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DavidG

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  1. Hello Peter, good luck for your search for the manual. It may sound silly at first... but if you have the plans and still feel the need to a pictorical manual, look thorugh a manual of a different ship from the website of Artesania Latina or Occre. These type of kits have very similar design, and you may get answers to building sequence, planking tips etc, even it's a different ship. Hope you find what you are looking for, though.
  2. Amati sells such blades like this one, but have a look around as there are different types of them. But this plastic tool is not designed to cut such thick strip as the 4x4. For that one you will need a saw. The use of this is to make repeated cuts by the same length or same angle, like cutting deck planks from thin strip (after adding a stop to the tray). If you can't cut the strip by a handheld knife, neither this tool will do.
  3. you may give it a good sanding, fill the gaps and add a further, thin 3rd layer of planking as an option.
  4. if you look for kits, the new Artesania Latina Victory section is probably the best one on the market now.
  5. you may have a look on the Artesania Latina Hermione kit for a second build here https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-advanced/484-wooden-model-ship-kit-hermione-la-fayette-frigate-8421426325171.html?mot_tcid=e87a7115-6a0e-4f2d-91d3-dbc3fbc2526a. It's a newer design than the Occre one, and definitely fulfils the need for detailed instructions. Still uses plywood parts a lot, but for the price it seems to be a decent offering.
  6. It wasn't a bad idea but.. Before painting, one-two layers of gloss varnish would prevent the paint soaking into the surrounding wood. Then you can brush paint the letters, wiping off the excess in the process, finally finishing off with flat varnish.
  7. I have one of these. It's made of plastic and not self-centering, the jaws must be adjusted one by one by plastic screws. I didn't find much use of it.
  8. on the Occre facebook page, people post pictures of their numbered Victory kits. Someone posted one with #249 on it. The kit must be a good seller, confirming they are on the top of the marketing game.
  9. Look fore Evergreen styrene strips in model stores. Most model train stores carry it. Alternatively, you can order AK strips from Spotmodel, which is just as good : https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=57771
  10. in addition to the good tips above, you may consider scratch building it from various strips, I would even consider styrene. There are no difficult shapes here, and the decorative trim can be made from brass wire or modified eyebolts. The panes can be built up from segments, glued to a transparent background, or maybe take some overscale kit gratings, and sand it thin.
  11. Then probably you could consider the minicraft 1/350 with the Tom modelworks photoetch detail. A great example shown at titanicmodel.net
  12. probably the cheapest option to make it yourself with premade profiles and plexiglas: https://store.amatimodel.com/en/eberle-saws-for-modeling/product-profiles-for-show-cases-b256002.html https://occre.com/en/collections/peanas-modelismo-naval
  13. Hi Evan, good luck for your bottom plating. I did it on mine, it took me a month, but enjoyed the process, despite most of it will be hidden. There seems to be three sources for the layout; the mentioned planking expansion, a scaled underbody view and the Woody kit. Note, all 3 are different patterns. The styrene kit is probably the less hassle, and fits well to the kit hull, however quite expensive. I investigated the planking expansion drawing as well, but it requires to re-draw it from scratch to the hull, which I didn't feel ready to do. So ended up using the bottom template from facebook, which neither fits very well to the existing plating of the kit, but by omitting some plates, can be tweaked to an acceptable result. There are around 500 plates to cut individually. Here is how it looks: The kit has some partial plate detail in the bow area, where I had to adjust what to include and what not. But after a coat of primer (which I sprayed yesterday) it looks acceptable. I look forward to see your approach. best, David
  14. you are good to go with scale 1 inch rivets. they will be very small if done in scale. here are the reference sizes. good luck for the build.
  15. You may have a look on Amati gun barrels, they have 27mm ones pretty cheap https://store.amatimodel.com/en/small-parts-and-accessories-for-model-making/product-metal-cannon-barrels-mm27-b416427.html
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