M.R.Field

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  1. Well, in that case, Chuck, I think we have a deal. I am in the process of working out how many of each I need. I already have deadeyes, so it's just blocks I'll need. Probably best to stick with all 6" diameter. Actually, I've just worked out the numbers and especially the postage, make it unviable. I have to be very careful financially as I am retired now, so back to the bench, but many thanks for your time and I will recommend your excellent products wherever I can. Cheers, Martin
  2. Crossed posts there. Very nice looking model indeed. A period of superb elegance. If you ever want to do 6" (3/8") blocks I would be very interested. I suppose I should add up just how many I will need. My problem is this is a working model, so it may be that I can't use blocks as much as I hoped because quick rigging and adjustability may be a priority. I have never sailed scale before. I have sailed almost nothing before! Cheers, Martin
  3. Ah, I have just had a look at your website, Chuck and find that your prices are excellent, BUT you stop just short of where I need to be! I need 3/8" blocks. There were some 5" blocks used, so I might very well send off for some of your 8mm kits. Very nicely designed stuff. Lovely looking website too, which always goes down well with me. Cheers, Martin
  4. Very nice, Chuck, but I dread to think how much by the time they get to England, what with having to pay the postman a tax bill, which I WILL NOT do. I can buy from Modelling Timbers too and they are very fairly priced for the work involved, but the numbers I need make it unviable. Here's my one, a model of a 6" block, with a turned cap, in which a hook is soldered. The cap then has its stem superglued in to a tight fitting hole. The stem of the cap has grooves turned in it to help with the glue. If that doesn't hold (although it seems to be at present), I will have to replicate Chuck's very nice ones, with the difference of having hooks in the top of some of them. Cheers, Martin
  5. Hmm, many thanks, gents. I was unaware of the internally stropped type and they must be what my boat had. I am indeed talking about 1/16th scale, but I'm not sure I want to fiddle about with internal stropping even in that scale. I was so pleased with my system for making the blocks by a form of mass production, that to make internal frames would put that right back to square one, but then it might be that to put any load on a scale block might mean doing so. I'm not sure I have the patience to make internal frames for dozens of blocks! There are no rope stropped blocks on the boat as far as I can tell. Or externally iron stropped ones. Thanks for your input, gents. Martin
  6. Hi all, I have just made a block using a method of my own (I assume), but it seems that most blocks used in yachts of "my" period (1880s) have an iron hook on one end. Now, making the hook and the lump it grows from is not a problem, but just how do you ensure it stays put when there's such a small glue area to rely upon? Martin
  7. Ha! I now discover that Dixon Kemp is online , all 486 pages of it! And everything I need is there. Whether Vanity had the cordage and arrangements that are illustrated, I'll never know, but there's enough there to give me explanations. But you can't beat a book open in front of you and there are pages of lines and arrangements which on the online version are part folded and unclear. But yes, gents. If you want to know anything about yachts of that period, Dixon Kemp has it. Many thanks for your help. Martin
  8. I have ordered a copy of Dixon Kemp's Manual of Yacht and Boat Sailing in paperback from Amazon. The guys on Wooden Boat forum recommended it. I could have paid £450 or 147 or 57. I got this one for £12-71 from just up the road! Cheers, Martin
  9. Frankie, oddly I have only just left that site as there was too much coming through that didn't really interest me! And then you get these, most of which I haven't seen before. I have seen a Partridge video, but not this one. Some useful stuff there for the bowsprit problem. I can never see how a gaff rig can use backstays as surely the sail will clobber them very quickly!? Many thanks, Martin
  10. Both Marigold and Partridge are still sailing, having been only recently restored, but have differences. I have never had luck getting replies from owners, but I have rejoined Wooden Boat forum and asked there. Thanks for the reminder. I don't have endless time to wait though. The years march on and I would like to use this model. I only do boats during the summer, which over here is a short one, so researches have to be quick and fruitful. But I thank you for your interest and suggestions. Cheers, Martin
  11. Frankie, I've had a look through lazyjacks and despite a lovely selection, nothing close enough or English enough. So I went over to Bekens of Cowes gallery and once again, nothing close enough to show any detail and they are the pictures I need. Thanks for your interest, but this period of English yachts is not at all well catered for beyond the distant "oh, how lovely" type of shot. So, as the only thing I can see shows a set of blocks, that's what it'll have to be. But were the bowsprit shrouds in those days of change wire or rope? Was the bobstay copper? I think it'll have to be guess work. With only 2 such boats still extant and those different from each other, it's a case of best guess and nobody can prove otherwise. Cheers, Martin
  12. That surprises me! Maybe then they were used on something like Vanity. Of course there's no guarantee a modern restoration isn't using modern stuff, but I would love to use more of Modelling Timbers wonderful and inexpensive turnbuckles. I have just found some more pics of Partridge so am about to see what that has. Martin
  13. Actually, Frankie, there is almost no documentation for yachts of this period. Since Vanity was allowed to rot where she sits in Bristol there are only 2 such yachts surviving, Partridge and Marigold and Marigold is of a slightly later era with many features considered modern when she was built. These were very different from American yachts, so I can't use them for details and finding evidence of smaller vessels of a similar style isn't easy either. What few photos exist are all quite distant, to show the whole vessel in one shot. I take your point about what MUST be there, but that doesn't help when there are widely different possibilities. I don't see a bottle screw being used on an 1886 yacht. She used deadeyes for the main shrouds for instance. Martin
  14. Allan, I think the bottle screws would not have been around in 1885/6, so I assume the rope will have been spliced round thimbles and maybe then attached with shackles or possibly a single block for each shroud. I have no idea what a back rope is and I'm sure there were no footropes on a yacht's bowsprit. I also don't know where the line on the eyebolt goes. I was hoping someone could tell me. Cheers, Martin
  15. Allan, thanks. I'm sure the Chappelle estate wouldn't mind if you put up a page. The yacht was built in 1885/6 as Mary, but was renamed a couple of times and her last registration was as Vanity. I dislike the name Mary, so Vanity it is. I have seen her registration in the Lloyds register, crossed out in red ink and "Became houseboat" written over the registration on March 17th 1917 IIRC. The eyebolts I mention are like these on Partridge, which is very like Vanity in period and style. Cheers, Martin