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vossiewulf

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  1. The only problem with spray cans is they distribute paint in firehose fashion, nearly impossible to get a light wet coat like you want with them, it always seems to turn into a very heavy coat for me. So I'd recommend an airbrush if you have one. If you don't, go with the spray cans and try to use as much control as you can. Any paint will work, and preferences vary even more than glue types people use. First, sand the hull out to 400 grit. Spray primer, give it a week to dry. Take 1500 grit and go over everything lightly until you have a nice smooth base. If you burn through the primer in a few places, not a big deal. Then paint and sand, and clear coat, sand, and final clear coat. Sanding between coats is very important to a good level finish. Since you want a very smooth glossy finish for a racing boat, you can spray several clear coats, sanding between. After the third coat you should be able to fully level the surface. Once the surface is levelled, start using finer and finer sandpaper, working up to 2500 grit or so. If you want even more gloss, you move from there to polishing compounds, either for car finishes or jewelers have all sorts of polishing compounds also. With a little patience, you can make things quite shiny. Below is a glider I made for a friend's son using these methods.
  2. vossiewulf

    MONTAÑES by montanes

    Seriously, how do you get the lines to drape like that? Even the line-draping is ridiculously perfect. As is the joinery, as usual.
  3. vossiewulf

    Bass Wood

    Dave, in case your lead doesn't work out, an easy method is to find a local custom cabinet/furniture shop and give them a call. They'll know everything about local wood suppliers and who buys and sells what. That will probably quickly point you to your best options.
  4. Very nice solutioning on the top piece Michael, and extremely clean metal work as usual.
  5. That line has been SERVED with a 140mph ace to the backhand side Beautiful work.
  6. vossiewulf

    Ship paintings

    (Artist hat on) All of them are composed and executed well with good dynamic range, and they just feel lively and have good motion to them. I'd buy prints
  7. Been poking at LN every evening, but progress hasn't been stellar, although my boxwood for the masts and yards arrived, and I'm waiting on a couple more packs of 20.75mm guns from Chuck; it turned out they make much more convincing 3 pounders than the kit parts. Unfortunately that meant having to use the metal carriages, as you'll see below. First though, I decided all of the satin finishes I have are too shiny, I just don't like shiny much on scale objects that have paint. I could probably go with satin for a pure wood finish ship but with paint, it starts to look plastic to me, so I decided to go full matte and in the end settled on Tamiya flat clear lacquer, I decanted it from the spray cans and sprayed it with an airbrush. Since this is intended as the final coat for the hull, I spent several hours sanding everything down one more time, trying to reach as much as possible. Here you can see the hull bottom and the hull side sanded with some 1500 grit. The deck and fixtures were also hit with a large variety of sanding sticks and things to reach everywhere, the deck is very reasonably smooth now. And now finished. I'm much happier with this. Working on the rudder, the pintles were made with carbon fiber rod epoxied to annealed brass strips. The gudgeons are made again with annealed brass strip, bent into a tight U shape and soldered to a brass tube. Various stages of making the rudder. I really didn't enjoy this, it reminded me why I don't like using brass unless you're going with merchanical connections, because the stuff never glues worth a damn. I've tried lots of glues and epoxies, and never found anything that won't pop free if you say BOO to it. For this and smaller scales, I won't be using brass moving forward. The rudder bolts are carbon fiber, and turned into real bolts, going through both sides as I drilled the bolt holes once the strip was already glued in place. Except for the bottom strip, which popped off in that process and had to be re-glued. The gun carriages have had their train tackle holes drilled out, casting plugs filed off, and seams sanded down. I then shot some Tamiya red primer over them, and drilled holes on each side for eyebolts for the breech rope and the gun tackles, but I don't think I will fit the latter. Next is to finalize and paint and finish rudder, ditto gun carriages, then I start turning the masts.
  8. vossiewulf

    Bass Wood

    Basswood is one of the most common modeling woods in the US, and is an excellent carving wood as it is relatively soft, but fine-grained and will hold fine detail. I would look in this google search and see if any of the mills or carver supply places are near you, and call that closest one. Chances are they'll pay you for it if it's good wood.
  9. Gaetan, that is extremely cool. Also you probably know this, but do you know the artist's trick of looking at their work in a mirror? I do that all the time when making stuff, I take a photo and I mirror it horizontally, I see all sorts of issues once flipped that I didn't see in the basic image. Your camera setup is genius for that.
  10. Although I largely agree with you in this case, you're judging others' basic methodology and that's not fair. For example if your intent is to scratchbuild a model that will go in a museum one day (as more than a few in the scratchbuild section are doing), you better be treating it like nuclear plant design and manufacture or you'll miss your mark by a mile. People who pursue that end of the hobby will spend years assembling and comparing documentation until by the time they're ready to build, they've laid out the build process in excruciating detail, nothing is left to chance and they'll build absurdly complex jigs to ensure absolute perfection in the build execution.
  11. Roger is right about aluminum, if you want to use that you have to machine the U, which means removing a fair amount of metal, although with aluminum it goes quickly. I made some very small ones once that got lost in a move and haven't had call to remake them yet, but I did machine the U on the mill into a bar, and then used a slitting saw to split them off into four clamps. If you just have a lathe, you can put the end mill in the chuck and clamp the bar to the cross slide and machine the U that way. But I think Mike's solution is probably best combo of cost + difficulty of making the clamps.
  12. T5 or T6 (hardness) 2024 (alloy) aluminum should work fine in a small clamp, as does brass as Mike has shown. My only suggestion with Mike's clamps is to cross-drill the knurled knob so you can slide a 3/16 steel rod through for extra torque when needed.
  13. Keyway Key stock as I recall is not tool steel but it has been hardened, and it's not a good idea to try to machine hardened steel. If nothing else the tools required are quite expensive.
  14. Since Roger beat me to the punch, and while we're at it, if you're looking for ground stock (or anything else having to do with machining), you can get it at Victor Machinery Exchange. I've been buying from them for 10 years or so.

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