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About GMO2

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    Mainly any sailing ship from Naos and Carracks to Cape Horners,with a side interest in ww2 and earlier destroyers. I also enjoy authentic black powder era firearms,and occaisionally like to build them.In the past I was heavily into airplanes,full scale as well as RC.

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  1. Kurt, That is an excellent idea for developing a centerline that truly bisects the entire hull.I always struggled with straightedges and stringlines and such,never quite achieving a really satisfactory result down the deck.I have an old school Benjamin W. Latham in the closet.IF i ever get to it I will use your strategy for the centerline.
  2. Having done several of these solid hulls in years gone by,I would like to emphasize the importance of establishing and maintaining a distinct centerline.It will pay dividends as you proceed along.Losing it will make your life miserable.
  3. Some years past I built a clipper model from A.J.Fisher plans.It was at 1:96 scale and I had the same problem with footrope stirrups until I made them from fine wire.Before that I could not get them to hang at all right.If I were to do it at a larger scale I might try hanging a small weight from them and saturate them with dilute PVA or perhaps thin CA.None of this is ever easy is it?
  4. My father went in the navy in 1937,just out of school,at the age of 17.The first ship he was on was an old WW1 four-piper destroyer enroute across the Atlantic to join the USS Trenton.He had to climb the mast to pull lookout duty up in the "crow's nest". He said that old ship rolled like a pencil,and that the lookout was expected to carry a bucket up the mast as it was considered poor form to just heave over the side. At least the ladder was a rigid steel affair instead of a swaying rope contrivance like those guys had to deal with.Also he was lucky in that it was a time of year such that he didn't have to chip ice on the way up.
  5. Picture yourself having to climb that in even moderately heavy weather,let alone a gale driven sleet storm.
  6. This is one of my favorite build logs to follow.The Connie is next,and I will probably start preliminary work on the hull soon,as a diversion from rigging the Morgan during those times when I need a break from it.I plan to do my Connie as near to the 1927 restoration as I can.There are quite a few differences from the MS kit,which reflects some of the alterations made in recent years as they are trying to work their way back to the actual war of 1812 configuration.The reason I have chosen to do it that way is because I believe the 1927 rebuild may be one of the more important historical periods in the life of this ship.Of the total cost of this restoration,($921,108.49) only some $271,023.01 was provided by the congress.The remainder came from public donations,and the sale of souvenirs.some of the donations coming from school children.Had all this not come about when it did,the onset of the depression years,followed by WW2,MIGHT well have delayed the work until she was just too far gone to save.As it was ,90% of the structure had to be replaced. The Boston Public Library has a collection of, photos viewable online which offer some very detailed images of the ship before,during, and after this restoration.They are well worth having a look.
  7. I tried a couple of things to see if I could apply a fixative to arrest and preserve the green effect,satin poly,and clear dope in the form of clear fingernail polish.Both had the same wetting effect,turning the verdigris dark brown,almost black.This is basically what happens to ornamental copper with verdigris patina when it gets wet.When it dries,the green patina is evident again.As I understand it ,this is because the wetting interferes with the refractive nature of verdigris until it evaporates.In the case of a fixative application.this interference is permanent.thereby ruining your efforts at patination.This is why I think that experimenting with various green pigmented washes,wet or dry,followed by a dull clear topcoat will prove more rewarding in the end.
  8. After some experimentation I can say that you can turn the copper tape green using the Miracle-Gro technique.However,whether you would really want to employ this on your model is another matter altogether.In the first place the results are quite delicate and easily ruined by a careless touch,the natural skin oil being the culprit here,at least in my case.For the same reason I don't know of any way to apply a fixative that doesn't have a wetting effect which also ruins your results.While this can be used to accelerate the aging of your copper sheathing,I really think you would be better served to resort to some of the wash techniques employed by the guys doing plastic models.Some incredibly realistic finishes have resulted from their applications.Maybe the best possible solution would be to age the copper with the miracle gro mix applied in a weaker solution,followed by a green tinted wash with a dull clear coat over that.Give it a try and see what you think.I am looking forward to watching your Morgan develop.Mine is approaching the rigging stage,relieved by a whaleboat now and then.Happy experimenting! Gary
  9. Glad it could be caught before it became a real pain to fix,more than it is.I think by the time I'm finally done I will have built the C.W.Morgan 3 times over.
  10. One thing I would suggest,before you get to the point of no return,if I may.Have another look at the AOS rigging section.The breast backstays as they are called come down from the Topmasthead and are set up as you have them with blocks.I have this kit and am really looking forward to it and spend a good deal of time studying plans and photos of the Connie in anticipation of the day I can start on it.This ship has a really interesting (to me) rig.The MS rigging diagram doesn't show this clearly,although the picture on the box does,upon close examination. Gary
  11. Paul. I don't know why it wont work on brass,the main component being copper. It may be that what you have is actually phosphor bronze,as opposed to real brass.I have a couple of replicas of mid 19th century rifles made with that. The originals often exhibit that greenish patina,being really brass. Try as I might,I cant get a similar patina on the replicas artificially.I have read that someone is reported to have done it,but how I don't know. Gary
  12. So far the copper tape sample has sat for a week and seems to have stabilized.I have a piece of basswood ready for applying a pattern of plates and will then try two solutions,one with vinegar,one with water.The water alone mix is supposed to give a bluish tint,more like model 2 above.We'll see. Gary
  13. Mike, I have done a brief initial test of a 1-3 mixture of miracle gro to red wine vinegar.The miracle-gro I have is called shake 'n feed,and consists of granules like regular fertilizer.I just put it in the vinegar and let it dissolve a little and stirred it repeatedly with a q-tip.I then coated one side of a shiny penny .After a short while,maybe an hour, it is dull and has a definite greenish cast already. I then put some on a piece of tape left from coppering my Morgan.The first thing I noticed is a tendency to puddle and give a splotchy effect,although it did dull it quickly.I have slightly roughened the surface with some 4 ought steel wool to improve the uniformity of wetting.It was almost immediately dulled and appears more evenly spread than before.Next,I am going to prepare another mixture by grinding the granules as finely as I can before adding the vinegar.Then I am going to make a pattern of copper tape just as if it was on a hull,rough it gently with steel wool,and apply that solution.That will happen next week,as I have to leave again for a day or two.What I can tell you is that this works,and will give a greenish patina to copper in a short time.I am quite certain it will work on CC and Amati's individual plates as I understand they are applied one at the time after being coated with adhesive,meaning this can be done well in advance of application.The copper tape is going to require a little experimentation to get it just right.At least we have something of a beginning. Gary

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