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RMC

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Everything posted by RMC

  1. Having just finished 5 years or so building Amati's Vangard, I have decided to do something quite different: the bomb vessel Granado. There are a number of good logs for Granado on this website and I don't know if I can add much to them, but you never know. Most of the materials in the kit seem to be of good quality, though I am working on the first planking now and have found the wood strip splintery and cross-grained. The gun carriages could be improved and consequently I have substituted Syren carriages which are excellent though rather fiddly to put together (photos in my vanguard log). Here a few photos of the very beginning of the building process. I hope to have something a little more interesting soon. Having I hope, installed the bulkheads squarely The gunport patterns are next having given then a good soaking in warm water. The red-handled clamps are particulary strong and were necessary to made the pattern conform with the curved bulkheads Bulkhead 10 is rather more complicated than the rest. It has 4 extensions, two of which are at an angle, and is best completed off the model. Here is the bow. I have installed a balsa guides to help shape the wood strip around the bow. The screw-in clamps I find a far better than nailing the strip to the bulkeads. I have tried to upload a couple of other shots, but for some reason the uploads failed. I find that I have photographed one of the small drills I use mostly in preference to my Dremel. I have two of them and they save time and annoyance switching tools. Also shown are couple of the small pieces of wood strip with notches which help position the screw in clamps.
  2. This is how I propose to finish the trim for the capping rails. The profiled timber strip is 'P' -shaped in cross-section. I have run a piece of 1x1mm blue painted strip along the lower part of the P. Here is how it has turned out for that part of the trim which curves around the bow. Elsewhere, he blue Tamiya paint is proving to be a problem: it is very reluctant to stick. Dragging a brush over the surface to be painted is just as likely to take the paint off as put it on.
  3. The main capping rails should now be bent to shape a little more easily. Leaving them in place over the weekend worked quite well. The trim for the rails does not look to be an easy job. Rather than the brass wire, I have found some profiled walnut with the right dimensions. I will try to fit it in three pieces: the first around the curve of the bow to the beginning of the main capping rail; then another break near the bulkhead. The timber was well soaked and then left to dry in the gunport shaper supplied in the kit. Despite this the curve in the timber was not quite right and the photos show them dry fitted and clamped where I will leave them overnight. They will be painted before being permanently fitted. Here is a suggestion for shaping the stern fascia capping - a good soaking, then fitting the timber strip into the hole from which the fascia comes.
  4. I am now working on the capping rails. Fitting the main rails is quite a demanding little project. They have to be level and accurately follow the curvature of the inner bulwark. The rails are plywood, already shaped, and there is very little 'give' in attempting to bend them to the actual curve of the bulwark. Fortunately the bulwarks are fairly accurate and not much adjustment is required - just a slight bend of both near the stern. I will be away for a few days and I will leave them bent to shape, dry-fitted, and hope that at least part of the bend will remain when I return. This is how things look. The eyelets shown here are pushing the rail inwards towards the edge of the bulwark. I use balsa to cushion the clamps. I have stolen another of Joe's ideas in using the paper clips as clamps.
  5. It's certainly a shame that all of the data has been lost. It was a wonderful resource. I still have some of the photos of my progress on the Vanguard and I will try to put these up now. I have just competed the wales and the first of the decorative strips (above the top wale) and I will post these when I get a chance. I have just looked at this post and the photos have apparently gone up in reverse order. As well I was only able to load 9 files to the post, rather than the 10 that was advised elsewhere. The new format will take some getting used to. I hope my next attempt will be a bit less chaotic. I have tried to add some more photos with comments and have tried to preview the added post. I'm afraid it looks like a dogs breakfast. I'm going to submit it and see what turns up. It is VERY frustrating. This photo and the two below show my solution to the placement of the last timber strip to the main wale. Here is the stern view of the completed main wale. Starting the top wale. I first soak the first strip for a couple of hours, then clamp it in the correct position, leaving it overnight. This gives the correct curvature, I then glue it to the model complete and then cut the holes for the gunports. The remaining strip can then fitted easily below the first.
