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Everything posted by AON

  1. Found an excellent article on the internet describing how to use the draw plate to make treenails. As it is published on the WWW readily for anyone to find via Google I hope I am not breaking any rules by posting the link. https://issuu.com/msbjournal/docs/msbjournal-july-2010
  2. My build log... back dated to what I consider my actual date of commencement up to today events. 31 Dec 2013 Found information on HMS Bellerophon on the internet which rekindled a spark. My interest in the Billy Ruffian stems from my joining #141 Royal Canadian Sea Cadet Corps Bellerophon of Welland Ontario Canada in 1967 at 12 and a wee bit years of age. I have not been involved in the cadet movement for over a quarter century now but those great memories haven't died away. 04 Jan 2014 Stumbled onto modelshipworld.com and after skulking about for an hour decided to join the group; intend to actually scratch build the first Bellerophon Looking at various Arrogant class build logs (Vanguard & Bellerophon kits) Looking at Victory and Bellona build logs Looking at tools, build methods and little tricks used Overwhelmed with the work done by others and information available; realize how little I know; determined to do my homework. My last (and only) scratch build was a 27 ft whaler. I was quite familiar with them (and the 30 ft. cutters) as I worked at the boat shed at HMCS Quadra for two summers. Found literature on rigging details on another site; looking for info on mast size details. Got info for plans from forum to order from NMM. Found four plans: HMS Arrogant (too early; they made changes to the design later) HMS Edgar (ordered well before but launched after Bellerophon) HMS Goliath (ordered after Edgar, launched before Bellerophon; should record the changes made from Edgar on) HMS Elephant (built same time as Bellerophon so may be the best plan). £60 each = $107 CDN ... pretty steep. E-mailed NMM to see if there was a “buy in bulk” price discount. These plans are about 3 ft x 7 feet each. Not sure where I can lay them out to use and NMM insists they cannot be copied (to make a working set and keep these clean). This presents a problem. I decided not to look at HMS Vanguard as it was the last of the ships built... well after the Bellerophon... and so might possibly have other changes. 11 Jan 2014 Realize if I download build photos and reference documents into folders from the FORUM and other sites and build my own reference library I will retain more of what I see in my memory (works for me as I am “hands on” type of learner). This has kept me busy! 15 Jan 2014 My ex CPO (a modeller by night and Mechanical Engineer in the Pulp and Paper industry by day) recommended “The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee; Found on Amazon and Abesbooks.com, pretty pricey at $100+ Found on inter-library loan (Gateneau, Quebec, Government Library, 3 week duration, 3 renewals, no charge); this will allow me to decide (for free) if I should buy the book. Found Rigging Model Ships – A Practicum by Robert E. Hunt 2013 on forum www.lauckstreetshipyard.com at $119 … once again quite steep 16 Jan 2014 Discovered there are two different figureheads for the Bellerophon; Downloaded photographs to my reference library. The first has only the neck and head remaining but is said to have been a full body. The second was torso and head. I intend to recreate the first using the second for inspiration! 30 Jan 2014 Received a collection of modelling reference books purchased from a member of this site. Most turn out to be exactly what this sorrowful example of a modeler needs. Talk about an idiot`s luck! 08 Feb 2014 After some confusion (mostly on my part) I finally ordered and downloaded the TIFF ships plans from NMM. Decided on the TIFF image as it is the clearest possible and I do not have the room to layout 7 foot long plans. HMS Goliath, one image - lines HMS Elephant, two images - lines and deck plans It cost me £150 for the set of three (3) images. They gave me the three JPEG images (quoted at £50 a set) for free. There is a considerable difference in detail between the two types of files. I am not disappointed. TIFF images are 729Mb, 722Mb and 905Mb JPEG images are quite small (1Kb or less) at 300 DPI My PDF program (from which I can measure) will not open the TIFF images because they are too large for it and the JPEG images are too grainy. Converted the TIFFs to PDFs at 1200 x 1200 (Largest the program would allow) and they are very clear! Now I intend to get my measurements off the electronic images and redraw in Solidworks to be able to create templates. I will start my posting of images from here. Might be a while as I have to figure out quite a bit and the first step is always the hardest. Once I have the plans partially redrawn I can make a final decision regarding the scale of the scratch build and degree of finish or completeness as I will also have to decide where the final display resting place might be. I have stepped through to the dark side … no going back now, eh? Following photos are clips taken from my PDF program showing how I intend to get my measurements. I will use the scale provided on the drawings to convert my small measurements to full size. It is difficult to get a perfectly vertical or horizontal measurement so I will need to use some old fashion trig calcs to make corrections like the straw man said in the wizard of oz; record all data in excel and then transfer the info to Solidworks.
