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About AON

  • Birthday November 15

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Spin and fly fishing;
    Violin and fiddle (you need to understand the difference to get this);
    Wood carving;
    Reading historical/fiction;
    Use to do a lot of sailing and hunting when I was much younger.

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  1. Found an excellent article on the internet describing how to use the draw plate to make treenails. As it is published on the WWW readily for anyone to find via Google I hope I am not breaking any rules by posting the link. https://issuu.com/msbjournal/docs/msbjournal-july-2010
  2. Interesting. Like anything else I imagine there'd be a point it would need to be replaced. Hope my wife doesn't read this!
  3. I believe the CG (centre of gravity) is low enough that this would not normally happen. So long as the men stood clear to the sides they would survive the recoil. With the camber of the deck and a calm sea everything helps the gun crew reposition the gun too early. They need to haul it back away from the gun port to have access to clean, swab, and reload. Then haul it back out to fire again in record time... back breaking work with ringing in their ears and smoke in their eyes. Then the normal condition is they would be on a tack, heeled over, and in rough seas... with someone firing back at them. Logically the breech rope is a large size to withstand the strain. The wheels are different sizes front to back to assist in range, compensate for the deck camber, and adjust the CG. This rope would be wrapped and seized until a better idea was implemented (the ring cast into the cannon to eliminate the need to seize the line)... sort of an ISO2000 concept... constant improvement.
  4. YES Aren't I the lucky one! Just took four frames off the port side and One is back on. Should have the others all back on tomorrow ... just in time for our meeting on Friday afternoon.
  5. Picked up a (ever so slightly) used draw plate from a wonderful member of our local club this morning. I am surprised by the heftiness/weight of this tiny plate and now appreciate the cost of a new plate! Just glued the last adjusted frame onto the starboard side and will start the port side later tonight.
  6. They are getting affordable and print in Wood/PLA mix that is sandable and can be stained! That has got me thinking about parts for my build ... i.e. gun carriages? You need a clean stable enviroment so mine is on top of the low file cabinet in our study (fancy word for where we keep the computer). I decided on the JGAurora A5 as it has a good size heated bed and print height... good reviews and an active online forum for help.
  7. Done recovering from yet another eye injection, so having rested I've taken another critical look at the frames. Adjusted (lowered) the set mentioned by Paul and it made a big difference. I realized I had been focusing on the breadth placement as the top of the frames were cut a little bit longer than necessary. After measuring from the keel up to the chock split line (top of the lower futtock) it proved the frame should be dropped! So I learnt something else! Then I took this new knowledge and decided to lower two other frames a wee bit.... popped off more frames than I intended! Hope to have this back together properly with spacers by Friday for our next local club meeting.
  8. some updates! I purchased a 3D printer with the capability to print my cannon in one piece. I resized the insignia on my CAD model to the original proper size, converted the file to .stl, loaded it into the slicer program, loaded this "gcode" file into the printer and pushed print. (Don't I seem smart... it is all smoke and mirrors) 14 hours and 35 minutes later I had a cannon. I took it to our last club meeting and John, a fellow with years of painting model experience (with 1st place ribbons to prove it) suggested if I gave it two or three light spray paint coats of Beauty Tone Flat Black Enamel Acrylic paint it would eliminate the shininess, bring out the insignia and all my concerns would disappear. Here it is below with three light coats! 12 hour minimum drying time between coats as he recommended. I'll be taking it to our club meeting this Friday and then switching it out on by build. I've tried printing the cannon multiple times (tweaking slicer settings) at 1:64 scale for my other build (HMS Bellerophon) with no success. So I've ordered smaller extrusion nozzles (0.2 and 0.3 mm versus the 0.4 mm nominal size provided with the machine) in the hopes one will do the job at the reduced scale. They have been shipped from China. Now I wait.
  9. Regarding safer, easier methods of blackening metals... This is a link to the blog page of our local club website. scroll down to our 13th of January meeting and Ray describes what and how. https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/blog Regarding fishing line for faux bolts. I do this also, using black monofilament. It comes in different diameters so you find one closest to your scale. It comes in a spool that will likely do your whole build. I did not invent this but learnt about it here on the forums. I cut off a length (about a foot), rough it up with sand paper so my yellow wood glue will hold (something to grip to), wipe the end and sides in the glue and insert the filament in the predrilled hole. Then I cut it off with scissors and let it dry. I go back and cut it flush with a scalpel. I've tried to remove a couple and it was impossible!
  10. LOS = Liver of Sulphur. What I have comes in small "rocks". You mix a very small amount in hot water. The water turns a shade of yellow. You drop your copper part into it and mix it around for a few seconds, take it out, rinse it off to stop the reaction and your done. The part must be cleaned in soapy water, and rinsed off, and then washed off in (rubbing) alcohol to remove all dirt, grim, oil (finger marks) first. After the cleaning you handle the part with cleaned tweezers so as not to recontaminate it. There are safer, easier, liquid products that will oxidize the copper. But the item must still be cleaned.
  11. I've seen some sketches showing hooks on the ends of two breech ropes engaged in the rings of eye bolts on the cheeks of the carriage. I imagine this was followed by the single line wrapped around the cascable because in my mind the thrust and impact would eventually distort and tear the ring apart. If you chose to use the hook method I would mouse the hook so it doesn't jump off.
  12. Mark Regarding your thought of perhaps no seizing at all.... I can tell you from my experience that seizing a line or whipping was common practice and would not be given a second thought. The thought of the sight of an unkempt ragged cut line drove my kind nuts. In my full time job as a mechanical designer I once stood at our company display booth at a technical show in Chicago and backspliced a barrier rope because the sight of it drove me nuts. I would put good money down on it. They would want everything tiddley and squared away.
  13. Any other books I have are too early ( breech rope threaded through a hole in the side of the carriage cheek) or later (with the breech rope threaded through a ring cast above the button) and so they were rigged differently. Most do not show any seizing but seizing makes sense as I imagine with the thrust backwards a spring back forwards might likely occur and the breech rope might be thrown off. Was the breech rope turned over or under the cascable and then seized? I envision the large line (breech rope) would lay better (downwards) if turned over and seized under as Druxey recommended, otherwise it could be one more safety hazard.

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