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vossiewulf

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Everything posted by vossiewulf

  1. The only problem with spray cans is they distribute paint in firehose fashion, nearly impossible to get a light wet coat like you want with them, it always seems to turn into a very heavy coat for me. So I'd recommend an airbrush if you have one. If you don't, go with the spray cans and try to use as much control as you can. Any paint will work, and preferences vary even more than glue types people use. First, sand the hull out to 400 grit. Spray primer, give it a week to dry. Take 1500 grit and go over everything lightly until you have a nice smooth base. If you burn through the primer in a few places, not a big deal. Then paint and sand, and clear coat, sand, and final clear coat. Sanding between coats is very important to a good level finish. Since you want a very smooth glossy finish for a racing boat, you can spray several clear coats, sanding between. After the third coat you should be able to fully level the surface. Once the surface is levelled, start using finer and finer sandpaper, working up to 2500 grit or so. If you want even more gloss, you move from there to polishing compounds, either for car finishes or jewelers have all sorts of polishing compounds also. With a little patience, you can make things quite shiny. Below is a glider I made for a friend's son using these methods.
  2. Seems to be a required rite of passage to publicly flail your way through a first build. For introductions, name is Jay and I'm director of production support for the MAP division at Visa that includes Cybersource and Authorize.net. That means I'm on call 24/7. So, no stress or anything. When it comes to the subject at hand I'm something of a ringer though, as I have extensive experience making small precise stuff in many materials, and I have two entire rooms dedicated to workshop. One is for medium-sized power tools and a small scale machine shop (mini-lathe, mini-mill, etc.), other is primarily a woodworking area for hand tool work (this is where ships will be set up). Well three rooms because the semi-finished "bonus room" has my full-sized table saw and I have plans for a Laguna bandsaw to go in there too. And I've already spent a couple years reading extensively on the ships and the building techniques while working on my game, which also needs to continue to make progress, called Line of Battle. Anyway, I have a crapton of tools and my home is arranged around my workshop areas, so you can assume I am divorced and have no constraints The plan for now, and I already have all the kits, is to go Lady Nelson -> brig Syren -> MS Constitution -> Victory HMS Revenge -> Caldercraft Victory. But I also want to do some very small scale also, we'll see. Since this part is uninteresting, only a couple photos - one of squaring up the transom bulkhead and the assembled frame. In case you're wondering, all my little brass flat sanders that are used with PSA paper were machined perfectly square so I don't need to fiddle with heavy machinist's squares except for outside 90s. In case you're wondering, it's being held in a GRS engraver's block. But anyway all clean and straight and square and ready to go to next steps. Planned next step is balsa filler blocks at bow and stern, and to make things super easy on myself I'm probably going to fill in the first three gaps on both ends, so everywhere significant bending is occurring I'll have a surface to work against. However, need some advice on wood. I bought the Crown Timber boxwood package for this, so I have a bunch of boxwood coming. However, I have my own wood and don't want to do it 100% in boxwood, whatever I don't use will get used later in something else. Right now what I'm thinking of is cocobolo for the keel, wales, and rails, lightly stained boxwood planking, and a holly deck. BTW these 1x1x12 American holly turning blanks are available at Woodcraft for $10, good deal if you can resaw to scale timber. However, I'm not sure about the cocobolo, the color of course is great but it has pretty strong grain and figure and may not look good in this small build. Also I'm not sure about the idea of having a keel/stem darker than the main planking. Anyway, advice appreciated, as I'll have this ready for the keel and planking soon. I know, I'll plank it in snakewood. Cut this into 4mm strips, cut in half (it's 5/16" thick) and then plank both sides with strips in the exact order we see here Just kidding of course. That's a $150 guitar fingerboard blank and will be used for that purpose in the future.
  3. vossiewulf

    MONTAÑES by montanes

    Seriously, how do you get the lines to drape like that? Even the line-draping is ridiculously perfect. As is the joinery, as usual.
  4. vossiewulf

