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  1. I am confused about the deck planking. I though nibbed plank ends were only on the bow, while on the stern the planks tapered as long as they didn't taper to less than half their widest width. However I have a drawing of nibbed plank ends showing it done on both bow and stern of what looks like a cutter, with the planks running dead straight and no taper. Can someone explain what is correct?
  2. I used the polycrylic on my LN, and just found it doesn't adhere well to anything- I had to mask off the ship to spray the bulwarks and it came off in many places with the tape, even over bare wood. Hopefully you have better luck.
  3. Work crises interrupted the shipyard for a couple days, but I did get the margin planks finished last night. Picking up where we left off, I had the outer curve on the bow margin plank. To get the inside curve, I used my digital calipers as a marking gauge again, something I do regularly- in this case set it to 6mm, lock it, and run one jaw along the outer curve while the other scribes a fine line. I then run a pencil down said line to make it easy to see, and a few light passes with a knife and we're done with just a few seconds of sanding the inside edge required. This is where we enter a good lesson on how not to think your way through a process. On the first side, I started by gluing the stern piece in first, but as I later realized this was the wrong end to start with. By doing it this way I ended up with no "out" on the final joint between the middle plank and the bow plank- the far end of the bow plank was already done so I had to mark the last joint and cut to those markings with no second chance. Here are the three port planks dry fit and glued- I got ok close with the final joint but not better than that, which didn't make me happy. So for the starboard side, I started on the bow end and that was better, but unfortunately I had faced the scarf joints in the direction that made sense starting from the stern, and I couldn't reverse them since the port side was already done. The problem was that the joints faced the waterway, rather than facing the center of the deck- so for the starboard side I had multiple tries, but dry fitting and especially gluing were made much more tricky by having to fit the new piece in between the waterway and the previous piece. If I'd thought this out right, I would have started at the stern and reversed the direction of the scarf joints, that would have made this process MUCH easier. Done now. And as noted, the joints are ok but not nearly as precise as I would like. The first one was perfect: But the rest weren't so perfect due to my poor planning. Now I'm trying to think my way through the rest of the deck planking. Hopefully I will do a better job of that than I did here.
  4. vossiewulf

    HMS Victory - Deagostini

    I also see several stalled Deagostini Victory builds here, so if you run out of luck on Ebay, find those build logs here by searching for Deagostini Victory and limiting it to returning topics. You can then private message those people and see if they're interested in selling. Also if you supply a list of missing parts, there are likely other solutions - wood is just wood and can be bought from Crown Timberyard made just for ship modelers, Syren Model Ship Company and others supply blocks and line and guns in various sizes (usually better quality than kit parts), so don't let your dad get down - all can be replaced somehow.
  5. Bob is disgustingly good at rigging, I realized that with his Granado which was before the Prince and the Essex. He makes it look very easy and straightforward, like he throws a pile of line at the ship and they all magically orient themselves and suddenly the standing rigging is done. I figure I'll ship my Lady Nelson to him because he could do in four days what would take me 6 weeks to figure out, and his version would be better.
  6. vossiewulf

