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RMC

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About RMC

  • Birthday 05/27/1946

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    Sydney Australia

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  1. Thanks for your good wishes Rob. I couldn't resist. I have had a very close look at the Anatomy of a Ship. The lids are NOT quite flush with the counter. So here is my solution and the process of taking off a layer of planking was rather fraught. At the moment the lid is dry-fitted and the photos exaggerate the faults. Obviously it needs to be touched up, but once painted, should look quite acceptable. All I have to do is a similar job on the other side - but that really will have to wait.
  2. Thanks GrandpaPhil as one grandpa to another. Peter: good to hear from you. I don't know about withdrawal - it's more like a hangover. I am finally having a table built for it so I can get it out of my work room. Back to the Granado: unfortunately I think you are right. If I stuck the damn things on as is, it would niggle at me. It will have to wait however. I will be going away for about four weeks next Thursday and there are the usual jobs to be done beforehand. One thing to which I shall look forward is a visit to the Mary Rose museum in Portsmouth. The last time we were there it was closed while all the preservative sprays etc. were switched off.
  3. There are now 3 coats of paint on the stern counter. Despite appearances in the photos, it doesn't look too bad in the flesh. Nothing has yet been touched up. I will sand it back a little to improve the finish, then put 2 coats of polyurethane on it. As an experiment I have made a couple of stern vents. The instructions suggest that to give an appearance of the vents, scribing their outline on the counter which I would prefer not to do. Here is the painted stern counter. The vents. They are less than 1mm thick, but I think I can make them fractionally thinner. The vents simply resting on the counter. The shadows exaggerate their thickness. I am undecided whether to go ahead - opinions are welcome.
  4. Oh .... I forgot. The hole provided for the rudder on the stern counter ply is too small and the wrong shape.
  5. The instructions suggest the next steps are to attach the stern fascia and counter. The fascia does not provide a problem: the stern counter certainly does. The only practical way of working on it requires the model to be turned upside down. Having installed the cannons for the chase ports - as suggested - this leaves the guns hanging from what has become the ceiling. I just hope the guns are still where I glued them when the thing is turned the right way. Lesson: do the stern THEN the fore deck. The second problem is with the walnut ply supplied as the base for the stern counter. Having given it the obligatory 30 minute soak in water and 2 days in a jig to bend it, it refused to be bent to shape. Fitting clamps to glue it to the hull proved impractical. I therefore scrapped it and simply used timber strip which proved to be relatively easy. Here are the results. The first three photos have been rotated. This, and the next photo show the first layer of planks. The last two show the planking complete.
  6. The fore deck is now on, and the planks are applied awaiting a coat or two of polyurethane before treenailing. The following photos show the process so far. I decided to place a piece of timber strip behind the the plywood deck to hide both the ply and the ends of the planking that would be glued to it. I fixed the deck support about a mm or so back from the rear edge of the ply. Also shown is a piece of 6x6mm timber in place of the galley flue. This helped to position the deck. Gluing the covering piece of strip. The tape is there to cushion the jaws of the alligator clips. Strip in place; Planking glued: Having seen Joe's log, I was aware that he had made up a galley flue replacing the kits metal casting. Once I took a look at the metal casting in my kit I now know why. I therefore decided to have a go too. I had the correctly sized timber, but had nothing to make the small disk for the diffuser (?). My wife suggested a piece of X-ray film and it worked a treat. The film was first roughly shaped,and a nail driven in to the centre. The nail was glued to the film, then placed in the chuck of my faux Dremel. The rotating assembly was very gently lowed onto an abrasive stick until it was a nice clean circle. Here is the result, dry fitted. At least it's better than the casting.
  7. Thanks Jim for taking the time to comment and thanks for all the likes (or whatever they are called now). They really encourage. Jason You're right. Originally I tried for hooks but none of the material I had proved to be suitable for making them. Your post encouraged me to look again. Fortunately I found some etched brass fittings left over from the Vanguard that, with some work, could be made into adequate hooks. Here are the results. I hope all the mistakes are confined to these two guns (and I can now see the quoins need a touch up too) because they will be almost hidden.
