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  1. I said when I got the kit that I would start the kit after I got close to the rigging stage on my Pegasus But I made a mistake and thought I'd see how the frames go together ,one thing lead to another so I've almost finished the framing😏😄 Parts are clearly marked and the youtube instructions are ok But some stages are in the wrong order after their editing ,it's also a prototype from the look of it but it is all there ,just needs some going back and forth in the video! The Laser cutting is very fine and precise so little clean up other than cleaning the char and the small nubbins left after their cut from the sheet! When i started I thought it seemed pretty flimsy but once you've fully built the side it's solid! pictures are front on and Starboard frames finished! ,the gun port and entry port framing is separate and are attached to the dowels. link to the whats in the box post
  2. Hello everyone! Well....after 40 years of work, I retired 2 years ago and have been trying to find things to do. As a teenager, I certainly worked on plastic models, with all their glue stings and poorly fitting parts and horrific paint jobs. I remember getting a small Cutty Sark wooden model, with poor instructions and parts that were only printed to wood sheets. Everything had to be cut out and even the hull was a solid block of wood that had to be shaped and sanded....never came close to finishing. Last year I took on a plastic model, Trumpeter's Titanic. It was a massive undertaking and took just about a year to finish. I had to learn how to handle photo etch, a paint gun, the use of CA glue and manipulating teeny, tiny parts. I took most of last summer off in the build as I own a sailboat in upstate NY, USA and that took priority, but I finished her last November or so. Is she a show room piece? Lol, no, but I am very proud of how she looks. I have fairly good wood working skills and can problem solve a lot of things with wood. I love sailing and have always wanted to buy one of those pre-made wooden ships for my office. The ones that cost about $500-$700 USD. Instead, I decided, why not try to build one!!!! I know this kit is VERY hard and having never even tried to build a wooden model or the subsequent issues and tasks concerning rigging, I just wanted to take a stab at it. So I found a kit in stock in the UK through Arrow Models. I ordered her and within about 2 or 3 weeks it arrived in the USA. Arrow did a great job and while I was a bit nervous working with an overseas company where I could find little feedback, they were tops! Great communication and great customer service. There are a few Caldercraft 1:72 build logs on MSW (I see more now as I've learned the search process here) and a few YouTube video logs that I am using. Perhaps (upon my initial search) not as many as some of the other models and kits. I thought I would add a log that is from a person with absolutely NO experience with this type of kit and certainly a kit that requires a high degree of skill or expertise or as is my hope....just the patience and perseverance to gut it through! I've posted a few Titanic pics in this post, I promise going forward it will be all Victory all the time. I just want to see how the posting process works and I will start adding right away. As of Feb 21, 2024 I am on the first planking task, about 5 planks up. So.....I'll see you at the finish line and thank you! Chris Index to My Build Laying out the Keel Mounting the Keel and adding Bulkheads Installation of Middle Deck Dummy Barrel Strips Gun port Patterns First Planking layer Sanding and finishing First Planking Quarter Galleries Deck Planking of Middle Deck Staining/Finishing Deck Planking Second Planking layer Three books every modeler needs
  3. While I’m new to MSW I am not new to model ship building. In my earlier life, I built two period sailing ships: Heller 1/200 L'indomptable and the Revell 1/96 Elizabethan Man ‘O War. Sadly, these did not survive the decades since I built them. My current project is the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While I say ‘current’ my story is similar to that of others in this forum. I bought my kit around about 1984 but a busy career and family life meant the project became an on-again off-again proposition. Clearly, more off than on. I am now retired and motivated to push this project to completion. The hull of my model is mostly complete but the rigging is a whole other challenge and I will need help. And lots of it. Ian Grant, who completed a fabulous rendition of this model has already been immensely helpful to me. A few pictures follow: . I’m told this is a 1st generation kit, C1979. I believe Heller is now into its 3rd iteration. Hard to believe but in 1984 this kit was $CDN180! I am re-doing the bowsprit