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barkeater

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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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    barkeater@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. Old school keel holder. I don't know how everyone else does it but I hold my model on my lap as I secure planks and use the frame/holder just to set it in when not working to keep it from warping
  2. Thanks for the ideas. It will remain a mystery. If I try to picture three dimensionally from the drawing, I see a raised letter H sort of with shorter upper limbs placed on a flat background. For the life of me I can not figure out why other than decorative but the configuration would not help water runoff so why this shape? I like the idea of stamped lead and would guess maybe copper.
  3. I've been looking at the plans for the Unite 1796 concerning the quarter galley roof and I'd be interested to know what the roof was made out of. It looks like it might be metal given the drawing has the appearance of a pattern to the pieces. However Goodwin in "Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War 1650-1850" indicates that they were plank and frame although he notes construction details are unknown. I wonder if they were shingled over with cast metal given the appearance of the drawing. Ideas? Opinions?
  4. I'd go with sanding. 1/32 is not much wood to sand. As you lay planks down you may get slight offset to the surface of the planks secondary to the changing contour or torque to the long axis of the plank secondary to bending the plank. You are going to sand even if you don't get any irregularities to the surface. If you feel your rabbet is deep enough and you are happy with it I would leave it. I would not sand planks before setting the because of the factors above. You can always sand a little more wood off but you can't replace it.
  5. barkeater

    Oooops... My First Big Mistake

    Aaron, By the way, when Chuck talks about drilling and pegging, you can use a pin vise which is a relatively cheap tool ($10) instead of a drill press. Pin vises are an invaluable gadget to have around. Rich
  6. What Vaddoc said. Once you varnish, oil or paint it is tough to glue pieces together and you can use pins inserted so that they do not show into the pieces to help join them. When I do this I use CA but do it carefully and sparingly as it will penetrate the wood and leave a stain on exposed surfaces. I hope this is clear.
  7. I don't paint or stain my wood. I would however venture to mention that if you are going to varnish or use a hard finish that this will cause some difficulty with gluing. In such a case predrill a hole in the object and the place where it will be attached then insert and glue a pin into both to join them. You may want to do this with painted items as well.
  8. I don't use push pins. Short answer to CA vs white glue is CA penetrates the wood leaving a stain which you can't sand off easily while white glue (pva) does not penetrate like CA and doesn't stain and can easily be sanded from the surface. There is an article in this months NRG Journal that notes that CA will disappear with a clear coat but why take the chance. I do know lacquer doesn't cover it in my experience. My advise, use white glue for all wood and use CA where you want to glue metal or plastic to wood. Paper to wood use white glue.
  9. barkeater

    Le Gros Ventre by Henry Drinker

    Beautiful work. Well done.
  10. I ran across this site https://www.minicannontech.com/ which I thought was pretty interesting. They offer functioning mini-cannons including both naval and field cannons. Kind of cool to think you could build a cross section or battle station and have the cannon actually be able to fire.
  11. barkeater

    Coiling Lines Option

    I use white glue to seize lines as well as stiffen coils. I just put some white glue in a paper cup, add water and mix with a tooth pick. I really don't measure but it would be something on the order of 4/1 to 5/1 water to glue. You want it thin enough so that it soaks in and does not leave a visible residue on the surface. You really don't need a thick mixture to stiffen the line.
  12. From Lavery " The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815" " The eighteenth century 3-pounder was between 4ft 6in and 6ft long". Using 5ft my math indicates between 32 and 33 mm so 30mm should be fine.
  13. Here's my bare bones tool collection: Mitre box and saw, flexible ruler with metric, scalpel, clamps (you will collect various), micro files (flat, triangular, round and square), and for me 5x glasses (about $10 on line). I forgot to include sand paper. You can build an entire kit with just these tools except for the rigging. I'm not a big Dremel user but occasionally find it useful but not required. I do use an electric plank bender but with a single plank model you should be able to soak and clamp your planks and omit this initial expense. The Bluenose is painted however if you were going to add treenails say for the deck add Model Machines draw knife as well as a pin vise and small drill bits. That is all you need to build a kit. One word of advice. It is easier to remove more wood than it is to replace it. Good luck.
  14. barkeater

    asking input on first build.....

    As I read the links, both of these seem to be a single plank builds. Please ignore this if I am wrong. You might be better off with a double plank kit where your first planking is just to get the shape and will be covered with the second planking. This allows you to get the technique down and you can make mistakes (gaps) which you can fill in. I have never done a solid hull but sooner or later you are going to do planking anyway and I would not be put off by it. It is also , to me, part of the challenge and fun of a project to figure out how to shape and bend the planking.

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