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  1. A sucker for punishment, I decided to give myself something to do while waiting for the glue to dry on the planks of HMS Endeavour. The bulkheads and sub-decks are in place.
  2. My name is Benjamin, 45yo, married, 2 kids (8 and 5 yo), 1 dog, living near to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, patent officer at the german patent office. I´m a novice of shipbuilding. In the youth I made plastic models, mainly jets and helicopters. Some years ago I got the HMS Bounty from Constructo as birthday present. With big enthusiasm I started the frame and then life (job, kids, wife) was steeling time. The frame and the box with the parts moved from one corner to the next... But now I´m willing to restart building the ship. Hoping not to run out of time again. At the moment I´m starting to arrange a proper workplace, collect tools and materials, search for informations of the ship and howto´s. The buildlogs of the MSW-members (espacialy the logs of Steve 12345 and leginseel) helps a lot, to get informations, where I need to pay special attention. When I´m ready to (re)start I will also start a buildlog, to prevent other novice like me, to do the same mistakes. I appreciate, my model won´t win a price, but if I stay the course and finish the ship, I will have learned a lot and the (hopefully) next ship will look better.
  3. Hello, my name is Samuel and this is my build log. This is my very first build, and I am super excited about it. Like I said in my introduction post, I was gifted a wooden kit of the HMS Bounty 1:110 (Constructo) a few years back and never got around to building it because I was scared of messing it all up. Now as I am a little older I started it as an "end of summer project" and I think I am about 3 weeks in and the ship looks good so far. There is still a lot of work to do, and I know I will not be able to complete it before I head back to school in the fall. I plan to post photos of the ship after every addition that I add, and will probably ask a few questions about how to do a particular step(s) and look forward to the day that I can show my friends the work that I put in on this ship. Attached you will see some photos of the ship once i decided to start documenting my work, and you should be able to see a very slight progression as time passed. I will also be posting a photo of the box and ideal finished product. Let me know if you would like any more photos and I will do my best to post them and answer and questions that you all may have for me. Here is the link to my "new member post"
  4. Hello all. I am still relatively new to buillding models and have just completed my first model which was fairly straight forward. However I think I have really upped my game with this one hopefully I haven,t bit off more than I can chew. The reason I picked this one is that Amati have 17 videos on how to assemble on Youtube. I have checked that everything is in the box, although it only gives a list but not how many of each,however it all appears to be there. I have already come across a few issues which were explained in the first video mainly with assembly of the keel , frames, false deck support pieces and false deck. The only problem so far which has caused some thought which although pointed out in the video which was the hole in the false deck for the mizzen mast lines up with one of the bulkheads. Unfortunately the guy on the video does not mention a solution to this problem. Fortunately I believe i have found a way . I will try and post a couple of photos which show how I have done this. I am of coarse assuming that the hole in the deck is accurate.
  5. Hi all. Recently completed the Miss Severn by Legend model boats, but can't yet get it on the water seeing as it is winter here in the great white north. My winter+ project is the Latina 1/48 Bounty. Should look good beside Cook's Endeavour on my display shelves when complete. It's a single plank on frame design with an exposed interior below decks rather than the usual double planking on plywood bulkheads. Created a simple plywood building slip to ensure the hull stays true during construction, and decided to paint the ribs maritime white to provide contrast with all the timber and flotsam that will be on display below decks. Not the walnut finish suggested by Latina but I've seen a museum model done this way and it was a beauty.
  6. ok so here is my first attempt at a build log. I have made the false keel in the process of making the bulwarks ATM it is taking me sometime as this is my first scratch build so going slowly. I am not in a hurry as am retired. looking ahead I went online and purchased some pins and small screws am thinking of trying to make some planking screws. included some pictures need to take some more as I have nearly finished making the bulkheads just one more to do. then adjusting so that they fit square.