standing and running rigging since I originally rigged it per the kit instructions. That is simply no longer acceptable 😊 I’m glad I completed most of the finicky painting - aft gingerbreads, balusters, coats of arms, etc. (quoting Billy Joel) “when I wore a younger man’s clothes” 😉 Good news is, while my eyesight isn’t as sharp as it once was, my hand is still pretty steady. I built this temporary enclosure to protect the model while also helping to keep it dust free. It still managed to collect dust! My main work area (I have another for sub-assemblies) looks quite ‘proper’ with the Brown Bess musket on the wall (I fashioned a whole new forestock for it), the contemporary picture of Victory in Portsmouth Harbour and the Victory crest. My wife says it looks like a shrine…and I’m ok with that too 😁 You can tell by this picture of my bar area that I’m all things ‘Nelson’ - the Britannia Triumphant poster, the rum ration cup with Nelson’s image, Nelson’s portrait (I also have a same sized portrait of Lady Hamilton) and the battle line serving tray. Since I was a very young lad, Horatio Nelson has always been my #1 hero. In my adult life I can honestly say I have never missed recognising Trafalgar Day (Oct 21st). Whether in quiet contemplation or a raised glass. Or both 😁
  4. I'm new to MSW and ship building. I have done a lot of modeling over the years. And I have found out that ship building is the 'meat and potatoes', if you will, of modeling. I have lost a lot of my earlier photos of the cannon being built and the hull construction. I followed pete coleman example and others to get ideas for details. Books are needed to build these ship models if you want to even try to be accurate. I'll be submitting a lot of my photos. Many of which will be rather boring but I want to preserve them somewhere other than Facebook. All comments and tips are welcome!
  5. Hi all, New to this forum so please bare with me. I have just started building this Panart 1/78 scale version of HMS Victory and thought I would share my experiences here. I’m retired and live on a Scottish island and needed a new hobby, wooden ship building. Experienced I’m not I would call myself average. This the third kit I have made the previous two both being Caldercraft, HMS Sherborne and HMAV Bounty. Caldercraft kits are great but wanted to build a decent size Victory that didn’t require a bank loan to purchase. Anyway, let’s see where this goes.
  6. Hi Folks, Yet another Victory model under way. My kit was an anniversary present (25 years!) from ‘the Boss’. I first became aware of this model through the pre-issue information in a popular monthly magazine but had to dismiss the idea due to its cost. When it was suggested as a possible gift I didn’t need asking twice. The early stages of this build were originally shown on another website that unfortunately had to close down. I think it only fair to point this out as the rate of progress this build log will initially show will not be truly representative. Progress has been sporadic in the least. To be honest it’s taken me the best part of six years to get to where I am now (planking the upper gun deck) – life, work, other projects etc. all conspire to hold up progress. Initial construction was fairly trouble free, with the exception of an asymmetrical bulkhead 15. Dry assembly showed where the problem was so a new one was fashioned from some scrap ply I had lying around the workshop. The next challenge was drilling the holes in the keel for mounting the model later. I decided to insert 1/8th diameter brass tubes, with ply re-enforcement where needed, and to use steel pins to locate it onto a display base (one day!) To do this accurately it made a drilling jig based on a traditional design I use at work. Chamfering the bulkheads was one task I was not looking forward to, and it was at this point I discovered the value of websites such as this. Black felt pen lines on the back edge of the bulkheads that needed shaping ensured that I did not go beyond the profile. Concerned about how the lower ply gunport patterns would bend around the bow I cut a block of timber to fabricate a press forming tool. A card template was cut to match the shape of the bow and this was then transferred to the top of the block and band-sawed. The double cut design allowed both sides to be shaped at once. The ply was soaked for an hour, sandwiched between the blocks and left clamped for a day. The photo shows the result of a test run using waste from the gunport ply sheets. The strips were still slightly damp and pliable when removed from the former 24 hours later. With hind sight this was definitely ‘over kill’ and I probably wouldn’t resort to this method again, but it did the job! Details of my experiences with the first planking will follow…….. Cheers for now, Charter33.
