Jump to content

dashi

Members
  • Content Count

    233
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

551 profile views
  1. Yards: Here's a pic of all the yards complete with blocks and parrels showing the relationship to each other in their respective order from driver boom/left to top sprit yard/right. Since this pic I've increased the length of the brace pendants slightly using Steel's length formula for each yard which is a fraction of the given yard in feet then converted to fathoms. If 2 pendants then divide that number by two which allows enough length for strapping of the block and thimble around the yard. As per a previous post the jeer and tye blocks are according to Steel's description and tables for a ship of 400 to 450 tons. The topmast tye blocks should be 6 mm so have trimmed two doubles for the yard and ordered more along with more 3 mm blocks which I need to complete the build. Parrels are of 4 different types according to Steel, changing in size respective to their yards, it seems there is some lee way especially regarding the top gallants which can either be truck and rib or rope. Because according to Seel's tables the size of the gallant parrels are so small at only 8 inch which translates at 1/64 scale to 3mm I decided to opt for rope parrels. I would have done the same for the top sprit yard but it seems they are farely insistent that this be truck and rib so have used the kit supplied parts even though they are slightly over sized as I couldn't find or make anything smaller. Because the mizen top yard is on a pole it seems to be treated much the same as a gallant so am in 2 minds as to the parrel type, the size should be 11 inch which at 1/64 scale = 4.5 mm, the kit ribs are 7 mm so for now have gone with a rope parrel in keeping with the gallants. Standing Rigging: I've re done the collars on the lower masts to bring it all inline with Steel as I did for the bowsprit. The fore mast shrouds, stays and futtoc staffs are fitted. The futtoc staff is made from .75 black cord put on the stretch and painted. These are then lashed below shrouds to where the catharpins will be lashed, the same distance below the top of the cross trees to the bottom of the cap. The futtoc staff does not extend to the fore most shroud due to it being abreast the mast and consequently not catherpinned. The fore most catharpin looks like it will chaff the mast and pull the shroud out of line so I might cross the first two catharpins so they clear the mast, however I can't find any reference to this being done! Because I'm following the 'As fitted draft of 1768' Greenwich National Maritime Museum zaz7844, then the size and number of deadeyes on the channels differs from the kit and AOTS. The last two dead eyes on the fore and main channels I've reserved for the top mast back stays following Steels drawings; in the case of the fore mast my interpretation is: 2 pair of shrouds and one swifter per side; the main 3 pair of shrouds per side and the futtoc staff not extending to the aft most shroud as it has 4 catharpins and 6 shrouds. Hope this makes sense as it took a lot to nut out but once I got my eye in reading Steel's descriptions and tables then for the most part it started to make sense. I still might have overlooked or misinterpreted something for which I apologize in advance. Cheers dashi
  2. Thanks for the likes and for checking out the driver boom Dave. I must admit I was in 2 minds about installing the driver boom. What tipped my hand was that Endeavour did actually have one according to contemporary accounts, which to my limited knowledge I haven't seen fitted before so was curious and wanted to show it. As to the sail it carried there seems to be several options of which I'm yet to decide. 😀
  3. She looks great, well done and thanks for the tip on those flags which I might look into as I was wondering what do and they look good. Cheers dashi
  4. Thanks Pat Bowsprit: Time to take a closer look at my rigging and make corrections according to contemporary sources. Moved the collars and sprityard sling cleat as they were too close in toward the bow and placed them in order as best to my interpretation of Steel. The new positions give a straighter line on the fore top stay and fore stay and a little more space for the spritsail. The size in Steels tables for the shroud hearts or dead eyes is 7 inch so 3mm which I think looks more to scale. So replaced the kit supplied 7mm hearts to 3mm deadeyes as there seem to be plenty spare in the kit and according to Steel both hearts or dead eyes can be used here. Doubled the bobstays inline with Steel and contemporary Navy regs, and replaced the bobstay hearts to 5mm dble and sing blocks with the falls made fast to timber heads as can be seen in the pics. This is according Lever who states in The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor: Boomkins: added 2 inch thimbles to the shrouds inline with Steel. The brass forward of the slingcleat should be lead to protect the bowsprit from wear from the sprityard sling. Cheers Dashi PS. Forgot to mention at this scale to make thimbles I simply seize the cord around a rod of the size thimble I require and set it with ca glue and sometimes finish it with a little black paint.
