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GMO2

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About GMO2

  • Birthday 10/28/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Thomaston,Ga,USA
  • Interests
    Mainly any sailing ship from Naos and Carracks to Cape Horners,with a side interest in ww2 and earlier destroyers. I also enjoy authentic black powder era firearms,and occaisionally like to build them.In the past I was heavily into airplanes,full scale as well as RC.

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  1. Rob, Thank you for sharing your sail making technique.I have gone back and looked at your pictures of your sails,and along with your descriptions I think I see what you do.,I gather that you have had no problem with the paper wanting to become discolored over time as some acidic papers are prone to do.Perhaps the paint reduces that tendency.I first contemplated using rag bond,but they only sold it by the ream at $35.00,and that put me off,not needing 500 sheets.I think the Morgan is a little too far along to do the sails,now that I think about it,but I have some other projects in mind where it will work just fine. Thanks again for your help. Gary
  2. Rob, In regards to the sailmaking process,what would be most helpful to me is to know the type of paper you find best,and what you use to mark the seams . If it proves convenient,next time you make a sail could you post a picture of all the components laid out ready for assembly. I can take it from there. Thanks for your reply. Gary
  3. Do you have a tutorial on your technique for making these sails from paper.They are really nice looking,and I have wanted to add a few to the C.W. Morgan I'm starting to rig.
  4. The last time I did this particular task I made what amounted to a series of hawse pieces(parallel to the keel).The first was flush to the keel,following the rabbet and faired into it.The remainder of the several pieces were separated by spacers of equal thickness.Each piece as you work outward will pretty much reveal the required shape of the next to follow.You could just tack glue them and then use them to produce corresponding pieces for the opposite side. I found this to be much less troublesome than when I carved the two pieces out of a solid block. I hope this is described clearly enough and that it helps
  5. It appears to have been from the old M.S. kit of the topsail schooner "Eagle". Not 100% sure on that,but it sure looks like it.
  6. The main thing to consider about all of this is that it is more of an art form than anything else. We are our own worst critics,and it is ourselves whom we must first satisfy. Some while back one of the other Morgan builders was contemplating a means of representing the cabin and dining area that would be visible from deck looking down through the skylight.At first,that seemed an awful lot of effort for something that would not be seen,especially once in a display case,and could only be viewed from the side.But the more I thought about the idea,the more I realized that he would always see it every time he looked at his creation,and that is the most important consideration of all. I will be looking forward to seeing your results when you are ready to show it to us. I think I have about single- handedly worn out John's website looking at the Morgan pictures.I also think I will have built mine about three times as I spend more time redoing stuff than actually making real headway,not to mention getting diverted to other stuff for long periods. Gary
  7. David In looking in on your struggles with the skylight ,I thought I would explain my own take on it.First thing,there was a build log on the Morgan a few years ago under the name Dragon 65.As I remember ,he managed to get all the rods in the top of his skylight.Just how he did that remains a huge mystery.When I came to it I could not imagine anything less than a cnc micro-mil and most definitely something other than basswood for the framework.At any rate my final approach was to just make concessions to the brevity of life and be content with the frame with a clear plastic backing for the lights.Now that it is on the ship down among the hurricane house ,the little cabin,the boat deck,and with the mizzen in place,it is hard for me to see that the frustration of trying to credibly fat-finger that little dude with the rods would have been worthwhile.But,that said,---to each his own. If you aren't already acquainted with it,there is an excellent website with about 400 pictures of the Morgan nearby.Go to the Proxxon website on the right side of this website.At the lower right of the home page is a tab for" back to the CW Morgan".On the far right of that page is a tab for "more" which opens a drop-down menu which includes John Fleming's complete build log,among other things.The entries under gallery includes "the Morgan as of August of 2015"containing a host of useful pictures.If I had that available when I first started I could have avoided a myriad of mistakes on mine. I think it will help you if it hasn't already. Your work looks just fine---keep on keeping on. Gary
  8. David Do yourself a favor and establish the davits and boat bearers early in your build and let them guide the positioning of other things,I am just now affixing them and having a time of it because I waited until very late to do so.Of course the addition of a forward shelter deck, as shown in the drawings in Leavitt's book ,didn't help with that. The principal difficulty that I've found is trying to establish a common reference point from which to measure the actual position of various other points. Altogether I have concluded that the Morgan ranks high in the difficulty scale of all the model kits available out there,simply because of all the stuff that has to be placed without interfering with something else.Fortunately I have a good command of Coal Mine Creole with which to coax things along. Gary
  9. Kurt, That is an excellent idea for developing a centerline that truly bisects the entire hull.I always struggled with straightedges and stringlines and such,never quite achieving a really satisfactory result down the deck.I have an old school Benjamin W. Latham in the closet.IF i ever get to it I will use your strategy for the centerline.
  10. Having done several of these solid hulls in years gone by,I would like to emphasize the importance of establishing and maintaining a distinct centerline.It will pay dividends as you proceed along.Losing it will make your life miserable.
  11. Some years past I built a clipper model from A.J.Fisher plans.It was at 1:96 scale and I had the same problem with footrope stirrups until I made them from fine wire.Before that I could not get them to hang at all right.If I were to do it at a larger scale I might try hanging a small weight from them and saturate them with dilute PVA or perhaps thin CA.None of this is ever easy is it?
  12. My father went in the navy in 1937,just out of school,at the age of 17.The first ship he was on was an old WW1 four-piper destroyer enroute across the Atlantic to join the USS Trenton.He had to climb the mast to pull lookout duty up in the "crow's nest". He said that old ship rolled like a pencil,and that the lookout was expected to carry a bucket up the mast as it was considered poor form to just heave over the side. At least the ladder was a rigid steel affair instead of a swaying rope contrivance like those guys had to deal with.Also he was lucky in that it was a time of year such that he didn't have to chip ice on the way up.
  13. Picture yourself having to climb that in even moderately heavy weather,let alone a gale driven sleet storm.
  14. This is one of my favorite build logs to follow.The Connie is next,and I will probably start preliminary work on the hull soon,as a diversion from rigging the Morgan during those times when I need a break from it.I plan to do my Connie as near to the 1927 restoration as I can.There are quite a few differences from the MS kit,which reflects some of the alterations made in recent years as they are trying to work their way back to the actual war of 1812 configuration.The reason I have chosen to do it that way is because I believe the 1927 rebuild may be one of the more important historical periods in the life of this ship.Of the total cost of this restoration,($921,108.49) only some $271,023.01 was provided by the congress.The remainder came from public donations,and the sale of souvenirs.some of the donations coming from school children.Had all this not come about when it did,the onset of the depression years,followed by WW2,MIGHT well have delayed the work until she was just too far gone to save.As it was ,90% of the structure had to be replaced. The Boston Public Library has a collection of, photos viewable online which offer some very detailed images of the ship before,during, and after this restoration.They are well worth having a look.
  15. I tried a couple of things to see if I could apply a fixative to arrest and preserve the green effect,satin poly,and clear dope in the form of clear fingernail polish.Both had the same wetting effect,turning the verdigris dark brown,almost black.This is basically what happens to ornamental copper with verdigris patina when it gets wet.When it dries,the green patina is evident again.As I understand it ,this is because the wetting interferes with the refractive nature of verdigris until it evaporates.In the case of a fixative application.this interference is permanent.thereby ruining your efforts at patination.This is why I think that experimenting with various green pigmented washes,wet or dry,followed by a dull clear topcoat will prove more rewarding in the end.

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