    Bass Wood

    Dave, in case your lead doesn't work out, an easy method is to find a local custom cabinet/furniture shop and give them a call. They'll know everything about local wood suppliers and who buys and sells what. That will probably quickly point you to your best options.
  5. Very nice solutioning on the top piece Michael, and extremely clean metal work as usual.
  6. That line has been SERVED with a 140mph ace to the backhand side Beautiful work.
  7. vossiewulf

    Ship paintings

    (Artist hat on) All of them are composed and executed well with good dynamic range, and they just feel lively and have good motion to them. I'd buy prints
  8. Been poking at LN every evening, but progress hasn't been stellar, although my boxwood for the masts and yards arrived, and I'm waiting on a couple more packs of 20.75mm guns from Chuck; it turned out they make much more convincing 3 pounders than the kit parts. Unfortunately that meant having to use the metal carriages, as you'll see below. First though, I decided all of the satin finishes I have are too shiny, I just don't like shiny much on scale objects that have paint. I could probably go with satin for a pure wood finish ship but with paint, it starts to look plastic to me, so I decided to go full matte and in the end settled on Tamiya flat clear lacquer, I decanted it from the spray cans and sprayed it with an airbrush. Since this is intended as the final coat for the hull, I spent several hours sanding everything down one more time, trying to reach as much as possible. Here you can see the hull bottom and the hull side sanded with some 1500 grit. The deck and fixtures were also hit with a large variety of sanding sticks and things to reach everywhere, the deck is very reasonably smooth now. And now finished. I'm much happier with this. Working on the rudder, the pintles were made with carbon fiber rod epoxied to annealed brass strips. The gudgeons are made again with annealed brass strip, bent into a tight U shape and soldered to a brass tube. Various stages of making the rudder. I really didn't enjoy this, it reminded me why I don't like using brass unless you're going with merchanical connections, because the stuff never glues worth a damn. I've tried lots of glues and epoxies, and never found anything that won't pop free if you say BOO to it. For this and smaller scales, I won't be using brass moving forward. The rudder bolts are carbon fiber, and turned into real bolts, going through both sides as I drilled the bolt holes once the strip was already glued in place. Except for the bottom strip, which popped off in that process and had to be re-glued. The gun carriages have had their train tackle holes drilled out, casting plugs filed off, and seams sanded down. I then shot some Tamiya red primer over them, and drilled holes on each side for eyebolts for the breech rope and the gun tackles, but I don't think I will fit the latter. Next is to finalize and paint and finish rudder, ditto gun carriages, then I start turning the masts.
  9. vossiewulf

    Bass Wood

    Basswood is one of the most common modeling woods in the US, and is an excellent carving wood as it is relatively soft, but fine-grained and will hold fine detail. I would look in this google search and see if any of the mills or carver supply places are near you, and call that closest one. Chances are they'll pay you for it if it's good wood.
  10. Gaetan, that is extremely cool. Also you probably know this, but do you know the artist's trick of looking at their work in a mirror? I do that all the time when making stuff, I take a photo and I mirror it horizontally, I see all sorts of issues once flipped that I didn't see in the basic image. Your camera setup is genius for that.
  11. Although I largely agree with you in this case, you're judging others' basic methodology and that's not fair. For example if your intent is to scratchbuild a model that will go in a museum one day (as more than a few in the scratchbuild section are doing), you better be treating it like nuclear plant design and manufacture or you'll miss your mark by a mile. People who pursue that end of the hobby will spend years assembling and comparing documentation until by the time they're ready to build, they've laid out the build process in excruciating detail, nothing is left to chance and they'll build absurdly complex jigs to ensure absolute perfection in the build execution.
  12. Roger is right about aluminum, if you want to use that you have to machine the U, which means removing a fair amount of metal, although with aluminum it goes quickly. I made some very small ones once that got lost in a move and haven't had call to remake them yet, but I did machine the U on the mill into a bar, and then used a slitting saw to split them off into four clamps. If you just have a lathe, you can put the end mill in the chuck and clamp the bar to the cross slide and machine the U that way. But I think Mike's solution is probably best combo of cost + difficulty of making the clamps.
  13. T5 or T6 (hardness) 2024 (alloy) aluminum should work fine in a small clamp, as does brass as Mike has shown. My only suggestion with Mike's clamps is to cross-drill the knurled knob so you can slide a 3/16 steel rod through for extra torque when needed.
  14. Keyway Key stock as I recall is not tool steel but it has been hardened, and it's not a good idea to try to machine hardened steel. If nothing else the tools required are quite expensive.
  15. Since Roger beat me to the punch, and while we're at it, if you're looking for ground stock (or anything else having to do with machining), you can get it at Victor Machinery Exchange. I've been buying from them for 10 years or so.
  16. Another good one is Online Metals, I order from them sometimes.
  17. I've yet to try it, but will at some point- most jewelers use thermoplastic for clamping operations when soldering. Heat the plastic with a torch, embed your pieces into it, let it cool, then solder, as long as you don't use excessive heat the plastic is supposed to hold fine.
  18. vossiewulf