  6. The treenailing is finished. Here are some photos of the process. A pencil line is drawn on Tamiya tape as a guide. A pin then marks the appropriate places for the nails. This provides a guide for the drill bit, and makes it less likely for mistakes to be made. The first two photos show both the pinpricks and the drill holes. Not shown, the tape is then applied closely to either side of the rows of drill holes and the filler scraped along the gap between the two strips of tape, filling the holes. This is done so that not too much filler needs to be rubbed off (by a dampened piece of kitchen paper) in the finishing process. Finished.
  7. Thanks Joe. I forgot to give you credit for my using the polystyrene. I would never have thought of it. Thanks too for the 'reactions' (what ever happened to 'likes'?) they always provide encouragement. I had hoped to finish the treenailing today, but gardening got in the way. Here's a tip. Don't plant bougainvillias.
  8. I am in the process of planking the quarter deck. It concerned me that the front edge of the plywood sub decking would show. This was my original solution: gluing a piece of 2x2mm timber to the edge once the decking was complete. The timber would need to follow the curvature of the deck and would best bent before gluing. The following worked well. Simply soak the timber, then clamp it to the ply from which the bulkhead was cut and leave it to dry. I include it here as it may help those who may not be able to take advantage of a far easier solution I discovered while looking through a box of odds and ends - some L section timber. Here is the result. The L section covers the edge, and fits nicely onto the deck. It, and the planking had not yet been coated with polyurethane. .... now with a coat of poly. Once dry, the treenailing will be done, and then another coat of poly applied. Here is another problem to be avoided. The belfry is supposed to fit flush against the rear edge of the foredeck. If you install the bell too low - as I did - it will foul the edge as I discovered. Having tried unsuccessfully to reposition the bell, I eventually glued some 1mm thick strip to the bottom of the supports which raised it just enough to clear the deck. Here are the belfry and windlass roughly positioned. The 'modification' cannot be seen.
  9. The bulkhead is finally complete - treenails and all. I can't think of anything that has given more trouble (at least in building model ships) most of which is self-inflicted. The obvious advice is to fit the curved supports before planking. The spaces provided for them in the plywood decking are far too long. As well I would advise using polystyrene for the panels. The plywood panels supplied did not want to bend to shape. The quarterdeck is now in progress.
  10. Thanks for the encouragement Jason. The gaps (perhaps that's an overstatement) are between the pieces of timber between the supports and the strip in front which goes from balustrade to balustrade. It's more obvious than I would like and draws attention to the faults in the bulkhead. I think I can live with it. Peter: thanks too. I anticipated your suggestion regarding the treenails. It looked bare without them. They are now there.
  11. It has taken me quite some time to rectify my errors with the bulkhead. The fix is certainly not perfect, though I am reasonably pleased with the result and the doors have come out well. I would not care to do the whole thing again. I am hoping that eventually there will be so much stuff near it on the deck (ladders, pumps etc.) that any problems won't be noticed. In the next two photos a piece of wood strip has been draped across he bulkhead to give an idea of how things will eventually look. This shows the small gaps between the strips between the bulkhead supports and the strip covering the gaps in the deck. I may try to fill them. The blue shown here is closer to the actual colour.
  12. Thanks Sam. I've certainly decided not to use the decals. On the colour - the photo exaggerates the blue. In fact it is a far more restrained grey/blue.
  13. Here is a flat set of doors. I'm not sure if it was worth the trouble .... It needs some touching up and the 'handles' are dry-fitted at this stage. A coat of polyurethane is to come.
