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  1. I visited The National Museum of the Royal Navy Hartlepool to have a look around HMS Trincomalee which is a Royal Navy Leda Class sailing frigate built shortly before the end of the Napoleonic wars. It is well worth a visit. Part of the reason for the visit was to look at the rigging to see if I could improve my methods in readiness for my next project which will be the HMS Indefatigable. I am fully aware that the Indy is a different class of ship to the Trincomalee. Also the Trincomalee, being a museum exhibit, has undergone a lot of restoration work. . I took plenty of photo's of various aspects of the rigging (and belaying) and it quickly became apparent that there were plenty of things I could do which would yield better results. With that in mind, and knowing it will be a couple of weeks before the Indy kit is released, I thought I would experiment to see what I could do better. When looking at the following photo I noted that the rope used to seize around the block had been served. I also noted that just have much more the rope was seized compared with what I would normally do. I decided that using a served rope around a block was not something I was going to replicate. I did however try extend the amount of thread seized and I also ensured the seizing extended past the cut ends of the thread. In the two pictures below I used 0.25mm natural thread which was seized using unwaxed Semperfli Spyder thread. I used grey spyder thread at one end and black spyder thread at the other. I think the grey looks better with the natural thread. I am going to order and try some differ spyder thread colours as there is a nice looking brown spyder thread which I think will be a mch better option. In the following two photos the seizing consisted of alternate half hitch knots 16 on the bottom and 16 on the top. I probably could have added a few more to extend the seizing even further which is something I will experiment with over the next couple of weeks. I have also attached some more photos of blocks which I will try to replicate over the next few days. In the next photo the bottom block required a thimble adding to the bottom of the block. In this photo the bottom block is secured to the hull via an eyebolt arrangement,
  2. I want to buy assorted items for my current build (1:80) but I still can't figure out how to measure my dead eyes and blocks (and cannon and wheel and bell and lifeboat, etc) Do i measure the long side or the short? thickness or length might be a better way to say it for the blocks. do i measure across the circle for the dead eye?
  3. Dear friends, I proud to let you know that we are completely renewed and run new version of our site - ShipWorkshop.com Whats new: Redesigned "Shop" with credit/debit card processing as well as payments via PayPal; Our "News" implemented as blog where we can communicate with our customers showing them product design changes as well as just put some useful info in; Redesigned "Downloads" section where you may find printed/video guides how to assemble and use our tools. We still provide some services for modelers like: Complete ship reconstruction, Design the hull, Model construction and custom tools design for your need. You may "Contact" us filling the form or just drop us email.
  4. I am building the Mantua Albatros Art 771 kit from the 1980s. I am trying to create a belaying plan for the ship. The main mast is simple, but the fore mast is quite complex. The Mantua plans show only the basic standing rigging, and show none of the running rigging. I have eleven books that discuss sailing ship rigging, including the standards Steel, Lees, Biddlecombe, Lever, etc., but these describe full square-rigged ships and are mostly useless for deriving a schooner rigging and belaying plan. After detailed discussions of how to rig the lines on the masts, spars and sails they all finish by saying the line "runs to the deck." I do have several books that talk specifically about schooner rigging (Petersson, Underhill, Leather, Hahn, Marquardt). Most of these also say to run the line "to the deck" or "to the rail." Again, no help. Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft" shows the belaying plan for a topsail schooner, and is the best reference I have found, but it doesn't describe the variations found on different ships. Underhill's "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" has far and away the best an most detailed discussion of ship rigging I have found, but it is mostly for full-rigged ships, with only a brief discussion of schooners. Marquardt's "Global Schooner" has good detail about rigging but it also says the lines run "to the deck." Leather's "The Gaff Rig Handbook" is nearly useless, having no useful index and focusing mainly upon 20th century racing yachts. So I have been left to my own devices to figure out how to belay the fore mast rigging. I am using two assumptions. First, lines coming down from purchases close to or on the mast lead down to ring bolts or fife rails at the base of the mast (or pins, cleats or spider bands on the mast), and lines running from the yard arms run down to the pin rails or cleats on the bulwarks or to ring bolts in the waterways near the bulwarks. Second, lines from lower purchases lead forward, and lines from higher positions lead aft. The idea is to avoid crossing lines. Here is my working plan: As you can see, there are 35 running rigging lines coming down from the foremast (not counting studding sails!). The base of the mast seems a bit crowded with 21 standing and running lines attached to ring bolts in the deck and pins in the fife rail. To achieve this I had to run the fore course bunt lines and clew lines outboard to the pin rails even though they lead from the lower top and the quarters of the fore course yard. I would appreciate comments and corrections from those who understand belaying better than I do. NOTE: I expect that as I start rigging the mast I will to have to reorder some of these positions to eliminate fouled lines.
