Jump to content

knightyo

Members
  • Content Count

    230
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About knightyo

  • Birthday 10/05/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boise, Idaho

Recent Profile Visitors

837 profile views
  1. RE the black paper caulking. He probably glued black paper strips on the edges of his planks. (Just one edge, as the "other" side of the plank receives it's caulking from its neighbor plank). I think the easiest and safest way to caulk is by coloring the edges with a graphite pencil. Alan
  2. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Thanks HOF. I might do just that when the last coat of tung has dried. The side with 50/50 tung/mineral spirits turned out very well. I was also able to sand out the "splotchiness" of the starboard rail, and reapply 50/50 tung/mineral, and it came out a lot better. I'm going to repeat that process again, before using 100% tung. I think I can end up with a nice finish on this, in the end. Am currently bending the last "ribs" on the ships boat. Once dried and sanded, I'll take photos. I'll be glad to be finished with that part. Glenns.. I've sure thought about it (still am :)) , but I really want to finish this one and get back to my Syren… Alan
  3. Roughly where my Nina stands. Am currently working on the ship's boat. Alan
  4. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Still fiddling with the finish on the main model. This morning I applied a 50/50 mixture of tung/mineral spirits to the "virgin" sections. We'll see how it goes. I also began cutting out my pre-soaked/bent "side ribs" to place next to the "ribs" on the bottom of the boat. Once the ribs have been installed, I'll cut the tops off of them on each side, as another plank will be running along the top of the inside of the boat under the rail. I'll also sand all of the ribs smooth and uniform. However... This morning when I began dry placing a few side ribs in the boat, I realized that all the ribs were far, far too wide! There's a part of me which wants to go ahead and install the rest of them, but the part that will win out is the part which knows that overly wide ribs will drive me nuts. Now the question is how to thin them. The bottom ribs have already been glued. It actually might be easiest to install them all, and sand them in place as opposed to trying to sand the remainder before installing.. They are so small, they are pretty hard to handle. Alan
  5. Bob, I'd heard that as well. I'm using Formby's. I'm not at home right now, but I'm pretty sure it isn't real tung oil. I have to admit I'd wondered if my model would spontaneously combust or not. Alan
  6. Fantastic replies! I have a lot of thinking to do. And it may in fact be more logical/quicker for me to draw everything out by hand. Phil, those are great examples. The curved planking is exactly what I'm wishing to draw, with hook scarfs where needed. Alan
  7. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Thanks! One thing I've noticed about working on this one is that no real "mess" is created during construction which sure isn't the case with our larger models. They are very good wintertime desk projects. Alan
  8. Hi Jim, kind of... Hook Scarfs.. Phil, you hit the nail on the head regarding the time spent learning a new program taking time away from actual work on the model. My goal is definitely to print 2D plans. I'll also definitely need the ability to draw in exact scale.. Alan
  9. Excellent feedback. Thank you! I'll fiddle with what I've already done, then thin the oil with mineral spirits, and proceed according to the above instruction. Mark, no danger of glue spots on this one. I'd sanded the rails down with progressively finer grits until the last phase, which was done with a grit almost as fine as paper. I do wonder if the surface was "too" smooth, not allowing the oil to penetrate properly... Alan
  10. It looks like I have an interesting experiment on my hands (below). The right side of the back rail has had tung oil applied, and apparently the back rail received a few drops as well. The "splotchiness" of the finish has been an unfortunate surprise. I've been reading logs regarding tung oil; it appears that some people apply directly to the model at 100% strength, whereas others apply a 50/50 mixture of tung and mineral spirits. I suspect now that I should have applied a 50/50 mixture to avoid splotchiness. Thoughts? I've also heard that "more is better", and that splotchiness can be overcome with more coats. I can go that route, or apply mineral spirits now to remove what has been done to date. Thoughts? I'm not sure how to proceed. The frustrating thing is that I tested the tung oil at 100% strength on identically sanded samples, and none of them revealed the splotchiness effect. Just this rail. The sides also look acceptable with just the "shiyiness" aspect to address.... Alan
  11. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Below is the dillema. Again, the right side of the rail has had tung oil applied, and apparently the back rail received a few drops as well. lol. The "splotchiness" of the finish is very disheartening. I've been reading logs regarding tung oil; it appears that some people apply directly to the model at 100% strength, whereas others apply a 50/50 mixture of tung and mineral spirits. I suspect now that I should have applied a 50/50 mixture to avoid splotchiness. Thoughts? I've also heard that "more is better", and that splotchiness can be overcome with more coats. I can go that route, or apply mineral spirts to it now to remove what has been done to date. I'm not sure how to proceed. I'll also post this dilemma in the Finishes part of the site to gather input as well. The frustrating thing is that I tested the tung oil at 100% strength on identically sanded samples, and none of them revealed the splotchiness effect. Just this rail. The sides also look acceptable with just the "shinyness" aspect to address.... Alan
  12. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    This photo shows the "shinyness" of the applied tung oil which is on the right side rail. This doesn't bother me a great deal, as I figure some type of matt finish can be applied over the top.... However, the below photo shows the real problem....
  13. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Tung oil has been applied to this side of the model. It doesn't look bad. EXCEPT in the following pics......
  14. knightyo

    Nina by Alan - Mini-Mamoli 1:106

    Here's where I'm at so far (still working on the "ribs" of the small boat). The bottom portions of the ribs have been installed. Once the sides of the ribs have been installed, I'll sand everything to a uniform thickness within the hull. At that scale, it's really been a challenge so far. I hope it turns out ok in the end.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×