  3. Interesting. Like anything else I imagine there'd be a point it would need to be replaced. Hope my wife doesn't read this!
  4. I believe the CG (centre of gravity) is low enough that this would not normally happen. So long as the men stood clear to the sides they would survive the recoil. With the camber of the deck and a calm sea everything helps the gun crew reposition the gun too early. They need to haul it back away from the gun port to have access to clean, swab, and reload. Then haul it back out to fire again in record time... back breaking work with ringing in their ears and smoke in their eyes. Then the normal condition is they would be on a tack, heeled over, and in rough seas... with someone firing back at them. Logically the breech rope is a large size to withstand the strain. The wheels are different sizes front to back to assist in range, compensate for the deck camber, and adjust the CG. This rope would be wrapped and seized until a better idea was implemented (the ring cast into the cannon to eliminate the need to seize the line)... sort of an ISO2000 concept... constant improvement.
  5. YES Aren't I the lucky one! Just took four frames off the port side and One is back on. Should have the others all back on tomorrow ... just in time for our meeting on Friday afternoon.
  6. Picked up a (ever so slightly) used draw plate from a wonderful member of our local club this morning. I am surprised by the heftiness/weight of this tiny plate and now appreciate the cost of a new plate! Just glued the last adjusted frame onto the starboard side and will start the port side later tonight.
  7. I will be getting back to my slow progressing scratch build of HMS Bellerophon with a goal to complete all the frames before next summer... but after a summer of home renovations, grass cutting, fishing, and a little carving, I found myself being drawn to something a couple members of our local club (Model Shipwrights of Niagara) brought to one of our monthly meetings earlier in the year (before the summer). This project was started on 24 October 2018.
  8. They are getting affordable and print in Wood/PLA mix that is sandable and can be stained! That has got me thinking about parts for my build ... i.e. gun carriages? You need a clean stable enviroment so mine is on top of the low file cabinet in our study (fancy word for where we keep the computer). I decided on the JGAurora A5 as it has a good size heated bed and print height... good reviews and an active online forum for help.
  9. Done recovering from yet another eye injection, so having rested I've taken another critical look at the frames. Adjusted (lowered) the set mentioned by Paul and it made a big difference. I realized I had been focusing on the breadth placement as the top of the frames were cut a little bit longer than necessary. After measuring from the keel up to the chock split line (top of the lower futtock) it proved the frame should be dropped! So I learnt something else! Then I took this new knowledge and decided to lower two other frames a wee bit.... popped off more frames than I intended! Hope to have this back together properly with spacers by Friday for our next local club meeting.
  10. some updates! I purchased a 3D printer with the capability to print my cannon in one piece. I resized the insignia on my CAD model to the original proper size, converted the file to .stl, loaded it into the slicer program, loaded this "gcode" file into the printer and pushed print. (Don't I seem smart... it is all smoke and mirrors) 14 hours and 35 minutes later I had a cannon. I took it to our last club meeting and John, a fellow with years of painting model experience (with 1st place ribbons to prove it) suggested if I gave it two or three light spray paint coats of Beauty Tone Flat Black Enamel Acrylic paint it would eliminate the shininess, bring out the insignia and all my concerns would disappear. Here it is below with three light coats! 12 hour minimum drying time between coats as he recommended. I'll be taking it to our club meeting this Friday and then switching it out on by build. I've tried printing the cannon multiple times (tweaking slicer settings) at 1:64 scale for my other build (HMS Bellerophon) with no success. So I've ordered smaller extrusion nozzles (0.2 and 0.3 mm versus the 0.4 mm nominal size provided with the machine) in the hopes one will do the job at the reduced scale. They have been shipped from China. Now I wait.
