Old Collingwood

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About Old Collingwood

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  1. Happy Holidays and Seasons Greetings to Everyone, hope you have a peacful time and good health and a great start to 2017 :) OC
  2. Thanks Joe, lucklely none went on the sides just under the hull. OC
  3. Thanks Joe, i wondered if it was down to the layer of PVA i had painted over the hull? OC
  4. Hi Ken, Yep i washed both hull sections with washing up liquid then rinsed off with warm running water and left to dry before working on them, i then glued my paper hull plates on firstly with wttle glue PVA but then had to settle them down with Revell contacta poly cement, i then sanded these down. I am not sure if it may have been areas of white glue that may have stopped the primer sticking well, or just me not giving the primer enough time to fully harden before sanding? OC
  5. I tried the Vallejo Primer dilluted it 50/50 with distilled water from a kettle after it had cooled, i applied it in many fine layers with a flat 8cm brush, i let it dry for about 15 hrs and tried to do a bit of light sanding with a fine sanding stick that had been dulled to make it smoother, but it was pulling at the paint peeling away instead of sabding it finely - what could be the problem? OC
  6. Interesting thoughtfull work there Izzy, like i have said before - it is amazing what you can achieve with a plastic kit out of a box - some bits and pieces - tolls and a lot of patience in my younger days i have built Her ladyship Vic in a few different forms, from a ship in a bottle, the Airfix version and later the Part Works one by De-Ag, the last one was part made and i had a build going on on here on the earlier forum before it all went ...up. I lost my build and a lot of parts due to a house move. OC
  7. Hiya, I discovered the trick with liquid poly( Revell Contacta) as a fixing agent, i worked out my line cut the right size strip then put a thin line of cement before placing the paper strip, i then smeared a small amount with m finger ontop. once set (about a day) i then did a series of light sanding with a fine nail sanding strip, and re smearing of a thin layer of poly cement. OC.
  8. Hi all, I am simulating the Hull Plates on my HMS Warspite plastic build using paper strips, i am fixing them down using good old PVA/Wood glue and after, i am applying a thin wash over with diluted PVA. Will this be ok for fixing them and will a few layers of Acrylic Primer help to lock them down before painting them with another Acrylic paint layer. OC.
  9. I was wondering about the bottom hull red color on my HMS Warspite build, i know British Second World War ships used a paint called RN19 Anti Fouling Red, i still have some Red Ochre that i was using on my Napoleonic period RN build inner bulkheads/gun ports. Could i use this paint to simulate the Anti Fouling paint? as i belive it is a very early version of Red Oxide, so possibly later paints used on the bottom of RN hulls may have been based around this type of color? Any ideas folks please. OC
  10. I am really appreciating the replies folks, thanks to all, another question from my never ending list - what sort of ratio would you water down an Acrylic paint from a new bottle/tin etc, say 50/50 or is that to much making it to runny? And also any thoughts on a good WW11 battleship Bottom Hull color, i am kind of leaning towards Vallejo Hull Red color, but as Royal Navy ships used a color called RN19 Anti Fouling Red, i dont know how different the two might be? Sorry for all the questions folks but any ideas please? OC
  11. I have just picked up some blue low tack tape so with any luck this will do? i will try the trick with taking some of the stickiness off them laying them on some glass/tile etc first. OC
  12. Thanks Joe, have you any tips or advice on masking tape for the Boot line(as HMS Warspite has a lot of details to mask around) and for the camo Stripes/bands as i assume these would not have been hard sharp edged and more of a feather edge? OC
  13. How about conventional household wall filler mixed with a bit of PVA glue, would that not work in areas like covering up port holes etc? OC
  14. Hi Joe, I have just ordered a white Vallejo primer in Acrylic and also the authentic WW11 western approaches range from a company called LifeColor, again in Acrylic, i have also ordered from Vallejo their sand colored Acrylic that i will add some light grey to - to simulate bleached salt worn wooden planking. I already have a bottle of Acrylic red ocre that i am hoping to use for the bottom RN anti fouling red hull paint, my plan is to assemble both sides of the hull minus the deck and prime this after a thorough wash with detergent and water, then i was going to mark of the Boot topping line and paint the Red hull first, then after a few days allowing to dry, i was going to mask the top of the Boot line then paint it black. Then afterwards move on to masking the patterning and painting sowly each section. OC
  15. Many thanks or your advice - the more the merry-er, i have a good selection of brushes and i am use to painting by brush most smaller sized models, and with acrylics i only started using them with my admiralty range on my wood build. As i am now building a 1/350 scale plastic a ship build in plastic will be the largest i have built/painted, so this is why i was wondering about the best way to paint the expense area of the hull? i can break the painting up into sub-sections i think? by masking off sections of armour, and try to get a smaller area to fill with paint easier from the brush, i just dont like the idea of having to fill an area from bow to stern about 20" in one sweep, i think that will be asking for an un smooth finish by anyones standards? OC