  7. Hi First build. Going slowly and try to think thru all the steps.
  8. I bough the book The Armed Transport Bounty which has a lot of good detail for building the Bounty including a table over all rope sizes and blocks. In the table there are detail describing block size and type, but it is confusing to understand which type of block to use. In the beginning I thought H=heart (as you have picture of) and B=blocks, but then there was C, D? Also thought B9=9" block, but that was not correct. Hope someone with more understanding of ship building could explain how this works and what it means, so that I can try to build my Bounty as accurate as practical possible.
  9. I'm guessing that I'm in the position as many other modelers in here, I'm new and the model kit instruction is not very good. So, I've bought a couple of books trying to learn standard rigging and sail for ships to due my rigging on the Bounty. My questions are: 1. Is Slab lines and Bunt lines the same lines just for and back of the sail? On the drawings it look like it. 2. For my both Reef points and Gaskets are doing the same job, tieing the sail together, correct?
  10. Hello all together out there, About ten years ago I've purchased Caldercraft's Bounty kit but stopped the build, my first build log on MSW I, soon after the finish of the second planking. The reason that led to this decision was simple. Meanwhile I've got John McKays book about the Bounty from the Anatomy of a Ship series as well as a copy of the original drawings made on behalf the Admiralty 1787 soon after the purchase of the Bethia. The drawings have had a lot of alterations to modify the ship for survey service in Her Majesty Service that ends up in the famous voyage and the mutiny in the years 1788/1789. A view on McKays drawings and on the NMM's drawings brought to light, that the dimensions of the spares and parts in the kit doesn't really fit and where oversized. Especially the breadth doesn't fit and seems to be 1 foot 8 inch too wide. In the end, I've got frustrated and began another build, the HMC Sherbourne, but this is another story. Unlike the common knowledge about Bligh, Christian and the mutiny, burned in our minds by well entertaining but less historical movie pictures, we do know nowadays that Bligh was not that despot as shown in the movies. Actually, he was one of the best navigators after Cook and a commander with foresight. 2 years later he fulfilled his order to bring breadfruit plants to the West Indies on a second voyage (a less known fact), became captain, fought at the battle of Copenhagen close to Nelson, was honoured by Nelson to be a very brave and proper commander in the battle and became in 1806 governor of New South Wales. This fact does close the circle form the Bounty to my another scratch build, the Schooner for Port Jackson. These ship sailed during the government of Bligh who became Vice Admiral. It is known today that Edward Edwards, commander of the HMS Pandora cumulated all the granted characteristics told about Bligh. By the way, among his remarkable voyage of 3,618 nautical miles (6,701 km) to Timor in Bounty's 23ft launch in company with his loyal men he survived two another mutinies. Two of his fellows on this voyage did the same trip again in an open boat in 1791 after HMS Pandora wrecked in Torres Street. Thus sailed with captain Edwards to catch the mutineers. To the restart of my build of the Bounty; Over the years the kit is gone and my first try get dusty in the bookshelf. I going to preserve her from an inglorious fate and wanna build her back to the bulkheads first and will start a second scratch build project. Meanwhile I have scaled up the drawings from McKays book to my preferred 1:64 scale. She was my first wooden shipbuild and after the scratch building experience with my Sherbourne and my Schooner for Port Jackson I am less happy with the obvious mistakes I did, especially on the curves at the bow and the stern, as well as with the (minor) incorrectness of the kit. As told, the breadth appears 1 foot 8 inch to large (8 mm in 1:64 scale), too, the bulwark astern is approx 10 inch (4 mm in 1:64 scale) to high. Attached you find some pictures about the current status of the Bounty. It is interesting to compare the 50ft Schooner for Port Jackson with the size of the 89ft Bounty. Both are made of the same scale. Cheers, Daniel
  11. Hi All, Returning to model ships, I decided to start with a small one. "Following the mutiny on the Bounty, Captain Bligh, along with 18 loyal members of the crew were cast adrift in the launch, and made a remarkable voyage to the island of Timor, after spending 41 days in the worst possible conditions." I started with the keel but forgot to take pictures. Here's one where I'm placing the floor (sorry for the mess in the background, my workplace is tight ) I use small wood separators to keep all planks even while they set Next step is to glue the thwarts in place and start planking Cheers, Federico.
