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knightyo

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About knightyo

  • Birthday 10/05/1970

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    Brownsville, Oregon

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  1. They were just experimenting with fiberglass cannons. Alan
  2. I'd wager that your shipbuilding experience creating stealers had an influence on this solution. Alan
  3. Hello Kai, Since you enjoyed the Hornblower books, I would like to recommend the series by Patrick O'Brien which covers the same era, if you haven't already read them. That series of books is so enjoyable to read that many people read the entire series annually. Alan
  4. From one Oregon introvert to another, welcome aboard! Alan
  5. There are also mini LED's that flicker, simulating fire, that one could install in the fireplace if one wished to go overboard (I couldn't help myself) with the build. Alan
  6. I do it the same way as portrayed in the video, but the tool that works best for me is the edge of my steel ruler. It takes a little while to get the knack, but once you have it, you can create them very quickly Alan
  7. Metalwork around the rudder has been slowly taking place, and the straps are loosely placed on the rudder. They will be further shaped to the rudder and blackened before being permanently affixed (no idea how I'm going to permanently affix these. The wire bolts won't really have any strength long-term, so am really pondering this one). I had quite a learning curve in learning how to uniformly fashion the straps; many, many scrap pieces throughout. The photo also shows the bits of 30 ga wire that will be made into bolts. I'm just laying them down on the strip in the middle to see how the thickness of the wire will look from a scale perspective. I'm thinking of having 2 bolts per plank. The rudder is basically made up of 3 planks. I've also been experimenting with the finish on the hull. Goal is to try and make the finish appear to be as "real/aged" as possible, so there are a lot of green/brown washes on there now in addition to other white washes. The plan is to have shellac on the model, and I'm thinking of extending that down all around the acrylic on the hull as well to give it a bit of a wet/shiny appearance. Still debating that one, however. The gouges in the hull are for the brass tubing in which the lighting will run through from the ship down into the stand where the power source will be. When the tubing has been installed, the keel will be replaced and everything tidied up.
  8. That's actually perfect. If you decide that you've sanded too much off, it's easy to reapply. I applied/removed acrylic to the hull of my Nina for a long, long time until I finally ended up with the look that I liked (applied different wash "layers" with slightly different colors as well. You might be able to get a pretty nice effect by applying washes of greys/greens/browns, showing not only the standard wear of the black, but also the effects of a boat that has been in the water with sea life). As Baker mentioned, it would probably be best to practice on scraps first. It's all your personal choice, however. The model is looking great! Alan
  9. Hi James, I would also fill the spaces between the bulkheads with blocks of wood (balsa would be easiest), and sand to shape. It would then be easier to see the curves with the eye, and also far easier to plank those areas. Alan
  10. Yes! With a flashlight whilst also swearing. Now THAT would be an authentic scene.
  11. You will have to let us know when this moving comes out. It will really be fun to see the ship modeling part, knowing that you helped! It makes me wonder if any of the cast will be drawn to the hobby as a result of seeing your models, the process, etc. (Your Speedwell is looking absolutely stunning) Alan
  12. Hi Loracs, I think your door frames are good as well! I was just thinking that the doors themselves might look better if you made them out of wood as well. Although then that would also require you to create hinges, etc. It never ends how much detail we can put into these projects. Alan
  13. This gave me a good laugh. I guess the good part about it is that a guy would never keep bits and pieces and assorted sawdust on his is table; he'd clean everything up after each session, resulting in a nice and uncluttered work area. The only wood I'd never work with is ebony. I've used it once, and vowed never again. Your project looks fascinating, and I do hope you continue to post your progress. I think a lot of build logs eventually get a comment the builder isn't thrilled with; it's just a function of so many different people from so many different backgrounds/demographics, etc. I've noticed my own posts are different in tone depending upon the time of day and the amount of caffeine in my system. I think the pros of having so many positive and helpful posts however, outweighs the cons of occasional posts which come across as off key. Alan
  14. I love the addition of the inlays! They look great. I'm wondering if you want to do the same type of thing with the doors? The inlays are so well done that the doors almost detract from them. I only offer this as an opinion that is probably not held in the majority. I am a master of going down rabbit holes and never finishing my projects. Alan
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