  7. Hello to everybody. Finally started the long voyage. I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed. I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away. Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not. In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s. I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW. Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic. I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’. If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand. After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort. I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect. I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports. I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage. I decided to put a led in each gunport. I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons. I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect. Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for. I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks. Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off. On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model. I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case. I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through. Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel. Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build. It is going to be a slow start because of the lights. HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed. Prepared a rotating working table for the model. Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table. The table is on wheels as well. Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel. Prepared and numbered the bulkheads. One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired. Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model. Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes. Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force. This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips. I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved. Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine. Started work on the lights. I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires. I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back. This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one. Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up. Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square. The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment. I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first. Installing the lights. The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along. Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way. Robert
  8. Well like many others I will start my log again, what I shall do is post pictures from earlier in the build and try to show its development. Wish me luck. Welcome back every one and good luck with all your builds,. DAVID
  9. Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ...
  10. OK my MSW friends. I am going to need a kick to get me started on my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. I know it is going to be a long and enjoyable process so I have to eventually get started. I got the kit a good while ago but have only removed the plastic wrapper and peeked inside. Meanwhile I continue working on a previous build but see the box containing that beauty setting there in my peripheral vision. I have spent countless hours reading the build log of other Victory builders. That may be part of my reason for delay. Each time I have my mind set on how I want to proceed once I start I see an idea or technique someone has used and think “Wow that is what I want to do!” So I guess my concern is doing something a certain way then later seeing a better way and being disappointed. My initial internal debate is the process used to paint the hull, especially the stern? I think by far the design of the stern and the paint scheme is so distinctive on the Victory. You see it you know it is the Victory! So beautiful! If you are now building, or did in the past, what was your method to apply the black and yellow ochre.
  11. I had this Kit for 22 years, and I didn´t start it because I never felt confident enough to build a plank on frame kit, and additionally, I had the idea that I got the worse kit available in the market till I saw Y.T Victory in another site.
  12. 20th February 2020 I started this build almost exactly 7 years ago (February 2013) but parked it after perhaps 2 or 3 months for a variety of reasons. Every once in a while I’d half-heartedly take another look but, with no end of other calls on my time – a house renovation, a large garden, a family – it was always easier to justify further procrastination. I finally got going again this January 2020 and am enjoying it immensely this time. One of the reasons I parked it, to be honest, was demoralisation - I hadn’t really appreciated what building a 1:100 Victory would entail and there are some very tedious, repetitive tasks from the outset. I think I was probably expecting it to be something like building planes as a child just with more and different parts. Also, the poor Heller instructions had me scouring the web straight away and landing on Pete Coleman’s site, which was both a blessing and a bane. For those who didn’t ever see it, it was like this site, full of examples of truly extraordinary skill and craftsmanship. The trouble was, having seen what I should do, I couldn’t possibly just whack this together straight out of the box, as intended, and that meant hours and hours on small modifications lay ahead. However, it was always parked, not abandoned! I should say from the outset that this is my first go at high quality model-making. Other than helping my progeny with the odd bit of model-based homework I haven’t touched a model kit in perhaps 45 years. I chose the Victory for sentimental reasons, inspired by the books of Patrick O'Brian, not realising that this is probably the Everest of plastic sailing ship models. In fact the intention was that this would be the only kit I’d ever build, it was a project for one wet and miserable winter rather than a hobby. Who knows, that may change by the time I’ve finished the Victory (assuming I ever do). So, the object of this build log is two-fold; it’s partly to share my learning with anyone else in the same position, novice’s taking on this huge challenge; and partly to seek advice, as I go along, from the many experienced, expert modellers on this forum. It may help if I say what I’m aiming for. I’m not too bothered about true historical or nautical accuracy, just want a really nice looking ship at the end of the day. I’m unlikely to spend much if any time adding features below decks that can’t be seen, but I am making the ‘usual’ modifications like hull thickening, the admirals’ entry and altered side steps. It almost goes without saying that I’m constantly looking at the fantastic work of Dafi, Foxy, Bishophobbies and a few others, though I’m expecting my results to be more modest. That's enough of the intro - in a moment I'll start adding build content.
