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  1. HMS Hood 1941 - FlyHawk - 1:700 After two paper models and since the weather was more suitable for painting, I started the HMS Hood. I also added a wooden Deck and masking Sheet kit at a very good price for more realism. The kit has a lot of small parts and seems to be very well detailed. First I tried the application of the wooden deck and it seems to be excellent.
  2. Not my first kit, but first in 40 years! I started building this model that long ago, but 2 kids, and life interfered. I always told myself, "Tomorrow, tomorrow". Well. tomorrow has arrived. Now, if I can live long enough, I WILL finish her. These pictures are a start. Funny, I was having trouble taking good pics with my old camera(a Sony dslr), but picked up an older Nikon Coolpix, and man, what a difference! This is one beautiful camera. Only one problem. It shows warts and all. Looking at the pictures, I see every little flaw. Lots of paint touch-ups to do. I know I am not up to the standards of some (read any) of you, but I will give it my best!
  3. Hello, everyone! I've been quietly reading these forums for some time and finally decided to chime in with my own build. Others' build logs have been a huge source of information and encouragement for me during the build process, so I hope this log can be of some benefit to others. I worked on this kit for a week or so about nine years ago, and only picked it up again this year. It's my first model kit I've built as an adult and first ship of any kind (Although as a teenager, I painted the hull of the larger 1:96 kit from Revell, then immediately gave up). I also started with zero knowledge of ships, so this whole thing is a learning experience. Much of the work I've done recently has aimed to undo or improve mistakes I made when I first started. One of my biggest mistakes was choosing to modify anything at all, as this slowed the process and made me feel daunted at various points. As a beginner, I regret spending so much time tweaking this kit instead of progressing through multiple kits over the years. Still, I'll mostly focus on modifications here because that's what I've most closely documented. These first photos are from 2015, so some of this is more retrospective. My earliest record is of hastily assembling the hull and deck and painting various details. I tried replicating the paint of the real ship, which lead me to notice differences in the bow and other details. I couldn't figure out why the model had a figurehead, which lead me to research that interesting history. At this point, I should mention that I had two of these kits to work with. Both were purchased at Goodwill totaling less than $5, so I recklessly decided to sacrifice one in an effort to make the bow section more closely resemble the real ship in its current state. Even though I had already installed the boomkins and metallic anchor thread, I ripped everything apart and temporarily ruined both kits. I cut off part of the stem from the donor ship far enough down so that it would extend to roughly the correct height when reshaped and attached to the working model. A bit of jump, but here's the result. I tried filling the gaps with Tamiya putty but you can still see the seam where the two pieces meet and the decorative relief doesn't match up. The other white details were made using thin strips of masking tape for curves and covered with acrylic sealant. The whole endeavor still misses the mark for accuracy, but it makes the bow more recognizable in profile, which I count as a success. At some point, I also lined the hull with real copper leaf but didn't like the look of it and painted over it with green. I think this was because most of my reference photos showed the ship in dry dock.
  4. Hello everyone: This log will go back in time a bit, like a lot of my projects this one started roughly twenty years ago. During the early 2000's this tug, the Malaspina Straits, was listed for sale on a used vessel website. With the posting were a few photos of the tug out of the water along with a few drawings. At the time I was quite into 3D modelling and thought that this would be a fun project to make a few renderings of. One thing led to another and the project never did get off of the ground and the files were tucked away. Fast forward to sometime around 2017 and it was suggested that we build a pond at the local museum; the model ship bug bit, at this same time I was realizing that HO scale model trains, while neat, just won't fit my current living arrangements. The ship bug really bit when the missus and I purchased a property with a small pond, and a pond needs a boat so the search was on for a prototype. While organizing some files I stumbled upon the old drawings and photos saved some twenty years prior. A little looking online showed that she was again for sale and a few queries put me onto the naval architect. After making a call to see about getting a set of drawings the architect noted that this was a common request and asked that I mail a cheque to them, but make it out to another independent society that is rebuilding a steam tug, the SS Master. The Master is British Columbia's last surviving wooden hulled steam tug, once I learned that the "fee" for the drawings was going to help with this restoration I couldn't get the cheque book fast enough. Check out the SS Master here: SS Master The Malaspina Straits was launched in 1964 and was one of a group of three ships, the Rasario Straits and the third escapes me at the moment, all built for Straits Towing Ltd. of Vancouver, BC. Considered a hot rod of a tug it was primarily designed for moving chip barges up and down the West Coast of British Columbia. The tug moved around to various owners over the years and was refit a few times, the model that I am building will be per the original drawings. I've never seen the tug myself so can't post any photos of it but here is a link to a page with a bit more detail: Malaspina Straits - Nauticapedia.ca As far as model ships go, I've never built one, at least from scratch however I have turned heaps of styrene into other buildings, trucks and various model railway related things. As I was more familiar with modelling in styrene and as this model will be used in the water styrene felt like a better fit than wood, it may be, it may not be, time will tell. Just after the ugliness of Covid descended upon the world the model got under way, a few 4' by 8' sheets of styrene were purchased from a local supplier and bits started to be cut out...
