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Beef Wellington

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About Beef Wellington

  • Birthday June 26

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  1. Beef Wellington

    Black Pearl by Old Collingwood - 1/72 Scale

    Love the last set of photos, really show how well you have subtly highlighted the small details which adds so much interest to the hull. Windows came out really well, how much did you dilute the PVA?
  2. Beef Wellington

    Granado by RMC - Caldercraft - 1:64

    Bulkheads have turned out really well despite the challenges and colors compliment very nicely. I keep looking at the pictures and can’t see the gaps you’re referring to.
  3. Happy Thanksgiving to all of those in the US! Unfortunately the shipyard has had to suddenly close due to a minor, but messy, health and safety violation involving a clumsy thumb and Xacto knife - nothing serious but plasters/band-aids preventing fine work. Good opportunity to sit back and ponder gun rigging as I'll need to order additional materials from Syren. Think I'm done with additional detailing on the cannons in the interests of sanity; Monograms are from Syren, given a quick dash of 'dark iron' Cpaint and glued into place with CA Cap-square eyebolt made with wire and the cap square joint bolt is one of the smaller PE ring bolts. First mock up of potential rigging, as previously discussed, the breech rope is 0.88mm Syren line. This line does make the half hitch a little more cumbersome, but think it can still work, even though they will be somewhat hidden even for most visible guns in the waist. Going to live without the wheel lynch pin and cap square pin/chain. Cannon rigging: Breeching rope does require some dilute PVA to hold into position on the button. Wanted to give the hauling tackle a feeling of 'weight', and have been experimenting assembling these off the model using a serving machine to get consistent spacing and also do the frapping. Procedure still to be finalised… Details as follows: Block are 1/8" (3.18mm) single/double blocks from Syren Blocks are stropped with 0.012"(0.3mm) line Port tackle line is 0.008" (0.2mm) line Hooks are 4mm from Syren (these are black plastic which I ordered some time ago and don't think Chuck still offers them which is a shame as they seem easy to work with)
  4. Very interested to see this 'officially' come together, this is a beautiful ship - of course there can be no complaints about the kit 🙂
  5. You really are motoring Ian and she's looking very nice! Would not have noticed the gun port height issue, very cunning fix. Good luck with the roof, also, a very nice clamp collection 🙂
  6. Beef Wellington

    Dubz Zvezda Star Destroyer 1:2700

    Now that looks awesome and the case came out really well, love the blue glow of the engines.
  7. Those breeching rings came out really nicely an look just perfect, I'm sure at 1:48 its worth going that extra step to close these. I really need to dive in and learn soldering and metal working techniques, been a little wary to try up to now. Love overall photo with the cut out figure, he enhances the look of the model by being a little more well defined than the ubiquitous "Captain Amati"...
  8. Glad I have just found your log before you have got too far Valeriy, love this style of model. Making all of the metal parts must be so time consuming and sadly I'm not familiar with the techniques so looking to be educate by you. I can't even imagine the amount of work you have ahead of you...but it will be worth it.
  9. Mike - yes, the scuppers are PE from the kit...and yes, I had the same experience as you! The carpet monster also ate a few, and I don't even have carpet! I found the technique of attaching to masking tape, smearing some CA glue on the back side and then positioning, seemed to be enough time to adjust before it fully set. Holes were drilled at an angle to the hull to try and give the impression of the tube angling up to the deck, but that proved a little hit or miss. Closeup, think the PE definitely looks overscale, but from regular viewing distance they blend in OK, and they will probably blend further when the other hull fixtures are added. Well, I asked the question and MSW answered!! Thanks everyone for your input, you've swayed me to the larger size, not a single vote for the smaller dimension. Of course the larger rope will require far more taming but I'll solve that in due course. Now to figure out how to attach to the ringbolt with a scale appropriate solution... Just before putting this to bed, here is a picture I found from Endeavour which shows a smaller size breech rope which initially played into my deliberation.
  10. Sadly this bring back many memories....I did the triangle solution, don't recall whether it was even possible to achieve what is illustrate in the plans. Think your approach of working the gun port ply based on the deck position is a very sound approach. If its any consolation, the Diana kit is just as unintuitive/unhelpfull at the stern counter as well, I made up my own template. When I was building Snake which was my first build, these are the challenges I put down to my lack of understanding when in reality the kits have just aged. If it hadn't been for this site, I would never have got past this early stage.
  11. Carl - sadly Victory doesn't have any 18lb'ers... Found the exact info I needed after a lot of digging in the 'armament' section: This translates as follows: 24lb 6 1/2" circumference - 0.82mm diameter at 1:64 18lb 5 1/2" circumference - 0.69mm diameter at 1:64 9lb 4 1/2 circumference - 0.57mm at 1:64 So not surprisingly, the smaller size is slightly too small (91% of actual), and the larger too large (127% of actual). Mathematics would point the smaller size being least inaccurate, so as always it seems it comes down to the 'eye of the beholder'. Interestingly, I had initially leaned toward the larger size as well, but changed my view. Cannons on Trincomalee are 18lb'ers, but the breech rope do look bulkier, however no info to suggest that these are indeed the 'period correct' size either. And so the modelers dilemma, follow sources, try to replicate (possibly inaccurate) real life examples, and/or follow your eye! (The cheesed hauling tackles jump out at me as a little incongruous being probably not contemporary practice (rather than more practical frapping) but this is a look modelers follow because it does look good!) The jury is still out...of course, this isn't a matter of life and death, its way more important than that 🙂
  12. Beef Wellington