  5. Hi everyone With me getting more and more into this hobby i find myself not liking the ropes that usually come with the kits. Thats why i have been looking into purchasing one of Domanoff's rope walking machines. My only question, if anyone in here already has one, is: do they already sell the strands in those spools, or do we need to rewind them in the same ones that come with the machine? Also if anyone has any photos of how do the finished product look using those machines, i would gladly like to see them! Thank you very much
  6. Dear Fellows, I have difficulty to interpret the "fish hook-number" written by hand in many numbers of the inventory attached. I 'd appreciate your help to proceed my build of the af Chapman cutter. best regards cotrecerf
  7. I am new to MSW but involved with model ships professionally for years. I was a curator of model ships at a major maritime museum and appraised them for both Sotheby's and Christies. I have a 100 year old Yangtze River gunboat junk of the type that was made for the tourist trade in the 1930's. I am trying to figure out where the foresail rigging lands on the deck as there are no indications of holes for eyes. There are two capstans astride the mast, and the partners on either side of the mast have part on top that protrudes and has no discernable function aside from a place to secure lines. As a side note, I have a quantity of very fine French linen thread and I wonder what they are worth.
  8. Hi. I'm trying to date a historical map, and it has been suggested that someone on this forum might recognise particular features of ships drawn on the margin (see below) which might pin the dating down to a particular decade of the 18th century. The map itself (of part of the south coast of England) is very sketchy, and what seems to be an even sketchier copy of it in the same archive collection has accounts scribbled on the back dated 1750. I'd be interested to know the likely occupation of the depicted ships too. Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions! Stephen (on Twitter @docuracy)
  9. I find myself continually bumping up against my ignorance. I feel pretty good about getting my masts assembled to be straight. Now I'm adding the various blocks that will be part of the running rigging. There are a number of blocks - see picture below - that are attached to the one mast or the other between the cross trees and the cap. I cannot make out what knot to use to properly attach those blocks to the mast. Can I please get some advise on how to rig these blocks in an authentic way? Thanks, Rich Klecker
  10. Hi everyone! Im new to ship modeling and i recently started my first ship, the AL Bon Retour. I have looked a lot of information up in this forum (you guys are amazing) and in others. Im hoping, once the ship is done, to upload the final producto for you guys to see. Im at the point where the hull has been planked and painted over, and im moving to rigging. This has proven to be very challenging, since AL kits dont usually come with a lot of pictures, and understanding the diagrams for a novice like me is taking me some time. I have a question. There are some "blocks" on the mast of this boat which lines loop around and apply tension to. I will attach a picture so you will know whatim talking about. My question is how do i do them. I know i need to "file" the mast to the appropiate width. Do i work around filing? Do i just prepare a piece of wood and glue it with PVA? I need some advice. And sorry for bad english
  11. After many months I am now at the point of putting masts on the model and I can't make myself get started. I'm building AL's L'Hermione. I have cut and tapered the masts, they're painted and some of the blocks are installed. The AL instructions for this portion of the build are very abbreviated - read just pictures, no descriptions at all. The picture show the details for the individual masts and then it shows the masts assembled and ready to be placed into the hull. As I think about how I would assemble an entire mast I begin to wonder how that mast can be built to be straight and the individual masts properly aligned with each other. I've searched through the many contributions on this and related topics. It seems like there is a strong preference by many to install individual masts, attach the relevant standing rigging and then move up the mast; mast, then top mast, then topgallant mast. My concern with this approach is that as you work up the mast assembly you start working "in the air" with fewer and fewer reference points regarding alignment and plumb. Can I please get some help or guidance about how to proceed here. I need a push. Thanks
  12. Hello all, Just recently joined this excellent ModelShipWorld website and have a 'beginner's question'. I'm about to start the masts and rigging on my Dallas 1815 Cutter (my first build) and I recall reading somewhere that it can be a good idea to make a dummy deck first. The idea being to put the masts on the dummy deck (plank of wood) and do all the rigging etc on it, and then transfer the lot to the real deck. That would prevent accidental damage to fittings etc on the real deck whilst I fumbled about with rigging. Or should I just 'get on with it' and put the masts straight into the real deck and do the rigging there? Any thoughts? Regards and thanks, Richard
  13. Hello, I'm 3D modelling the Black Pearl and I'm struggling to find any good reference on how the masts are supposed to be rigged. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  14. Can anyone recommend this book by David Antscherl? I am building the Winchelsea by following Chuck’s great instructions. It is my mind to look into the feasibility of rigging (at least to the main tops) this ship. Any help will be appreciated. I see the publishers also offer the plans and I was wondering if these include details of the mast’s, spars etc? Thank you.