  5. Question, In the instructions it shows gluing the ship to the stand early in the build. I worry that might restrict flexibility in painting. Can/should I wait until closer to installing masts etc? David
  6. Part 2: Digging In This is a photo of my completed Golden Hinde. You should remember this if you've been a long-time viewer of my build logs. As I was building this model, I ended up noticing multiple historical inaccuracies. For one thing, the Golden Hinde might not have even looked like this. In Wikipedia's records, it was armed with 22 guns of different types. This ship is armed with 12 guns. In fact, the Golden Hinde was probably not even a race-built ship as is depicted here. For a 1965 kit, it holds up to scrutiny however. That being said, calling it the Golden Hinde might be a fallacy. There is also the issue of the belaying pins. Baker told me as I was well underway with the running rigging that English ships didn't start incorporating belaying pins until over a century after the Golden Hinde sailed. Plus, let's face it- with the skill and knowledge I have today, I could do a lot better on this kit. For one thing, the entirety of the shroud assemblies could be scratch-built. Secondly, the majority of the rigging and sails do not hold up to my current skillset, and the anchors and flags are the same way. I would like to significantly improve the paintwork as well. While the paint job is relatively good looking even now, I have better paints and brushes than I had then. I also have better tools and fittings. That leads me to my plan, and this build log. I will not touch the original Golden Hinde. However, I will order the Heller version of this kit and do that. I am planning on doing all my normal work on the ship, while paying special attention to the paint, sails, and rigging. I plan on making silkspan sails, putting decals on the sails, staining the rigging (something Kirill told me I should do) as well as making general improvements. This is still just a plan, and I haven't even ordered the kit yet. However, it would be nice to have some company while I work on what is hopefully going to be my best model yet. I plan on portraying this ship as a small galleon of the English fleet that went up against the Spanish Armada in 1588, and yes it is named after someone I know, but for official records, the name Queen Elizabeth comes from the English tradition of naming ships after the reigning monarch at the time. There were two ships in the Elizabethan Navy bearing her name (The Elizabeth Jonas and the Elizabeth Bonaventure) so this name is historically plausible. For now, this is a research log.
  7. While I’m new to MSW I am not new to model ship building. In my earlier life, I built two period sailing ships: Heller 1/200 L'indomptable and the Revell 1/96 Elizabethan Man ‘O War. Sadly, these did not survive the decades since I built them. My current project is the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While I say ‘current’ my story is similar to that of others in this forum. I bought my kit around about 1984 but a busy career and family life meant the project became an on-again off-again proposition. Clearly, more off than on. I am now retired and motivated to push this project to completion. The hull of my model is mostly complete but the rigging is a whole other challenge and I will need help. And lots of it. Ian Grant, who completed a fabulous rendition of this model has already been immensely helpful to me. A few pictures follow: . I’m told this is a 1st generation kit, C1979. I believe Heller is now into its 3rd iteration. Hard to believe but in 1984 this kit was $CDN180! I am re-doing the bowsprit standing and running rigging since I originally rigged it per the kit instructions. That is simply no longer acceptable 😊 I’m glad I completed most of the finicky painting - aft gingerbreads, balusters, coats of arms, etc. (quoting Billy Joel) “when I wore a younger man’s clothes” 😉 Good news is, while my eyesight isn’t as sharp as it once was, my hand is still pretty steady. I built this temporary enclosure to protect the model while also helping to keep it dust free. It still managed to collect dust! My main work area (I have another for sub-assemblies) looks quite ‘proper’ with the Brown Bess musket on the wall (I fashioned a whole new forestock for it), the contemporary picture of Victory in Portsmouth Harbour and the Victory crest. My wife says it looks like a shrine…and I’m ok with that too 😁 You can tell by this picture of my bar area that I’m all things ‘Nelson’ - the Britannia Triumphant poster, the rum ration cup with Nelson’s image, Nelson’s portrait (I also have a same sized portrait of Lady Hamilton) and the battle line serving tray. Since I was a very young lad, Horatio Nelson has always been my #1 hero. In my adult life I can honestly say I have never missed recognising Trafalgar Day (Oct 21st). Whether in quiet contemplation or a raised glass. Or both 😁
