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vossiewulf

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Everything posted by vossiewulf

  1. All shoddiness of any kind on my models will now be labeled as highly-skilled efforts at increased realism.
  2. Has anyone tried clamping with rare earth magnets? These are 1/4" diameter X 1/10" thick, get about 2lb pull, not sure if that's enough but if it is, they'd be perfect for things like inside gunwale/bulwark planking.
  3. LOL. I took it out and it looked exactly like a blue turd. So I tried some de-turdifying squishes before taking the pic, not noticing that I'd actually made it worse
  4. Tom, important thing is it sounds like you're making good progress. Last time I checked none of us paid for tickets that said you owed us pictures You'll get to putting them up when you can.
  5. Hey Rick, good to see you back But also hope you had a good time on your trip and all went well. I'm semi-down having another run-in with kidney stones, something I have all too much experience with, they started when I was 30. Was all I could do most of this week to spend some time with my teams at work and make sure they were mostly on track. A team in Bangalore has been added to my group as well which also means daily calls for the next few weeks of some length to talk to the local management team to get a grasp of their tempo and needs and get them integrated into my group. It doesn't help that the nature of what we do means that every single person is moving as fast as humanly possible every day so staying ahead of the curve is a challenge. And I was already on call 24/7, but now with Bangalore I'm double extra on call. Easiest way to explain what we do is to say we're payment system first responders. Something significant goes wrong with the payment systems driving large parts of the world's e-commerce system, we get called. We also do root cause analysis and fixes on all non-crisis production issues and do lots of reporting and analytics for business and sales and senior leadership. Haven't gotten anything done last couple days. Hopefully will be doing a bit better this weekend and make some progress.
  6. Gaetan, one thing that always seems to happen to me in situations where I'm manufacturing a series of parts, and this was particularly true back in my custom furniture making days, was that just about the time I was becoming really efficient at a macro-process like you're describing above (X number of operations on Y pieces), I'd be done. The last five pieces would always be noticeably better and more quickly done than the first five, and had I another X pieces to do they'd get done way faster than that first batch. But I'd be done, and it was always a bit frustrating because now I knew how to do that particular thing really well, but I'd never need to do it again exactly like that.
  7. Another one I should have remembered, anyone who prefers PVA should try this. First, it's high quality PVA designed to hold together guitars that live under pretty significant stresses for decades. But that's not the super spiffy part, this also has an invisible dye that becomes visible under black/UV lighting. Guitar makers can't afford a single spot of glue anywhere, and someone at some point had this great idea and it's in common use by luthiers now. All you need is a UV light handy, and you'll never have a stained finish ruined by a spot of glue you couldn't see. I've never tested, but it's supposed to be fully repairable with joints separating at 190 degrees. LMI PVA Instrument Glue
  8. Bolded one very good point (well they all are but this one is possibly a blocker). I try extremely hard to not have glue on my surfaces anywhere but that doesn't mean I'm 100% successful. And I'm guessing it would bead and I'm not sure it wouldn't also bead if I put down a clear flat coat or something. I'll have to go experiment. I've always liked india black so yes that was another potential reason. If you go through my build log you'll see I've tested with dyes and my current plan is to use aniline dyes to take the boxwood to black, and I'm using dyes for the same reason I'm testing ink, it doesn't completely hide the wood. But the black dyes I have tested all seem to have a pretty red hue, enough to be noticeable and a more pure black would be better. Anyway, thanks Joel, will post back here with what I find.
