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Maurys

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About Maurys

  • Rank
    Maury S

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Recent Builds:
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Current project Anchor Hoy 1:48 scratch

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/

    Nautical Research Guild

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

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  1. Frame 16 is now installed and the post and horn timbers are temporarily in place to make sure everything glues up properly. The outer two timbers butt against the aft side of the frame so the joint is inherently weak. I'll put in some cross-framing to stabilize everything before removing the jig. All pieces fit nicely...no major trimming necessary. By the way, the jig has a crown (bend) in it to match the eventual tops of the timbers. All I have to do is chisel / sand down to the top of the jig. After that's done, I'm on to the remaining frames in the area of the centerboard well. They are a series of half frames butting onto the lowest well plank (see photo) on one side and the keel / rising wood on the other. I have to put in another CB plank pair and set the centerboard in place first so I can drill for the pivot pin. Maury
  2. A lot of time since the last post...traveling, other commitments, etc. I finished frame #15 (second to most aft), which includes mortises for the post and horn timbers that support the transom. Post timbers abut the stern post, the horn timbers are the ones further out. A John Clayton photo from Dana Story's "Building the Blackfish" provides some insight: To support the ends of the timbers, I built a jig to position them. It clamps to the square frames on the building board. Now that they are temporarily in place, I can better fashion frame #16, as the timbers rest on it. Maury
  3. And my wife thinks I'm patient...🙂 Maury
  4. I had to go over Admiralty Models' Drafting Workshop materials to understand how to use diagonals (complicated). I expanded the stations to five since three will always result in a smooth line and ran checks. The original lines are smooth. Waterlines projected to the half breadth. I then took care to determine exactly where the original station lines fell in relation to final frames and re-drew the waterlines on the half breadth. From there I projected the center of the frames back to the body plan and the variations are as expected due to the width of the frames. A whole afternoon of modifications to the plans. I'll start removing the errant frames tomorrow. Maury
  5. The four half frames at the stern are installed and I've made some serious errors along the way. They are not fair. Not even close. I went back to the original Chapelle drawing and compared the body plan with my framing plans and they do not line up. Going back over the lofting instructions from Wayne Kempson's tutorial which I followed completely, I have determined that I probably chose the incorrect spline tool in projecting my body lines and the waterlines on the half-breadth. I probably used the "spline by control points" tool rather than the "Spline by fit points" tool. The difference shows up where there are sharper curves (like near the stern). I've copied the body plans for the aft-most frames from the original plan (they correspond very closely to frames 11, 13 and 15) onto my body plan and I'm re-lofting the water lines aft of frame 9. I'll have to replace the frames from 10 or 11 aft to 15.🙁 Maury
  6. Installing Frame 12 against deadwood. The jig described earlier...frame is clamped to the Plexiglas sheet glued to machinist square aligned with plan on building board and other square lining up top of frame. Slowly proceeding. Maury
  7. While lofting and building the remaining frames at the stern, I've diverted to lining up the frames at the centerboard well. Before the frames can be properly lofted, I need to know exactly how the CB well lines up. The port side of the lowest plank of the well (where the ends of the frames seat) has been installed. The well sits at the outer edge of the rising wood and has a slot 1" wider than the thickness of the centerboard. There are rabetted logs at each end of the well that tie into the frames at the bottom and a deck beam at the top. The tops of those logs are held in place with temporary spanners rather than the final beam. I can now determine the difference from the centerline for the port-side frames. Maury
  8. If you must use filler, try Bondo (auto body filler). It comes in a squeeze tube which is easier to store and preserve. Maury
  9. One reason for pumps to be in pairs (one to each side) is that the ship is often heeling to one side or the other so the effectiveness of the pump on the leeward side is greater. Maury
  10. Back from vacation. Framing continues. Frame 10 is being held level as the glue dries. The section from Frame E to Frame 5 is where the centerboard case goes. The frames in that area require special handling. Basically the same treatment as the square frames seated in the deadwood, one side at a time. The frames on the port side butt into the centerboard case so will be sized to account for the case. Maury
  11. Meticulous modeling, ...not my forte...RIGHT!😉

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