  8. I thought it's time to get my build log started, even though I haven't actually started the build yet. Soon. I've been quite busy with research, planning and start up. Essentially 50 years since I built scale models, so lots to do in preparing for this build. Start up is still in progress. Before anything else, I first off just want to put out a big thanks to Evan, aka Force9, for his very detailed and resources rich Titanic 1/200 build log. I’ve learned so much from his thread, before I even begin my Titanic, and I would have missed so much without this information. Thanks Evan. Okay. Some preliminary stuff.... This was my work station for my Academy 1/400 Titanic. All building, and the limited painting I did, was here. Not exactly conducive to the Trumpeter 1/200 version. My new workstation for the Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic. The pool table is being sequestered for a few years. That's fine. We didn't play much anyway. The son-in-law helped me carry the 4x8 plywood in yesterday. Originally purchased for the electrician to install the pool table light fixture. Stowed in the garage since. Spidey senses must have known there'd be a use for it again. The task lamp is the same one as with the small table. I just drilled a 1/2" hole in the plywood for it. Now it's interchangeable, as I will still be using the small work station. On the left, I put the binder together just yesterday and today. Some inspiration from Evan, again, on that, but I give myself credit as well for recognizing this need. Throughout my entire working career, I have always been about organization. It's half of it. Even as a Deckhand, organization was key. An organized and clean deck is a good working deck. Same goes for building models, I figure. The book on the right was recently purchased online and just arrived today. I'm optimistic this will be a valuable resource toward my build. A closer view of the "build binder". Not sure what else to call it. I'm an older salt, and thus somewhat old school. Digital pictures and screenshots are fine to a point. But, for the most part, I like the physical copy in my hand. Much (probably most) of what is in this binder are digital screenshots. Anyhow, lots going on with startup. My new Airbrush Station. The new airbrush kit just arrived today! And one more pic for now. One problem with the Spray Booth venting is insulating the gaps at the window. Been pondering this for days now (the Spray Booth arrived last week). Stuffing bubble wrap in the gaps proved to be a Mickey Mouse solution. Got the idea of foam in my head as a solution. Placed an order for some poly foam yesterday. It's coming from the US, however, so a solid resolution here might be awhile. Suggestions are welcome. Anyhoo, that's it for now. Lots more to come. I've ordered five after market kits for the model, none of which have arrived as yet. My first approach to the model itself will be addressing the hull. No brainer there, I suppose, but in particular, how to approach the hull inaccuracies and porthole inaccuracies. Regarding the portholes, I came across a tip on Gene Davis' FB page (the title of which is too lengthy to repeat) that I most likely will go with. I like it. I don't plan on using the LED lighting kit for my model and this tip appears to me to be a great option for the portholes for those modelers not doing the LEDs. Stay tuned. In the meantime....suggestions are welcome. Thanks for looking and cheers, Mark