    Model Shipways Constitution

    That pretty much describes me, Larry. I recommend you start with something similar to what I did, a cutter model or a longboat, or something else with a single mast. There is a tremendous amount to learn just building something like that before you step up to the plate for the Constitution. I have that kit in my closet but it will stay there for a while yet before I feel like I'm ready to do it justice.
  19. I'm not sure what else you expect them to be doing, at least on small ships. Here is the anchor windlass I made for my LN, after studying contemporary models. Its size and positioning and method of function can be seen on contemporary cutters. And by ratchet mechanism, I mean a mechanism which can selectively be set to turn only one direction - a pawl is part of a ratchet mechanism. As the barrel turned, the pawl dropped into each tooth and they could stop at any position without losing control of the anchor. With a small crew and small space (you can see they can at most do 90 degree cranks on the windlass) with heavy anchors, they did the best they could, with hands on each bar, turning as far as they could manage in the space.
  20. Windlasses had ratchet mechanisms of some kind, there wasn't any need to move the bars quickly- haul, let the ratchet take the load, remove bar, insert in next hole, repeat.
  21. There is nothing special about the Kunz plane, the steps you take to make it operate well are the same for all planes of all sizes: 1) Bottom of plane is dead flat, 2) bed for the iron is dead flat, 3) back of the plane iron dead flat. The biggest problem with the Kunz is the large, fixed throat opening, this is optimally much smaller but the only way you could really fix it is by welding or silver soldering a piece of cast iron/steel/brass into the throat, and then filing it to the narrow opening that you want. Any of these books will help with setting up any plane you purchase.
  22. vossiewulf

    Hola desde Toledo spain

    Hola Isidro, bienvenido a MSW! Google Translate se está volviendo bastante bueno en estos días, su mensaje fue comprendido fácilmente. Muchos constructores que no hablan inglés lo usan para sus registros de compilación todo el tiempo. Teniendo en cuenta que aproximadamente 4/5 de todos los libros en inglés de Age of Sail podrían ser retitulados. Sin embargo, otro libro sobre la Royal Navy, me complace ver que traiga más libros de historia naval en español al mundo de habla inglesa. Me gusta el RN muy bien, pero es más interesante un libro sobre un tema sobre el que sé poco (diseño del barco español).
  23. vossiewulf

    Surgical Scalpel Blades

    Mark should know what I would say about blades and knives That (un)said, if disposables are a must, then scalpels are generally somewhat sharper and better steel than X-acto blades. However with the shallower taper angle and back bevel on the point, I've also found them more likely to twist in my hand when bearing down with force. I switched back to X-acto after a while because of that, but everyone holds a knife differently so your mileage may vary.
  24. I lost my dear friend Takita this past year, who spent most of the previous 16 years attached to me in some way and disapproving of me whenever I left for any reason. Still can't really talk about it. I'm sorry to hear of your loss, Keith, I know how it feels.

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