  8. Thanks Kevin. I wish the rigging for the chaser ports guns had gone as easily. I made more mistakes doing these than any single job I can remember. At least I learnt a few things: don't put in the eyelets first - tie the lines to them off the model; adjust the length of the breeching rope off the model; and make sure the distance between the two blocks on each side of the guns provides enough room for the gun tackle fall (ie, the rope between them) to look realistic. Having not done any of the three the first time meant I had to re-rig at least once, and in one case, twice. While I am obviously a slow learner, my vocabulary has expanded if not improved. The first photo shows a simple way of adjusting the length of the breeching rope - off the model. The following photos show the rigging of one gun almost complete. The eyebolts and tackle are yet to be done. The blocks are standard off the shelf jobs and I think for the remaining rigging I will buy some of the Syren blocks. These two guns will be covered by the fore deck and will be almost impossible to see so I will leave them as is. I will be going away soon for a month and will wait until I return before ordering them - so no rigging for a while which will be a relief.
  9. The third coat of paint and two coats of polyurethane have been applied and it has certainly improved the finish. The eyelets for the guns' rigging have been installed and once the rigging is done, the foredeck may be made up. There first photo shows the eyelets and the second, an idea of how the guns will look.
  10. Thanks Joe. Mounting the barrels is a bit of a nightmare. While I have only done a couple, the cap square is difficult to position properly and each one took about an hour to do. Words were said. I have put two coats of paint on the bulwarks and it probably needs a third. The timber for the sheer rail is very coarse and as you will see from the following photos the grain really shows up. In finishing painting the chase ports and cabin lights I used Maskol to prevent paint getting on the front of the linings. On my Vanguard it worked well: not so in this application. It is difficult to apply it precisely and it tends to get caught in little crevices. I ended up scraping the unwanted paint off with a craft knife. The first photo however shows the Maskol in a more suitable application. This photo exaggerates the wood grain. Another coat of paint I now think will improve it and two coats of polyurethane I hope will finish it nicely. Here are the chase ports etc. before coating with poly.
  11. The sheer rails are now on. The 10x1mm timber supplied was very reluctant to bend in two dimensions. It was glued in two stages: first around the curved bow (taking eight clamps to properly seat them), then once the glue was properly dry, the remainder towards the stern. The latter required the timber to be bent downwards quite considerably. If there is a lesson in all of this it is the need for lots of clamps. Here is one of the Syren guns. It needs to be touched up and eventually rigged.
  12. The lining of the chase ports and cabin lights are now installed. There is touching up to do, and when that is complete they will scrub up pretty well. The chase ports were reasonably straightforward. The cabin lights less so. The problem is that there is very little material onto which the linings are to be stuck. My solution was to glue pieces of timber to support the upper and lower linings. While awkward, it worked fairly well. Here are results so far. The chase ports: The cabin lights and the supports for the linings: The semi-finished articles:
  13. The treenailing is finished. Here is the result. On it is one coat of polyurethane with another one or two to come. The bulwarks now have to be finished and painted and the frames of the gun ports touched up.
  14. The holes for the tree nails are finally complete. Before after drilling I run a finger over the holes to push in any timber pulled out by the drill bit, then use a pin to fully open the holes ready for filling. The photos below show how things look before the holes are filled.
  15. I have not had much chance to work on the model over the last week or so, but here is some progress on treenailing the upper planking. I have used Tamiya masking tape to provide a guide for each column. I first establish one vertical column using the tape, then from this, use a pair of dividers to make sure each successive piece of tape is the same horizontal distance top and bottom. This makes each piece of tape vertical and of course parallel. A pin is then used to mark to positions of the nails. This helps avoid the 0.5mm drill bit slipping and mistakes to be made.

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