    Bismarck by Channell - Trumpeter 1/200

    Beautiful model, I take my hat off to you Channell on your patience (and all others.) who also) enhance with PE. The results are really amazing and I think always makes the incredibly hard and tedious look simple when just looking at the results. The wood deck is a really nice addition with all the individually coloured planks. I too would like to see more of the Hood!
  13. She's looking REALLY good Kevin, glad you are back working on her.
  14. Beef Wellington

    Granado by RMC - Caldercraft - 1:64

    Bob - that's a really well executed repair. Looking forward to seeing your painted panels, think less than perfect painting looks better than the artificial perfections of decals. Everything is really coming together nicely, very nice neat work.
  15. @Pat - I tried using a very fine sanding stick after coat of primer had been sprayed on. This worked in some cases, but less so in others, and not at all in all those hard to reach corners. I've never seen many samples of 3D printing to compare to so I may be being a little unfair, and of course it comes down to the materials supplied. I ordered the "Smoothest Fine Detail' option which was the 'best' finish of those available. Its odd as one side is almost perfect, the other much rougher...https://www.shapeways.com/product/9VPR7D8CW/1-64-lower-capstan-18th-and-19th-century?optionId=64749325. I suspect other materials offered by other suppliers could give better results. Taking stock: Not too much time in the shipyard this weekend, trying to get the garden ready for winter. The shipyard did however get a bit of a spring cleaning as I was getting a little bit tired of working in a 2"x2" square on my cutting mat despite working on a pretty large table. A few overall shots of where things stand as its been a while. Now the channels are glued, the chainplate locations could be drilled as well as the emergency rigging eyebolt positions. The scuppers have also been completed. The positioning of all of these things requires quite a bit of planning and luckily I didn't encounter any problems with the airing ports. (I seem to recall leaving off the foremost one because it is very tightly positioned between preventer links and would have been impossible to locate correctly and likely resulted in a necessary compromise with the chain alignments. Nearly all the parts for the upper gun deck have been completed an I'm still following the mantra of not gluing something into place until it absolutely needs to progress. Syren rope will be used, and I would welcome peoples' opinions on which size to use for the breech rope. Picked two sizes that seemed most appropriate, left is 0.025"/0.63mm, the right is 0.35"/0.88mm. Even though I'm sure it exists, I can't find info on what regulation would be - and even if I did, the carriages and barrels are best efforts at matching scale and undoubtedly not spot on, so the right "look" is probably more important. Upon consideration, I think I'm leaning toward the smaller size, but again would appreciate input...

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