  9. After my failed attempt at the 1:700 scale Dragon Z-39 I poked around the interwebs and found a site that presented skill levels in their reviews. ‘CyberModeler Online’ is a very nice review source. <sarcasm>Surprisingly</sarcasm>, the Dragon kits are ‘Expert’. But, the Academy Graf Spee kit I bought concurrently was a ‘Beginner’ kit. I've been lurking this site for about a year. It has kept my interest in the hobby going. So, here I go again!!! I’m going to model her as she was while ‘showing the flag’ just before WWII. She, and her captain, were caught out by the start of WWII. It is not likely a good thing to be in the wrong hemispheres (both of them) as an unescorted cruiser against the world’s best and largest navy. Her crew applied many hasty, at sea, camouflages – some of which are cool. I really like the brush painted bow wave she sported on her final sorties, but I don’t know if she also sported the fake second funnel at the same time. Regardless, she did not take fire till the Exeter, Ajax, and Achilles plinked her at the Battle of River Plate. Thus, she probably should not be heavily weathered, and she had been well cared for. That means just two main paint colors and no camo pattern. I’m going to whale this one a little bit. I mean, I paid for her a year ago so any mullah spent now just seems like a justifiable new kit purchase. I’ve never used 3D printed parts but I think working those in will be easy and effective. I could not imagine bending PE for all those secondary guns. The Eduard PE will be used for railings and for some easy PE stuff – I did OK with the Z-39, but it was difficult. The plastic rails provided in the kit provide a nice and easy template for the PE. Regretfully, the Eduard PE doesn’t have the ‘CORONEL’ plaque that was placed on the superstructure while the WEM PE does – but the Eduard instructions are derived from the Academy kit instructions and I’m thinking that will make things much easier for a noob like me. I have never tried a wood deck, but there is no time like the present and the Artwox deck seems to fit no fuss, no muss based on build threads I have read. And, I’m going to ‘nope’ on porthole covers and whatever – I want to have a win here. Another thought for the more skilled and ambitious. There is a really cool photo out there where the Graf Spee is anchored near the HMS Hood and Resolution for the coronation of King George VI in 1937. I think that will require back dating her secondaries since she was refit to include the below aftermarket secondaries in 1938. Look at this beautiful photo: If any of you see anything amiss, please comment. I have yet to click the ‘Buy’ button and will probably not do so for a couple of days. I am planning on using Squadron.com for the purchases. If anyone has better sources please inform me. They seem ok though. Aftermarket: Item Cnt Manufacturer Part No Main Guns/Turrets 1 Micro Master MM1743P 8x1, 150mm SK C/28 Kit Provided 3x2, SK C/33 Twin 105mm Dopp.LC/31 2 Black Cat Models AC350071A 4x2, 37mm FLAK SK 30 Twin, Dopp Mount 1 Black Cat Models AC350068A 10x1, 20mm FLAK C 30 2 Black Cat Models AC350064A Artwox Wood Deck 1 Artwox AW10049 Eduard 1 Eduard 53050 Paint: Color Hellgrau 50 (light gray) Vallejo Model Color 990 (light gray) Hellgrau 51 (dark gray) Vallejo Model Color 905 (blue gray pale) Happy Hunting and Pray for Me...
  10. Here I go again! Having finished the ‘Mayflower’ with some difficulty I needed some more occupational therapy! In January of 1972 we found ourselves on the SS Canberra. My family and I were sailing from Southampton to Sydney. Our eldest son was eight years old at the time and to remind him of the boat we bought an Airfix model kit of the Canberra which we thought that he might build at a later date. Time went by and the Canberra kit joined the ‘Mayflower’ and went into ‘storage’ with the ‘Mayflower’ for the next 50 years. They travelled from Brisbane to Wellington to Germany with us and now, with my grown up son’s permission, I’m starting to try to build the SS Canberra! This build log will describe my problems and solutions (if any) with the build. As others have already commented, the kit was not very well made so features in the polystyrene are not often clear and pieces do not seem to fit too well sometimes. This time the first step that I took was, after washing the parts, to spray everything with a white undercoat! I soon found that the major difficulties with the build were going to be with the painting of the individual parts and applying the transfers (decals). As I found with the ‘Mayflower’ my hands were not too steady and I did have some problems masking and painting some small parts. The windows were a nightmare (see later).
