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Found 7 results

  1. After taking my Bluenose as far as I wanted I decided it was time to learn proper hull planking. I ordered the kit ( https://thenrgstore.org/products/half-hull-planking-project) from NRG some time ago and will spend the next week or so gathering what I need for this build. I will also be reviewing the various build logs of other other shipwrights to gain further insights. Since I now have some experience I've decided to upgrade my material to Boxwood rather than using the Basswood that comes with the kit. Hopefully I would ruin too much of it. 😆 Any advice or suggestions from those who have built this kit is always appreciated! Dave
  2. While I wait on some replacement items to finish my San Juan Felucca build, I decided to crack open the half-hull planking kit and get started with this build log. A piece of quarter inch foam board from my wife's craft room and some spray adhesive and the build board was ready after setting overnight. The spine pieces took some care to get released from the sheet as the cut did not go completely through the wood. I tried both scrapping and sanding to remove the laser char from the surfaces to be glued. I found that using an old blade to scrape the chare worked best on the curves and kept the edges straighter than sanding, but sanding worked well on the flat edges.
  3. This is my next project after completing the first three kits in the Model Shipways model shipwright series. Each of those kits provided good experience and instructions on planking, I clearly need more practice though , and hope to learn how to lay out the planking on the bulkheads and how to shape the planks. Those skills were not needed in the shipwright series since the planks were all cut to the correct shape. This kit looks like a great way to learn more. There are many other build logs on MSW that I am sure I will be referring to for help as I go along. I managed to hunt down the spray adhesive and foam core board to make the building board and have started removing the char form the parts and seeing how it all goes together. I have some scraps of basswood left over from other kits and I think I am gong to make copies of some of the pieces to practice cutting the rabbet a few times to reduce the chance of messing it up too badly . Dan
  4. This kit was developed by the Nautical Research Guild to teach or improve members' hull-planking skills. As a moderately skilled builder, I decided it would be a good project to force myself to learn best practices and possibly correct poor practices I may have developed. Plus, it seems simpler and more relaxing than my last few builds! Here's the NRG's vision of the final project: There are many build logs for this already, but I intend to add my own twist by doing the planking using wood I've harvested and milled myself from my rural property, where I do a lot of timber management. This is the direction I'd like to take my modeling overall, so this will be a good early test of the goal. I have well-cured cherry, walnut, and maple billets on hand and think a mix of those could look really nice on this hull. Right now my idea is to use cherry below the wale, walnut for the wale, and maple above it. We'll see what happens. Hopefully this is of interest to a few people, but regardless of attendance, I've learned that keeping a build log is a good way to keep myself engaged and organized.
  5. This will be my first attempt at planking “correctly”. I did complete AL Bounty Jolly which was planked, but in a strange way (I followed the instructions). I have quite a few projects in the shipyard that are POB and POF so I’d rather start with a less expensive kit and fail then ruin the kits I have already purchased in hopes of learning this hobby. I will be taking this build slow as I have other logs going on, as well as a stressful job and a four year old that I chase around on the weekends. My plan will be to finish this half hull with a stained hull...I’m also contemplating coppering the hull as a learning experience as well.
  6. Merchant ship Mayflower by Antony - Scale , 1600 as first built in Harwich UK. This is the Start of a Mayflower build. The main points are: - It has to be a Longitudinal section (from Bow to Stern) Must be large enough to give scale and details of the conditions aboard the Mayflower in the 1620’s. And be completed before the 400 Mayflower celebrations (16th September 2020). I have the plans from https://www.plimoth.com/products/mayflower-ii-model-ship-plans Thanks to Jaager here on MSW. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/18809-mayflower-2-plans/ I also have the book :- The Mayflower and other colonial vessels. by William A Baker. And a Thanks to Druxey for pointing out a link. https://www.thenrg.org/resources/The_Journal/58-4%20Nautical%20Research%20Journal.pdf I will Not be building the ship from the plans I have But will maintain the basic shape from the plans. I will be putting in 3 decks. I think this is only way they would of built her in the early 16 century. Also I will be planking the inside of the Hull as it gives the model much more strength. Probably was not done on the original 1600 ship. There will be No rigging or mast on this model. Drawing are done in Adobe Illustrator CS2 which is my preferred drawing software. The Keel is of mixed timbers . 12 inch ruler and veneer is for scale comparison. Detail of Stern area. Not yet finished. Detail of Bow area. Not yet finished. Ribs cut out. Not yet fitted. Jig For holding Keel and Ribs. Yes its another monster size of model. But it will be fit for purpose.
