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About Beef Wellington
- Birthday June 26
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Been a long time since I've commented, but very much enjoyed catching up on your excellent work on this wonderful build. Love the colours you've chosen on the pinnace which are a pleasant change and gives a very period feel. I've just ordered this little kit myself from Chris, so hoping mine turns out half as well as yours. Great stuff!
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Diana 1794 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Diana 1794 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64
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Hi David, so pleased to see you have completed her, unfortunately I've not been 'around' for a bit so missed the last steps in real time. Congratulations! You have created a truly spectacular model, and I have greatly enjoyed following your build from the start and learning with you, one of the great fellowship of Diana builders 🙂 I look forward to catching up with your future builds! All the best, Jason
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The boxwood is looking very nice Dave. Other than the visual benefit of the much nicer Amati plates, the other advantage is that you can lay rows of them as a single piece if you break them carefully from the sheet. Once glued in position, you would never know, and it can help keep the rows in line more easily....think its also quicker!
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Well done Alistair, I also have these beauties in waiting and you've set a very high bar. Love the wick, just out of interest what did you use? Your thought on the wire support seems a good one.
- 49 replies
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I think you'll find that gallery former is very oversized. Suggest determining the right size and then playing around with the various items to get the best compromize. I never used this part. There are going to be compromises needed between the plans, AOTS and even the original plans because none of them reconcile exactly. Playing with the PE quarter gallery lights may also help you get a better sense of the final visual proportions. Good luck!
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DaveBaxt started following Beef Wellington
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Looking very nice Dave! I think your decision to hold off on cutting the upper cannon/carronade ports is a sound one, these are no harder to do at a later date and as you indicate, you will have more data points to make a good decision. As I'm sure you've read, the placement of the stern fascia is difficult and can result in frustration down the road. The advice I would give would be to determine the position of the quarter galleries first (the bottom of the quarter gallery lights are at exactly the same height above the main deck as the lower edge of the gunports). This then will allow you to position the stern fascia with confidence as the sweep of the lower edge of the stern lights meets up with the lower edge of the quarter gallery lights. (You will need to account for the additional distance to the outside of the quarter gallery here). Adjustments to the lines of the upper and lower counter to match are more easily done at this point.
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The Ekeing and Cathead supporter: The Ekeing is a detail as presented in the kit that consists of a simplified approach consisting of cat head supporter and ubiquitous white metal moldings. I was determined to make this as prototypical as I could as shown on the plans. Studying numerous contemporary models, this is a detail that seems to vary quite a lot, and I'm unsure whether this varied significantly from ship to ship, or whether the model builders took their own simplified approaches. The following photos of Minerva helped a lot in visualizing this complex shape consistent with the original plans (photos are my own taken at the Rogers Collection). This was a very humbling experience and definitely one of the more challenging pieces to make, requiring many hours of fiddling and sanding. In short (!) , the Eking and cathead supporter needs to meet the following criteria: Narrow from 3mm to approx 2mm at the middle rail to butt into it cleanly Follow the curve of the hull Extend the graceful curve of the middle rail up to the cathead when viewed from the side Be positioned such that the cathead sits snuggly against the top of the main rail, and is perpendicular to the hull Follow a smooth curve outboard from the cathead to the lower rail, the ekeing curving forward almost immediately below the cathead Pass just upward of the outboard hawse hole, but cross the inner....(differing from Minerva above) I had a couple of abortive attempts which while failures, were very helpful in helping me understand the approach described in TFFM Vol 2. The best piece of advice here is focus on one curved face at a time. A cardboard template was made to approximate the profile (this was initially estimated using the spare metal molding strips which work well for this). (Note: In the photos below, the various rails have been cut out to allow placement of the final rail. (When the template was made this had not been done which made this a little more challenging and subject to approximation) The profile of the hull at the bow was taken using a profile gauge and transferred to block of balsa. The ekeing template was transferred to some 5mm pear sheet and cut out leaving quite a bit of excess. The hull profile was then introduced onto the inward face. The shaped balsa block helped a lot in this exercise to allow frequent validation. Once the inner profile had been finalised, the card template could be used to fine tune the shape. This has to be transferred onto the curved surface that will sit against the hull, and it important to remember that the profile on the outboard face will be different because the shape will follow perpendicular to the interior face (i.e. the hull). Some excess was still left here to allow additional fine tuning. The top of the profile was then thickened using some more 5mm pear, and the cathead supporters roughly shaped and glued into place. The cathead supporters were attached perpendicular to interior face, not the exterior face. This rough structure can then be further fine tuned, again using the template on the inner surface and ensuring that the top and bottom face are perpendicular to this along its length. Following the advice in TFFM, The sternmost face was worked first, and once finalized, the inside curve was worked using the outside as a guide. Once these had been completed, the outboard curve following the underside of the cathead supporter was introduced. The lower version shown below still required a lot of fine tuning on the model. Once happy with the shape, the position on the model could be determined, and the decorative rails cut to allow the ekeing to sit flush against the hull. This was definitely a little nerve wracking and will require a little touch up when all is said and done. (The outer surface profiling was not introduced until after this work had all been done and position finalised - these still require some finishing as these photos embarrassingly highlight...) The end of the ekeing also needed to have the shape of the hawse hole introduced onto its lower edge to open that up.To allow the position to be determined, the catheads also needed to be madeup. The "cathead" decorations on the end was made from polymeric clay and followed the very nice original example originally on Trincomalee and other contemporary models - they look a little more acceptable at a distance! Not much else to comment on other than the dimensions and decoration were estimated from the original plans and inspired by contemporary models. These will get further attention in due course. The upper rail is still just pinned in place and will require the top to be shaped prior to final installation. Overall, I'm very pleased with how this came together, the various lines seem to flow quite nicely when viewed from the side which was a goal entering into this. The plansheer, ekeing, catheads and upper rail are all still dry-fit at this stage....but think I can move forward with more confidence.
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Looking very nice Alistair, Colour scheme is a nice change.
- 49 replies
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Fascinating project, very interested in seeing this come together.
- 124 replies
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