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  1. Ahoy Mark Thanks,will check Lowes Monday,it's just 3 minutes from my house. Look forward to the photos of your cases. Keith
  2. Ahoy Mate Thanks for the information on the case building. But what I really need is some plans showing different ways of making the wood frames of a case. Please,if anyone knows of where I can see case plans,please direct me to it. Thanks Keih
  3. Ahoy Mates I am looking for plans for a glass case. I have purchased the slotted wood strips for the corners and cross beams for the case from Cornwall Model Boats. The strips are slotted for 3mm glass. The case size that I need for my Mary Rose model is 40" L X 29" H X 15-1/2" W. I want to use the 1/2" square slotted strips to frame the case all around. I will mount the case on a Ikea made sideboard- narrow high table with shelves under the top. It stands 35" high,16-1/2" W X 47.5" . I will screw the bottom frames of the case to the top. I need sugestions on what to do and what NOT TO DO in making this case,along with plans on how to miter the corners using these wood strips. I know that Chuck is also looking ofr plans for a case for his Cheerful model just completed. Thanks Keith
  4. Ahoy Mates Thanks for your help. The parts have been mailed to me now. They shipped them just 4 days total from when I emailed them in Spain. Great customer service. Keith
  5. Ahoy Dilbert55 Just after I posted this,I found just where you suggested to go. I have emailed them and wait to hear about the parts replacement. Thanks Keith
  6. Ahoy Mates I have a kit of the Red Dragon ship model from Arteasania-Latina . It came with a wrong laser cut sheet. The sheet that has the bulkheads and keel is for another kit. All the rest of the parts are for the Red Dragon. I have gone to the company web site,but there is no email address. Where can I get a replacement part sheet for this kit? It was bought years ago,and was still sealed. Do not know where it was purchased from. Thanks Keith
  7. Ahoy Kurt What did the scientist say about using ammonia for bending? What are the negatives as to what it does to wood short term and long? Keith
  8. Ahoy Kurt I just took two strips out of the ammonia bottle and clamped them on the pilot house to bend to shape. They are 1/32 X 1/16" boxwood. The only wood that I have had problems with is basswood. It has very open grain structure and turns grey throughout when ammonia is used. Works great. I soak mine from a couple of hours to 24 hours. The thinner strips around the Pilot House are 1/32 sq. swiss pear that ammonia was used on. Keith
  9. Hello Anja

     

    You can see photos on the IPMS Seattle web site. When you get on just pick the Spring Show 2017 gallery. You will see me talking and pointing out something in the photo of my Mary Rose.

     

    Here's what I came home with. And Pickels took over what he considered "His Awards"

     

    Had a great time at the show. Sorry,but I did not take but a few photos due to talking to people about my Mary Rose.And Joe from Seattle who had bested me last year with his sailing ship model,came in second to me this year with his North Sea Anchor Tug in 1/100 totally scratch built. He's a freind of mine who lives in Seattle. I live in Troutdale,Oregon just east of Portland 180 miles south of Seattle. Check out our building groups blog site at www.woodenshipclass.blogspot.com  and you can see my progress on all my wooden ship builds and what Iam am and every member's work.

     

    I use Radek's blocks,Syren Minature Rope,deadeyes,Wood Source and Crown Timberyard swiss pear and boxwwod.

     

    Keith

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    1. Anja

      Anja

      Thanks for sharing Keith, and congratulations on winning first prize. Your Mary Rose looks great.  Your cat is guarding the prize for you.

       

      It was nice looking around on the sites and reading the stories.

       

      Regards,

      Anja

       

       