  12. Hello! I am new in this forum and this is my first wooden boat model i am building. I am just finish the first planking and in to the number 2 planking using mahogany strips. I find this part of the building not so easy do to the shape of the hull and the sokening of strips and the shaping of the strips. But i will make som paperstrips to use as templates to see how the the trips are going to be trimed to fit the shape of the hull. I will post som more pictures later on. Regards B. Brekke
  13. I have settled on the Bounty as a back-to-ship-building after starting several other kits from my retirement stash. They were to get my fingers back into practice and to see if they could still do the work. Ok, so far!! First off, I like the large scale. I can still see what I am doing. I made the decision to not do the cut-a-way. I feel the kit sorely lacks accuracy in this area. It would take an admiralty model to do interiors satisfactorily, in my thinking. The correctly number and spaced frames for starters. I did some planking on the lowest forward deck (practice and caulking). I make the mast steps with packing spacing the double-ers (spell check does not like that one at all) so that the hole is a square, equal to the mast diameter. The mast, once made, can rotate when mounted. Making a tendon step is just to far in the future for me to plan. This brings up the first challenge, put three decks and a step together ( 4 holes in a straight line) so that the mast ends up in the correct position. All was good until the main deck was added. Generally, my paper plans cross-sections are long compared to the ply wood parts. Almost, 1/8", 3-4mm longer. Dry fitting the main deck with the notches hooked on the last frame, the first frame notches show the gap. Red arrows in picture. The mizzen and main mast aligned OK, but the fore-mast, not even close. Move the deck hole and cover with deck planks. I mounted the middle deck to help align the frames. This was a easy keel/frame assembly to bend. The main deck came out slightly off center to the frames. Fill strips on one side and sand the other. I will made some better set up jigs for the next one. For some reason I could not see the bow curves, so I filled in the bow frames (mostly(. I slotted two scrap pile pieces of wood to fit the false keel for a building stand. No patent, free idea for the general public. My son works with the Free Software Foundation, so I freely offer most of my tips.😊 I will get the next installment, now about three down on "The List" eventually! I will update next Friday, when I learn when they are doing my other knee. Twenty steps up to the shipyard. Could be a problem, Houston.
  14. Hi all First build log but second build having just finished building the HMS Revenge by Ocre. Was a fairly basic model but I feel I learnt quite a lot doing it. Have purchased the AL Bounty kit after seeing a few of the build logs on here and quite liked the idea of the open side and the amount of detail you could put in it. It was a toss up between the Bounty and Caldercraft's Mary Rose but, in the end, the Bounty won. I'm going to be making quite a few additions to the interior as had been done in other logs as I feel it adds more to the model. I'm also going to have a go at adding some internal lighting to the ship as what's the point of the interior detail if you can't see it? I'm also planning on putting a bit of paint on the exterior to brighten it up a bit (just a little blue and yellow) After opening the box, spending a few hours reading the instructions and typing the part list up onto a spreadsheet to make identification and searching easier, I noticed that there's a number of pieces missing: 8mm brass rings, 0.6x6 basswood, 1x8 basswood and cloth for the bales plus there not being enough 0.6 x 3 basswod, 1 x 10 basswood, 1 x basswood, 3 x 5 basswod and ø6 dowells. As I was ordering more material to make additional cabins and features, I just re-ordered what was missing. I purchased the Billings boats slip to use for the bounty but have found it's no good for this model as the frames go right down to the bottom of the false keel. I've made my own version using a shelf, some angle brackets and some blocks of wood. Hopefully it gets the frames in a perfect position. One thing I could do with advice on is what is single planking and double planking? The bounty model is single planked but the Revenge model I made had 1 layer of basswood/lime planks and then you covered it with 0.6mm strips over the top. I really liked the finish this gave the model in the end and would like to do the same thing for the bounty (plus it hides the pin heads). Is this what is referred to as double planking and would anyone advise against it on the AL Bounty? Edit - have learnt this is called a veneer. No idea if it's the "done thing thing" or not, but I'm going to do it anyway. The Revenge took me a month and half to complete but I'm planning on spending a lot more time (I know it's going to take months/year(s)) on the Bounty to get it "perfect". I've made a start cutting the pieces out of the kit and have started the sanding/staining/varnish process as I like the walnut finish on the frames and false keel. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. Will keep you all updated and thanks for reading!
