vossiewulf

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About vossiewulf

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  1. Joel, aren't those values again either guidelines or minimums? Just take a look at all the British 74s, go to ThreeDecks' search page and tell it to bring up all Great Britain ships that are Third Rate and 74 nominal guns then look at the ships and their gundeck lengths. All of them have 14 ports a side. I can't remember where but I remember reading a designer saying he was pleased he'd gotten an extra two inches between ports, that it doesn't sound like much but made a measurable difference in ease of working the guns.
  2. Ditto. These are Battletech mechs from a game project I was working on last year. First two are high poly but bottom one is low poly + normal map (and AO and curvature and ID etc.) and not the final version, you can see where I forgot to taper the missile launcher tubes so Substance Painter's normal map baker got confused.
  3. Ok, just checking that you're thinking it through and you are, so you'll be fine. Not sure if they have a close integration now with Blender, but substance painter does have an excellent material export for Max with substance material types being native in Max now.
  4. The gunport spacing has to be a general rule. Since frigate and ship designs of the same number of guns had gundeck lengths that varied by a foot or two from each other during any given time period, it can't be a hard rule as those differences are not going to be divisible by the size of the shot and the number of gunport spacings.
  5. The thing that surprised me is making treenails actual objects. I hope your machine has lots of memory For the sake of rendering times you might want to think about the parts you can do with normal maps and your textures instead of building memory-intensive geometry. I know lots of people who use Blender and do very good work with it. I am MAX but that's because I have been using it since it was 3DSr4 for DOS in 1994, no way going to learn wildly different workflows at this point. At one point I had a free licensed copy of Lightwave 7 or something, but I gave up after a week, what a completely messed up program that was. The preferred modeling method was typing numbers everywhere. I assume you are texturing right, not going to keep just the generic wood textures? If so, what are you going to do to unwrap UVWs? There are only a couple tools I know of that can reasonably handle something this complex, otherwise you'll need to break it into lots of separate objects. I use Flatiron for complex UVW unwrapping, but it's a bit expensive and not sure if it supports Blender. If you can, and haven't already, look at the Substance Designer/Painter combo, there isn't much you can't do and it's quite easy to do amazingly cool things. One of them is like $150, the combo was $250 last time I looked and you could get it on Steam. Regardless, it looks good already and you're thinking about the right things, so I'm sure it's going to be a very nice and accurate model.
  6. Give me a couple days to play with them, I just had a few minutes to experiment with them this evening and I may rate the medium more like 220. But regardless I think these are going to be really handy for making various sanding/filing tools, I'm going to mount them on some brass pieces and also some spring steel pieces but you could use wood in most cases. Also, this brand is definitely diamond But a bit more expensive at $12 for 5 pieces. But still used on wood they should last almost forever so I think either the Horico ones or these are going to be good purchases.
  7. Good point, hadn't thought of that use. As I mentioned, not really sure, but I would start with the fine grit. The medium that I tried last night was maybe 100 grit(?) and I assume the coarse is going to be more for reshaping than sanding.
  8. $19.45 delivered for 12 diamond-coated stainless steel strips, and they seem to be made well and should last quite a long time. I'm disappointed they're only on .007" steel, I was hoping for a bit stiffer. But if nothing else you can make lots of really useful semi-files out of these and that's what I intend to do. I might pick up some of the wider 6mm strips also. BTW all manufacturers seem to sell coarse/med/fine grit but no indication of how that maps to normal diamond sharpening stones and the like.
  9. Also, I've been taking design loads into account, or at least I think I have. One reason I want to seriously protect the Moria forceps is they're titanium and should handle anything non-insanely stupid I could throw at them. My other go-to tool is the Storz Barraquer needle holder, it seems to be full hard duralumin or 2024 or some other specialized aluminum alloy, they're really quite strong but they'll also never be used to bend hardened steel wire either. Where I worry is the little McPhersons that are semi-hardened stainless, those will be light duty only.
  10. Thanks Toni. I thought it was clear that easier and lower cost wasn't the point there, I have flexible clear plastic tubing in several sizes on its way via Amazon that I'll use for somewhat simpler protectors for some of the others, although the straight ones are already taken care of via wine corks. The corks fit down in wells in a clear acrylic holder from the Container Store that I bought just for the purpose. I have numerous small detail knives also that need to be accessible and protected and (supported) wine corks as as good as anything for those knives and straight tweezers/forceps. It's the McPherson/Barraquer angled/curved tiny little forceps that are the problem, they'll get clear plastic tubing and probably non-active storage in drawers.
  11. I found you can get these polishing/separator strips on Amazon. The stainless steel ones appear to be spring steel coated with diamond so very promising, I ordered some yesterday. The mylar ones look good also and I ordered some of them, but they're more or less flexi-i-file pieces so they might be just a better replacement for those.
  12. The issue with making them into anything that will be heavily stressed is the metal is excessively hard for those applications and therefore too brittle in general, doesn't need teeth scores to be a problem. If you do make anything out of them you need to take that into account.
  13. I sent a PM to Grant Druxey, so no need.
  14. So yes, I decided I needed a good protector for those forceps, and I decided to have fun with it and also demo a look I intend to use on my Lady Nelson. Goals were to make something that 1) protected them from falls, 2) protected them from something falling on them, and 3) would hold the forceps in place while in the holder/protector. First step was some highly um... precise... kinda... cutting of cork. Does anyone know how to cut cork in a non-ragged way short of a scroll saw? The forceps I'm making a protector for are in the background. Here we are with port and starboard bulkheads installed, you should be able to see how it works- pinch forceps together, drop them in central slot, let go of them and they expand into close-fitting grooves on each side and are both protected and retained in that position. After adding the forward bulkhead, I moved on to planking the deck, also with holly. And I am using my spiffy Barraquer needle holder to install the carbon-fiber faux ebony treenails. You can see the forceps are testing out their new home. As I said, they're retained in this, I'm just holding the holder and the forceps are hanging from that. As you see I also added real ebony runners as this is intended to live on my bench and slide around. Sanded, coats of finish, more sanding, a little wax. I think the goals were achieved, I could probably drop my engraver's block on this thing and the forceps would still be safe. Although it's designed to be on the workbench, it'll only be there when these forceps are needed. Also I like the carbon fiber treenails + holly deck planking look, I wanted to test it for my LN. But I still need to think about it and whether the high contrast might be distracting across a full deck.
  15. And you want these or these. At least buy one and see whether you think how much better it works from the start and how much longer it lasts than cheaper files make them a lot less expensive than they seem.