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  1. Ahoy Mates Same thing happened to me the other day. I am a leadite and still use AOL,so I went to Explorer tonight and loged in there and was able to post a reply here. Since I am stupid when it comes to anything but the basic things on a computer, What Chuck and others said to do is way out of my skill level. Glade that this is just one of my weak spots. Just happy to be able to still post now. Same thing happened a while back when I could not access about half of the listed sites on the right including Syren. Keith
  2. Ahoy Mates This has been a very rewarding thing we do for people. It started out with one of our members Ken who passed away almost 2 years ago now. When he passed away he was 92 and one of our most active members. He was a WW2 vet. Army Air Corp. B17 mechanic . Ken was about 70% threw his build of the Latina Nina kit which we had as a group build. After attending his memorial at his home,we asked Doris his widow if we could finish up the Nina for the family. We each took a different parts to finish and one made up a glass case for it. We presented it to Doris and her family with an engraved plate. We have made it a central part of our group to do these types of things,Captain Dan in our group is a retired teacher who still sub's in the Portland schools,and we donate built models for their fund raising each year. And Dan also teaches kids how to make ship's in bottles. This week he is teaching 3 kids in his neighborhood how to do it. Thanks for the kind words,hope others will be inspired to do the same around the model ship building community here. Keith
  3. Ahoy Mates Just completed the 1884 Sequin Tug build for the Stern Family. This model along with a Flying Cloud and Viking ship models were started years ago by Mr Stern who has since passed due to Parkensen's disease. Our building Group has the honor of finishing these models so that his 3 surving children-two brothers and one sister and their families have a model that their father built. The family in return donated his collection of unstarted model kits to our group. Bulejacket also furnished me with the decals for the Sequin build since they had been lost over the years. Mr Stern had built the Sequin hull up to the deck level when he was unable to continue on this build years ago. I have finished the build and used the Model Expo building stand for it's display base. Mr Stern had made the jig form the Model Expo kit. The finishing of the Sequin has taken 2 months to complete. At our Meeting this Saturday we will present the Stern Family with this completed model so that they will have a model that their father built. The other two are coming along now in their builds. It's a great honor to be able to give a family a model now completed that they can pass on to their children that their father had built. Keith
  4. Ahoy Mates Trying to find what color the mascot of the 1884 Sequin Tug was. It's a large rooster that was on top of the Pilot House. Need to know what color or colors it was threw the long life of the tug. I am finishing up the Bluejacket kit of it,and am at the point of finishing it up,and the last thing to paint is the rooster. Thanks Keith
  5. Ahoy Mark Thanks,will check Lowes Monday,it's just 3 minutes from my house. Look forward to the photos of your cases. Keith
  6. Ahoy Mate Thanks for the information on the case building. But what I really need is some plans showing different ways of making the wood frames of a case. Please,if anyone knows of where I can see case plans,please direct me to it. Thanks Keih
  7. Ahoy Mates I am looking for plans for a glass case. I have purchased the slotted wood strips for the corners and cross beams for the case from Cornwall Model Boats. The strips are slotted for 3mm glass. The case size that I need for my Mary Rose model is 40" L X 29" H X 15-1/2" W. I want to use the 1/2" square slotted strips to frame the case all around. I will mount the case on a Ikea made sideboard- narrow high table with shelves under the top. It stands 35" high,16-1/2" W X 47.5" . I will screw the bottom frames of the case to the top. I need sugestions on what to do and what NOT TO DO in making this case,along with plans on how to miter the corners using these wood strips. I know that Chuck is also looking ofr plans for a case for his Cheerful model just completed. Thanks Keith
  8. Using ammonia to bend wood.

    Ahoy Kurt What did the scientist say about using ammonia for bending? What are the negatives as to what it does to wood short term and long? Keith
  9. Using ammonia to bend wood.

    Ahoy Kurt I just took two strips out of the ammonia bottle and clamped them on the pilot house to bend to shape. They are 1/32 X 1/16" boxwood. The only wood that I have had problems with is basswood. It has very open grain structure and turns grey throughout when ammonia is used. Works great. I soak mine from a couple of hours to 24 hours. The thinner strips around the Pilot House are 1/32 sq. swiss pear that ammonia was used on. Keith
  10. Hello Anja

     

    You can see photos on the IPMS Seattle web site. When you get on just pick the Spring Show 2017 gallery. You will see me talking and pointing out something in the photo of my Mary Rose.

     

    Here's what I came home with. And Pickels took over what he considered "His Awards"

     

    Had a great time at the show. Sorry,but I did not take but a few photos due to talking to people about my Mary Rose.And Joe from Seattle who had bested me last year with his sailing ship model,came in second to me this year with his North Sea Anchor Tug in 1/100 totally scratch built. He's a freind of mine who lives in Seattle. I live in Troutdale,Oregon just east of Portland 180 miles south of Seattle. Check out our building groups blog site at www.woodenshipclass.blogspot.com  and you can see my progress on all my wooden ship builds and what Iam am and every member's work.

