With a lot of photo-etch on the planes) Alan
  13. Hi Doug, If you are going to paint the cap rail, it can be done in multiple pieces. I think mine is comprised of at least 5 pieces. Once it's painted/sanded/painted/sanded/painted again, no one will ever know it wasn't one piece. I think I even used a little filler on one of the joints on mine as well. Alan
  14. Me too. I must finish my Syren and Triton, but the temptation to purchase a plastic kit now is almost overwhelming...... lol

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