  11. Regarding safer, easier methods of blackening metals... This is a link to the blog page of our local club website. scroll down to our 13th of January meeting and Ray describes what and how. https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/blog Regarding fishing line for faux bolts. I do this also, using black monofilament. It comes in different diameters so you find one closest to your scale. It comes in a spool that will likely do your whole build. I did not invent this but learnt about it here on the forums. I cut off a length (about a foot), rough it up with sand paper so my yellow wood glue will hold (something to grip to), wipe the end and sides in the glue and insert the filament in the predrilled hole. Then I cut it off with scissors and let it dry. I go back and cut it flush with a scalpel. I've tried to remove a couple and it was impossible!
  12. LOS = Liver of Sulphur. What I have comes in small "rocks". You mix a very small amount in hot water. The water turns a shade of yellow. You drop your copper part into it and mix it around for a few seconds, take it out, rinse it off to stop the reaction and your done. The part must be cleaned in soapy water, and rinsed off, and then washed off in (rubbing) alcohol to remove all dirt, grim, oil (finger marks) first. After the cleaning you handle the part with cleaned tweezers so as not to recontaminate it. There are safer, easier, liquid products that will oxidize the copper. But the item must still be cleaned.
  13. I've seen some sketches showing hooks on the ends of two breech ropes engaged in the rings of eye bolts on the cheeks of the carriage. I imagine this was followed by the single line wrapped around the cascable because in my mind the thrust and impact would eventually distort and tear the ring apart. If you chose to use the hook method I would mouse the hook so it doesn't jump off.
  14. Mark Regarding your thought of perhaps no seizing at all.... I can tell you from my experience that seizing a line or whipping was common practice and would not be given a second thought. The thought of the sight of an unkempt ragged cut line drove my kind nuts. In my full time job as a mechanical designer I once stood at our company display booth at a technical show in Chicago and backspliced a barrier rope because the sight of it drove me nuts. I would put good money down on it. They would want everything tiddley and squared away.
  15. Any other books I have are too early ( breech rope threaded through a hole in the side of the carriage cheek) or later (with the breech rope threaded through a ring cast above the button) and so they were rigged differently. Most do not show any seizing but seizing makes sense as I imagine with the thrust backwards a spring back forwards might likely occur and the breech rope might be thrown off. Was the breech rope turned over or under the cascable and then seized? I envision the large line (breech rope) would lay better (downwards) if turned over and seized under as Druxey recommended, otherwise it could be one more safety hazard.
  16. Mark, Do you have a copy of Anatomy of the Ship - The 74 gun Ship Bellona by Conway. Section J contains sketches on the armament. Below are two of the many. I am told there are some inaccuracies but I haven't the knowledge or expertise to say what is what. I will look look in a couple other books I have.
  17. Just sent you some pics by PM. hope they are somehow helpful. I have a bunch of other rigging, on deck and below deck photos if you are interested.
  18. AON

    Greetings bored in retirement!

    Welcome Robert. I've been retired two and a half months, laid off (mutual agreement) seven months prior to that. I am more busy now than ever, chasing all the things that interested me and I hadn't the time before... and finding new interests. I find the days are too short and the nights too long. Back in 1990 I was off due to medical reasons and when well enough ... and thoroughly bored... I turned to model making too. I do know how you feel. My whaler build got me through the worst of it, gave me a focus. You will find no better support group (for modelling) than here... second to the "little boss" of course!
  19. Daveyboy, I recall when I spent an afternoon sailing onboard the brig Niagara on Lake Erie the Capt'n (or cox'n) was standing on a bridge structure behind the tiller and his visibility was still somewhat obstructed. The First Mate was well forward about ten feet up the ratlines, giving orders to the crew and alerts back to the Capt'n.
  20. Thank you Paul. I had seen that in the photo before posting it and went to have a look. It seems more likely a high angle thing... but having said that I hope I don't find you were correct after all. I guess I'll know for sure soon enough.
  21. I have gone down to the dungeon half a dozen times today trying to figure out why the width aligns perfectly with the plan below but the contour of the aft frames don't "flow" naturally into this square frame. Now that you've asked the question the answer to my concern is obvious! I need to check if it should have been tapered. Also, I was reading in TFFM yesterday about the addition of a cross support and was once agained amazed at the authors foresight... or possibly it was a lesson he learned the hard way. I will be removing the frame in a couple minutes. Thank you.
  22. First full square frame installed. #22Fwd. First time I used the square frame support. Clamped the frame to it with an elastic band. Now I start installing the spacer blocks near the top side to lock them all together.

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