  15. Here we go..... I started one year ago. It is just my third kit, after Tramontana from AL and SJ Nepomuceno also from AL. I'll share all my pictures, where some of my "tricks". I'll be more than glad to answer your questions as well your advices. Regards
  16. This is my second build, first was the GJOA by Constructo. Happy enough with that one apart from the sails and rigging work. Sails seemed a bit bulky material wise, and the rigging i was sort of clueless on,the writer of the instruction book seemed to give up long before reaching the rigging stage, so i winged it. Hadnt discovered this forum until recently, so hoping to do much better with the HMS Bounty by following some of the advice posted on here. Though whether i do the rigging and sails on this one is yet to be decided. I mostly lurk here reading other peoples logs for ideas and tips on how to do certain things. Wasnt sure whether to create one myself as my camera isnt the best, but ill give it a shot and hopefully keep it going. I need to get better lighting sorted which will hopefully make the photos a bit clearer. I started about a week ago. Very impressive box on opening it, well packaged. The drawings (Multiple!), written instructions and picture instructions all look very impressive, though from reading on here it seems these become less impressive further in. First task was to label all the precut sheets of wood for easier reference from the paper cut sheet, mark the frame numbers and then cut them out. Next was to sand the laser char off. Started by hand as i was afraid of taking too much off, but ended up using a dremel (cheap brand version) jammed in my vice with a sanding attachment on it to do the heavy work, finishing off with a narrow hand file. Not too sure how much you need to sand off, i dont get them spotlessly clean but the glue seems to hold anyway. Do kit manufacturers leave extra wood on the parts to account for sanding off the laser char? All sanded and dry fitted. The slip is the Hobbyzone small building slip,purchased for this build. Would have preffered the bigger one as you can rotate it, but didnt have the desk space. Though the small one can apparently turn 180 degrees either way, but i dont see how. The arms rotate, but they sit flush on the bottom, so one side can rotate up, but the other cant go down? The instructions werent the best for it, only several parts to it, but i still managed to glue several parts in the wrong place before i realised. 😄 Next task was to stain all the parts. I used Littlefairs Dark Walnut wood stain (Is it alright to mention brand names here?).One coat was enough, any more felt a bit too dark compared to the supplied walnut wood. Couldnt decide whether to stain the parts that get glue later or tape them off. Going by google apparently wood glue wont stick to stained wood, but ive seen alot on here glue onto the stain. Did a quick test and the glue seems to hold, so i coated everything. Perhaps not as strong as before, but enough for model purposes hopefully. I intend to follow Thomaslambo's way of doweling, and dowel some of the cross beams into the frames which should strengthen it all quite a bit anyway. I didnt stain the outside edges to give the planking a better grip, though i forgot some of them will be exposed in the open hull, though i intend to follow other builds again and veneer the exposed ply edges with 0.5mm walnut, think it will look a bit better than exposed ply layers. Ive fitted half of the frames now. They arent perfect,hoping once the decks etc are on it will square them a bit further.I messed about with the first 2 alot, the fore and aft, trying to get them as square as i could so that i could measure off of them,the ones after that were installed using a combination of 2 levels, a square, and some balsa jammers cut to size. Turns out my desk or floor has a run, so i had to glue packers to the bottom side of my building slip to get it level first of all. Then i could keep one level on the first frame which was set the day previously, making sure it stays level and then set the other frames with another level. The instructions state that the slots on the keel for the frames are at regular spacings. Maybe im interpreting that wrongly, but to me that means they should all be the same? They arent anyway, so i have several balsa jammers cut at 32,35 and 36mm