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jhearl

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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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  • Website URL
    http://modelboatyard.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. Hold Down Jigs

    Perhaps you're thinking of some of the jigs used in this amazing build?
  2. Vaddoc - I confess I'm having a bit of trouble understanding your question. It sounds as if you are attempting to design your own boat rather than working from a set of existing plans. If that's the case, I am not qualified to advise you. However, if you're working from plans, then the information you need should be in those plans. I am guessing that by a curved centerline, you mean that it follows the line of the sheer as opposed to curving from side to side. Of course, the centerline will be straight from bow to stern when looked at from above (in the half-breadth plan), but may be curved up and down (often higher at bow and stern than at midships) when viewed from the side (sheer plan). In real construction, deck beams are typically notched to fit over the sheer clamp or deck clamp (depending on which the boat has). Since the clamp follows the line of the sheer, that means the tops of the deck beams will be parallel to the line of the sheer. Therefore, fairing of the deck beams would not be necessary. Depending on the level of details in the plan, the amount of crown may be specified, such as 6 inches in 10 feet. That has not been the case for the models of small boats I've built, but there is often a cross-sectional view provided showing a deck beam so you can see and measure what the crown is. There is an excellent book on small boat building by Howard I. Chapelle called Boatbuilding. I believe it is out of print, but it's usually easy to obtain a used copy in good condition. It is specifically geared to small sailboats although, of course, it's meant for full-size boats, not models. But it's a very good reference. That book will likely provide you with more and better answers than I can, but I hope this helps to some degree. Note too, that everything I've said above are broad generalizations, not hard and fast rules. Any given designer or boat builder may follow his own set of practices. Cheers - John
  3. yacht rigging for 1:12 scale

    Do a Google search on stainless steel fishing wire. It's usually 7 strands. It's sold in various test strengths, but the stronger the wire, the thicker it is. Doubtless you can find local shops that sell tackle for salt water fishing in your area. Cheers - John
  4. This model is based on lines by Howard I. Chapelle in his book American Small Sailing Craft (pg. 311). Started July 2017 & completed Nov. 2017. The original boat was 27' 5-1/4" between perpendiculars. Model is built to a scale of 3/4"=1' and is about 21-1/2" long. Photos of the model under construction are available at http://www.modelboatyard.com/flattie.html
  5. Although I would make this from brass myself, there's no reason you couldn't make it from wood if you want to paint it black. You can use a full-size electric drill held in a stand or clamped in a vise as a makeshift lathe and shape that tapered part with files or sanding sticks. The straight part of the stack can be made from pieces of dowel. You can drill a hole in the end of the dowel at the top of the stack so it looks more like a pipe. This should be a pretty simple project. Cheers - John
  6. Dremel or Proxxon

    I think you guys have misunderstood the question - he is asking about two different scroll saws - not table saws. I'm not a fan of scroll saws myself and have never used either of these, so I can't offer a very helpful answer. That said, looking at the two online, briefly, I personally would go for the Proxxon. It seems to be more feature-rich than the Dremel and I know Proxxon makes good tools. I shouldn't think finding blades would be that difficult but since the OPs location is unknown, that's only a guess. Cheers - John
  7. You might find the photos on this page of interest: http://mua.apps.uri.edu/in_the_field/skipjack.html Cheers - John
  8. I thought of one more thing you might want to consider about the DRO option. I don't have room in my shop to leave the lathe out on a workbench all the time. I have to store it away between uses. There are a lot of wires and things associated with the DRO that would add to the difficulty of moving it around a lot. So if you're considering the DRO option, you'll likely be happier if you don't ever have to move the lathe. Cheers - John
  9. I see no one has responded so far. I don't have the DRO version of the lathe so I can't comment on the usefulness of DRO. I do have it on my mill and am very glad I do but there haven't been many times where I wished I had it on the lathe, although I can see how it could be useful - especially for repetitive tasks. As for accessories, I think it's a matter of what you can afford and what you want to do. I think it's cheaper to buy a package deal up front than it is to add all the same accessories individually later. I got a B package with mine and some of the things I've used and some I haven't. I didn't feel like I'd need the thread cutting attachment that comes with the C package and so far, haven't missed it. I've often thought about buying the compound slide though and likely will one of these days. I also added a 4-jaw, self centering chuck. I have not had occasion or need to use the steady rest, faceplate, or lathe dog so far and I've had my lathe for about 3 years now. One other accessory you might want to consider is a quick-change tool post. I know Sherline makes one, but I think it's too expensive. You can find one for half the price at Little Machine Shop that looks good - http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039 I bought one made by another company (A2Z) but they have since gone out of business. It would be much more tedious to use the lathe without that tool post. I often change tools frequently while working on a single part. One other accessory you might consider getting is the WW collet set (1160). If you're working with small-diameter wood stock, a collet can hold it well without causing indentation marks the way a 3-jaw chuck can. The drawback to collets, though, is that the diameter of the stock must be very close to the internal diameter of the collet so their usefulness can be limited. I use my 3-jaw chuck 99% of the time. But if, for instance, you were turning a bunch of wooden belaying pins, the collet would be very nice to have. If you only turn metal or wood where the indentations won't matter, then I think the 3-jaw chuck is just fine. I bought my lathe and mill from Discount Campus. They have better pricing than Sherline Direct and they are an authorized reseller. I've bought accessories from them as well and have no complaints. Hope that helps - John
  10. New England Pinky

    This pinky is a heavily kit-bashed version of Model Shipways' Glad Tidings. I wanted to portray it as a working boat rather than as a personal pleasure craft. Build time was about 4 months with a few breaks along the way. Pictures of the build are available on www.modelboatyard.com
  11. Deck from aft

    Although it looks black in the photos, it's actually very dark brown (Jacobean stain on basswood). The deck on the real boat was coated with a mixture of linseed oil, pine tar, and turpentine, so I'm thinking it was pretty dark when fresh. I'd rather it had come out a bit more like the base the model is mounted on.
  12. I started this kit in 2005 but only got the frames installed on the keel before I realized I was in over my head at the time. Started it up again just before Christmas, 2015 and completed it at the end of April 2015.

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