  11. As I move into retirement (and the peasants rejoiced) I had wanted to spend some time focusing on rigging. Well, I was given this Heller Victory with the hull pretty much done. The backstory was the gentleman had passed away and this was picked up in an estate sale for next to nothing. His work was superior and once I saw the hull I decided this was a good subject for my goal. There was the inevitable broken components but that was largely confined to the royal masts and (of course) the jibboom. The accompanying box of parts was incomplete but I have another 1.5 of these in the stash (bit of a story there). I would have done some things differently (like the deck isn't painted) but for what I was going to use if for and for actual looks that was fine. I have a friend that already has asked to have it upon completion for his library at home, which is perfect. I have dissected the plans and have defined each and every line so am over that hump. I did notice some differences to actual practice. I have a set of the plans that Longridge uses in his book (thank you Uncle Leo) and have defaulted to that presentation where practical. For example the foremast stays did not include the Breast Backstay so I am adding that. Not going crazy or over the top but where it makes sense will make those changes (for example, will use the supplied plastic blocks). I looked through my stash of 'rigging' line and have chosen to use 6 types. The Heller supplied line is white and didn't want to dye. So this morning after getting the remnants of the broken pieces removed and things prepped, went ahead and primed the necessary replacements. I am using Vallejo acrylics. It will be interesting to see how close I can get to the existing yellow shade. I should be working on this at least 2 days a week at a minimum. My first task is to scratch some open and closed hearts for the fore and main mast stays. These seem pretty iconic and need to be there but aren't included in the kit. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  12. Hello All, Yes I have another viking ship build going on here too, a vintage wooden kit. I also have this plastic kit in progress. I'm really a plastic guy...nearly all my modeling experience has been in styrene. This one presents a unique challenge because it's a material I'm most familiar with but I'm tasked with making it look like an entirely different material! This has been difficult so far, but I think I'm getting the hang of some techniques that might work. I can't claim to have thought up the methods, only that this is my own attempt. The Revell Germany kit has good...if a tad heavy...wood grain and texture molded into this kit. The base brown color is useful in some circumstances but I do wish they had mixed up the molding color a bit. I started experimenting on the main (only) deck with some Vallejo acrylics several years ago when I started the kit. It got boxed up for a couple moves until I played around with some artists oil paints on it today. I sanded the acrylic base (the color was a buff or tan of some sort) to reveal some of the darker wood grain below. Using dabs of Ivory Black, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White, along with some linseed oil, I was able to work some color and variation into the existing acrylic base. I then just wiped it off to lighten and reveal some of the lighter graining below. I was careful to get some good darks deep into the recesses molded into the deck as well. Overall I'm pleased with the outcome thus far. Thanks for looking.
  13. I'm going to try and do a build log as I go, I set up this post vs. piggyback off Bill97's excellent Build. I just placed an order from True North Paints (enamel like Model Masters) , once I get those in I'll be able to pick up the pace a bit. Since I'm doing this for a client, I'll need to work as directed, one side will have the cannons extended and one side will have the ports closed (they can turn it when they like). I'm going to strip the paint off the stern and probably remove the fish and redo the wood grain detail (client is undecided as of now and understands there is no information either way on the matter). I'll also need to figure out if I'm going to use the stern gun ports. I've ordered the Parrell rollers needed for the yards, I'm researching the correct blocks needed, the small ones in the kit are strange. My reference is the "Rigging and Masting of 16th. century ships. The deck detail technic I used came from "How to Build Plastic Ship Models" by Kalmbach. Base coat flat black, let dry 24 hrs. then topcoat in your choice of tan/browns, I perfect Testors Armor Sand due to being light enough to detail the caulking on the planks and still give a dark water wash. I've also pre-prepped the deadeyes and other various parts in a basecoat of flat black.
  14. Hello fellow builders and lurkers, Though not quite new in modelbuilding, this is my first ever 18th century sailing ship. I am using Boudriot's 74 gunship as reference but I mainly try to get a feeling for the technics used for the scale and what I can and can't do. The build will be slow because I will try to not burn myself out on it. First of all, I used to colours that Heller suggested, but I am open to suggestions! The carriages are in the red that Heller sugests I cleaned the gunbarrels after I painted them, Maybe next time I'll do it before. I decided to divert from Heller's sugestion and painted the guns black and add a bit of gunmetal with drybrushing, still not sure if it looks okay Guns, Guns, Guns And Carriages The guns completed, only the small caliber has no drybrush In Boudriot's work I found the way the cannons are rigged. I think that on this scale the small blocks, tacks and cables are maybe not realy necessary but I did try to do some fitting for the heavy ropes. Not sure if this is the way to go. Again I am open to suggestion Cannon with rigging Next, I tried my hand on etching some planks in the lower deck. I am thinking of adding some interior instead of only the heavy guns. It is absolutly not my best work, but it was my first try on a place that is not clearly visible in my final work. I also braided the cables for the anchors, just to do something different. Etched deck and dryfit So, this is all I did last month, just to give you an idea about how slowly I am going . Tips and sugestions are more than welcome! Kind regards