  10. Ahoy Popeye You are correct Sailor Man! It is a Victory hull. You did not see the shelf with my other "in progress" builds. You would have seen a 1/35 S Boat,1/72 Type VII Minelayer,1/72 Skipjack,1/35 Dora Railway Gun, 1/350 Yorktown,Essex and Akagi aircraft carriers,1/72 Flower Class Corvette. And that's not all. I have enough for two or three lifetimes. This August at our IPMS Club swap meet and BBQ here in Portland I will have a table of kits that I will be selling off. Now days I sell about ten kits to maybe one new one that I buy. I plan to sell 80% of what you see in the photos this year. So if there's a kit you see that you want,let me know. They go for far less than retail prices. Have a great day building. Keith
  11. Ahoy Mates Well here's some of my stash of kits in my 3 car garage. Ranging from vintage balsa gliders-up to 12' wing span,armor,cars,RC boats,live steam engines castings kits,wooden ships,aircraft and trains. The vintage kits and resin kits are in the house,not shown. I have been selling them off for the last 8 years. I had double what is shown then.Ifr you see a kit that you want to get,just contact me by PM here at MSW. Keith
  12. Ahoy Mates I have used files that were "sharpened " with acid. They are fine for soft things like balsa,but the acid thins out the "teeth" and anything harder just dulls them very afst. Lesson learned-Buy good ones to begin with and treat them like I was told by a Master Tool Maker-my Dad when I was old enough to start using his files at home. Keep them clean-brush the teeth out with a BRASS BRUSH,and DO NOT PUT THEM AWAY IN CONTACT WITH METAL OBJECTS_LIKE OTHER FILES. He had drawers with wooden drawer with wood dividers that only one would go into each slot. O)r have a leather or canvas roll up with slots for each file,so that they are protected. Treat them as what would be the way a chef stores his expensive knives. In a roll up. That way when you buy an expensive file that could last you years if you use it as it should,it WILL. Cheap chinese or other low grade files are just what they are-cheap. But even those should be handles this way. And they too will last longer,but not like high grade ones. I now use diamond files for a lot of my model work. The thing I like about them is that they can be used in any direction,where as files cut in one direction,except ofr some types. High grade files are not easy to find these days except for quality tool stores. When you find the style and maker you like,stock up on them for future use. Because you never know when they might not be for sale any more due to closure of the maker or the place where you buy them quits carrying them due to lack of sales with competion of the crap cheap ones. There are many styles to chose from. Learn which ones will be best for you and write down what works best for you,and where to buy them. I have files that are over 60 years old,and still use them. Yes they do get dull,but making models is not like filing on D2 tool steel each day. One trcik you can use is that if you are filing aluminum or steel,take some stick of chalk,yes what you use on a black board to write with,and load up the file teeth with it before you use the file. This will prevent the teeth from loading up solid with the material you are filing,and make it easy to clean after use. It will also prevent chips from loading up and marking the metal you are filing. And NEVER OIL A FILE! or put WD40 on one. This will only make the file slide over what you want to cut. If you are worried about the file rusting,keep it in a temp controlled area,where there is not a lost of humidity where temp changes will cause moisture to condense on the metal surfaces. A unheated garage is not a good place to keep files. And do not wipe your hand over metal that you are filing on,your hand oils will be just like putting oil on it. But if you do,clean it off with a degreaser before filing again. After learning this from my Dad over 50 years ago now,it has been one thing of many that he was totally right about. The money you would spend on acid and neutralizer and gloves and containers to acid sharpen your cheap files will be better spent on good files to begin with. And you will not be in any danger from use of acid,and then you have to dispose of it safely. Just but good files to begin with. Keith
  13. Ahoy -E.J. Your right,and it felt great to be on top of all the plastic model ships and sub's at the show with their PE and complex paint jobs. Keith
  14. Ahoy Mates Here's what I did to celebrate the completion of the Mary Rose last Saturday. I entered it in the IPMS Seattle Show in Non-Powered Ships All Scales. And came home with three new things to put with it when it goes into a case. Now to work on the other 3 ships that I have in different stages of building. Amati Nina,Syren Cheerful,Pan Art Royal Caroline. Maybe I will "Celebrate" next year with one of these in Seattle. I do not expect to have the same things to bring home. You never know what will happen at shows. Oh, the third thing is the smile on my face that has yet to go away.And all the good remarks of people said to me about the ship and the questions they had for me on it's build. That's even better than the two awards. Keith
  15. Ahoy Mates This is my "epic model" starting with the Caldercraft Jotika 1/80 Mary Rose 1545 kit. Using it as a starting point and under 4 years of off and on work and scratch building 90% of the final model.With a Mary Rose library section now on the shelves here at home. The kit was not epic for sure. I have yet to see an "EPIC KIT" as what I would call it. My standard would be: Good planking wood in the kit-boxwood,swiss pear,cherry. Not the standard crap that's in all kits now being sold up to now. Sorry,but true. Have wide enough strips for spieling of planks on the hull. Not just narrow ones that have to be bent and twisted like a pretzel for the hull shape. If not,just make a "short kit" in planking where the buyer buys his own planking wood,with a kit price reduced for not including this wood. Goes for deck planking also. PE parts that are of the quality that can now be made-more than just the flat shape with maybe just rivets details-PE like what is made for other modeling areas-3d cutting with multi level etched details,and brass that is thicker to scale and not of soft hardness. Up to date scale details- either resin cast or CNC made and 3d printed for carved details,or more than the cast brass blobs that kits have had for the past 50 years now. Or investment cast brass parts-stay away from white metal. NO High density MDF-use multi high quality plywood for frames and non showing keels,with boxwood or other hardwood for keel that shows. If MDF is proving to be great-Please show me how and why it is! Laser cut details like what Syren does now. For me no small scale models-1/64 or 1/72-must be 1/48. I have not seen the kits from Croatia yet,but they look great and are much closer to what could be an "Epic KIT" I am just tried of seeing other areas of modeling advance in using new ways to make kits and increase the quality and details ,and not in wooden ship models except for Syren and Chucks detail kits and "short kits". Sorry if I have been too blunt and opinionated IMHO. Keith