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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. I finally completed the work of thinning down the bulkhead extensions (toptimbers). I found that leaning the hull allows for easier access when sanding both the exterior and interior. This also reduces the need for me to be constantly bent over which tends to be hard on my back. The three upright supports do keep the hull vertical, but clamping these supports keeps the hull more rigid and less prone to movement while sanding. I could foresee the possibility of this constant movement either marring the keel or even worse loosening joints. At this point I am ready to start the second layer whales and black strake. Mike
  2. Work continues with the rather messy job of fairing the inner hull above the wales starboard side. Frame width has been reduced to 6" or 1/8" actual. Mike
  3. Thanks, Mauricio! Most of the wood used on my build went into making the frames. To calculate the amount of wood needed, I first had to cut out all of the paper patterns corresponding to each frame. The patterns were then grouped together according to the thickness of wood needed for those patterns. Once that was done I was able to layout the patterns, paying close attention to the run of the grain, on several sheets of paper. The sheets of paper were the same size as the sheet wood I would be ordering. I figured in a waste factor of 50% for re-do's. Mike
  4. Thanks, Mark! I have fretted about it too and decided not to paint those edges. Guess I'm not a purist! Mike
  5. The port side planking above the first layer wales is done. Again you can see the original wood color in the area of the wales compared to that which is above. I pencil marked X's on the first layer wales so as to avoid placing the second layer in the wrong location. I also started to clean up and fair the inside of the hull in the forecastle area. I glued scrap 1/8" basswood and balsa in-between the frames as a guide while removing material. Lots of sawdust! MIke
  6. Excellent work as usual, Chuck. You certainly know your way around AYC. I'm still learning! Mike
  7. Thank you all for the very nice comments and for all the"Likes"! Mike
  8. Steve, the planks with no tabs are 1/4" x 3/64 and the tabbed ones are 5/16 x 3/64" Mike
  9. The planking work above the wales on the starboard side is finished. I think you can see the difference in the newly purchased wood compared to that which was used for the first wale layer. It is much more even in grain and color. The most difficult work was shaping the planks that have both tabs and cutouts. Mike
  10. Thank you, Ken! I only use clamps with protective tips. Here is an example of the clamps I use and how I set them. Those are 2" Wolfcraft clamps which are used to pull the plank against the hull. http://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/microtip_spring_clamps/2_microtip_60_precision_spring_clamps/s/p/index.html The 6" Dewalt clamp is used to pull the plank down tight to the previously installed plank. I usually glue and clamp 4"-6" of planking at a time. No matter how many I use there is no chance of denting the boxwood. Mike
  11. Lou: This version uses a thicker and better grade of wood for the bulkhead former and bulkheads. Filler blocks are not necessary. Chuck has supplied me with some nice boxwood sheets for planking, so I am finally ready to start work above the black strake. Cutouts or tabs are made where necessary in the area of the gun ports. I'm using clamps and Titebond II. Sanding will be done after all of these planks are in. Mike
  12. Chuck likes CA and it works great for him. I tried his method, but I prefer using Titebond II. It requires more work since I have to hold the plank or lightly clamp it while the glue sets. Guess that's why I have a TV in the workroom. Mike
  13. Here is a small update on the planking progress so far. The biggest challenge is getting a good fit at the stem where bending and twisting is necessary. Be careful when clamping the wood as it can dent easily. Place a flat piece of wood under the clamp or use a trigger clamp that can be controlled. Also, place the clamps across the entire width of the plank in order to avoid any chance of splitting the wood when twisting it into shape. A hair dryer on dry wood is all that's necessary. I have only done some minor glue cleanup of the seams. The planks are only 1/32" thick, so better to do the final sanding over a broad surface, I think. Mike
  14. Well, having seen Chuck's Longboat in AYC I decided that I much preferred that look over what I was getting from the Pear. So, off to the races again with another re-do. Things are now close to where I was a month ago. I like the fact that there is much less char build up on the AYC. The stem/keel joints were glued together without any char removal. The wood is quite flexible which makes the planking process easier. I'm holding off on the final fairing of the two aftmost bulkheads and transom until I get a better idea of just how much more is needed. As I move further up the hull I will start to sand those butt joints. Right now it would be easy to sand them too thin. Here are a few photos of where I'm at now. Mike
  15. Jorge, I'm on hold while I continue to try and find some nice boxwood for the hull planking. The stuff I have now has too much visible grain. Here is an sample I made to simulate the planking with some Wipe-on-Poly applied. Some folks might like it, but I prefer a less grainy look. This is a major project and I don't want to compromise unless I have to. Mike

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