  15. Hello. It's been a long time. Many years ago as teenager I played into rather forgotten now PC video game Enigma Rising Tide which was arcade style game about what-if WWII naval scenario. Even in such time I was suprised when I saw strange-looking escort vessel looking like highly modified Flower class corvette with anormally looking pyramid of aa guns platforms, serving in German Navy. Due to fact that most vessels in such game were purely fictious or very highly modified vessels from real world countries I was almost sure that such ship was just imagination of developers. However I was wrong. Such ships really existed although their names were different as same as their first owner. Four French built Flower class corvettes were captured in 1940 in French yards and after long reconstruction three of them entered sevrice in Kriegsmarine. Their service was rather short but very active and all of them were destroyed in days after D-Day. They were reconstructed as AA escort ships with minesweeping capabilities, their French armament was removed and instead were armed with 1*I 105mm gun, 2*I 20mm guns 2*IV 20mm guns, 2*II ( or 1*I and 1*II ) 37mm guns. http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/GALLERY/German/PA2-1.jpg PA-2 on photo. Maybe I'm blind but setup of 37mm AA seems as 1*I and 1*II. Flower class corvettes have such funny looking shiluettes and were rather popular subject among manufacturers with many kits availaible on market. However there is small problem. French Flowers were akin to first ships of this class what means different forecastle, much shorter than made with plastic kits. However I found card model of HMCS Agassiz by Polish publisher Modelik which depicts Flower in very early variant in scale 1:100 and has really amazing level of details. I rescaled some of pages into 1:144 and decided to merge such parts with HMCS Snowberry by Revell. I like this ships so it's most probably not only vessel from such class which I want to build. Original HMCS Snowberry or pink painted HMS Anchusa are strong candidates for second Flower. There is little source for such unique version so many work will be probably based on solutions known from other ships in such era. Most of info comes from such site http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/PROFILE/German_Flower.htm Years ago I made such ship in 1/350 from Mirage Hobby kit but there is little comparison due to size. Box is BIG and it's not marketing trick. I bought also wooden deck for such ship but not sure did I use them as German Flowers most probably never wore wooden deck. Decks are cut into parts. Midship section as same as big parts of superstructure will be taken from rescaled xero of Modelik HMCS Agassiz. Parts of xero will be moved into polystyren sheets of various thickness. AA guns will be 3d printed AA guns from Polish manufacturer Modelhobby. Sides are corrected to the short forecastle variant. As shape I used Agassiz parts. Not sure about ASW and minesweeping gear but most probably I make 6 single drop chutes, 3 per side and 4 deph charge throwers, 2 per side as areformentioned photo suggest such thing. Last thing. My 1/144 coastal submarines collection. I definitely must make something from surface. List of them: 1.British submarine HMS Holland 1 - first sub of Royal Navy 2. Austro-Hungarian submarine SMS U-10 from German U-boot Type UB-1 class, 3. Imperial Russian submarine Delfin, one of first Russian submarines ( torpedoes are mounted on specific mounts called Drzewiecki drop collars ( used mainly on French and Russian submarines, with few examples in other countries ), 4. Type IIB U-Boot U-23. Combat boat of famous highest scoring WWII submarine ace Otto Kretschmer. This boat in 1942 was moved in really interesting journey via land and Danube river into Romanian base and operated against VMF. Whole 30'th U-Boot Black Sea Flotilla scored some hits on soviet mostly smaller vessels. All six boats were sunk by soviet air raids or scuttled near Turkish coast after Romania and Bulgaria change of sides. 5. Type XXIII U-Boot U-2336. Last naval action of WWII in Europe when such boat sunk two allied merchants. Last one was sunk literally few minutes or hour before armistice. First three are from small Ukrainian manufacturer Mikromir, which make plenty of submarines in various scales, often less known or prototypes. Type IIB is from ICM while Type XXIII is from Trumpeter. Collective case for "coastal" boats.
  16. I have started on the hull of course and the first thing was to drill out the portals along the sides of the hull.The next step was to examine for ladders up and down the hull these were necessary for duties and maintenance to the hull.I found while doing the IJN Heavy Cruiser Chikuma that these ladder's add alot of detail to the hull giving it that 3D look.The problem is I have no 1/200 scale ladders but my 1/350 matched to the width that Trump put on the sides I am figuring they equal to about 18" width good enough for a man to work it took me 1 hr for the first set the longest set the rest with experience will be replicated quicker.The ones that Trumpter had embossed on the sides of the hull were so faint one would never of noticed them.I feel I am getting a bit long winded here all about ladders an portals but the IJN loved these ladders they could have 5/8 sets on the capital ships each side the Scharnhorst has three in the stern both sides which most ships have something there.This build I figure may take a year or better depending on time and the attention span.I leave now with a simple pic of the ship when the hull gets it's primer coat I will post a pick..
