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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Progress, progress! At a rate that I can only imagine. Keep up the good work, Dirk. Hmm, maybe you will go all scratch next time and avoid all these kit shortcomings. Mike
  2. Hi Rusty, I glad to see your making some nice progress again. You might find that the pin rail between the catheads will have to be raised, virtually level with the top of the caprail, in order to clear the bowsprit. Check out Chuck's third photo in post #910. I had to do the same on mine. Mike
  3. Erik, The topsail yard was reduced approx 1 1/2" (actual) and the lower yard was reduced by approx 1 13/16" (actual) . As to why they where drawn longer on the plans, I really can't say. Mike
  4. Hello everyone, I've completed a few projects ahead of finishing up the standing rigging. One being the repainting of the workroom and the other being the necessary shortening of the two yards, as per Chuck's instructions. No doubt he will have the drawings and related comments available when he has time. I could have made all new ones, however I wasn't really happy with the idea having to do that. Since the stock thickness remains the same for both. I just shortened them and re-tapered them to the proper spec with the use of a hand drill. The lower yard needed new sheaves and there was just enough length available to allow for this. I left them unpainted so you can see what they look like at this time. I was able to salvage those pesky to make stops as well. Mike
  5. Ed, I might have missed it somewhere in your log, but I'm a bit curious as to why you're not to staying with foam core. Couldn't you make a slot to hold it in place for easy removal later? Mike
  6. Chris, Your excitement is contagious. Mike
  7. See, I told you not to worry. Looks fantastic! Mike
  8. Well, I'm happy to say that the ratlines are done. The next step will be to complete the standing rigging and add some rope coils. Getting there! Mike
  9. You won't, Erik. Just keep doing what you do best! Mike
  10. Erik, I would not do it that way. Gaps will remain gaps no matter how much you try and force the wood into place. This is especially true since boxwood is not going to conform to variances in shape beyond a certain point. Take your time to get a press fit, though not too tight. The glue will swell the wood slightly and you definitely want the wood to go into the space as far as possible. I would only bevel the wood ever so slightly, Too much and there is a risk over thinning the edges during final sanding. You might end up test fitting numerous times in order to get it right. However, I think that the process will go quicker than you might expect. Mike
  11. Hey Mike. I have no doubt that you will find this to be an interesting build. Can't say much for the poor Britannia castings, but those can be replaced with wood. Follow Chuck's instructions and it should go smoothly for you. Any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Mike
  12. Well, I don't know how long it would take a more experienced modeler to do this. However, waiting those three days to see the final result felt more like a week. Mike
  13. Thank you, Erik! I'm embarrassed to say, but almost three days. The third day was spent getting the lines into some sort of uniformity. Some of the clove hitches needed tightening and some of the line lengths needed adjusting. Not a big deal, just time consuming. Mike
  14. Thanks, druxey! It's doesn't hurt to have good material to work with. Using Chuck's rope certainly helped in making the work go a whole lot easier. Mike
  15. Hey guys, I apologize for redoing doing the last post three times. Still learning the new format. Mike