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Maurys

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About Maurys

  • Rank
    Maury S

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Recent Builds:
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Current project Anchor Hoy 1:48 scratch

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/

    Nautical Research Guild

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

Recent Profile Visitors

659 profile views
  1. I tried adding pigment and it was never the same consistency. Basic food dyes work great. A little red and green makes dark brown. Maury
  2. Someone must clean it every day! Maury
  3. I tried to post a comment using Firefox and Internet explorer on a PC and was able to post a picture, but no comments. It works on a Mac using Chrome. I'll bet there was an upgrade to the MSW server that is causing the error. Too many people having the same problem at the same time. I'll try Firefox and Safari on the Mac. Maury
  4. I bought a MicroMark mill a few years ago, had the gearing switched for higher speed (wood vs metal) and have never been happy with it. Finally got a Sherline and couldn't be happier. Much easier to set up and plenty of support. 10% discount for "seniors". Maury
  5. Thinning and multiple coats is the secret to a beautiful finish. Read over Chuck Passaro's Cutter build. I use Model Shipways hull and Spar Black, thinned 50%. Works well for me with no streaks or brush marks. Maury
  6. I have a similar hot air unit. I've used it on box and temperatures above 225 F tend to char the wood and I've never had the wood go malleable....maybe user error. A combination of wet and dry bending is still where I am. Maury
  7. I need a 1/16" end mill. I see Drill Bit City sells carbide ones. For cutting grooves in Box or pear, do I opt for HSS or carbide ?? Any other sources? Thanks, Maury
  8. Dremel drill press

    Good to see you back. Maury
  9. Thanks for the comments. Pictures welcome. Mark, duties were primarily confined to harbors, but they ventured out from time to time and they had to be able to handle modest seas. Anchors were lost near mouths of harbors frequently as ships waited for tides to carry them in. Spyglass, I did not mention that the hoy has running backstays with no illustration of a realistic attachment. Running backstays were critical on the boats I raced a decade ago and there is very limited support for the top mast beyond a fore stay and those stays. Maury
  10. This issue has been touched upon in the Scratch Built Log https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/13002-anchor-hoy-by-maurys-pof-harbor-craft-c-1825-148/, and I thought we might get some fresh eyes and minds on the "problem". The model is based on Francis Grices' drawings from the National Archives for a boat he designed and built in the early 1800s at Norfolk. An enlarged section of one of the two drawings is shown below. The drawings, while detailed in some ways are not so in others. This leads me to think he drew them or had them drawn to illustrate just a couple of key issues with the boat. One being the support for the great cat at the bow and another the gearing connected to the two capstans (Not shown on this illustration but visible at the link above). No rigging related to the bowsprit appears. As can be seen on the picture above, the shrouds pass outside the rails but nothing is shown as to how they set up...channels, chainplates, deadeyes, etc.. There are two other sources of info. (I think one based on the other). Grimwood's American Ship Models (circa mid- 1900s) and Cairo's NRG articles circa 1970s clearly show the shrouds setting up on themselves at eyebolts in the waterway (Hence inside the upper rail). See following picture. Setting the shrouds outside the rail would require channels to hold the eyebolts or deadeyes far enough out so shrouds would not bind on the rail. None are shown. Having the tops of the shrouds around the mast only 20' above the deck to support the stresses of a large anchor mean they have a sharper angle to the deck so that supports the contention they setup inside (to the waterway). It also creates a much narrower arc through which the boom passes (limited to about 20 degrees either side of centerline). This would severely limit the ability to sail deeper than a broad reach. Druxey postulates that the two aft-most shrouds on each side set up with hooks into eyebolts so they could be removed while sailing giving more room to swing the boom. There are illustrations done by Grimwood and Cario that are clear mistakes (i.e. location of pumps), so they remain questionable sources, but I'm leaning toward their approach to the shrouds. Any input or comments would be greatly appreciated. Maury
  11. I bought mine after the NRG conference direct from Sherline and got a 10% Conference discount. THey had a "Senior Citizen" 10% discount as well but not both. Maury
  12. American Sailing Barges

    There is a great deal of info. photos, etc. on granite sloops. Very active from Maine down to NY and DC. Many are center boarders which you rarely find on this forum. I spent some time looking at the Albert Baldwin before choosing the Anchor Hoy. It was just too big a boat for me to do in 1:48 scale. Maury
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