  9. Quotes from that page: " Unlike typical carvel vessels, the planking is tightly fitted, with the seams of each plank moulded to fit the adjoining plank..." "The set work is unique on a carvel vessel of this type, with similar only seen on a shell first barges in Europe (Goodburn, 2009)..." "The flat vertical scarfs on the outer planking are also unique to frame first construction. They appear in the place of butt joints..." Citing a unique vessel is not a good example to use. From another thread a couple down from here also about planking lengths, Chuck posted the real planking expansion for his Cheerful cutter:
  10. Good timing, was just about to give a little mini-update, which is I'm in blukhead strips and marking plank ticks etc. and will start actual planking soon, and will be head down for a while so you can holiday yourself and not worry I am once again experimenting and trying multiple things and doing things over, so it's a slow phase again. This time I am using Frog low-tack tape to measure lengths of stations since it is somewhat flexible and sticks but it doesn't stretch. And then I'm doing the actual tick marks with my proportional dividers. I'm then drawing planking lines for some planks by laying pinstriping tape down along the tick marks. And to ensure I have no excuses, I'm drawing those lines after sharpening a .3mm lead The tape along the keel shows what the garboard will do, similar to what I did for first planking. It will curve away from the keel and terminate in the rudder post two planking widths above the keel. That will leave a nice simple shape for the stealers that have to go someplace. One thing that was hard, and I'm still not sure they are perfect, was drawing in these stations and getting them square with the keel. Are there any tricks to this other than create frame templates fit well enough you could use them as rulers? I have no issues drawing straight lines here, the problem is figuring out which direction those straight lines should be pointing.
  11. Anyone tried this? In my continued experimentation with about every step of my first ship I've been working through various options for paint; it's easy enough for me to do a perfectly level painted surface in most cases, but that would be extremely inaccurate, I'm looking for something more organic, allowing the character of the wood to show but at correct scale- grain bumps/grooves that scale out to two and three inches high/deep are just as bad as a perfectly smooth finish. I remembered I have a nice set of india inks that promise to be lightfast and waterproof, and I also know from previous experience that it can be applied as glaze coats and have a bit more translucency than paint, so I decided to try the red (which is pretty close to most versions of RN bulkhead red) on a piece of boxwood, which is what the inner gunwales of my little cutter are planked with. This is the plank sanded cleanly with 400 grit and then given one "coat" of ink, which is really about three passes with thin glaze coats, waiting about 30 seconds between. The color is good but the grain has been raised considerably. This is after three "coats" (~ 9 glaze coat passes) with sanding between, first with 1200 that took it almost to bare wood again and second time with 2000 that was as much leveling as possible without removing significant color. Diffuse color. Harder to see here than in real life, but it has visibly more translucency than paints (that have effectively 0) while still having nice color saturation. I like the effect overall. And here's what the surface looks like. I also like this scale-wise, mine being 1:64- this seems pretty close to me for that scale. So, pros: Perfect consistency for brush painting Goes on with zero brush marks as glaze coats, looks like 2-3 would be = to typical brush painted coat Can be semi-transluscent allowing some of the wood to show. Translucency can be controlled between somewhat translucent to 0 translucent with complete color saturation Coats can be sanded < 5 minutes after final glaze coat. No kidding, dries fast. Use a hairdryer on low and you could run through the whole three coats and two sandings continuously with no significant waiting Seems reasonably tough, more so than I thought it would be and certainly more than Tamiya paints. A little piece of dust got in a coat and dried before I saw it, and it took a surprising amount of effort and resorting to putting on magnifiers to dig that little bastard out of the finish. But the scene of the crime disappeared completely with the next sanding and coats. Cons: ? Any experience/thoughts appreciated.
  12. Since when are all hull plank joints scarfed? That's not the case, only drop planks and stealers were scarfed as far as I know, rest were butt joints always over frames.
  13. Great, looking forward to more pics. No such thing as too many pics of Fokker aircraft. Well at least the E series and the F.1/Dr.I and the D.VII, in between were some really horrible aircraft before they moved to the thick airfoil section.
  14. Thanks for the explanation Gaetan, reason I asked is as mentioned it seemed really obviously useful once I thought about it. I like especially how you managed to keep pretty large pieces of equipment mobile without losing much stability, it looks like you only had to raise the base less than 10cm, like 6 or 7? In your copious free time if you put together plans you could probably sell a few here and to the guys who do big (1:4, 1:3) aircraft.