  15. I am working on a kit from Corel of the HMS Victory. I started the standing rigging. I installed the Shrouds on all three masts. The ship then went on the back burner for about six months. When returning to the model to continue I found that the shrouds were sagging and loose. I tightened up on the dead eyes but now they are too close and uneven. So I am going to remove the shrouds and start fresh. My question is, do I need to stretch the rigging cord beforehand and if so what is the preferred method for this. Thanks, Dave.
  16. Hello all! I’m having great difficulty with this concept and am wondering if anyone has a solution? Essentially, I need to strop double blocks for rigging the cannons on my ship, but I am rather confused as to what happens to the end of the line. It seems like it is supposed to feed back into itself? That seems a little beyond my capabilities, but I’m very curious to see what others do. It’s something that’s so common, I don’t see the actual process mentioned very often, nor do I see it detailed much at larger scales. At a smaller scale, it’s a lot easier to give the illusion of a properly stropped block, but at this scale I am at a loss for how to proceed. Any help is greatly appreciated! Here are a couple pictures to illustrate what I mean. (I know, the last picture is definitely not the best way of doing it, right?)
  17. Dear All, I proud to present my new PL4 series rope making machines. How to operate on YouTube Full details on ShipWorkshop.com Basic features 2-, 3- or 4-stranded; With/without the core; Plain laid or cable laid; Left or right lay. Series members PL4-3: 2, 3 strands, no core; PL4-4: 2-4 strands, with core. PL3.2 successor; Choosing the right machine Please consider followings choosing the machine: PL4-3 makes 3-strand ropes and cables little bit better and easier than PL4-4. 4-strand ropes are rarely used on models and can be made using another tool like our VR series rope making machines. BR, Alexey
  18. I have the usual suspect textbooks: Lee, Marquardt, Zu Mondfeld, Davis. They have mast and yard length and diameter formulae for a number of nations but not Spain (except for Zu Mondfeld but his information is prior to the Napoleonic era and so not helpful .... Spanish spar formula probably changed with the surveyor). With the exception of the periods when the Spanish used English or French methods, is there a source of these formula? My books in Spanish, which I do not naturally read, all appear to provide information on Spars for actual ships (Frigate and above) and that just won't help me mast a brig though I do intend to work backwards and create formula that might be relevant to a brig. On the subject, a general book with Spanish plank sizes, hammock stancions, etc. would really help as well. I have several books by Enrique Garcia-Torralba Perez, books of photos of Museum ships, and a lot of original Royal plans and diagrams (many of which appear in said books as well), so that is how I have been picking up details but I really miss having sources like Goodwin and Lee. TYVM in advance!
  19. Well, after researching as much as I could from the many contributors to this and other forums regarding how cannon should be rigged I made the call. For the main deck 6-pounders I went with breaching lines and frapped block and tackle. I made the choice to coil a small amount of line at each side of the gun rather than try to have all the line taken up with frapping. Unfortunately I went with french coils next to unfrapped block and tackle on the 10 cannons that are visible on the gun deck. I guess I'll just need to direct any inspecting admiral to the gun deck as quickly as possible. I had used zip seizing on the block and tackle on both decks. That worked well and looked okay on the 12-pounders that didn't have frapped lines but it would have been better - and easier - to leave that seizing off the rigging that was going to be frapped. I think the look on the main deck is more of a ready-for-action look than the coiled lines. I plan to bend sails to some of the yards and have some furled or perhaps on clewlines. My hope is to give the appearance of a ship at sea rather than at anchor. Richard Current Build: AL L'Hermione
  20. Gentlemen, I am working on a Revell 1:96 scaled plastic model kit of USS Constitution (Kit # 85-0398). Somehow, according to instruction manual, the number of eyebolts needed seem to be way more than what came in the kit. And then I lost a couple while trying to pick up with forceps. They just jumped out of the grip and evaporated in thin air. So, I was wondering if there was any place I could call and purchase a set/packet or something. They are soooo tiny !!! At one point I thought I would make some from the plastic sticks remained after I took out the real parts. But that would be too time consuming and not always accurate. I have already called Blue Jacket, but they only have brass fixtures. Revell is no help. They just washed their hands off it, saying that they are not processing any spare parts orders for "Old" plans from "Revell - US". I'd appreciate any suggestions.
  21. I hope to rig my Revel 1/96 USS Constitution. I purchased 120 feet of Syren rope in three sizes (.012, .018, and.035) in dark brown, light brown and tan to represent Revel's small, medium, and large callouts in their instructions. I never rigged a ship and do not have a clue as to weather 120 feet is adequate, Anyone haven suggestions? Thank you!
