Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mount Vernon, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

1,077 profile views
  1. The lower counter has been planked and sanded. I used a #2b pencil to darken the plank edges. Decorative molding will cover the notch in the lowest plank. Mike
  2. I've been working on the final fairing of the lower counter. It was determined that the vertical filler piece was not close enough to the rabbet strip, so a thin strip was added to the aft edge of the filler piece. The first horizontal filler block had a score where the "B" frame was located. I removed the block and shaved the bottom edge of the "B" frame down, level with the other frames. The new block now sits neatly across the frames. I left one side not yet faired to show how much wood was removed to fair this area. The transition between the two filler pieces becomes clear as more and more wood is removed. A batten strip was used in various locations to make sure that enough wood was removed. Mike
  3. Joe, I am working closely with Chuck on this build, but it is not a true beta build in the way you are suggesting. There will be times when I do scratch over laser cut. Not to make it better, but to work on my scratch building skills. The nine piece knee of the head was scratched since there was concern about laser cutting 1/4" boxwood. The fixed blocks were milled. For the kit version, these parts will most likely be laser cut, though perhaps not in boxwood. Mike
  4. Thank you, Harley! I probably used the word "cross-spall" loosely in that post. I used a flat piece of wood clamped across the top of the hance pieces to make sure that the top edge was flat across the hull. On Hayling, I used a cross-spall or batten strip to insure that the frames were parallel across their tops. I tack glued the strip at the height of the top timbers. I set the frame when both sides were the same in vertical measurement to the top of the batten. There are other ways to do this when using a cross-spall, but I found that this way worked for me. Mike
  5. I've been working on a few things over the past week. The quarter gallery framing and surrounding area was faired some more. The tops of the two outer stern frames were reduced in thickness from 1/4" to 5/32" in order to match the thickness of the inner frames. The entire area was then faired to establish a smooth batten run down the hull. You can see how much material has been removed compared to the photo above from an earlier post. Next, the entire hull was faired with the exception of the two filler pieces under the lower counter. I started on them, but remain unsure about the transition from one to the other. Hopefully, this will become less confusing after I talk to Chuck this week. I did manage to add the fixed blocks. 1/32" Slots were milled for each of these. I did not mill the slots on a strip of wood that was the exact width required. Rather, I used a much wider strip. The advantage being that it was not necessary to mill the slot to the exact angle and position on the strip. Paper templates were cut from the plan drawing and the slots carefully removed with a #11 blade. They were then aligned over the milled slots and adhered with Elmer's School Glue. With the template as a guide, the outer edges of each block was sanded down on the disc sander to the proper width all around. The sheaves were made from slivers of wood cut from discs of the same thickness as the slot. Each sheave is thinner than the actual block, so they can recess slightly into the block. A #2 pencil was used to darken the sheave slot and the actual sheave. Mike
  6. Joe, I use a Nikon D5100 on a tripod. I chose this camera for its low price yet it has a really good 16 mega-pixel sensor. I only use prime lenses. Zoom lenses are okay, just not as sharp. Closeup I use the Nikon AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED Lens. Further away I use the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens Mike
  7. The four hance pieces are in. They were laser cut from yellow cedar and set proud in order to shape them to the outboard hull shape. A cross spall was used to insure that they sit straight. Mike
  8. Thank You, Maury and for all the "Likes"! The quarter gallery framing and aft-most gun port turned out to be my week's project. The 5/64" X 1/4" strip along the top of the quarter deck bulkheads was made from basswood. I sanded the bulkhead tops to the correct angles for a smooth flow of the strip. Getting the symmetry from one side to the other took patience and repeated eyeballing. The framing of the quarter gallery required a bit of experimentation. There are a number of angles on each strip and no two strips are the same, except for the two gallery entrance strips. Rather than waste precious boxwood, I used basswood strips to find the correct angles. As an example, one strip had angles of 70° and 10° on one side, 6.5° and 5° on the other. A disc sander with multiple adjustments comes in handy. After completing the horizontal strips I made the two aft-most gun ports. Lastly, the quarter gallery entrance strips were added. The plan detail proved to be very useful for getting exact measurements. All strips were inserted standing proud, allowing for shaping to the hull shape when fairing. I faired the work leaving a wee bit more for later on when I start work on the lower hull. I'm always trying to stay one step back until I'm sure of where I'm going. Mike
  9. The two forecastle deck clamps were added today. They sit below the stringer at the aft end which allows the forecastle deck beams to sit flush with the top edge of the stringer. At this stage the hull is quite strong. Mike
  10. The shop has been a busy place lately. In preparation for the quarter deck clamp/stringer in the waist and Forecastle deck clamp install, it was necessary to remove the small temporary filler pieces between each frame. My method is to wrap the fillers (3-4 at a time) with a moist paper towel and apply a hot clothes iron to the surface of the paper towel. The steam penetrates and loosens the joint. Needle nose pliers can then be used to remove each piece. Final sanding of the exterior hull will be completed later. Using this height gauge, vertical measurements were taken from the shear plan at various locations and transferred to the interior hull. The thin boxwood strip was glued to the gauge with CA and pushed through between the frames, so tic marks could be added. The quarter deck clamp which becomes the stringer in the waist is installed above the upper deck clamp. Mike
  11. Building continues with the stern framing. I was lucky enough to get the frames laser cut for me. I used a simple cardboard template to install them at the same angle as shown on the plans. Next, the five sills were added. I made these from 5/32" x 5/16" strip. These angles were tricky to get right and there were a few throwaways. The sills were set flat, not pointing upwards. The final step was to add the four laser cut lintel filler pieces. In a few places, I found them to be a tiny bit too short between the frames, so I cut new ones from 1/4" sheet boxwood. The interior and exterior surfaces were then faired. I was told that these surfaces will eventually be thinned down even more. In preparation for the bollard timbers the area behind the stem was reduced to a thickness of 1/8". Mike
  12. Shawn, I started out using graphite paper as a transfer method. By the time I started work on the frames, I switched over to Elmer's School Glue and plan drawings which were made from a printed copy. There are times when graphite paper comes in handy, like when I transfer a scarph joint shape. So, both work, just depends on the application. Mike
  13. All of the work since my last post was done on the build board where the bulkhead former was held securely by the longitudinal channel and the three vertical supports. After adding the bulkheads, the hull was faired down to the half breadth in preparation for the gun port framing. I used a 36" x 1/16" x 1/4" x balsa strip as a batten to establish a smooth run for the framing. After completing one side, vertical measurements where taken at each bulkhead and transferred to the other side. The gun port framing and fixed block supports were added. This time, I drilled smaller 1/32" holes through the supports. Bulkheads had to be cut for proper gun port location at the bow. One of the two lower deck platforms installed. Mike
  14. The ones I purchased open to 60mm and are 100mm long. Mike
  15. Thank you, druxey! Clamp source: https://www.fruugo.us/wolfcraft-mt-70-precision-spring-clamp-clamping-width-max-7-cm/p-18753538-41049855 Mike

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research