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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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  • Location
    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. rigid ratlines

    Here are two examples from real ships. The first is from the whaleship Morgan at Mystic Seaport. The second is fishing schooner. As you can see, they're just lashed in place. Cheers - John
  2. Byrnes saw sled

    I thought I'd make one other suggestion that, in retrospect, makes me feel dumb that I didn't think of it immediately. You don't always need that depth stop part. I mean the little hangy-down part on the right. I had gotten into the habit of removing it and laying the piece of metal and the screw down on the bench. Doubtless, everyone elses' workbenches are neat and tidy at all times, but mine quickly becomes a disaster zone while I'm working. So small parts like that can often get moved out of sight or separated from each other by the gremlins who live in my shop. The simple and obvious solution is to simply turn the part around and hang it down on the back side of the fence. Like I say, I feel dumb that it didn't occur to me to do that until yesterday, but maybe it's something that hasn't occurred to someone else yet either. (Not saying you're dumb! ) Cheers - John
  3. Byrnes saw sled

    I got my sliding table last week. The little plastic-topped screws for the depth stop really annoyed me - too hard to grab and start in the holes. So I went to the hardware store and got some brass 6-32 machine screws and knurled brass nuts. I glued the nuts to the screws with a bit of medium CA. I find these way easier to use. Cheers - John
  4. Marine Walk

    I am no expert on glass or much of anything for that matter! During the time I was there, the house underwent a major restoration and a great deal of effort was put into determining what parts of the house were original. There is also a well-documented chain of ownership of that house. The majority of the window sashes were determined to be original to the house. There was at least one replaced after the American Civil War because a cannonball penetrated the house, largely destroying at least one window. In any case, the experts were able to determine which panes were original and which were replaced in the 1880s. Exactly how, I can't say. Perhaps through examination of the paint and glazing around them or perhaps some sort of examination of the glass itself. As best I can recall, they didn't remove any of the panes during the restoration but the restoration started about 2 years before I went to work there. Window glass in the 1700s was made in a different way than glass made in the 1800s so it had a different appearance. A web search on "dating window glass" will turn up a good bit of interesting material.
  5. Marine Walk

    I spent 12 years working in a Colonial American house museum. http://kenmore.org/ The house was built in the 1770s. Most of the glass in the 16 large windows in that house still have the original glass. Some of the panes were replaced in the 1880s. It was easy to tell which glass was original because it looked much better than the 1880s glass. It was as clear and transparent as any glass you would see today. The 1880s glass had a number of blemishes and bubbles. It was still clear however. Cheers - John
  6. Having just finished my round-stern workboat and being ready to move on to the next project, I've lately been contemplating building a diorama - something I've never done before. I think it would be an interesting experience. I find that I love to make small, detail stuff like tools and buckets and such, so my idea would be a boat shop, along the lines of the picture below.
  7. Eight Sided Drainage Mill scale 1:15 (Achtkante Poldermolen)

    Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia: http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration: http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html Cheers - John
  8. Actually, it was: "Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men? The Shadow knows!" (this followed by a rather sinister laugh) One of my favorite radio programs when I was a kid! Yes - I'm that old. Yikes. Actually, it was re-broadcasts in the '50s, but still....
  9. I kind of wound up with the opposite situation - inch lathe and metric mill. I use metric a lot in modeling, so I thought it would be good to have a metric mill, purchased a year or two after the lathe. However I didn't think about the fact that the end mills that come with the tool are in inch sizes as are most edge finders and much of the stock I work with. So I have to keep a chart next to the mill that shows the size of the cutters in mm. Sure - I could replace them all with metric end mills, but the ones that came with it are perfectly fine, so I haven't done that. And if you want to move to the center of, say, a 1-inch part, you have to convert that to mm as well. So a minor annoyance but if I had it to do over again, I'd just get an inch mill. Since my name was mentioned above with regards to the 17" lathe, I'll say I still wish I'd gotten the longer bed. It would only have been $100 more up front but the cost to change out all the parts is around $300. While I don't often need the length for parts I make, getting that tail stock out of the way would really be helpful when I have something like the 3-jaw chuck and a drill bit in it. Although I would probably use the DRO on the lathe if I had it, I really can't say I've missed it. And because I don't have room to leave my lathe out all the time, it would just be an extra effort to move the DRO box and plug in cables. The two machines don't sit anywhere near each other. Just wouldn't be worth the cost to upgrade the lathe to DRO to me. Your mileage may vary. Cheers - John
  10. New guy building the Smuggler

    If it's in your budget, I'd suggest you buy a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard I. Chapelle. It will answer many questions about these type boats as you move through the build. It's available at Amazon and can be had used as well. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522363869&sr=8-1&keywords=fishing+schooners Also, if you want to see the ultimate build of this model, check out Bob Steinbrunn's version - just incredible and certainly something to aspire to! https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM7nihATa1ff35NtyzKqnAPcI71Y76r93ddvZq_FtDY69uiBkvytrBfRp5oePTLZA?key=ZU9KTXUwbDF3RzJWM3d1RHdjXzliUnU0RnBMWXdB Cheers - John
  11. Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things! Cheers - John
  12. Byrnes saw sled

    OK - got it - thanks!
  13. Byrnes saw sled

    Would someone who has this already be kind enough to tell me the thickness of the base plate? I have the 17" version of the saw so the sliding table would fit without having to remove the fence. But the question is whether any long stock laid on the table would clear the fence, which is about 9/64" high (without the extended fence). Thanks - John
  14. Mast Location on AL Bluenose II

    Art - I just made a comment in your build log just to keep it all together. Cheers - John
  15. Given the nature of your questions, it would appear that ship modeling is new to you. Perhaps it would be wise to shelve Katy for now and start with a more modern kit with better instructions until you gain some experience? Once you've built a few models, you'll have a much better idea of how to approach making and/or sourcing the parts you need. If you're determined to press ahead with Katy, Bluejacket, Model Shipways, and Ages of Sail are all good sources for fittings. Cheers - John

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