  5. Driver boom and gaff: Have bashed the driver boom and dry rigged it and the gaff to ensure belay points and clear rope runs (lost count of how many attemts and corrections it took, dry assembling and taking down to redo). I used the following resources as the basis of the construction of the driver boom and rigging: The Art of Rigging by D Steel 1806, The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794, by David Steel, and The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever 1835 which although later has some wonderful illustrations and discriptions; and of course the aforementioned painting by Atkins and log entry by Cook. It's worth noting that when using Steel I needed to cross reference his tables for the sizes of rope and blocks etc for each part as they can change relative to the ships tonnage. It wasn't easy as there are several ways and combinations of rigging the mizen, each being correct given the situation whilst following certain criteria. For example you can rig a square cut mizen course without the driver boom, or with a driver boom to stretch the foot; the square cut course furled with the driver boom, and full driver sail temporarily rigged using halyards and a short yard at the gaff peak laced to the driver sail; the driver boom with driver sail laced to the gaff replacing the square mizen course completely (spanker?); and even a narrow temporary driver sail laced to a short yard at the gaff peak abaft of the square mizen course with a short footing boom going from the square mizen clue and projecting abaft over the tafferel as illustrated by Lever and which I think is what the AOTS mizen driver might be attempting or interpreting? As to the different ways of running the rigging there were many and where possible I have followed Steel except for the run of the sheet and the luff tackle cats clawed to it which instead of hooking to the tafferel, is hooked into an eye bolt through the boom abaft the it's goose neck and opposite it's belay cleat on the boom because of the light on the tafferel. This illustrated by Lever and functions as an outhauler but without an inhauler. Also Lever states that if a driver boom be fitted the the gaff should traverse up and down the mast, but this appears to be contradicted in one of his illustrations. I've run the sheet from the luff tackle up through a sheave in the end of the boom and temporarily made fast around the boom forward of the inner cleat. There were 2 options for attaching the driver boom to the mast: with jaws and parrel like the gaff resting on a timber abaft the mast around 6 to 7 ft off the deck or goose neck to an eye bolt banded around the mast which I've gone with 7 ft off the deck which clears everything with a slight upward angle. I discovered that the hooks are to long to fit the gutter eyebolts if they are fitted lengthwise, so I'm needing to twist each eyebolt 90 degs to the gutter or opject it might be close to. Having said and done all that, this of course is just my amateurish interpretation and so there are numerous other ways as I've mentioned and most likely some I don't know about yet of rigging the mizen. So much for a short discription but since this isn't described in the kit I wanted to share as much information I could. cheers Dashi
  6. Thanks Pat. Looking into this further I think if the driver boom were lost and both a driver boom sail and mizzen course we're carried then swap the driver sail out with the mizzen course, in which case exhibiting either sail configuration with or without the driver boom as described by Steel wouldn't be at odds. So either a copper sheet to stop jaw chafing or iorn band with hook for a driver boom as Steel describes needs to be fitted to the mizen mast and possibly the driver boom stowed or fitted accordingly. Cheers☺
  7. (cheers Dave) Another question regarding the driver or spanker boom which is not indicated in the Woolwich yard draught of 1771: (see edit below) http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86385.html However the driver boom washed overboard according to Cook's log entry of 16 Feb 1769 The driver/spanker boom is clearly evident in Samuel Atkins water colour of Endeavour off the coast of New Holland possibly painted in 1794. http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-135273911/view Edit... Excerpt from D Steel 1794 which defines the proportions of a driver boom agrees with the driver boom depicted in Atkins water colour mentioned above. Also because it is the same length as the main topsail yard and diameter of the fore topsail yard then there might be no need to mention it on the Woolwich draught of 1771? https://archive.hnsa.org/doc/steel/part1.htm#pg40 The AOTS seems to be at odds with the above evidence and indicates a different interpretation on p 113 which shows a separate sail as the driver hung from a small yard at the gaff peak after the mizen stay sail and stretched by short booms lashed to the rail at it's foot which KM interprets as the driver booms. A later entry in the log when masts and a steering boom were lost Cook states they were easily replaced by others (spares). So after reviewing the above evidence, should we assume the driver boom was replaced with a spare (simplest option), or the AOTS interpretation of a driver boom and mizzen course which are at odds with Steel's discription and Atkins painting?
