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About SpyGlass

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  1. yes - " bog standard" fitting on older yachts - used precisely as described - for "Warping". If one is say end for ending along side it is handy just to be able to take out and "drop" the line into the fitting during the manouevre. (Though it is badly led - I think the "chafe" in the picture is actually the fuzzy end of a splice - i was just reading an article on that point - did one need to finish a splice neatly)
  2. It would be lashed as normal like this - but I should hope tidier ! And these lashings would need to be better for heavy weather .
  3. huum seesm to have two logs mixed here SkipW and Dfel ??
  4. What happened to the log gap - and how did you progress so quickly !
  5. Sorry !! Thats really fine. Its just strange to me that the kit doesnt make it clear that the kit stand is a BUILDING cradle not a display one and I have seen several mistaken waterlines resulting.
  6. That painting is really good - and the port edges seem absolutely fine to me. Query - I am sure its just the picture angle - but she looks a tad bow high - did you use the little spacer thing ( part 14 waterline jig) to level the vessel? Its shown on Plan Sheet2 and I HARDLY DARE mention this but the water line tool is on the same sheet ( or is that your TV 😁!!) One advantage of course of varnish and no copper - you dont need to mark the waterline - another tip for the idle modeller !
  7. Now you REALLY make me feel guilty about getting on with my build. The Amati plates are good - much the best I have seen - it is just my personal preference not to copper. I have just had a look at my build - I would keep clear of trying to line the ports - very fussy job and with a bit of filler there will be no problem. A bit late - but there are two ways of getting a nice - bulwark to deck paint line. I usually prepaint the bottom bulwark strip after getting the fit and shape right. Or you can add an additional strip - painted or not to cover the join and that represents properly the construction as was. or the OTHER way - learn to paint properly - I never have ! Thank you for the compliment on my planking - its the bit I am best at - its afterwards the rot sets in. And i was doing a quick count - I have built 14 PoB vesels - I SHOULD be getting vaguely competent at something by now !
  8. Real vessels have layers - some of which show at ports. If you want to be REALLY fussy you could line the ports - but if you are painting then just a bit of smoothing will be fine. If I were you though - I would matt varnish the hull and show off your work ! You may though fnd you will benefit from a bit finer sanding of the hull planking before starting to paint ( or varnish) I am sitting with my three year in Pickle build behind me and I am being shamed into getting on with it - except your first time go is looking better than mine !!!
  9. i was aware of the technique but had never tried Its the fact that the plugs match so well with what you would see in reality - hardly visible but there. Impressive. But that article is intriguing in many ways. I suspect that there are little bits of information tucked away all over the site in build logs which do not get seen unless you are interested in that build I shall have a think and maybe we can suggest to the moderators some "cross reference" system But I am sharpening my needles - I shall try it !
  10. well i think they are amongst the VERY best representations of actual deck fittings I have ever seen . I think many members would like some more details and close up shots of your method
  11. Thats coming along VERY nicely indeed Peter!! I do like the deck nailing - looks just like the real thing with wooden plugs - how did you do that ?
  12. This is a pic of a later stage using a "fake Rabbet" to fix the wale I am still looking to see if I can find more pics - there are some on my Pegasus log here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/420-hms-pegasus-by-simonthepieman-victory-models-164-started-by-spyglass/&do=findComment&comment=7999 but a huge amount disappaered with my last Fly build log in the "BIG CRASH" here a couple of very old shots from an old Fly build as well. You can see how i used clamps and odd bits of scrap wood to "mould" the "S" curves and this shot illustrates the overlength gun port strips EVEN after moving them back a bit
  13. Hey thats a good idea ! It may have been me you saw the pic from - I use the technique mainly to get strip planking in.. Normaly i leave off the stem and stern posts until after first planking - it is easier to get the curve firrard if you can actually bens a longer strip ariunf the stem. But the clamp works quite well - i use the scrap from the keel ply/or mdf since its already has the shape and just clip it to the stem But for the gunport strips its a little more complex. First you need to trim the length of the strips the stern hal is easy and can be just left till later. The forrard strips need to be positioned backwards so that only about 1mm of the bulkhead show through the "jigsaw " joint. if you have faired the forrard bulk head properly the strip will STILL be overlong and i usually find I need to take about 2 -3 mm of the front - which means remaking the bow sprit slot. I will wanfder off and see if I can find some pics i think tehre is some on my last Pegasus log and maybe in my files . I shall add them later if I find anything
  14. No probs. Your build is coming along nicely. it actually gave me a prod to go and dig out a few other "jigs " etc that i used on this and other builds.. Quick tip - while you have the bulk heads up now - you can start soaking and bending the gunport strips - best done in many steps and much easier to get clamps and rubber bands into action before too much clutter arrives. Not saying fit them yet just start the soaking and bending you really can get them so they are almost an exact fit, you will have seen from the other logs that they need a bit of adjustment fore and aft but you can leave that trimming till later ( from your pics Iam not sure if you have fixed the stem yet - if not leave it off for a bit its soo much easier to bend the gunport strips with it off.
  15. Can I be a bit pedantic I think the feeler gauge was an idea from me originally - though I expect many variants of it have been used over the years - there is nothing new under the sun !! And the idea of a kerf in a block of wood works well - I also use it to sand the edges of the tanganyka and similar thin strips

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