  7. BACKGROUND I became interested in scanning half-hull models as an aside from my research on a particular ship, SS Meteor (1864). I have a long-standing interest in the fast screw cruisers of the 1860s, including the Delano/Isherwood and Lenthall/Isherwood designs, and the privately-designed competitors: the USS Idaho by Steers/Dickerson, and Dennison Lawlor's SS Meteor. My interest also extends to British and French commerce-raiding and pursuit cruisers of that era: HMS Inconstant and related classes, and the four French-built Confederate raiders that became BAP América, BAP Unión, SMS Augusta, and SMS Victoria. I recently obtained a scan of the HMS Inconstant plan from The National Maritime Museum. The screw clipper Meteor (1864) was a smaller version of USS Idaho, but she had Scotish engines that delivered her promised speed. She was built by a Boston consortium to pursue Confederate commerce raiders, but was delivered too late for that purpose. The ship's trials showed her to be the fastest screw steamer in America, until the Navy tested its Isherwood-engined cruisers two years later. Despite attempts to use her in a commercial venture, the ship was really only suitable as a commerce raider, or for pursuing them. RESULTS OF TESTING THE TWO GENERATIONS OF SENSE HAND-HELD SCANNERS I have recently been successful in scanning a private half-hull of the USS Wampanoag, and the model of SS Meteor at the Portsmouth (NH) Athenaeum. In late September I will scan the larger Meteor model at the Smithsonian Institution. From these scans I will prepare traditional body, half-breadth, and sheer plans using SolidWorks. Below are my recommendations for anyone seeking to use a Sense scanner to scan half-hull models. TECH MEMO: To Recap: For best results in scanning half-hulls, I have settled upon the generation 1 Sense3D scanner, paired with a Surface Pro 2 tablet (with the faster i5-4300U processor, and 4 to 8 GB RAM) running Windows 8.1. Both these devices can now only be obtained used or refurbished, and often the Pro 2 requires an operating system reset to Win8.1 from Win10. However, the gen1 scanner has 3x3x3 meter capability and full user control of settings, vs. 2x2x2 meters and a too-friendly (impaired) interface with the generation 2 Sense2 scanner (retail: $360-400). Out of the box, you can distinguish the two generations of scanner thus: The second generation "Sense2" has and "Intel inside" logo on the base label; the original (prefered) "Sense3D" does not. The good news is that Cubify has become part of 3DSystems, and the formerly non-existent support for the Sense scanner has been replaced by exemplary 24-hour support. Software for both generations of Sense scanners (as well as the Apple variant) is found at: Www.3dsystems.com/shop/support/sense/videos [Apple users -- note that at $80 the retail price for the scanner for your OS is roughly 20 percent the cost of the Windows scanner. Go figure...] The older (gen1) scanner can be found for $200-350 on ebay -- usually in new condition, due to an initial frustration effect. The Surface Pro 2 with 4300U quad processor has a nominal speed of 1.9 GHz, but ranges up to 2.6 or 2.9 GHz. That is plenty to drive the scanner, which the box says requires 2 GHz and 4 GB. I CANNOT RECOMMEND the 4200U SP2 (1.6 GHz and up), so shop carefully. Expect to pay $300-350 for a 4300U SP2 on ebay (you may get a stylus included), or just go to Newegg and spend $330: https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-34-735-142 In either case, you will need a $35-50 Surface Pro 2 stylus, because the sensor software is MUCH easier to use with one. A mount to join the SP2 and scanner can be 3D-printed from the design at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:237449 OR you can contact me for my redesign of that mount (as a print file, or an actual mount).
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