  8. Jeers: Please help me if I've got this wrong. Taking a Bark to be classified as a small ship and cross referencing Steel's discription of rigging the lower yard jeers with his tables of running rigging for a 400 to 450 ton ship appears to indicate the use of 3 x 20 inch single jeer blocks. 1 on the yard and 2 lashed to the head according to the following excerpt: https://maritime.org/doc/steel/tables/pages/112-ShipOf22-20Guns.htm https://archive.hnsa.org/doc/steel/part7.htm#pg201 This appears to be at odds with KM's AOTS and the kit which seem to rig the jeers for a large ship from 677 tons upwards according to the size and number of jeer blocks stated in the aforementioned tables along with Steel's discription of rigging the lower yards on large ships. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/tables/pages/082-ShipOf32Guns.htm Am I reading this wrong and if so then please correct me? Cheers dashi
  9. Quote from "The Ship Builders Assistant 1766 written by William Sutherland" http://The Ship-builder's Assistant; Or, null. https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=hwhBd0jiVqAC
  10. Stirrups and horses first attempt: First set dry fitted on the main yard. The wire will be replaced by lashing at final fitting and the horse can be pulled through the thimbles on the stirrups then removed from the yard so I can make it's partner to the same length and the yard is clear when fitting its various blocks. The thimble on the end of the horse has been set with diluted white glue so it can be eased through the stirrup thimbles. At final fitting the stirrups and horses will be wetted and set using diluted white glue, the nails will be painted black and the stirrup lashings set and loose ends trimmed. The horse thimble is made by forming a loop and whipping around a small brass rod then fixed with ca glue but not allowed to stick to the rod. The stirrups are made using a small jig so I can insert the nail through the weave exactly 3ft to scale from the thimble while the thimble is held held so its eye will be in line parallel to the yard and then the nail is carefully set in place with a little ca glue. I found by dampening the small spot where the nail penetrates the weave with a drop of diluted white glue helps it separate the weave in the middle of the stirrup cord. I might add a photo of the jig a bit later but for now wanted to get this uploaded to check if it all looks ok?
  11. Thanks Dave. Update: Yards Here's some pics of the stages of making the yards up to painting. I've basically followed the method laid out by Steel https://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/page-1/ while using the measurements given by Woolwich Dockyard 1771 http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86385.html. As I don't have a lath I've just used the plane and sandpaper. It took a while to set the plane blade to the right depth so my first practice attempts were on cheap dowel until I got it right. First I planed the dowel square to the required width, then down to octagonal and finally divided each half into quarters and progressively shaved one layer off per each of the outer 3/4s , tapering to the ends leaving the middle quarters octagonal (see pic). Then sanded the outer 3/4s to 16 sides and sanded to round. There maybe other methods which work better but I'm happy with the results. After shaping I cut the battens from spare 3x.05 mm in the kit, trimmed to width and rounded the ends, then applied to the octagonals using white glue. When dry I carefully duck billed the ends using a craft knife with curved blade. (not mentioned in the kit) For the the cleats, farrell's, rings and boom irons I used the kit supplied parts and referred to Steel for respective positioning and shaping. Then painted the first coat and gave a light 400 grit sanding before applying the second coat to give a relatively smooth finish. Next will be fitting the horses and blocks etc to the yards. Edit: I wasn't happy with the kit gaff jaws so carved out a replacement.
  12. Thanks Pat. As for a chart table I'm not sure, but I'd imagine it would be in the cabin safe from wind and weather. Possibly the survey was plotted on the plane table and then transferred onto the chart in the cabin? Here's a link to National Museum Australia which has some info and a couple of Cook's navigational instruments http://www.nma.gov.au/explore/collection/highlights/captain-cooks-navigational-instruments . Cheers
  13. Thanks for the interest and comments. Thanks Judy that's really interesting. I got the idea for the plane table as it was a listed item for the endeavour and read that Bligh one of Cook's understudies mentioned Cook surveyed by drawing lots of triangles. So putting that all together and with my military navigational experience of triangulation wanted to show Cook as the expert cartographer he was and represent Endeavour as a science vessel. Interesting point about using sight and sound to guage distance. Makes me wonder if the boat mounted swivel guns were used for that purpose also? To make it work the platform Cook built over the tiller needed to be fit for purpose. Considering that Cook also refers to the mast tops as platforms in his log I took that as my guide for its construction. Cheers
  14. Re parrels: From my understanding, according to Steel the top yards including gallants etc have parrels. The lower yards including the crossjack have truss pendants and slings. Rigging Period Ship Models by Kenneth Peterson has good diagrams of how it's done and appears to compliment Steel's descriptions. The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794, by David Steel, https://maritime.org/doc/steel/part7.htm#pg204

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×