  14. Thanks Jason. The bulkhead has become a bit of a nightmare - and it's still not finished. Alan: I have had a very close look at the photos in the Anatomy book. Sure enough on p.35 the doors are flat. I am in the process of making a couple so we'll see how it turns out. Thanks for pointing it out. It wouldn't have occurred to me. All the best Bob
  15. When I dry-fitted the bulkhead it became apparent that the grooves for the side screens were out by about 1mm at the bottom and 2mm at the top. It was not good news. The error stemmed primarily from incorrectly installing the bulwark pattern. Here is my solution to the problem. First a groove was cut in the appropriate position. The drill bits from the dentist have proved invaluable. A piece of timber was cut to shape and glued in place in front of, and behind the groove. This gave a far deeper groove for the screen and will, I hope make it easier to fit. The grooves in the supports a very shallow. ... and here is the result. At the moment the repairs only have one coat of paint and both need some further touching up, but it hasn't turned out too badly. The photos exaggerate the roughness of the job, but it will better once complete. Alan: I will try to get hold of a copy of the Kighorn (sp?) article. Thanks for taking the trouble. As an experiment I have painted one of the screens Admiralty paints French blue and another Tamiya mid blue. The Tamiya covered in one coat and looks quite good. The Admiralty paint has not covered well and may need at least two more coats. I will post some photos when finished, but the French blue is, to my eye rather garish.
  16. Hi Alan - I think it's likely you are right. The curves of the screens do not appear to be functional - particularly the curved door. However at this stage I almost feel obliged to finish the damn thing consistent with the plans provided in the Anatomy of a Ship, and I can only presume they are accurate. In doing so, I have discovered that an error I made earlier has come back to bite me. It has taken me some time to correct it - and I am still not sure yet that I have succeeded. Photos to come. I have already said that I will probably not use the transfers of the illustrations on the screens. They look rather toy-like, but I am not sure how plain (light) blue screens alone will look either. Perhaps a glass of wine will help.
  17. Hi Peter It's all a bit confusing - but have a look at the photo on page 35. I think that gives me an out. The horizontal beam under the curved supports only needs to be a fraction deeper than that shown in the photo to cover my errors. Replacing the planks doesn't bear thinking about. All the best Bob
  18. Progress is slow. The quarterdeck bulkhead is proving to be quite difficult and time-consuming. Everything seems to fit now, but I have made a mess of two of the cutouts for the supports. I have left the repairs as is for the time being, (see the first photo) but I think I can do a better job. If all else fails I will fudge it - cover the whole lot as shown in the second photo, though I would prefer some lighter coloured timber. Like Joe V I have used polystyrene for the panels rather than the ply supplied in the kit. They will be painted light blue, but I will probably not use the transfers of the drum etc. but may have go at painting the pictures. If that doesn't work (likely) I will probably leave them simply painted. Every thing shown below is dry-fitted. The windlass has another coat of poly on it and the ends are now painted. I will forget about painting/staining it.
  19. Thanks Sam. I think I will go with another coat of the polyurethane. The stain/paint look too artificial.
  20. I have now put the windlass together, and a very fiddly job it was. It is shown with a coat of polyurethane. I have experimented with walnut stain and Admiralty walnut paint. The paint gives a slightly better finish, though it is still not all that accurate a colour. At this stage I am undecided, but am inclined to put another coat of poly on it and leave it as is. Comments are welcome.
  21. Thank you for the kind comments Roadking and KHauptfuehrer. Bob
  22. Thanks mark. I'm afraid I was rather shortsighted about what to do with the thing once it was finished. I will probably have a case built, but at the moment I'm not sure how best to fit it in with the table.
  23. Joy. The missing parts showed up today. The service from Cornwall Model Boats was excellent. Progress on Granado has been slow. I had to put a few finishing touches on Vanguard which is now FINISHED.😁 The fore castle capping on Granado is now done, and in the end proved more difficult than I expected. It is only dry-fitted in the photos and will remain that way until all the capping is ready to install. It came out reasonably well - fortunately most of its shortcomings will be obscured by other detail. The top of the belfry has been painted - otherwise the edges of the plywood trim would be seen. I have painted the lower edges Tamiya mid-blue. I tried Admiralty Paints French blue, but the colour seemed to me to be too strong. I will probably use the lighter blue on the rest of the model.
  24. Vanguard is finished- after five or so years. I have had a beautiful Tasmanian blackwood table made to accommodate it and the result is quite pleasing. I am now recovering from my near heart attack while carrying it down the stairs. Here are the final photos. I see Winnie the Pooh in the background.

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