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About robdurant

  • Birthday 03/29/1979

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  1. Wow, they've made efficient use of that wood to fit the frames in, haven't they! Bluenose is such a lovely looking boat. Hope we'll see a build log?
  2. Only to myself I assure you, Allan I have that modeller's bug bad... always looking at the next model. But I think in Ethalion I may have found my modelling home... for a while, at least Rob
  3. An exciting day for me as I just took delivery of my dream model. I plan to build her as Ethalion (1797), one of her sister ships in the Artois class. (As soon as I finish Sherborne of course )
  4. Brilliant. Some wonderful people gave me a jeweller's saw for Christmas, so I'm looking forward to trying that out... I think this build is going to go slowly, and hopefully plod along beside the new incoming project - HMS Diana from Caldercraft, but built as Ethalion (1797). That's due to arrive in the new year and will be much easier to get on with in the evenings without annoying the neighbours Happy Christmas to you all
  5. Thanks for all the advice. I've paused to reflect on the best way forward as I finish off the second planking on my Sherbourne (bring on the scrapers!). Almost there now. Just two planks left on the port side. I'll have to invest in a jeweller's saw. I managed to find some replacement coping saw blades with a higher tpi, so I'll give them a try. A scroll saw does sound like a good idea though (might have to wait for that kind of investment!). I'll have a look round and see if i can get a bigger drum sander, too. Thanks again Rob
  6. Well, not much progress, but a little. This project is going to be a slow one, as I'm working on it while I work on Sherbourne to get a feel for whether I have the scratchbuilding skills (and patience) to try something harder. That said, I had a good headscratch, and I think I'm beginning to work out how I can turn boards of walnut into something resembling parts of frames (given the distinct lack of power tools). So here's the progress so far. I've printed off the plan for frame 0 (at a factor of 0.75 to make it 1:64) and stuck the component patterns onto the walnut with pritt stick to allow me to remove the patterns later. Then very gently with a coping saw (I've ordered some finer blades!), I cut roughly round them. The next challenge was the bigger hurdle. I don't have a scroll saw, band saw or any powered sander... but I do have a basic stand for to turn a hand drill (750W) into a pillar drill... so I mounted a proxxon drum sander part into the drill chuck and lowered the stand as shown in the photo, so it was permanently level with the work surface... It sounds horrendously loud - so loud in fact, I had pity on the neighbours after a short while... and I had to keep one hand on the drill power button... but it kind of did the trick... My issue was that although it was sanding the excess away, it left a pretty wavy line, so a larger drum would be handy. It looks like the following would help: * A better way to cut the frames out, so I can cut closer to the lines (i.e. a scroll saw / band saw?) * A quieter way to sand the frames, so I don't annoy the neighbours and provide a variety or sanding disk sizes to allow me to attain smoother sanding (perhaps an oscillating spindle sander?) Anyway - progress... and I'm encouraged that this isn't impossible, just time consuming and requiring patience on my part. Pictures below:
  7. Thanks Pete, and thanks everyone for the likes. I'm planning on using walnut. But this is very much a try-it-out project, so that may well change. I've got some wood on order for the frames at the moment. Rob
  8. Hi, Hoping to make a fully framed frigate in the future in 1:64, so this seems the perfect place to try out some of those skills. I've only done plank on bulkhead before from kits, so it's a bit of a journey into the unknown, but how helpful to have so many others who've travelled the path before me! I scaled the plans down by a factor of 0.75 to take them from 1:48 to 1:64 (where 3/16" is equivalent to 1ft). Here are the picture so far. Parts are walnut. I've left the keelson, keel and false keel longer than the plans and intend to trim them down later on in the build.
  9. I use a mix of an EOS 40D when I want really nice shots, and my Samsung Galaxy S4 phone camera... I was struggling with the picture quality, espcially in the evenings, for build logs, but then I put a daylight spectrum bulb in my anglepoise lamp, and just moved that around the get plenty of light on the subject, and that's really helped Also, if you really want nice shots, then using a tripod, or beanbag with a slow exposure can help get the picture away from the limits of what the camera sensor is happy with, and if you use a time-delay shot, then you won't get camera shake as you hit the shutter button. I tend to avoid using a flash, because it is hard to get diffused light that won't burn out some bits and leave other bits dark, when the camera's so close to the subject... but that's just my tuppence. This is on the galaxy s4 with daylight bulb anglepoise And this is the Canon EOS 40D (with Speedlite 550EX flash bounced off a white wall and ceiling behind) Cheers Rob
  10. Hi, I've got some of the Amati 25mm white metal napoleonic royal navy figures, and I want to paint them to go on my Jotika HM Schooner Pickle, but I've never painted figures before. I've heard that the Vallejo acrylics are highly regarded. Does anyone have any tips on which colour shades I'd be best starting off with? I've trawled through a bit of Youtube looking for some basic advice on preparation, priming, etc... but any other advice people have would be gratefully received, too. Thanks in advance. Rob