SpyGlass

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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. This is a very small vessel - a hawse hole for working the anchor would seem redundant - no room below decks for a start. Light gear and anchor etc ect The plans rather strike me as like a small fishing boat sized vessel trying to pretend its a man of war Not saying there would not be an aperture there BUT if i were sailing this vessel in quite a light sea with a bit of heel I would be unhappy ! Not same period but I have sailed and skippered a couple of vessels about this size - both had deck fitting hawse pipes similar size and position as illustrated
  2. I have some black strip coloured right through in my wood box - always wondered what it was -its not ebony. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8650-hm-schooner-pickle-by-spyglass-caldercraft-164-scale/&do=findComment&comment=441220 I thought I had it from my Unicorn build many years ago. Do they not include black strip any more - or have I got the kit I got it from wrong ?
  3. Do you not use Lego for this !! https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8650-hm-schooner-pickle-by-spyglass-caldercraft-164-scale/&do=findComment&comment=269735
  4. They are indeed actually Neodymium I am getting these http://www.first4magnets.com/search/craft-model-making-magnet-selection-pack-pack-of-32-magnet
  5. I bought a couple of nobium magnets for "doing science" with my grandson. But these are too powerful for a small child. Then I had a glimmer that in the days before the big crash someone had suggested their use as "clamps" So I gave it a whirl and there seems to be some mileage in this . Has anyone else got any experience.?? The pair I have are 12.5 x 5 mm and are actually maybe a bit too strong if anything. But here we are - a couple of pics One inside the hull One outside on the strip to be placed These are really a bit on the large side and a bit too strong - it takes REAL force to move the strip once the magnets are place I have ordered up a trial pack of assorted size and strengths about 40 for £10 so not to expensive if they work Just thought - I should try to use a magnet and a bit of steel - that may be better than two strong magnets
  6. POINTING. Tapering the end of a rope, or splice, and working over the reduced part a small close netting, with an even number of knittles twisted from the same, to prevent the end untwisting, and to go more easily through a block or hole. Courtesy Historic Naval Ships Assoc Refer to The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor: Or similar books for precise details !
  7. In your case - smoooth is correct -. But some vessels did/do have a step but it is a souce of weakness and was usually avoided
  8. I regret to say - I just had a quick look at this (Kindle version) and Frankie is right
  9. I reveal to you - "Spyglass construction secret 12" - the garboard is underneath - nobody can see it on the finished model. Or the wimps way out - copper the bottom. ( actually I take that back - coppering well is far harder than getting the Garboard right) More seriously the big beginners mistake is to let the garboard strake and the next few planks rise at the stem. And it helps immensely if your have at least some sort of rabbet no matter how simple. Additionally if you can find some wider stock for the garboard strake it often goes together better - real life practice too ! There are many guides to planking in various tutorials and books but can i give two pointers. One I have found really useful is Chucks Cheerful build - he uses a light wood with the edges delineated so if you view his build you get an excellent visual guide https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8131-hm-cutter-cheerful-1806-148-scale-by-chuck/&do=findComment&comment=270650 and though I hate to mention myself in a post along with Chuck here is a pic as I practiced a garboard fit which I think shows the bit you are asking about. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8650-hm-schooner-pickle-by-spyglass-caldercraft-164-scale/&do=findComment&comment=286793 Of course purists and real build would not allow the sharp end - it should be squared off and fitted into the stem - but that is one step too far for me ! Help to know what you are building and to what scale of coirse
  10. If you want to go very fancy - depleted uranium works well I hear ! Use in 747s and PenDuick I believe
  11. Just a quick two pennyworth. You cannot duplicate most sailing vessels characteristics with internal ballast its mainly a matter of "moments" if you rememeber your school science - Have alook at the old pond yachts which were often made to very high standards If yoi want a topsl you will need a lot of keel below the scale hull Many such boats of course had detachable keels which enabled them both to be srtowed and look pretty when displayed
  12. Rather than "aft shrouds" I worked a 60 ft cutter some years ago (actually just noticed its the one i am steering in my profie pic) which had "running backstays" taken to ring bolts on deck aft. B***y nuisance because on a tack you had to cast off or at least heavily ease one while making up the other. In a fair wind one always felt likely to lose the mast while doing it. Anyway my point is that mast supports of that kind may be relevant to you. I may have a pic somewhere
  13. REALLY ???????? Well it takes all sorts then ! But anyway now its sorted its all fine - thanks Kurt
  14. Thanks Kurt - its just a fraction more complicated on my version One clicks on it the little "i" , then the right point arrow,and then go to more information at the bottom and you get a whole menu with tabs go to permissions tab and halfway down the list you find the tickbox which covers notifications and that gets it !!!!!! But why is this only this site seems to give me problems - could the webmaster turn the "feature" off ??
  15. I may be being thick - BUT - why am I being bombarded - ONLY from this site - with "web push notifications". How does one get rid of these unwanted intrusions which pop up every couple of mouse clicks - I am using latest Firefox browser . No setting - Mozilla or site - seems to make the slightest difference - guidance ?