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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. You can find the articles here - http://modelboatyard.com/bluenose2_articles.html Cheers - John
  2. The most challenging (and rewarding) part about building from scratch is that there are no instructions. You have to figure out what to do, when to do it, and how to do it. You have to think far ahead to understand how something you do now might affect what you need to do in the future. The best plans in the world won't help with that. Having experience in building kits is helpful, of course, but you may be surprised at just how different the experience is when you have to go it alone just from a set of plans. If you want to try scratch building, I'd suggest starting with a very simple boat so you can really get a feel for what it takes. Don't forget as well, that you won't have any pre-cut parts. You're bound to need dimensioned lumber that isn't available unless you can mill it yourself. Scratch building is great fun and highly rewarding, but it's certainly not easy. Cheers - John
  3. I've watched all of his videos in the past and that guy is just amazing. Highly recommended! Cheers - John
  4. This thread inspired me to finally make a jig of my own today. Pretty much the same concept. The only thing I did that's a bit different was to make the brass post a bit taller than the highest position of a 4" blade, allowing me to measure from blade to post no matter what the height of the blade. Seems to work.
  5. I can't say exactly what width your planks should be, but there should be 5 planks between the bottom-most plank of the first belt and the top of the second batten. Of course, the width of each plank will change as you move aft. So the width of the plank at bulkhead 7 will be greater than the width of that same plank at bulkhead 13. You might want to take a look at page 6 of part 2 where I talk about placing the second batten. Note that the hull is fuller between bulkheads 8 and 9 than it is on either bulkhead. So in order to have a 5mm wide plank between those two bulkheads, the plank has to be slightly less wide on the bulkheads on either side. That's the reason for pulling that second batten up the hull a bit. Note too, that when you plank the second belt, you'll wind up with fewer planks on each bulkhead as you move forward from bulkhead 7. That's discussed on page 6 as well.
  6. As Doug says, the planking batten is just a guide - not an absolute. When you fair the bulkheads, you might take off more or less material than someone else building the same model so your measurement from keel to deck along any given bulkhead could be slightly different. The key with this and perhaps most other models is that you want all the planks at the widest part of the ship to be about the same width (mostly because it looks nicer). It doesn't matter what that exact width is. For example, if when you measure along the outside of the bulkhead you determine it is 75mm from deck to keel (assuming that's the area you plan to cover - I'm not referring to this model specifically) and you want to use 15 planks, then each plank needs to be 5mm wide at that bulkhead. If you decided you wanted to cover that space with 17 planks, then each plank would have to be about 4.4mm wide at that bulkhead. The number of planks you use is up to you. Of course, if you want to make a realistic model, you might not choose to use planks that would be 3 feet wide on a real ship! And, as with any rule, there are always exceptions. The garboard plank, for instance, could be wider than the rest of the planks. That's not the case on this particular model, however. As you measure plank widths for other bulkheads, the width of the plank will change since the overall space to cover is less on the other bulkheads, but you want to strive, again, to have all of the planks on any given bulkhead to be the same width. In your last pic above, that final plank next to the batten concerns me a little because it seems way too narrow at the ends. It may, however, just appear that way in the photo. Still, I'd take a look at that before going further. You may need to re-do that one. Overall though, it seems to be coming along just fine. By the way - I heartily agree with the suggestion to just buy basswood if you need more planking material. There's no point in buying expensive boxwood - especially if you plan to paint the hull. Cheers - John
  7. Indeed, I've seen the pictures in another thread of that digital solution. Quite impressive. I hope you didn't think I was saying your jig was not a good idea - I was simply saying that using the mic alone for setting repeating plank widths isn't very effective. I have a commercial jig very similar to yours for my 10" saw and it can be quite helpful. I plan to make one for my Byrnes saw as well. One way the mic could be helpful, in fact, is with your current situation. If you know how far off you are with your digital calipers, you can then accurately adjust the fence with the mic. However, if you're going to add that I Gauge device, you won't need the mic at all. Cheers - John
  8. I too thought this might be a good solution and ordered one with my saw, but in practice, it turns out to be not such a great idea. Because I like to work in metric, I ordered the metric version of the mic. The other day, I needed to cut a number of 3mm wide planks and decided to give this method a try. I immediately realized I hadn't accounted for the thickness of the blade. Let's say you are using something like a .040" thick blade, the first thing you have to do is to convert that to millimeters if you're using a metric mic. That happens to be 1.016mm. So you have to move the spindle of the mic 4.016mm, which is not easy to do when the thimble is only marked in .01mm increments. For the next cut, your choice is either to try to move the mic another 4.016mm or reset it to 0 and re-position it against the fence slide. Note that to move the spindle 4mm requires 8 complete turns of the thimble plus that additional 0.016. As well, the maximum travel on the spindle is about 16mm however the barrel is only marked to 13, so you might get lucky and be able to move it three times if you're careful about where you set it to start with, but at that point, you will have made 24+ turns of the thimble to make a few cuts then you'll have to turn it back another 24+ turns to reset it for the next cuts. It gets very time consuming and tedious very quickly. I think the mic has its uses (although I'm finding them to be more limited than I expected), but not for using wide stock to cut multiple planks to an exact width. Some of the problems I mention would go away if you were working entirely in Imperial rather than metric - you could move the thimble to exact marks, but it's still a lot of turns for a few cuts. Cheers - John
  9. Once the glue is dry and the pins are removed, you can dip a small paintbrush into water and put just a small dot of water on the pin hole. Often that's enough to cause the wood to swell so the hole disappears. If not, put a tiny amount of yellow glue on the hole, sprinkle on a bit of sanding dust and then sand the plank lightly over the hole. Personally, I never use ammonia because I can't stand the smell and I don't think it's necessary to pre-bend the planks with this hull. Try gluing just a few bulkheads at a time - no more than you can easily reach with your fingers to hold the plank to the bulkhead. Once the glue sets up (30 secs to a minute or so with medium CA) then the plank should hold just fine. Then you can do a few more bulkheads. Rubber bands can help too. With CA, the glue can soak into the plywood bulkheads rather quickly, so don't wait too long after applying the glue before you put the plank in place and be sure you're using medium CA, not the thin stuff (it will soak in almost instantly). The soaking-in factor is one reason to only do a few bulkheads at a time. Cheers - John
  10. If you have a thick, stiff, steel or aluminum ruler, you put some fine sandpaper on one side using double-sided tape or rubber cement. The sandpaper helps to hold the plank in place while you cut it with an Xacto knife and the ruler provides a nice, straight edge. I have a Permagrit tool that I use in this way. You'll still need to do some final sanding on the edge of the plank.