  13. So my first build log. This model was actually a present to my father. He started the model and got as far as completing the frames and orlop deck. But he passes away a few year ago. I recently found his started model. So I will complete it for him. I've been following JeffE build of the same model and will "borrow" some of his ideas. As his build is turning out beautiful. As I model on and off as time and life permits. I'm counting on the knowledge and encouragement of this group to keep me progressing 🙂 So away we go.
  14. As I move into retirement (and the peasants rejoiced) I had wanted to spend some time focusing on rigging. Well, I was given this Heller Victory with the hull pretty much done. The backstory was the gentleman had passed away and this was picked up in an estate sale for next to nothing. His work was superior and once I saw the hull I decided this was a good subject for my goal. There was the inevitable broken components but that was largely confined to the royal masts and (of course) the jibboom. The accompanying box of parts was incomplete but I have another 1.5 of these in the stash (bit of a story there). I would have done some things differently (like the deck isn't painted) but for what I was going to use if for and for actual looks that was fine. I have a friend that already has asked to have it upon completion for his library at home, which is perfect. I have dissected the plans and have defined each and every line so am over that hump. I did notice some differences to actual practice. I have a set of the plans that Longridge uses in his book (thank you Uncle Leo) and have defaulted to that presentation where practical. For example the foremast stays did not include the Breast Backstay so I am adding that. Not going crazy or over the top but where it makes sense will make those changes (for example, will use the supplied plastic blocks). I looked through my stash of 'rigging' line and have chosen to use 6 types. The Heller supplied line is white and didn't want to dye. So this morning after getting the remnants of the broken pieces removed and things prepped, went ahead and primed the necessary replacements. I am using Vallejo acrylics. It will be interesting to see how close I can get to the existing yellow shade. I should be working on this at least 2 days a week at a minimum. My first task is to scratch some open and closed hearts for the fore and main mast stays. These seem pretty iconic and need to be there but aren't included in the kit. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  15. This is my seventh build. I do believe it's above my skill level but for better or worse I'm going to give it a try. I've never done a second planking so this will be interesting. Also, the sheet plans are all in Italian. I've been using the Google translator which works really good. I started using a soldering iron with a jig that I made for the bending of the planks. I've found that water soaking the planks before I heat them to bend work quite well. More photos to follow as I progress.
  16. Hello all, I Just want to announce that I started my HMS Victory build last January, but have only just gotten around to starting this build log, I'll add a few posts over the next few days to bring the log up to speed of where I am currently (78 hours in) with accompanying pictures. Opening the Box, numbering the parts, building the Slip and assembling the keel and the Hull Bulkheads took me to about 21 hours
  17. Hi. David here. I thought I could start a build log in mid progress it that’s okay. I don’t have any photos of my previous work on this, but I’ll start now. I probably should say that this might be more of a “how to avoid mistakes that I made” rather than a “see how good a job I did.” This is going to be a skill building project for me. I know that Victory changed over time so I’m not trying to be perfect but to follow the sources and use my judgement when they disagree or are missing details. I want to make it… well if not completely accurate then at least plausible. And something nice to go on the wall! I also didn’t want to spend a fortune on upgrading it. I grabbed up this kit back in 2007 and set it aside for a while. Eventually I got around to working on it. I followed the instructions in the beginning. I joined the two half frame units, attached the keel and keelson, planked the hold, and added the orlop deck. I then decided it was not very accurate. I put it aside for a time. Around 2019, as I was heading towards retirement, I started getting serious