     

    I use Radek's blocks,Syren Minature Rope,deadeyes,Wood Source and Crown Timberyard swiss pear and boxwwod.

     

    Keith

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    1. Anja

      Anja

      Thanks for sharing Keith, and congratulations on winning first prize. Your Mary Rose looks great.  Your cat is guarding the prize for you.

       

      It was nice looking around on the sites and reading the stories.

       

      Regards,

      Anja

       

       

  11. Ahoy Popeye You are correct Sailor Man! It is a Victory hull. You did not see the shelf with my other "in progress" builds. You would have seen a 1/35 S Boat,1/72 Type VII Minelayer,1/72 Skipjack,1/35 Dora Railway Gun, 1/350 Yorktown,Essex and Akagi aircraft carriers,1/72 Flower Class Corvette. And that's not all. I have enough for two or three lifetimes. This August at our IPMS Club swap meet and BBQ here in Portland I will have a table of kits that I will be selling off. Now days I sell about ten kits to maybe one new one that I buy. I plan to sell 80% of what you see in the photos this year. So if there's a kit you see that you want,let me know. They go for far less than retail prices. Have a great day building. Keith
  12. Ahoy Mates Well here's some of my stash of kits in my 3 car garage. Ranging from vintage balsa gliders-up to 12' wing span,armor,cars,RC boats,live steam engines castings kits,wooden ships,aircraft and trains. The vintage kits and resin kits are in the house,not shown. I have been selling them off for the last 8 years. I had double what is shown then.Ifr you see a kit that you want to get,just contact me by PM here at MSW. Keith
  13. Ahoy Mates I have used files that were "sharpened " with acid. They are fine for soft things like balsa,but the acid thins out the "teeth" and anything harder just dulls them very afst. Lesson learned-Buy good ones to begin with and treat them like I was told by a Master Tool Maker-my Dad when I was old enough to start using his files at home. Keep them clean-brush the teeth out with a BRASS BRUSH,and DO NOT PUT THEM AWAY IN CONTACT WITH METAL OBJECTS_LIKE OTHER FILES. He had drawers with wooden drawer with wood dividers that only one would go into each slot. O)r have a leather or canvas roll up with slots for each file,so that they are protected. Treat them as what would be the way a chef stores his expensive knives. In a roll up. That way when you buy an expensive file that could last you years if you use it as it should,it WILL. Cheap chinese or other low grade files are just what they are-cheap. But even those should be handles this way. And they too will last longer,but not like high grade ones. I now use diamond files for a lot of my model work. The thing I like about them is that they can be used in any direction,where as files cut in one direction,except ofr some types. High grade files are not easy to find these days except for quality tool stores. When you find the style and maker you like,stock up on them for future use. Because you never know when they might not be for sale any more due to closure of the maker or the place where you buy them quits carrying them due to lack of sales with competion of the crap cheap ones. There are many styles to chose from. Learn which ones will be best for you and write down what works best for you,and where to buy them. I have files that are over 60 years old,and still use them. Yes they do get dull,but making models is not like filing on D2 tool steel each day. One trcik you can use is that if you are filing aluminum or steel,take some stick of chalk,yes what you use on a black board to write with,and load up the file teeth with it before you use the file. This will prevent the teeth from loading up solid with the material you are filing,and make it easy to clean after use. It will also prevent chips from loading up and marking the metal you are filing. And NEVER OIL A FILE! or put WD40 on one. This will only make the file slide over what you want to cut. If you are worried about the file rusting,keep it in a temp controlled area,where there is not a lost of humidity where temp changes will cause moisture to condense on the metal surfaces. A unheated garage is not a good place to keep files. And do not wipe your hand over metal that you are filing on,your hand oils will be just like putting oil on it. But if you do,clean it off with a degreaser before filing again. After learning this from my Dad over 50 years ago now,it has been one thing of many that he was totally right about. The money you would spend on acid and neutralizer and gloves and containers to acid sharpen your cheap files will be better spent on good files to begin with. And you will not be in any danger from use of acid,and then you have to dispose of it safely. Just but good files to begin with. Keith
  14. Ahoy -E.J. Your right,and it felt great to be on top of all the plastic model ships and sub's at the show with their PE and complex paint jobs. Keith
  15. Ahoy Mates Here's what I did to celebrate the completion of the Mary Rose last Saturday. I entered it in the IPMS Seattle Show in Non-Powered Ships All Scales. And came home with three new things to put with it when it goes into a case. Now to work on the other 3 ships that I have in different stages of building. Amati Nina,Syren Cheerful,Pan Art Royal Caroline. Maybe I will "Celebrate" next year with one of these in Seattle. I do not expect to have the same things to bring home. You never know what will happen at shows. Oh, the third thing is the smile on my face that has yet to go away.And all the good remarks of people said to me about the ship and the questions they had for me on it's build. That's even better than the two awards. Keith
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