    HMS Victory - Deagostini

    Looks like Ebay has the Deagostini Victory in individual "partwork" issues, each with the parts required for a part of the model. I think your solution is finding what issues the missing parts were in, and looking on Ebay for replacements just for those issues. Search here.
  7. The standard Evolution handpieces have a lever lock, but the 90 degree attachment does not. It uses a collet key thing which is the only drawback to the tool I'm aware of, it's slow changing burs but I have a second Evolution handpiece that I use for burs, so this one at least for now stays in this configuration as I use the sander constantly. I shop at Artco Tools because they're a professional supply shop for die sinkers and patternmakers and engine guys who do porting and they have everything to do with rotary tools. If you already have a micromotor and a 90 degree attachment, all you need are the disk sander mandrels and the PSA sandpaper circles. You can find the mandrels here and the sanding disks here. Artco also makes their own sanding disks that last longer than the NSK ones that can be found here. They don't quite fit the NSK mandrel sizes, but not enough to be problematic. I suggest you poke around their store, they have lots of things interesting to ship modelers. Another one you should have in your arsenal if you don't already is rubberized abrasives in at least 1/8" size so you can chuck them in the micromotor. Think pencil erasers with abrasive grit embedded in them, they're extremely useful for removing metal and polishing metal pieces, they're used very commonly by jewelers polishing jewelry after it comes out of the mold. Since they're like pencil erasers, you can also shape them pretty easily, I just run them against a piece of sandpaper. Otto Frei has a pretty big selection also. When using my mini disk sander, I brace my elbows either on my knees or the benchtop with the handpiece in my right hand and the work piece in my left. I then brace the heels of my hands together, leaving only the fingers holding the work piece moving, and I look at the disk from the side with it slightly off-axis from my eyes for obvious reasons. When braced this way, it's amazing how much fine control you have and it does feel like you could just strip a few molecules if you wanted to. Every one of the hull plank ends that all turned out near perfect were done this way, and it really isn't all that difficult.
  8. Get some files, and you're going to need wood carving gouges to thin out the gunwales, generally that is done by cutting straight down with a shallow-curve gouge. Same gouges would be helpful carving down the hull also. If you want to be successful you'll need to invest in at least some of the tools you see people using here- ship modeling can be accessible or it can be extremely difficult depending on what tools you have.
  9. You should also read the build log of an active Sultana build:
  10. What tools are you using? Some aggressive files or rasps are good for removing most of the waste. You should also check out the new build log from Mr. Bluejacket himself of Red Jacket. He just started a few days ago and is busy carving down a much bigger hull than you have, and it would be a very good idea to ask him the exact process he follows while doing so.
  11. Some progress on the margin planks. First, guess how wide the margin planks are. While I'm at it, I know it's quite expensive but the NSK Evolution micromotor with the 90 degree attachment is something you really want if you build ships- it's a handheld disk sander and you can chew through half an inch of endgrain wood on a plank or remove a few molecules to refine a fit. It lets you set two angles at once and the output is a perfectly straight edge. It's pretty much the perfect tool for fitting the ends of planks on ships, so if you can somehow get it on a Christmas list, do so. It will speed your work considerably. It makes getting a fit like this a lot easier than it looks. I decided on a 6mm margin plank as that leaves me exactly 36mm on each side, so I can make my planks 4mm-4.01mm with 9 a side. It might have been 5mm but I really didn't want to make 4.138932mm planks. Also decided on three planks for the margin with scarf joints. I blackened the edge with a 4B solid-graphite pencil. Test fitting the first scarf. The middle plank. I see no way to bend these planks for the bow so I'm spiling the bow plank. I started with a paper template. And transferred that to a piece of holly, some disk sander work and hand sanding, we have a pretty good fit. I knocked off there, tomorrow I scribe the other edge and cut the scarf and then move to the other side.
  12. Good luck Andrea, you're in the right place to ask questions, there is tremendous knowledge in this community. As for your stern, I assume you need to work the hull down until your template fits. That will mean removing some material from the sternpost area.
  13. Of course I would have, it should have the proper planking. But that wasn't going to stop me from looking for scapegoats when something went wrong! I put five holes in the stem, I think the first thing you told me a year and a half ago was that the stem needed five holes and that meant a five-hole deadeye and for some reason I haven't fathomed yet, you think making the deadeye is going to be super tricky. Generally small is not a problem for me. I remember making a 1/48 Albatros D.III, about six inches long, and I rigged it so the control column actually worked and moved the control surfaces. And then there were the 1/32 cockpits with every knob and switch and indicator light. I can't see that well anymore without help, but I have lots of experience with small and fiddly. In fact I'm very likely here to build some 1/200-1/600 ships, and if I scratchbuild a ship it's also likely to be small. I may get one of those engraver's microscopes with the 10" working distance to facilitate that work if I do go that direction.

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