about redoing it and I started my research. Main print sources used so far: · McGowan, Alan P. HMS Victory: Her Construction, Career, and Restoration. Naval Institute Press, 1999. · Bugler, Arthur R. H.M.S. Victory: Building, Restoration & Repair. Her Majesty's Stationary Office, 1966. · McKay, John. The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship). Naval Institute Press, 2000. · Longridge, C. Nepean. The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships. Percival Marshal & Co., Ltd, 1955. · Goodwin, Peter. The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War: 1650 – 1850. Naval Institute Press, 1987. · Lavery, Brian. The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600 – 1815. Naval Institute Press, 1987 · Peter G. Goodwin (2013) The Application and Scheme of Paintworks in British Men-of-War in the Late Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries, The Mariner's Mirror, 99:3, 287-300, DOI: 10.1080/00253359.2013.815993 I also did a lot of searching on the web for photographs and YouTube has several good video tours that helped with a few areas that don’t show well in the plans or in any photographs I had seen. I decided to have the forward edge of the model end with the forward wall of the pump room. I didn’t want to try to open the room to show the pumps. The other edge would end at the orlop deck beam aft of the shot locker. On the McKay plans this would be from about station 1? to about station 8? I will say that the McKay plans scale easily to 1:96 but this model is listed as 1:98. I felt the difference was small enough to work around. I bought some additional walnut wood strips and sheets to supplement what came with the kit since I needed different sizes. Sizes I mention in this are how they were listed by the seller in my order, but the actual materials vary a little bit. I don’t have any power tools other than a Dremel tool with a shaper/router table and a Rockwell Bladerunner for home repairs. They are okay for rough cutting and shaping but not for the fine stuff. The hold. The first thing that I did was remove my previous orlop deck entirely. Next, I removed one plank on either side of the keelson to create the limber passages and covered them with thin limber boards. I traced out templates and used the Bladerunner to rough cut some riders from a 1/8” walnut sheet and shaped them with the Dremel. They are not as tight a fit as I would like. If I had something thicker, I probably would have used it. I built the pump house from 1mm x 3mm strips. I put in a door on the port side even though I couldn't get a good view anywhere to see what it looked like. The platforms are 2mm x 2mm with 2mm wide strips. I’ll detail later with hinges for the shot locker lids along with iron and shingle ballast. I planked the exterior up to the level of the orlop using the kit supplied strips. Orlop Deck I used 4mm x 4mm walnut strips for the orlop deck beams, 2.5mm x 2.5mm for the fore and aft carlings and 1.5mm x 1mm for the athwartship carlings. I tried adding the carlings with the beams in place and leaving room for the deck boards to recess. I used 2mm x 5mm strips for the waterways. It ended up uneven in places. I should have built the deck as one unit before installing it. I didn’t paint the underside of the deck but I probably should have. Probably too late now. I cut knees from the 1/8” sheet. For the pump house on the orlop I used 2mm x 2mm uprights with 0.6mm x 3mm strips. I arranged the strips in a louvered pattern. I wasn’t able to leave a gap between each strip for ventilation so just pretend that they are there. I felt the kit grate was too bulky, so I purchased a grate with 0.6mm holes and cut a piece to size. If my math is right the openings scale to 2.35 inches at 1:98. I framed it with 1mm x2mm strips. Kit grate. Pearwood grate. I painted the sides of this deck and the pump house white.
  18. Hi I joined this forum a few months ago and after reading other ship builds I decided to do one myself. This is my first time doing this and would like any help from other members will be appreciated. I've already stated and I know it is going to take along time.
  19. Hi All, This is my first build, I started it in April 2023. This is the stage it is at. Port side which has had its first sand 24/12/23. Not had any wood fillers applied yet so will need a touch up Starboard side that still needs its first sanding. Hull as you can see Port side has had its first sanding. Top View of middle deck which I stencilled all the floor rather than just a section.