so that i can clamp onto the previous frame when gluing up. Am also using the middle deck to align the frames, along with the jammers. First half of the frames are fitted, almost have the lower crossbeams fitted to them all, and thats the stage im at so far. I also moved desk in between those photos, as i outgrew my small one. So the computer is now on the small desk and my modelling stuff has taken over the large desk ! Looking towards the next parts. Id like to scratch build some of the interior cabins,fittings etc as several other build logs have done. I dont really need a wood lathe, but considering getting one to make some columns and bannisters etc for the stairs. We'll see 😉
  17. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  18. How many hours did your build take? And how experienced were you when starting said build? Hey guys, I am an absolute amatuer (don't even own tools) and have ordered the Billing Bounty as my first build in 20 years (since I was a kid). WHY you ask?.. Because it was on sale & my gf wants a nice authentic looking ship to go in her living room, and it's all about the aesthetics of the display piece for her. Not the love of seafaring or anything like that. So higher quality models it is! But a pre-built ship of this caliber would cost around AUD$1000 (way over her budget of $300), and the cheaper model kits seem to look not as refined/detailed or large. I'm very interested in how long it took all you guys, as my gf doesn't want to be waiting around for it too long. As daunting as this build looks, I do have a lot of free time over the next month or two & my housemates will no doubt develop envy (hopefully this build allows for some teamwork?). Plus there are heaps of awesome build logs I've discovered in here to help me out too (especially Steve). It won't be shipped out to me for another week, so I am still able to cancel the order if anybody has a better suggestion?
  19. So my 'filler' model will by Caldercraft's Bounty. Whilst I redo the plans for my Bounty I wanted a less mentally challenging kit to keep my modelling going. I expect to replace largish sections so will use different outer planks, deck planks and I may also replace the hatches/ladders/guns with my own. I also am unlikely to use the kit thread preferring to use third party choices though this time I might purchase a Rope maker myself and see what I can do on my own. Anyway obligatory box shot.... All contents And bulkheads for the first section well marked with their frame number in ink Hopefully this will be better updated than most of my stuff but you never know...
  20. Hello, just started my Bounty build and at the framing stage. My concern is to glue the frames at the beginning and than not able to align the deck. Any suggestions? Should I wait until I put the deck in and than secure the frames with glue? Thank you for your help!
  21. I am nervous to start this model and this build log. First, I am worried that I may have stepped over my "skill line" in choosing this kit as my next build. This is my third build but will be my first fully rigged ship. Planking and rigging should be the big challenge. I hope to get some help along the way. Second, the kit. Before I purchased the kit, I researched and did not find a lot of info on this model. I could not find a build log for this particular kit version of the Bounty. I did find a discussion about the relative merits of the manufacturer and did not find it full of glowing comments. But, since I have build one AL kit before (the Sansun), I decided to go ahead. What grabbed me about this kit is the opportunity to build an interior. I have toured a few 1:1 sailing ships such as the Victory and what I find truly interesting is touring the interior decks of the ship. This is where I feel you can really begin to appreciate the life of a sailor in the 17 and 18 hundreds. I hope my model will convey some of that feeling to whoever gets to view the completed model. So here it goes......my build log of the HMS Bounty (inside and out).
  22. A neighbour asked me if I wanted his sons old models as he was clearing his shed out. They just need tidying up.Theirs 4 in total,the three Iv got are the Scotish Maid, the Bounty and one I cant place yet. the fouth is big and has a box of magazines and stuff.
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