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Maurys

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About Maurys

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    Maury S

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  • Yahoo
    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Recent Builds:
    Anchor Hoy
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Current project Centerboard Schooner C. Chase

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/

    Nautical Research Guild

    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

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  1. First plank above garboard on port side. Straight forward, spile, sand to adjust, fit, glue, clamp. Maury
  2. Spiling is the way to go. If you have to bend and want to use the microwave, soak a paper towel in water, wrap the plank and run the oven on high for a couple of minutes. Remember the size of the plank will expand and needs to stabilize for maybe a day after steaming. Otherwise you'll end up with gaps after it dries out. Maury
  3. Back to the drawing board on the planking plan. I've cut the number of strakes between wale and garboard at DF to 14 from 16. That makes the width at 9.1" at the DF frame. The butt pattern stays the same...just eliminated strakes 1 and 16. Three drop strakes (pattern 3:2) near the bow (@ Frame "I" where the foremost butts occur) yields a plank width of 6" at the bow. All those tick strips I made will be redone and the lines on the frames erased. I still have to see what I can do about fair line of the wale on the port side forward. It just doesn't look right. Maury
  4. I test-fitted a strake above the garboard and it seems way too thin at the bow. It's actually a hair less than 1/2 the width of the strake at DF. That means two or three drop strakes. Question arises...which pattern? 2:1 or 3:2. Is there a standard? Either way would reduce the number of strakes by two or three (from 16 to 14 or 13) at the bow and bring the width up to > 1/2 of the width @ DF. Comments? Maury
  5. Re. the twist, I hoped clamping and the heat gun would fix it. So far so good. Old on top, revised below. Maury
  6. Druxey, Comments Always appreciated. It does look odd. I laid out the lower band. I like David Antscherl's method using a thread with a little white glue. The bands are of uneven strakes because of where they land in relation to the frame at the stern. A few minor tweaks to get them smooth. Maury
  7. Garboard planks installed both sides. Now I have to lay out the bands for the planking.
  8. 1/32" Bass is about the thickness of card, can be sanded for small adjustments and twists like wood...and for what else will I ever use all that stuff I bought 15+ years ago.😀 M
  9. Garboard plank (Port side). The plank is interrupted by the centerboard well on the port side so there are only two pieces. A thin batten was laid and each frame carefully marked. Then the distance from the rabbet to the mark on each frame was laid out on the bass wood and a ships curve used to determine a smooth line. I like working with sacrificial wood (Bass, 1/32") rather than card to make templates. It can be sanded for a better fit and it actually twists like the final plank. First pic. is the aft portion laid out on the bass. Second is the template cut out. and the third pic. is a shot of both fore and aft templates. The "wavy pattern" of a garboard plank can be seen clearly. Using these templates, I'll cut the final pear planks. Sorry about the quality of the photos. Maury
  10. Back in the shipyard after time in the mountains for Christmas and New Years. I was going to put one decorative stripe just above the wale, so I spiled a thin strip, hand thickness-sanded to 3" (1/16") stained with India Ink and installed just above the wale. It's much cleaner this way than me trying to pain a perfect line. On to the garboard planks. Maury
  11. Druxey, Thank you again! I carefully examined the layout, reproduced it on my sheet and everything lines up nicely. Three planks on each strake, three strakes between butts on each frame and correctly staggered. It extends several frames farther both fore and aft than I had imagined and I don't think that's a problem.
  12. I ran a different Butt pattern; 3 strakes between butts on a frame 2 frames between butts on adjacent strakes. I'm not sure it matters but visually, the butts are further apart this way.
  13. I'm working on the planking butt plan in a spreadsheet (trial and error). My rules became: 16 planks between Wale and garboard (just under 10" each) approx. 20' planks (3 per strake) 3 frames between butts on adjacent planks 2 planks between butts on each frame The wale is done in two planks Garboard is constrained on the port side by the centerboard well between Fr. D and Fr. 5. and the port side will not be fully planked Two strakes (3 & 15) will be either two or 4 pieces It looks OK to me and if I've messed up here, please let me know. Maury CC_PlankButts.pdf
  14. Fore portions of the wales are installed. The top of the wale lines up with the top of interior deck beams (bottom of deck planking). Maury

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