  20. Hallo liebe Community, nachdem ich dieses Forum schon eine ganze Zeit beobachte, habe ich mich entschlossen, nun auch meine Victory vorzustellen. Ich bin noch ziemlich neu in diesem Hobby und habe mir mit der Victory von Caldercraft einen ziemlichen Brocken vorgenommen. Ich habe zwar bereits an einem kleineren Modell geübt, allerdings waren meine Gedanken immer bei dem Caldercraft-Bausatz. Im Dezember 2013 habe ich ihn mir nun gekauft, damit die liebe Seele Ruhe hat. Warum die Victory - ein Schiff, dass bereits 1000 x gebaut wurde? Und das von Menschen, die mehr davon verstehen, als ich. Ganz einfach: ich finde sie schön. Und es gibt jede Menge Fotos - teils vom Original, teils von anderen Modellbauern. Ich habe weder den Anspruch, sie in Museumsqualität zu bauen, noch dem Original in allen Details historisch einwandfrei zu entsprechen. Hierzu fehlen mir die handwerklichen Fähigkeiten, die professionellen Werkzeuge und das Wissen. Ich will sie so gut wie möglich bauen. Und wenn ich auf Fotos und/oder im Internet auf Details stoße, die ich mir handwerklich zutraue, dann werde ich versuchen, es im Rahmen meiner Möglichkeiten umzuseten. Ich freue mich auf eure Anregungen und Tipps. Und los gehts mit dem Rumpf... Moderator translation via Google Translator Hello dear community, after I been watching this forum for quite some time, I decided, now imagine my Victory. I'm still pretty new to this hobby and have made ​​up my mind with the Victory by Caldercraft quite a chunk. Although I have already practiced on a smaller model, but my thoughts were always with the Caldercraft kit. In December 2013 I have now bought it to me so dear soul rest. Why the Victory - a ship that already 1000 x built? And this from people who know more about it than I do. It's simple: I find them beautiful. And there are lots of photos - some from the original, partly from other modelers. I have neither the claim, they build in museum quality, yet the original suit historically accurate in every detail. To this end, I lack the technical skills, professional tools and knowledge. I want as much as possible build. And if I come across photographs and / or the Internet to details that I trust my craft, I will try it umzuseten within my means. I look forward to your suggestions and tips. And there you go with the hull ...
  21. Hello, I am a new member and started to build the HMS Victory. Visited this site very often in the last month for building info and found a lot of great building logs. I had problems finding the right location for the top gunport pattern (270).
  22. Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty 🙂 In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old). I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer! The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room. Enough background, here are the pictures: You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone. I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship! I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale. After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished 🙂 Will need to order lot's more! I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more. I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though): The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord.
  23. Greetings to all. This will be a "sort of build" log of my scratch-built model of the Victory starting in 1991 to present. In the pre-digital photography era the few photos I have were shot with a Nikon 35mm camera. I'm not the most disciplined when it comes to shooting progress pictures. I get so excited about the build that I think there's just a few more things to do before shooting the next pictures. So here's some shots and explanations of my process from the early '90's. Part 1 After the usual research and gathering of plans and photos I decided to build in 1:64 scale, or 3/16th"=1'. A good average house scale. My base plans were taken from John McKay's book "The 100-gun Ship, Victory", and C. Nepean Longridge's "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships". McKay's plans are based on how she would've looked after her 1800-1803 large rebuild prior the Trafalgar. Longridge has more detailed drawings along with structural details of general construction of the period. My original intention was to build this version. After prolonged study the drawings I noticed the original sheer line and rails, still visible today, before the build-up of the bulwarks along the quarterdeck. So back to research for drawings of how Victory looked from 1765-1799 with stern galleries and elaborate carvings. Meanwhile the build still went on for the hull structure. The first step was to enlarge the drawings to 1:64 scale. I enlarged the outboard, inboard, framing, profiles and plan views of the ship then all the frame sections. The keel, stem and stern post drawings as well. Framing and Shaping the Hull I used what is probably a unconventional approach to