  15. What is that table Gaetan? Almost looks like a chiropractor table or something, designed to raise and lower. I guess that would be extremely useful when building as big as you do.
  16. Ok this is what I have now. It looks correct to me and I think it pretty closely compares with Chuck's Cheerful. The planks on the top of this break would need to drop to close to half their width and that suggests one drop plank, and that is what he has on Cheerful. '' Cheerful, best side view I can find.
  17. LOL Rick I appreciate it immensely but for God's sake go have your vacation and stop worrying about it Thanks on the planking I will try again, but if you see from the front it's just straight. If I make it meet the stem lower, it will have to curve down and that doesn't make much sense to me. Also it's not far above the line I used for the first planking which to me looked too flat. I'll see if I can find a middle ground and then leave it overnight and decide tomorrow.
  18. I finished the starboard rabbet and am trying to lay out the final planking. As of now, this is the "prime line" that all else will be driven off of, the dividing point being where the planks either end into the rudder post or end overhanging the stern fascia/transom. Please let me know if this doesn't look right for some reason
  19. Have fun Rick! Don't worry, I'll just keep count of what's your fault for not being here
  20. I forgot the other part of the spookiness, it's noticeably easier to sharpen than A2, at least as easy as O1. So pay attention with the first sharpening to get a feel for the rate of metal removal. Tony thanks. Although it's Jay/Vossie, Grant is just commenting here. I answer fine to Vossie, have had some version of this name for like 26 years now. Ex-wife #2 who I'm still close to calls me that frequently, usually when she thinks I'm misbehaving. I read your discussion and some of the others on the topmast position to know that you could make an argument for either position but that forward seemed to be more common, so that's what I'm going to do. I wish I had known there was something of a consistent problem with gunports. In my case the issue is the kit designers have gunports following gunwale top line sheer not the deck sheer, and that results in guns at either end that can't shoot low and ones in the middle that can't shoot high. Well that's an exaggeration but they do have differing fields of fire. I think the problem is simply that on the real ships the deck sheer followed the top line sheer. This is 1817, but still quite close to the LN generation, similar top lines and gunports, but you can see the deck indicated just above the wales following that same sheer. Or at least I think that's the deck. If you're wondering I fiddled with this quickly to make it a bit clearer. But a couple more questions while I'm at it - 1. Why is LN carvel built, I thought clinker was still standard early 1800? 2. What in the world is the purpose of the upper mini-wale on LN that crosses the gunports? It's broken in 6 places, its contribution to bulwark strength is going to be pretty close to zero.
  21. You have to understand Gaetan, a 1:24 74 built to your level and fully RC would probably be enough for people to make a physical pilgrimage to see it under sail in the local lake Me included. At 1:12, no need for RC you can ride inside with head through the quarterdeck, sailing her with a zillion little lines run down below deck
  22. Yeah but remember the point is to collect it Although if you're creative you could probably sort of aim the belt sander at a little cup full of thinned glue, if you try that make sure someone records it and post it to Youtube. For educational purposes of course.
  23. Good start Achu, looks like you're thinking of the right things, just need to keep looking ahead and relying on the experience of others until you've done enough to figure out the right ways for you to do things.
  24. Moxis, any good CA glue should work very predictably and all that I buy these days do. It sounds to me like you're using too much, CA is not a glue you want squeezing out because one, that squeezeout is going to rapidly get rock hard and is not fun to remove, and two the glue sets much more slowly if there's lots of it. You want an extremely thin layer with maximum surface contact. Take two short pieces of planking material and put a very thin bead of medium CA glue on one, not enough that it will squeeze out. Press both of them together with fingers for 30 seconds. Now try to get them apart, good luck Medium is the standard thickness used, the thin is like water and only has certain useful applications. The thick/slow you only use when you need to fill gaps.
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