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HSM

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    http://www.historicshipmodel.com

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    Canada

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  1. I made a model (Corel's Half-Moon) for a gentleman who lives in Stony Point NY. He is a HUGE model ship fan, but he doesn't currently posses the skills to make them himself, despite several attempts. Is there a club or show or anything around that area he might be able to attend to meet some other local builders? I didn't see anything near him on the NRG page. Thanks for any suggestions I can send his way!
  2. Thanks for the suggestion John! I have had 15 great years out of my corded Dremel, and wasn't even thinking of replacing it until I read your review, and then other reviews online. I have been leery of battery operated tools in the past, but for smaller jobs (probably 80% of them) this will be great! I will keep my old, powerful corded Dremel and I'm sure the two will complement each other well. Will stop at Home Depot on my way home and pick one up :-)
  3. The plates stick like white on rice, but they do adhere better to a glossy surface than they do to a flat one. They are also very thin so they don't hide imperfections in the hull surface.
  4. Military modellers have literally THOUSANDS of figures available at a scale of 1:35 and I am sure you will be able to find figures posed and dressed exactly as you like. I just ordered figure sets from HobbyInc for figures I required for a diorama to copy a famous photograph of a meeting between King Aziz of Egypt, FDR, Admiral Nimits and an interpreter that took place on the cruiser Quincy. In my case I had to find clothing and poses that matched the photograph and was able to match each figure pretty accurately. The military figure kits come with the body parts all separated so you can mix and match if you don't like the arm position of this figure you can take one from another figure.
  5. I use this Micro-Mark X-Y table that I can attach to my drill-press when I need it. Works great for small jobs. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-X-Y-Table-Attachment
  6. I generally put the line through the pin-hole, then around and through again, then I put the pin in the hole to hold it in place. Once I have adjusted all (or most) of the rigging I glue down all of the pins and clip off the excess line. I then add rope coils of appropriate sized line that I make off of the model. You are right... If they yard is down then you would have less of a coil than you would if the yard is hoisted and there would be lots of line to coil.
  7. HSM

    Seen any strange signs lately?

    Seen on a camping trip through South Dakota.
  8. I am working on the Euromodel Friedrich WIlhelm zu Pferde (strange... spellchecker doesn't like that name!) and am wondering about the shroud run on the mizzen mast. The deadeyes for the fore and main mast have wood spacers (channels) that hold them away from the hull and there is room for the rigged shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The deadeyes on the mizzen mast are attached without the spacer to hold them away from the hull, and there appears to be no way to get the shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The shrouds are forced to bend around the hull and I am certain that would never happen in real life. The shrouds would chafe badly and the railing on the poopdeck would be excessively stressed. My model will be built admiralty style without masts or rigging so I will likely install the deadeyes as shown on the plans, but what am I missing here? Attached are some photos that show the area:
  9. I think all belaying pins are removable. If the lines need to be freed quickly a sailor can just pull the pin out and let out the line. If it were me I would end up with a tangled mess and swinging from my ankle from the yardarm but I'm sure a sailor would be able to keep it under control quite well.
  10. HSM

    ? for experienced riggers

    Someone mentioned moving the lift blocks from the main mast to the topmast so they are more forward. I have done similar even if the plans show the blocks on the aft section of the masthead. Plans are a good starting point, but if there is a more practical and functional way to do it I'm sure the sailors of the day would have made a similar modification in real-life.
  11. I use copper tape at work for electronics and at home for ship building. Stained glass suppliers are your best bet. If you have a local shop I would bet they have 1/8", but be aware they come with different colors of adhesive on the back. I think it comes in black, silver and clear. You want clear for hull plating.
  12. HSM

    Workshop Advice

    Looks great! Now get in there and make it messy!
  13. HSM

    Which pre-built ship to buy?

    I have to agree with ccoyl. They are both awful, but the second one slightly less awful than the first. It comes down to you get what you pay for, and $300.00 doesn't buy much. The Bluejacket USS Constitution KIT alone is $650.00. My guess is those models might be OK for a high shelf along the ceiling in a cheap seafood restaurant, but for a centerpiece of a room it wouldn't be very satisfying.
  14. I have always used CA to secure rigging knots. It darkens light-colored lines so I have an anti-fray product for fabric that I use on light-colored lines, but I would prefer to use the CA. The first ship I built was in 1999 and I had it out of its case a few weeks ago to steal the pedestals for another project. I specifically checked the knots and the lines seemed as strong as when I first made it. This is just my experience, but everyone may do what suits them.
  15. I've been building wood ship models for decades, and if I were to only have one power tool it would be a dremel like the one you have. With that and a few hand tools you can build most kits on the market to a decent standard. I'd say start building and then buy as you observe a need for more tools.

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