  22. MAY 20TH THROUGH THE 24TH 2019 (MON-FRI) BlueJacket's rigging class is a popular event. We run it from 9 to 3 for 5 days (although some people leave early on Friday.) IT IS A CLASS FOR NOVICES. We don't assume you know anything about rigging a ship model. All tools and materials are provided with the class fee of $400. You get a hull to work on, all the sticks and dowels, the glue, blocks, deadeyes, threads, wire, beeswax, and the following tools: Excel hobby knife and blades Pin Vise Assortment of drill bits tweezers needle nose pliers flush cutters cuticle scissors (best for clipping rigging) and probably some other things I forgot If you use magnifiers for your modeling work, you should bring them. By the end of the class you will have learned how to use the tools, tie a multitude of various knots, and will have completed what you see in the picture below: You can see shrouds, backstays, bobstays, gammoning, vangs, topping lift, ratlines, hearts, throat halyard, peak halyard, sheet tackle on a traveler, lifts, braces, forestays, etc. Obviously, we don't waste a lot of time to make the model look pretty! We want to concentrate on the rigging. At the end of the class, BlueJacket will ship your model and materials to your home, again all part of the tuition cost. Monday will include a pizza party for lunch and a behind the scenes tour of the BlueJacket facility. In addition, all students will receive a 10% discount on anything they buy during that week. Kits, tools, books, gift items, you name it! The hours of 9-3 are flexible, we have the hotel conference room available 24 hours a day for the week. If you bring a family member, the 3:00 PM cutoff lets you do some sightseeing around the area. But if you need to catch up a bit, the room is yours! Classes will be at the Fireside Inn in Belfast, 4 miles from BlueJacket on Route 1, tel# 207-338-2090. You can ask for the BlueJacket corporate rate if you choose to stay there. There is a pool and Jacuzzi, exercise room, a decent breakfast bar, and all rooms have an excellent view of Penobscot Bay. If you are the camping type, Searsport Shores is also nearby. Class is limited to 12 people with payment in advance. Full refund up to 2 weeks before, 50% refund up to 1 week before. Unfortunately, cancellation less than a week in advance cannot be refunded except by extreme circumstances, which we reserve the right to determine.
  23. I'm new to this forum and new to model wooden ship building. I'm impressed by the expertise of the many contributors and a bit apprehensive about joining in. Everyone seems to have a good attitude of collaboration, so here goes. I'm building the Artesania Latina Hermione. The hull planking and painting are done and I'm about to install - ship - the ten cannons and carriages that are visible on the main deck. The AL instructions and illustrations show the installation of line that passes through the carriage (breaching line?) and is attached at both ends to the bulwork. As I look through various illustrations of the modern replica Hermione it's clear that there is at least one other rigging set present. That set is a line that passes through a set of blocks and is used for returning the cannon to its firing position. I'm thinking that would be a nice detail to add to my project. But, as I research this rigging a third set is often shown that extends from the rear of the cannon toward the midship line. What is that set for? I rarely, if ever, see that set in other models. Lastly, I'm I right in thinking that the French used a different arrangement than the British for how that breaching line is attached?
  24. Dear friends, I proud to present next version of endless rope making machine (video to come soon): https://shipworkshop.com/products/tools/pl-3.2-endless-rope-making-machine PL 3.2 Endless rope making machine with traverse Fully automated ropewalk with traverse (rope making machine). Minimal control is needed. Basic features PL Endless rope making machine with traverse ("PL machine") is intended for making professional model ropes: 2-, 3- or 4-stranded; With/without the core; Plain laid or cable laid; Left or right lay. What's new: PL = Planetary ropewalk. New version of former ropewalk "Planetary". New traverse unit. New Smart Control Unit v3.0 Endless means extra long result ropes. User manuals: PL Endless rope making machine Smart Control Unit v.3.0
  25. I recently found a complete Heller Drakkar "Osberg" plastic model kit at a vide grenier. It's the version with the lighter yellow Heller panel on the top left of the box, so from about 1971! 5€ seems like a bargain. As was standard, glue and rigging and paint are not part of the kit. l have three questions:- 1.) What glue, other than that currently sold by Heller online is appropriate for this kit? 2.) The notes say use Number 16 thread for the rigging. The inevitable Google search identifies how complex thread description can be. The only ‘16’ I can find is a weight of 16, the equivalent of Tex of 105, denier 950, cotton count of 5 and a metric number 9. Is there a more suitable alternative ? 3.) The major pieces look very shiny. Is there any prep required before painting, other than a light sanding ? 4.) What paint is appropriate for a plastic model of this sort ? Many thanks in advance for your help.
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