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Maurys

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About Maurys

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    Maury S

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  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Recent Builds:
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Current project Anchor Hoy 1:48 scratch

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/

    Nautical Research Guild

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

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  1. Maurys

    Merchant Pinrail Diagrams

    Always check ABEbooks.com for old or out of print books. They are a consolidator and have access to an amazing collection of book sellers. Maury
  2. While waiting for glue to dry, I set up the jig for the two ladders on the boat. Basically right out of Greg Herbert's TFFM Vol. 3. The flat top sits on top of a spine to fit in the mill vise. The sides will be cut to length later. Maury
  3. Ed, I'm anxious to get those spacers out. It's rigid enough now to take it off the board and work on fairing the frames on the outer edge. I think there is a minor twist from dead flat aft so I'll have to deal with that. Mark, Early in the log you can see the process of building the frames. Each is lofted separately. They are 6" (1/8" at scale) paired. The spacing is 12".
  4. The clamps for the main deck are installed on both sides. Shown below are those on the starboard side. Test beams were laid across at various points and everything is fair. Now on to the clamps for the quarterdeck. Much tighter fit there. Maury
  5. I think "Nail Hole Filler" is the same as wood putty. Varathane and MinWax sell a wide range of colors in Big Box stores. Maury
  6. Dave, The Challenge was one of the boats I considered. As it turns out, the C.Chase has very little information and Chapelle's notes don't go very far in the description. On the other hand, with all the info. I've gathered (with the generous help of many maritime researchers and historians) on these types of boats, there seems to be ample data to complete the model, and no one will be able to challenge the smaller details. Maury
  7. Dave, They are hand-made, right out of Ed Tosti's books. (Probably Naiad). Mine are very simple since I don't have a way of having a left-handed as well as right-handed threaded rod. Maury
  8. Thank you Michael. The gauge came right out of one of Ed Tosti's books. Maury
  9. Some additional internal fairing needed to be done. Installing the clamps comes next. Spiling the internal plank is a bit different from the external planks. I started with some card stock taped inside the frames and marked the height of the bottom of the deck from the bottom of the false keel at every three frames on the card. I then marked down the thickness of the deck beams. I used a ships curve to connect the marks and cut out a template. Card bends differently from wood so I transferred the card template to some sacrificial bass wood and made the necessary adjustments to the rough shape. The top edge is the one that counts. Clamping the plank in place showed a little more trimming was necessary. Everything now fits smoothly. I'll transfer this form to the Swiss pear that will be used for the final clamp. Now to repeat on the port side and do the same for the quarterdeck. Maury
  10. Maurys

    Wood Storage Idea

    I think you will find the tall strips will take on a bend if stored vertically. (been there, done that.) The wood should be stored flat (use tubes or boxes if you like to keep pieces sorted by size.) Maury
  11. Transferring top of beam measurements from plan to the boat. The camera angle distorts where the line lands. I now have to measure down to the top of the clamp. Maury
  12. All the keelsons are in. There are several pieces holding things together since the frames set into the side of the well. The cross section design was shown in an earlier post. A note about the simulated bolts. The use of the monofilament line came from Ed Tosti (EdT). I have developed a technique with the line after several models. If I can pre-insert them I do so. This involves slicing a taper in the line to aid in insertion in the drilled holes. I push the line through the hole from the finished side of the plank or beam, dip it in CA and pull it back through the hole until flush on the under side. Then it is clipped off with flat nippers. This way, there is no CA residue that needs to be wiped off (with acetone...nasty stuff). I also run a soldering iron over the exposed ends of the line, which finishes it off more like a bolt head. Maury
  13. Ed, I did use a spacer in the CB well when I was gluing up the frames. I think it's an illusion in that pic. The next post will show all the keelsons glued in place with the centerboard in the well. One side of the well will be fully planked. The other not so much. The challenge has been to keep the pivot pin aligned as it must go through all the keelsons, the CB well planking and the centerboard. Thanks for your comments...always appreciated. Maury
  14. The last (half) frame going in. A beam held from the gantry puts pressure on the frame at the keel/rising wood while the glue dries. A square lines up the outer edge of the frame to the waterline on the building board. The temporary cross member supporting the CB log has been removed. I don't know how I would have held parts in place without the gantry / building board setup. All the frames are in. While the spacers between the frames distort the fair line of the tops of the frames in the photo there is still a lot of fairing to do . Right now I'm smoothing the tops of the frames at the keel for the keelsons. The keelsons will add a lot of support. Sanding block, straight on one edge, curved on the other can be seen on the right. Maury
  15. It's been a while...Lofting and installation of frames continues. The final frames are those that occur at the centerboard well. That makes them all half-frames and the jig for those is the same as the half frames fore and aft. On the port side, the frames fit into the lowest plank of the centerboard well. On the starboard side, the frames notch into the keel / rising wood and butt up against the CB well planking. Multiple keelsons will go over the frames on both sides. The hole for the CB pivot pin can be seen in the planking (right side). Since the keelsons will cover it, they (the keelsons) will have to be bored out to allow for potential replacement. The horizontal piece supporting the top of the CB well log is temporary. Maury

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