  11. It's a bit funny to see my name used so often, but I wanted to let you know that I'm still alive and kicking and happy to clear up anything you may not understand about my tutorial. You're welcome to PM me any time or send me an email directly. Looks like you're doing well so far. My one piece of advice at this point is to take your time, read and think ahead, and work out what you're doing and why you're doing it in your head before you do it on the boat. I look forward to watching your progress and I hope you enjoy the build. Cheers - John
  12. I'll offer a somewhat contrarian view. I bought my Preac in 2001 and it has served me well all these years. I have only had my Byrnes saw for a few weeks now. I don't have a lot of room on my tool bench, so I can't have both saws on there at the same time without removing another tool. But since having the Byrnes saw, I have yet to have any need to pull out the Preac. One of the first things I did was make a sliding crosscut table and for the base, I used 3/16" hardboard. (It's sold as marker board and is smooth brown on one side and smooth white on the other). The reason for using 3/16" was so that any long stock placed on the crosscut table would go over the rip fence so that I would not have to be constantly removing/replacing it. I find myself changing between the two modes very frequently and I knew going in that dealing with the rip fence would be a big issue for me. Using such thick material for the base meant using 4" slitting saw blades, but they are working just fine for me. In fact, just the other day I ripped some 3/4" poplar with the 100-tooth blade that Jim sells and it cut through it with no problems at all. Only once have I used the carbide blade so far, and that was to cut some 3/4" boxwood. The slitting saw blade just wouldn't cut it. This was some true, European Box that I had harvested from some old-growth bushes and is hard as a rock. One great advantage of the Byrnes saw over the Preac is the ability to cut thicker material. My Preac would barely cut 3/16" and to cut 1/2" stock meant cutting one side, turning the stock over and cutting the other. And because of the small motor, it would often bind up on something like that. That problem has been entirely solved with the Byrnes saw. The other real nuisance with the Preac was setting the blade to a particular height. The adjustment mechanism on that saw is quite primitive and I found that when I tightened the blade down, the height would change, so there was often a lot of trial and error to get it right. Not so with the Byrnes saw. The height adjustment is quick and precise and stays where you put it when you lock it down. If you need to cut lap joints or notches at a precise depth, this is something you will appreciate immediately. Unless I'm doing something precise like lap joints, I don't even lock down the blade height on the Byrnes saw. On the Preac, you had to lock down the height and it was always awkward (not to mention the hole in the cap screw always being full of sawdust). On my current model, I've lately been making some planks that are about 1/2mm thick and 3mm wide. Pretty tiny stuff. I've had no problems cutting it using my crosscut table (I'm using a 220-tooth 4" blade for this). One issue I've had, however, is that when ripping wider material to get these planks, it is so thin, it slides under the rip fence. So I have to clamp a piece of wood to the fence so that the wood sits right down on the table. The rip fence on the Preac is designed differently and sits tight to the table, so it would be better for that kind of work, but then, I'd have to take one of my other tools off the bench, pull out the Preac, set it up to make the cut, then put everything back in place. If I had room for both saws, I'd probably use both, but as it is, I have not really missed the Preac at all so far. Cheers - John
  13. The first sentence in Chapter 5 of the manual reads as follows: The ESSEX’s hull will be planked in a single layer of1/16” thick basswood strips.
  14. In the same museum where Lagoda is to be found is a model of Kate Cory by Erik A. R. Ronnberg, Jr. I've attached a crappy picture of one of the whaleboats on that model. As you can see, more or less, everything is in there and the boat is ready to go although it's still lashed to the ship. Cheers - John
  15. Those of you who have purchased tiny nuts and bolts from Scale Hardware in the past will recall that they went out of business a while back. I just got an email this morning from Model Motorcars, Ltd. to inform that they have bought the Scale Hardware name and stock and will continue to produce their products. Here's a link to the new site: https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/bolts Cheers - John