  17. After visiting Japan in 2019, and searching for a 1/200 plastic model of HMS Dreadnought, I discovered that the only remaining pre-dreadnought was still laying there, open to visitors. I found the kit at a reasonable price and ordered the Pontosset from Australia. The aim of building this kit is mainly to practice the extensive use of photo-etch in order to make a stunning model of the Bismarck. I finaly started this build, painting the underdeck bulckheads Insigna White and the floor Dark Green. Then joining the two hull halves, the bulckheads and underdeck together. Kind regards,
  18. C.S.S Alabama, Revell 1:96 85-5621, is my next model now. I found it on Ebay. Two Men O' War were going to be my ladder to experience. After thinking it over, my time would be better served with a greater challenge. I can give the two other model kits away to a kid who wants to get started in ship model building. I bought these two books to get started with: CMS Alabama: Builder, Captain, and Plans by Charles Grayson Wolf of the Deep: Raphael Semmes and the Notorious Confederate Raider CSS Alabama by Stephen Fox What is the difference between CSS and CMS? So, the plan is to build three 1/96 scale plastic models after finishing Charles W. Morgan whaler. CSS Alabama, USS Constitution and then Cutty Sark before my first wooden kit.
  19. I am 89 years old and have never built a boat before! I used to make plastic kit planes when I was a boy. In the very early 70s I was given a damaged Revell kit by mother in law who worked with an insurance company. The kit was returned as part of an insurance claim. The box was stored and resurrected this year. I took one look at it and put it away! It looked far too complicated and difficult to make! I was encouraged to try to make it as an occupational therapy project by my daughter! Only Revell pieces were used except for four hooks that I made from wire. The pictures and comments that follow document my build. I had some fine forceps and a few old dental instruments that I was given many years ago. Some pieces were damaged, the ‘sails’’ were broken and some pieces were missing.
  20. Hello. I have been inspired to pick up on my long ago started Cutty Sark. I started this one in roughly 1987-1988 right after I finished the Revell USS Constitution. It didn't take long for me to get burnt out on after doing the Constitution. It has been packed away ever since. It has survived 2 marriages and several moves. Fortunately I wasn't very far along on it, and it was able to fit back in the box, even with the hull halves glued together. After unboxing it again only one broken leg on the foremasts second section. Not to bad for having been unloved for years. I have read the following build logs a couple of times to pick up ideas and tips. Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96 Cutty Sark by Kevin-the-lubber - Revell - 1:96 Cutty Sark by bcochran - Revell - 1/96 Cutty Sark 1/96 Cutty Sark by VitusBering - Revell - 1:96 - Redux Cutty Sark by Bill97 - FINISHED - Revell Here is where I am restarting from. I have already started to rework the foremast. I am also working out how to lower the main deck, if it's even feasible. I was the recipient of another kit that had been started a few years ago so I have it for experimentation. The rest of the kit isn't usable the decks are horribly warped and the masts are assembled very poorly. But have plenty of spares of everything else. I have also picked up the most recommended books I have seen listed. I will probably have plenty of questions. And my naval terms knowledge is not very good. But I do port from starboard (I think). Looking forward to getting in deep with this. Thanks for looking. Tom W.
  21. I'm sure you have heard of this kit before, as it is pretty common. This is the Revell 1/50 Viking Ship, intended to be loosely based on the Gokstad ship. However, my copy of this model is a lot more special than the ordinary thing, because it has a great backstory. You see, the pastor of my church and personal friend, David (The recipient of the racing yacht David Lewandowski) went to Poland on a mission trip there, to aid the Ukrainian refugees. While he was there, he and his family did some buying of souvenirs from Poland, for various people. And, well, he came across a 1/50 viking ship kit. Suffice to say, i was absolutely thrilled that he thought to grab it. The box was kind of beat up, but the kit itself was intact. As you probably know, we're going to do a little "sprucing up" of the base model. Thus begins the build log.
  22. The plastic kit is H-330 1972 New box, bought off of Ebay. I washed it with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it in warm water. Debating on whether to glue the some part together before spraying Surface Primer L Gray, or, spray on the spruce first.
  23. Hello everyone,I have started to work on My New Prinz eugen Model. That was given to me as a gift. I begin by Painting the hull in a grey coat. Then with Tamyia AS-26 for the main hull, The keel is painted with XF -9 Hull Red with 5 drops of X -7 red.
  24. Iam working the 1.350 tripitz so far I got some of the hull in paint. iam doing the paint job from 1940 to 1941here some pic .just getting ready to paint the bottom. Comments are always welcome
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