construction of the hull. Since the "Man of War" has more frames than a merchant vessel, and they almost touch each other, I figured that 1/4' thick frames would be very close for an Admiralty style builders model. All the frame sections were laid out on 1/4" thick birch marine ply and cut on a band saw. I cut 1/4" spacer sections for between the actual frames. These were carefully aligned and screwed together in stacked sections until I had the complete hull. (No photos exist of this phase). I used a 1" Makita belt sander to knock down the stair step frame sides close enough to start block sanding by hand. I forgot to mention you must make sure your frame drawings, before cutting, start amidships facing towards the bow and aft towards the stern post. That way when the shaping starts you are sanding to the line of the drawings for the proper shape. It's like making a pattern or wood buck for a mold. After the hull is shaped and sanded to a finer grit, the next step is to unscrew all the frames and take out the 1/4" spacers. Back to the band saw and cutout all the insides of the frames and notch for the keel indexing. The Keel, Stem and Stern Post Next was cutting out and assembly of the keel, etc. From here it conventional construction with the keel laid upright and plumb on the building board, and frames set in position. I cut frame shaped sections out of the spacers and placed these between the frames at the middle and lower gun deck levels for strength and rigidity. Once everything is glued in position with stringers holding the outside into place, I sanded and shaped the inside of the frames. The Planking All the planking is Basswood used for its very fine grain. For the bow and stern areas I used my wife's tea kettle to steam the planks for the tighter radius bends. Below is the completed planked hull, the cutting down of the bulwarks, The addition of the wales and moldings, upper rails. I made tooling jigs for shaping the moldings. Lower deck 32 pounders are sitting in place. Cannon construction is another project in itself. And of course one must take the motivational paint break to see how things will look.
  24. Hi fellow builders, After 2 years of trying to build the HMS Victory, using the Caldercraft kit I think it's time to show some of my efforts on this forum. I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands, and I regard this as a 10-year project. Building is the fun part, time is of no essence as the fun is much less when the model is finished (speaking for myself). I chose the HMS Victory for several reasons: - The Caldergraft kit is essentially historically correct, although some research is still necessary. - The kit is technically very good, most parts fit without much adjustment - The "original" 1805 Travalgar version of the ship can still be visited in Portmouth and plenty of photo's circulate on the internet, therefore building a historically "correct" model is easier than of many other ships. - Many books can be found on the subject like Longridge, McKay and others. over time I collected a (very) small library on the subject. - There are some build logs of the Victory on the internet of excellent builders, notably Gil Middleton. In some instances my choices differ from theirs, but I will explain my choices as much as possible. In the weeks to follow I wil show the progress so far, which is as far as the 30 cannons on the Upper Gun Deck. Some basic facts about the HMS Victory: The HMS Victory was (and is) the flagship of the English Navy which defeated the combined French-Spanish fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar. Admiral Lord Nelson was mortally wounded during battle by a French sniper, but England won the battle. The HMS Victory is the 5th ship with this name and the largest by far. The ship was ordered in 1758. It is a First Rate Ship with more than 100 cannons. The design of the ship was completely devoted to firepower In 1805 (Trafalgar) ther were: - on the Lower Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 32-pound balls - on the Middle Gun Deck: 28 cannons for 24-pound balls - on the Upper Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Quarterdeck: 12 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Forecastle: 2 cannons voor 12-pound balls and 2 carronades for 68-ponds balls(!!) The total length of the ship is about 70 meter, water displacement more than 2000 tons and almost 5500 square meter of sail can be carried. Some other numbers: 40km rope in the rigging, 1400 blocks, 300 tons of "potable" water, 50 tons of coals, 20 tons of wood, 50 tons of beer, etc. Index First and second planking Wales Gunports Coppering Upper gun deck, cannons and fittings Quarter Deck Forecastle Bow Poop Deck Stern Fascia Quarter Galleries Hull details First an impression of the progress so far. I will try not to bore you with every individual bulkhead and plank. Details will be provided on request (of course).
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