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Beef Wellington

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About Beef Wellington

  • Birthday June 26

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  1. I would have thought a feature like a dolphin striker would have been replaced many times and been structurally subject to evolution over time. Sorry I can't opine on whether this is the Constitution or not, but not sure its appropriate to use a relatively minor structural element as a basis for confirmation one way or the other. I would think the same argument could be made for masting and bowsprit proportions following trends of a particular period.
  2. Always intrigued by these card models, they look very interesting and a nice subject matter. Definitely looking forward to following your progress.
  3. Chuck - where do you get your brass strip from, or do you cut it yourself from sheets? If so, how do you do that? Many thanks.
  4. Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me.... The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position. A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains. There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out. For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place. This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones). Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible. My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known. Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans. Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges. These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets. These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension. Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these.
  5. Will definitely be following along on this, love the pre-Dreadnaughts. Looking at her beside the Yamato without all the extraneous deck fittings and armament in picture above shows a lot of resemblance to form U-boats and later submarines.
  6. Yes, very nice companion cover BE, the subtle plank edge highlighting looks just right - if I had a vote, I'd vote to keep it natural, but could be swayed either way depending on how you are planning to finish the coamings to get a nice contrast.
  7. Beef Wellington

    HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft

    Hi Stergios, I followed the same principle for the other stays. i.e. where a pair is possible on each side, these were looped and seized around the mast top. Where a single is necessary, a false splice was made to make a loop to go over the mast top.
  8. The stern came together very well and seems you've got the tricky alignment just right with the various curvatures of the rails, looks very pleasing...and well done for getting the coppering done, certainly not one of the most interesting or diverse activities but looking very good. Will be following from here on if I may.
  9. I've found that photocopying or scanning/printing the plans and then cutting out the profiles as a guide is pretty easy. As for cutting out the cut parts, you don't mention how thick it is or the material, but anything from a larger Exacto blade to a fret saw could work. Even thick walnut tends to cut easily with a sharp blade and patience, plywood or MDF likely needs a toothed blade. Take it easy as you can trim off any excess once its free with a sanding stick. Good luck!
  10. ...and start a build log so everyone can follow along and help answer the next question that will undoubtedly arise 🙂
  11. Hi Jim, just a thought, I wonder if you were to go with the 'yellower' initial colour, it would fit in better to my eye. You could try doing the spots in relief with a drill bit, and highlighting with a slightly darker colour which I think would be a little subtler. All artistic opinion of course. Looks great in any event.
  12. Congrats OC, beautiful model of a great looking ship!
  13. Really nice result on the cap rail edge molding, really seems to finish things off and all the detail blends in beautifully. I similarly ponder the rear ports, I'm not convinced .they would be workable on the Snake/Cruiser class either but they are there. I can only envisage them being used for rope work, mooring etc similar to the ubiquitous lower ports seen on larger ships when clearly there are also more practical, better positioned true stern gun ports - in any event they look great.
  14. Looking very nice Mark, I can't help but feel this would make a nice kit. Have you considered going there?
  15. Destruction... Need to jump in and get going with the destruction to correct the gun ports so this doesn't derail me. There will be 3 or 4 ports per side that need to be moved, so doing individually would not make sense. Fortuitously, I had used a strip of 6mm wide box for the uppermost strake. With one minor exception, the rough cut ports don't extend below this so replacing this one strake seems to be the way to go. Started off on the port side using isopropyl alcohol and a sharp blade to try to pry the 1mm thick strip from the 1.5mm thick template. Although I eventually got there, its a real dogs breakfast (mess). I just couldn't get the isopropyl to penetrate where I needed it sufficiently without compromising the surrounding structures (the template is laminate strip which will de-bond as well if too much isopropyl is used). As you can see in the pictures, a couple of shards got stripped away in the process where the box strip had been edge glued and but not sufficiently softened. The isopropyl also got onto the painted surface below and marred the finish, so this will need touching up. Once replaced, filled and finished, hoping this will not be noticeable. Before tackling the starboard side, the approach needed to be amended to allow the isopropyl to penetrate more thoroughly and evenly. Took a while, drilled a multitude of holes in the strake to be removed and then applied the isopropyl. Despite taking a while to drill, this was SO much easier and gave a MUCH cleaner result. It also allowed the glued edges to soften sufficiently to debond cleanly. Now the scary part is over, the strake can be replaced and the template ports filled before getting back to where I was with the channels....

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