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  1. vossiewulf

    Fokker DR 1 Building log

    The way to avoid that problem is to build the wings and tails over the plans, that is what I have always done. Tape plans or a copy of them to your building board taut and flat, repeat with some plastic wrap over top to prevent any problems with glue sticking to plans, pin or clamp spars in the correct place and off you go. No way to have a problem unless the plans themselves are wrong. Andrew, I recommend you contact Model Expo, they have a free replacement for broken/missing parts policy. I cannot see any reasonable way to fix what you have or use it in the finished model as is - explain to them what happened and see if you can get replacement parts for the wooden parts of the top wing.
  2. Thanks Rob I've been thinking about selling a range of tools for modelers that are a considerable step up from hobby shop tools, just don't know where the time is supposed to come from. I'd have to find someone who can totally manufacture what I want to my standards, no way with the job I have to do another job on top.
  3. First I found a watchmaker's screw driver sharpener that was just the right size for the straight chisels, so I can sharpen those easily. Otherwise I am using waterstone slips, although I'm thinking of using sanding film stuck to a brass backing. In the long run I'm making myself a brass jig with wheels that can handle all of them, including the gouges where you have to turn the tool as you move forward and back. I've designed it and drawn it out and have the brass and other bits I need, just haven't sat down to do it yet.
  4. There should be special "Victory Builder" license plates for people who complete quality Victories, and this is definitely one of them. Congratulations!
  5. vossiewulf

    Fokker DR 1 Building log

    And BTW, very active forum just for WWI aircraft modelers.
  6. vossiewulf

    Fokker DR 1 Building log

    You guys should check this out, 1/32 meant to work with the Wingnut Wings kit(s)? WNW have most of the D.VII versions out already and at least in the fuselage there were definite differences, not sure what version(s) it's meant to work with.
  7. vossiewulf

    What have you received today?

    My understanding is that his charts stand up extremely well to modern GPS, if nothing else he was a hell of a surveyor.
  8. vossiewulf

    MONTAÑES by montanes

    Some thoughts on potential responses: That's like being told that behind Darth Vader is the Emperor, so weep even further for your pitiable ship-building skills It seems like I will need to kick Spain in the shin for being an entire country of better ship-builders than me I don't want to see Baldomero's models, I'm afraid I would be driven mad, mad I tell you, by the endlessly repeating "HOW DID HE DO THAT?!?" question spinning through my mind
  9. Danny is part of the goal to only use the kit materials? Because I've never built anything out of the box, I always replace things, usually many things. I ask as that if I was doing that particular kit I probably would have done the bows with a couple pieces of balsa with some 1/64" plywood over it, and then just paint the whole hull. Which wouldn't be a bad thing, I'm impressed with the engineering of the kit but not how they're printing the colors.
  10. vossiewulf

    Sandpaper. Use. It.

    Not sure what you guys are talking about, sanding sealer is just a standard clear lacquer/varnish/poly with a high percentage of solids. As such, once applied, the strength of any glue bond you get is (depending on finish thickness) mostly or entirely limited to the strength of the finish's adherence to the wood, which is always going to be MUCH less than that of glue bonding with wood. In some cases with thin CA and a light coat of sealer you'll still get a semi-strong bond as the glue sinks into still-open grain and that creates a mechanical hold, but it's still not going to be as strong as it should be bonding with plain wood. I almost never do that, I will remove any finish including sanding sealer from a surface before gluing. Anyone who wants to really understand what all these finishes really are and the basic chemistry of how they work should read Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish, it's about the most advanced finishing book I've found in terms of explaining all the source materials of finishes and how/why they work the way they do. You'll learn that much of what you think you know is wrong and that much of what manufacturers say about their finishes is complete nonsense, but other info on the can that you're not really paying attention to now is very important and will tell you exactly how that finish will behave. It's from American Woodworker which I normally don't associate with highly technical woodworking (like Fine Woodworking) but this really is the best book I've found, and I probably have 15 or 20 books on different types of finishing.
  11. vossiewulf

    macro photography

    This is just my 4 year old Samsung S4 phone camera with no special lens. Decent phone cameras work just fine for these purposes, only requirement is lots and lots of light- they all seem to perform much better under very bright lighting conditions, including a reduction in noise. That's the only caveat really, they take noisy photos. But if that concerns you, Photoshop + one of several specialist noise-reduction filters and it's all gone. Take this one to full size and check out the detail in the amboyna burl.
  12. vossiewulf

    Fokker DR 1 Building log

    Plastic small scale: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/forum/59-aircraft-modeling-forums/ http://cs.finescale.com/f/ RC aircraft: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-airplanes-226/
  13. The only caveat about these tools if you need to know how to sharpen tools pretty well, they're not easy to sharpen while keeping the bevels flat, especially the very tiny spoon gouges.
  14. I sent adrian contact info BTW in case no one else did.
  15. My first wife was Polish, her parents are immigrants who settled in Torrington CT, when I visited there entire sections of the town were Polish. I liked that there was a bar on the corner of about every block, right in the middle of the housing neighborhoods, so no one has to drive Arriving at their house was a caricature with like 42 pounds of hot food ready to eat with her mother saying eat! Eat more! Try this! over and over, it's amazing how many pirogi you can eat when the Polish lady who made them is staring at you Another thing I like is that although they haven't had exactly the best experiences in wars, they contribute hugely to the field of military history, completely out of scale of their population. I don't understand that but am extremely appreciative and there are many books by Polish authors and publishers around this house.

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