vossiewulf

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About vossiewulf

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    San Mateo CA
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    Everything. Mostly.

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  1. The way to avoid that problem is to build the wings and tails over the plans, that is what I have always done. Tape plans or a copy of them to your building board taut and flat, repeat with some plastic wrap over top to prevent any problems with glue sticking to plans, pin or clamp spars in the correct place and off you go. No way to have a problem unless the plans themselves are wrong. Andrew, I recommend you contact Model Expo, they have a free replacement for broken/missing parts policy. I cannot see any reasonable way to fix what you have or use it in the finished model as is - explain to them what happened and see if you can get replacement parts for the wooden parts of the top wing.
  2. First I found a watchmaker's screw driver sharpener that was just the right size for the straight chisels, so I can sharpen those easily. Otherwise I am using waterstone slips, although I'm thinking of using sanding film stuck to a brass backing. In the long run I'm making myself a brass jig with wheels that can handle all of them, including the gouges where you have to turn the tool as you move forward and back. I've designed it and drawn it out and have the brass and other bits I need, just haven't sat down to do it yet.
  3. And BTW, very active forum just for WWI aircraft modelers.
  4. You guys should check this out, 1/32 meant to work with the Wingnut Wings kit(s)? WNW have most of the D.VII versions out already and at least in the fuselage there were definite differences, not sure what version(s) it's meant to work with.
  5. My understanding is that his charts stand up extremely well to modern GPS, if nothing else he was a hell of a surveyor.
  6. Not sure what you guys are talking about, sanding sealer is just a standard clear lacquer/varnish/poly with a high percentage of solids. As such, once applied, the strength of any glue bond you get is (depending on finish thickness) mostly or entirely limited to the strength of the finish's adherence to the wood, which is always going to be MUCH less than that of glue bonding with wood. In some cases with thin CA and a light coat of sealer you'll still get a semi-strong bond as the glue sinks into still-open grain and that creates a mechanical hold, but it's still not going to be as strong as it should be bonding with plain wood. I almost never do that, I will remove any finish including sanding sealer from a surface before gluing. Anyone who wants to really understand what all these finishes really are and the basic chemistry of how they work should read Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish, it's about the most advanced finishing book I've found in terms of explaining all the source materials of finishes and how/why they work the way they do. You'll learn that much of what you think you know is wrong and that much of what manufacturers say about their finishes is complete nonsense, but other info on the can that you're not really paying attention to now is very important and will tell you exactly how that finish will behave. It's from American Woodworker which I normally don't associate with highly technical woodworking (like Fine Woodworking) but this really is the best book I've found, and I probably have 15 or 20 books on different types of finishing.
  7. This is just my 4 year old Samsung S4 phone camera with no special lens. Decent phone cameras work just fine for these purposes, only requirement is lots and lots of light- they all seem to perform much better under very bright lighting conditions, including a reduction in noise. That's the only caveat really, they take noisy photos. But if that concerns you, Photoshop + one of several specialist noise-reduction filters and it's all gone. Take this one to full size and check out the detail in the amboyna burl.
  8. Plastic small scale: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/forum/59-aircraft-modeling-forums/ http://cs.finescale.com/f/ RC aircraft: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-airplanes-226/
  9. The only caveat about these tools if you need to know how to sharpen tools pretty well, they're not easy to sharpen while keeping the bevels flat, especially the very tiny spoon gouges.
  10. I sent adrian contact info BTW in case no one else did.
  11. BTW the sponge eye makeup brushes worked extremely well for India ink. And in fact since they leave no brush marks at all, I'm going to try using them for non-precision hand-painting, looks to me like they will leave very flat coats in about any brushable liquid paint/dye.
  12. No way to tell what it is with that small image. But short version is if it has some lighter creamy streaks and feels like cutting sandstone with an edge tool, it's probably real ebony. If not, it's just one of many species that can be "ebonized" or dyed black, but I've never been certain what they use. But it goes all the way through solid black everywhere so I assume real dye and soaked in said dye for a long time.
  13. Make sure you check out Uschi's metal powder offerings, those kits are perfect applications for them. They are actually quite easy to use and can produce metal finishes that are exceptionally realistic. This one shows off some of his leather decals and wood paints/decals. Note both of these show a Mercedes D.IIIa/au engine as used by the Albatrosen and early Fokker D.VIIs And here's a guy doing a terrible job of using them on your 80hp Le Rhone kit, rough sanded with no undercoat and it still looks pretty good. The only downside is metal finishes like this are the least forgiving in existence, and in fact if you had a need to find every single scratch on a surface down to near atomic levels, rub some metal powder on and you can see them pretty easily. It's not quite that bad of course but you get the point, best results will be to use the same undercoats he recommends on a surface that's been sanded/polished to the highest grit you can stand. Novus Plastic Polish works very well here, you sand to maybe 1200/1500 and the #2 fine scratch remover will take out all of those scratches and leave you with a glass finish and can be done by hand but felt points of various shapes for your rotary tool can help speed up things considerably. This is a glider I made painted Tamiya flat black and rubbed over with one of the powders. Tragically, being made of balsa, it moved way too much and the finish got all wrinkled a few months later. So not recommended over wood.
  14. Just make sure you have some of the thin sanding film that can be creased really sharply, best thing I've found for hitting both sides of the eleventy thousand cooling fin seams to make them as invisible as possible. The fit should be good but if you get lots of squeezeout or empty seams... think of an old salt squinting and shaking his pipe at you while saying "give up on perfection now boy, for that way lies death. Death... and MADNESS!"
  15. Thanks CDW! Hopefully people see that nothing I did should be beyond a decently-equipped shipbuilder's workshop, at least to create a basic knife - the brass balance pieces I make for my knives are in no way required, so no need for a lathe for someone to make a knife for themselves. The wood part everyone here should be able to make easily, and the finish is just thin CA glue that we all have on our benches. That was the purpose of documenting making making those, to show people that if you have a bench grinder and standard ship modeler tools and equipment, you can do it too and in most cases make something much better than you can buy for maybe $10-$20 in materials. I know I can make a pretty knife if I want to, I don't need a bunch of pics to remind me